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    Columns

    HBA: Pomp and Product Development

    The iconic industry show kicked off on an upbeat note to celebrate its 20th anniversary.

    08.01.12

    A view of HBA Global’s 2012 show floor
    HBA: Pomp and Product Development


    The iconic industry show kicked off on an upbeat note to celebrate its 20th anniversary.

    Written by Jamie Matusow, Editor

    There’s nothing like the inspiration and enthusiasm generated by four leading beauty executives’ success stories to kick off the industry’s largest trade show on a positive note. And that’s just what the keynote panel at this year’s edition—the 20th anniversary—of HBA Global Expo provided when the three-day event opened its doors on June 19 at Jacob Javits Convention Center in Manhattan.


    HBA keynote panel (L-R): Sonia Kashuk, Deanna Kangas, Jim Markham, Catherine Walsh, Jane Larkworthy
    Jane Larkworthy, beauty director, W magazine, led the lively discussion on the future of beauty, with participants also looking at their individual past successes.

    Catherine Walsh, senior vice president, Coty Prestige, spoke about the fragrance market, which she knows so well. Walsh is often credited for creating the whole celebrity brand fragrance frenzy with her initial project with Jennifer Lopez a decade ago. Ten years later, Coty has just launched Lopez’s latest fragrance, Glowing, which features a bottle that lights up (stay tuned to the September issue of Beauty Packaging for details on this unique package). Obviously an out-of-the-box thinker, herself, Walsh spoke about the trends to grow top lines, as well as introduce new brands, and commented, “I’m personally amazed with the amount of innovation across all categories.” Walsh also spoke about the great success of returning to flankers in prestige fragrance and how changing the bottle and the fragrance makes the launch look like a new brand, bringing in new customers. She cited the Marc Jacobs Daisy franchise as a great example.

    Deanna Kangas, CEO, Stila Cosmetics, spoke about consumers’ surging interest in cosmetics, and the quest for products that produce a “flawless face,” such as tinted moisturizers with beneficial ingredients; thus the rise in popularity of multitasking beauty balms. She also noted that indie brands “have to join together, and partner, to reach out to consumers.”

    Sonia Kashuk, makeup artist and entrepreneur—and force behind Target’s mega beauty department—commented that there’s been a “huge change in beauty trends in the mass market, with value and quality emerging as the leading game changer.” She said there’s no longer a huge difference between mass and prestige and how they satisfy customers’ needs.

    Jim Markham, founder and CEO, ColorProof Evolved Color Care, developed a number of successful hair care brands during his career. His guideline for a winner: “It requires better product, performance and the offer of something special.” With these elements, “customers will pay the price,” he said, adding, “You have to have a better mousetrap and prove superiority.”

    All agreed that brands must keep things exciting, perceived value is the driver to industry sales, and social media has become a major component in getting the word out there.


    Linda Fairstein received HBA’s “Positively Beautiful” Award.
    Following the keynote panel, best-selling crime novelist, lawyer, former prosecutor and philanthropist Linda Fairstein was presented with the 4th Annual HBA “Positively Beautiful” Award for her active support of Safe Horizon and its mission. Safe Horizon provides support, prevents violence, and promotes justice for victims of crime and abuse, their families, and communities. The award was established by HBA Global to annually recognize a celebrity who uses his or her name and talents to further a cause that champions inner beauty and self-esteem building.

    Onsite Education

    The three-day event also featured more than 60 educational sessions on marketing, packaging, ingredients and more, with industry experts covering themes including brand management, distribution, global markets, green and natural products, product development, skin care and technical approaches. For synopses on a variety of these sessions, please see coverage elsewhere in this article and online at www.beautypackaging.com.

    On the Show Floor

    The leading product development event for the cosmetics, fragrance, personal care, skin care and wellness industries drew more than 16,615 attendees (a 4% increase over the previous year) looking to source ingredients and raw materials, packaging and components, contract manufacturers, services and finished goods.

    Jill Birkett, brand director, UBM, HBA Global, told Beauty Packaging that there were more than 400 exhibitors present this year, and that attendees were “a mix of entrepreneurs and big brands, with key executives circulating on the show floor.” One trend she noted: “Exhibitors are seeing a rise in visitors who are project consultant managers.”

    She said features such as the country pavilions—and the new SPLASH Pavilion for finished products—were popular destinations. “It’s always interesting and surprising to me how many people are interested in finished products and distribution ideas,” she commented.

    Beauty Packaging spent an insightful three days speaking with suppliers, attending sessions and visiting special exhibits. Following are some of our observations as well as a look at trends as gleaned from exhibitors’ experiences.

    At Unimac Packaging Group, Jimmy Nicholas, senior vice president of sales, told us about the company’s impressive line of machinery, including an 8C press that can put down foil. One of Unimac’s latest creations is a secondary carton with a scratch and sniff feature which allows consumers to smell the product without opening the box. “The fragrance lasts for more than a year,” said Nicholas.

    3C Inc., was one of HBA’s original exhibitors 20 years ago. Lou Della Pesca, owner and president, celebrated the occasion with a new twist on color in his booth space at HBA. He said unlike traditional black and white packaging, brands are more often choosing color to highlight their products. In telling 3C Inc.’s color story, Della Pesca took four containers and color-coordinated them in four colors (violet, green, red and blue) to make them look like one family. “Any item we sell can be color-coordinated, regardless of material,” said Della Pesca. “This shows what you can do with color and packaging today.”

    New nail polish bottles took center stage at Arrowpak, which was celebrating its 20th anniversary as an exhibitor at HBA in its newly created sizable booth. Jim Slowey, VP sales, Arrowpak/Baralan, said classic shapes and extra glass at the bottom were both popular trends. Also on display was a line of plastic items direct from the company’s new manufacturing facility in China. He said that sets and kits were also proving to be popular items among brands.

    Fusion Packaging also unveiled a newly constructed booth at HBA. A new logo highlighted the dramatic display, which was created to show how far the company has come in eight years. One new launch from Fusion at this year’s show was Lift, a cost-effective airless package that can be decorated in a variety of ways.


    Anisa International’s contoured brush heads provided a new angle on cosmetic application.
    Applicator specialist Anisa International has been showcasing its products at HBA since 1996. Anisa Telwar, founder & CEO, told Beauty Packaging that in getting through tough economic times, consumers enjoy a little luxury with items such as makeup brushes. The impressive booth array proved the point, with an infusion of multicolor brush heads in the Spiral Fusion collection and swirled acrylic handles. Contoured brush heads, silicone brushes and synthetic brush heads offered lots to covet.

    Another long-time HBA exhibitor, Verla Cosmetics, specializes in full service with a pick and pack warehouse, according to April Vignone, chief marketing officer, who noted: “We’re always pushing the envelope for new concepts, as well as performance-driven products.”Verla offers a complete range of services from stock—or new, from beginning to end. “We do as much or as little as the customer wants,” said Vignone, who waved her hand, showcasing the silver, two-coat full-coverage glitter nail polish the company was introducing at HBA.

    Yonwoo/PKG offered a clear view of cutting-edge trends in the future of skin care, already gaining in popularity in Asia. In addition to a large variety of stock components, the company is moving into electronics. Daniel Cha, export sales manager, explained how the high functionality offered through electronics increases efficiency of the product by enabling it to penetrate deeper. An electronic mister for skin moisturizing features a rechargeable battery, and Cha said it can be used without disturbing makeup. An ion-exchange device features an enhanced applicator with cartridges containing different products that can be slipped in and out. It can even be recharged using the USB port on your computer.

    Eco–friendly packaging was one of the featured product offerings at Alpha Packaging, where marketing manager Marny Bielefeldt showed us the company’s popular 100% PET range. “We can color the bottle or brands can fill it with colored liquid,” she said. Alpha also offers environmentally friendly spray frosting with UV inks as opposed to conventional inks. Alpha’s bottles are manufactured in the U.S.

    ABA, a stock distributor of glass and plastic bottles, and with a wide range of decorating capabilities, is now the exclusive U.S. distributor of Promens’ bag-in-bottle package, an airless bottle without the piston. ABA is also the exclusive distributor of OEKAbeauty in the U.S., so lots of innovative new lipgloss and mascara applicators were on view.

    The story at Badger Color highlighted liquid PET. Mike Fatta said the company is venturing into liquid color, with a patent pending for the carrier. The process is better for translucent colors and for large runs. Badger is opening a plant in North Carolina, and all of its manufacturing is done in the U.S.

    Yuan Harng, a division of Royaltech, a Japanese company, featured a wide range of products, including packaging for use with products from skin care to fragrance. Yuan Harng now offers formulation as well as packaging, operates an FDA-registered factory and offers full-service capabilities.

    Water was the theme at Swan Cosmetics, which was introducing a new trend line in which all cosmetics formulas are based on water to hydrate skin. Ingredients include cucumber oil, mango butter and cocoa butter. Eco-friendly wooden pencils featured sleeves made of cornstarch. Rather than printing directly on the pencil, the wrapper can be printed in up to three colors, or decorated with foil hot stamping or silk screening. In addition, the pencil can be sharpened without removing the shrink sleeve.

    Glopak USA Corp., a glass, plastic and pump manufacturer based in China—but with offices in the U.S.—offers everything from stock items to custom molds. Shu Wang told Beauty Packaging that the two locations enable them to “better understand U.S. customers and take care of their needs.”

    PAK 2000, which was exhibiting at HBA for the first time, featured a variety of packaging, with choices from custom-made rigid cartons to paper bags (their forte).

    Olcott Plastics lined its booth with an extensive array of jars and closures, available in both double- and single-wall configurations. Full decoration is also available. Popular items at HBA ranged from an economical 2-oz. single-wall jar for creams to a 12-oz. double-wall jar with a dome closure. Joe Brodner said that Olcott is the largest U.S. manufacturer of plastic jars and closures. The East coast-based company recently opened a West coast office in L.A.

    At Unicep Packaging, Karla Horton demonstrated a new single-use package design with a swab applicator: just snap the package and remove the swab. SwabDose is especially good for cuticle products, acne treatments, eye creams or other topical skin care applications.

    Diamond Wipes International offers single- and multiple-use wipes. Marketing manager Moto Okawa explained that the company, which specializes in contract manufacturing of wet wipes—and also filling, continues to introduce green initiatives. Diamond Wipes has “gone solar” with its manufacturing facilities, and is about to receive FSC certification for its non-woven wipes.

    For additional HBA Global photos, videos and reviews of educational sessions, please go to www.beautypackaging.com

    Making a SPLASH at HBA

    This year, HBA introduced a new finished products pavilion—called SPLASH—that showcased 30 international emerging brands and product lines in an exhibit space lined with glass showcases for a look that resembled a premium department store setting. Products were juried by a panel of brick-and-mortar and online retailers, brand strategists and beauty bloggers.


    Spadaro Luxury Fragrances told a beautiful packaging story.
    Here’s a brief look at a couple of packaging standouts:

    Dalan d’Olive, a personal care brand based in Turkey, even produces the olives for the formulas it uses in its products, which range from hair care to body cream. The brand is just launching in the U.S., though it’s currently on shelves in Turkey, Europe and Asia.

    Packaging for Germain de Capuccini caught Beauty Packaging’s eye with its graphic black-and-white packaging featuring a chambered nautilus design.

    In contrast, the bright colorful hues of the LOLA Barcelona cosmetics line, including cylindrical nail bottles with white caps and white cartons boldly displaying the brand name drew attendees. With one letter of the four-letter name printed on each surface of the box, retailers can create an interesting story on shelves. The line ranges from color palettes to silver skull necklaces that flip open to reveal product.

    The Naked Princess Line, which won an International Package Design Award (IPDA; see rundown on page 78 of this issue) in the Personal Care Prestige category, featured packaging with the look of intimate lingerie. A lacy pattern is etched on bottles, and a silver cord wraps the neck of some products, with a multi-colored feather dangling from the end.

    Spadaro Luxury Fragrances told a beautiful and sophisticated packaging story with its exotic, rich red cartons (supplied by Allstate Paper Box Company) and sleek, clear, decanter-like bottles, which Kim Spadaro, founder and creative director, explained were influenced by destinations such as Sicily, Morocco and Spain. Fragrances are all made in “a nostalgic way—purely an essential oil blend.” Spadaro said: “I wanted to have a feel of classic and quality packaging that feels somewhat organic.I didn't want to use cellophane because I felt it would convey too commercial and mass.I wanted the box to be about passion and love, thus the reason for using red.Red is classic, warm and the color of passion.”































    CIBS Hosts Innovation Session at HBA
    Three guidelines help young hot brands stay fresh.

    Written by Lisa Samalonis, Associate Editor


    During the lively CIBS Innovation Committee’s session at HBA Global Expo, designer Ryan Lynch, of Beardwood & Co., discussed how young popular brands can continue to innovate after they have been on the market for several years and some of their newness fades. Lynch noted brands must keep in mind three overarching themes and also must know their customer and never lose sight of their needs and wants. “Spend time with your customer. The design must be instinctive, involving, and identifying,” he explained. “Customers must instinctively reach for the brand, be involved enough to come back for a repeat purchase and identify with the product enough to tell and share the brand’s story.”

    Lynch gave examples within the beauty industry and some from outside the HBA realm. For example, he noted that Kiehl’s has remained in sync with its customers, and uses consultative services and samples to keep its fan base coming back for more. He also pointed out that the Help Remedies line of medicine speaks effectively to the customer, while the packaging is simple and interactive, such as with The Help I Cut Myself product, which has a campaign to raise participation for a bone marrow registry. Lynch noted that the marketing and strategy behind the high fashion, affordably priced Warby Parker brand of eyeglasses is truly innovative and enticing to customers who can visit a showroom, shop the internet and/or participate in the home try-on program. In addition, the brand has a strong social media presence and a buy one-give one program in which a person in need receives a free pair for every one sold—similar to Tom’s Shoes. Overall, the design and marketing campaigns should be engaging and multi-platform while being authentic. “Be real, be human,” he said. “It’s about them, not you.”



























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