07.31.09
Spirits Lift at Luxe Pack New York
A record crowd and a sold-out show floor lend an increasing sense of optimism to the luxury packaging market.
By Jamie Matusow, Editor
Speculation was high leading up to the seventh edition of Luxe Pack New York: What impact would a slowed economy and the threat of swine flu have on the luxury packaging show when it rolled out its traditional red carpet on May 20-21? Apparently, the optimists got it right, and the steady interest in packaging options took precedence. More than 2,100 visitors—up 5% from last year—made their way to the 40,000 square-foot Altman Building and Metropolitan Pavilion on W. 18th Street, for a show that delivered a sold-out floor, with 109 exhibitors and a number of high-level educational sessions.
Whatever negative reports plagued the beauty world earlier in the year, talk at this top industry event was that while conditions might not return rapidly, if ever, to previous levels, improvement was definitely in the air. Almost all suppliers I spoke with were introducing new products or techniques. Many had developed innovative approaches to packaging, using either evolving technology or cost-effective methods to lure brands.
Alcan Packaging Beauty’s director, communications, Dalila Safir, and creation director, Michel Limongi. |
Mike Warford, vice president sales and marketing, Colt’s Plastics, shared the sentiments of many exhibitors, commenting, “The quality of the people are good; they’re seriously looking.” Colt’s displayed its extensive line of complete jar packages made from stock molds—an option Warford said has seen tremendous growth due to its speed-to-market appeal. “In some cases,” explained Warford, “brands want availability in a couple of days.”
Rebecca Holland, marketing coordinator, Kaufman Container, said she likes the setup of the boutique-like show because, “the emphasis is on the products.”
Each exhibitor at the show receives a similar, no-frills space in which to display products. Lounges are scattered throughout the show floor, making it conducive for sharing ideas and doing business in a comfortable setting where a complimentary breakfast and lunch are served to unite exhibitors and attendees.
Holland pointed out some of her firm’s new in-house decorating techniques, such as the capabilities to screen-print on glass, plastic, aluminum and metal. Kaufman also offers heat-shrink and pressure-sensitive labeling and hot stamping. According to Holland, the company specializes in turnkey projects, especially for hair care, in which they provide all components.
Key Packaging Trends
Both Colt’s Plastics’ and Kaufman’s capabilities typify two packaging trends personally noted at the annual exposition by Nathalie Grosdidier, executive director, Luxe Pack New York. Grosdidier told me that many exhibitors were highlighting new decoration technology this year for glass, plastic, metal—all materials. In addition, she said, most companies are offering standard lines—with many launching on-site. Stock components that can be customized using decorative techniques satisfy brands’ needs to launch new products quickly, in a cost-effective manner.
“The demand from the market is there,” said Grosdidier, “and they’re [suppliers] ready to offer new lines.”
Grosdidier also commented on how the emphasis on sustainability has evolved. “Sustainability is no longer a trend,” she said. “The suppliers must have answers.”
All of these trends were displayed prominently throughout the show floor.
| Benny Calderone Jr., sales director, PKG Group describes the company’s new line of tottles. |
Eco in the Box
Bedford Industries showcased several lines of hang tangs, including its latest—a biodegradable ElastiTag, which achieves total biodegradation of elastomer in a landfill environment within a year. In addition, 50% of the finished elastic material is post-industrial waste.
Bellwyck Packaging Solutions displayed several new lines, many with an eco-friendly twist. Pamela D’Alessandro, vice president sales and marketing, U.S., pointed out several options in plastics, including biodegradable lamination. Also featured: the company’s Clearview lamination, with a high-finish windowing effect and intricate shapes; multicolor flocking onpaperboard or plastic for thermoforming; and Inviz edge, which gives carton flaps colored edges.
Jeff Ringgold of Neenah Paper, says his company has seen a lot of interest in sustainability and post-consumer options. Neenah offers several post-consumer packaging lines and is working on 100% post-consumer box paper.
Boxes took on a new dimension at think4D, Inc., a company making its worldwide debut from British Columbia, Canada. A proprietary process uses fine screening to add form and dimension to a flat surface, bringing texture and depth to printed images.
All Bottled Up
ABA Packaging showcased a 100ml “Stone” bottle from Saverglass France. The Stone is one of five new bottles ABA is offering in the Saverglass line of stock fragrance and cosmetic bottles, which feature crystal clear designs with heavy glass weights and stunning glass distribution. They are available in minimums as low as 3,000 pieces with no tooling costs, and available from stock in France for immediate delivery.
SGD displayed its breakthrough Infinite Glass—the first 100% recycled glass available for the perfumery/cosmetics industry. In order to highlight this eco-friendly glass, SGD introduced its standard stock range, La Collection, a new line of bottles and jars.
While Len Loeffler of New High Glass spoke about his company’s selection of stock glass, he also described its recent forays into the POP area, where they combine wood and acrylic with digital signage. On display was an acrylic tower held together with magnets—no tools required—which folds flat for shipping.
| Carli Windsor (R) of Alcan Beauty Packaging shows Jamie Matusow, editor, Beauty Packaging, and Marc Rosen, president Marc Rosen Associates, its customizable tagine cosmetic jar. |
Silicone Steps Up
Silicone applicators were big news at The Penthouse Group, where third-generation owner Steven Ostrower, told me, “Nothing like them has ever been introduced to the market. Competitively priced and with a ‘skin-like texture,’” they were just launched by a QVC brand.
Silicone was also a material of interest at MWV, where a small piece of silicone plastic has replaced seven pump pieces. New decorative enhancements to its Calmar Melodie pump and Clikit IP fragrance solutions, including iridescence, sparkle, soft-touch, metallized lacquering and custom printing of any pattern, can lend a high-end feel to any cosmetic product.
Marc Rosen Stroll
I’d already visited PKG Group earlier in the day, noting their many attractive stock lines, but the company was also on internationally acclaimed packaging designer Marc Rosen’s list as he escorted me on our annual tour of innovative products on the Luxe Pack show floor.
Benny Calderone Jr., sales director, PKG Group, known for its extensive line of airless packaging, showed me the company’s new line of tottles available through its Korean partner Yonwoo. Available in five styles, with ranges from 15- to 100ml and multiple orifice sizes, they’re ideal for skin care, and unique because of their EVOH barrier. The SHOW package is a specialized airless package that resembles a laboratory test tube apparatus, consisting of a refillable inner bottle, reusable outer bottle and airless pump mechanism. The line can be enhanced by an array of decorating options for unlimited package design possibilities. New additions to PKG’s PP line include an airless jar with a round base. Calderone commented, “Sustainability is coming in at all levels.”
At DecoTech, Rosen pointed out the elaborate decorating techniques the company is known for, including holography and the capability to decorate over all surfaces of a fragrance bottle, including the shoulders and edge, such as it achieved with the highly acclaimed bottle for Coach fragrances. By simply changing colors, a new launch took form. The company has adopted a zero-waste landfill philosophy; whatever is not recycled is turned into energy.
Compacts drew our attention at Qualipac where vice president, sales, Eric Vanin showed us how changing the color of the metal and the inserts and using heat transfers resulted in as many as 15 different looks while maintaining brand identity. Gunmetal and black pearl were two classy looks chosen by Guerlain.
Rosen was particularly impressed with Alcan Packaging Beauty’s beauty solutions, for which it provides formulations and packaging, then fills and ships. At Alcan’s booth, Rosen pointed out the company’s tagine-shaped jar, which includes a sponge in the cap. Normally available with a rounded base as stock, a straight-sided base with a sculpted top was custom-made for MAC.
Engaging Sessions
A number of high-level, well-attended sessions held on the show floor during the two days—including three organized by Alcan, Marc Rosen and Beauty Packaging—drew high marks.
Alcan Packaging Beauty’s innovation and development director Nicholas Thorne, and creation director Michel Limongi, shared the spotlight, speaking about the company’s innovative approach to cosmetic packaging as a means to survive the current economic trend. Thorne remarked that they have seen “a lot of postponement of regular products and that instead, brands have been developing new products. Innovation has never been so popular,” he said. In many cases, added Thorne, “the applicator is the star, and the pack goes around it.”
Limongi emphasized that products have to elicit a triple wow—on the shelf, when the consumer experiences it and when others react to the results. Limongi explained how his consumer workshops help in the process of creating wow products, particularly applicators.
| At Luxe Pack New York, members of Beauty Packaging’s board of advisors presented a panel on Creating Brand Loyalty. (L-R): John A. Delfausse, Estée Lauder corporate packaging; Karen Grant, VP NPD Beauty; Scott Widro, manufacturing and materials management, Chanel; Maureen Kelly, CEO Tarte Cosmetics. |
“The brand name used to be enough to define the brand,” said Rosen. “Now an iconic package is needed along with the brand name.” Panelists also agreed that perceived value is key.
Spilka spoke about how fragrance development has become a team effort. “The fragrance house now works closely with design, packaging and marketing toward a common goal—a fragrance that people really want,” he said.
“The shopper as we knew her before is over,” observed Longworth. She said 80% of women don’t want to shop for anything they don’t need. “Therefore,” she advised, “We have to think about need and amplify the brands’ DNA to cut through a cluttered marketplace.”
Saunders emphasized the role of never-changing elements of Chanel style, such as the octagonal shape, in-house font, black-and-white palette, touches of camellias and tweed and a classic white box. Still, he said, “It feels new and modern; not like a relic.”
“Put all values on the label, no matter how ugly,” suggested Pasley, referring to Kiehl’s simple labels crowded with copy. “Ingredients, directions . . . convey values in your packaging visually—let them get that in an instant.”
Creating Brand Loyalty
At a time when consumers’ tastes range from a passion for prestige to a commitment to green, what does it take for a brand to stay true to its goals—and keep customers coming back for more? That’s the question Beauty Packaging posed to its esteemed industry panel—all members of the magazine’s Board of Advisors (view participants on facing page). Barbara B. Poder-Stiso, senior director package development, Del Labs/Coty, Inc., was unable to join us that day, but you can read her views on the topic at www.beautypackaging.com/ articles/2009/06/creating-brand-loyalty.
Delfausse’s segment focused on going green from a packaging standpoint while staying true to brand goals and getting the customer involved, and coming back for more. He described many of Estée Lauder’s packaging projects in terms of sustainability and the growing need for reclaiming packaging for the recycling stream. (For more on his insight and accomplishments, please go to www.beautypackaging .com/articles/2009/05/sustainabilitypackaging-insight.)
Grant addressed the standing room only crowd, speaking about how the consumer perceives products that are green, organic and natural, and where the interest and usage lie. “The prestige market for natural cosmetics continues to grow,” said Grant—“one of the few areas where growth can be seen.” (For more on Grant’s analysis of NPD research, please go to www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2009/05/ sustainabilityconsumer-insight.)
The success of Tarte as a prestige natural brand lies in the fact that “we’ve really zeroed in on what’s important to us: innovative cosmetics, natural ingredients and sustainable/reusable luxurious packaging,” said Kelly. She said Tarte remains committed to these areas of interest for its consumers by staying on trend with current market research, environmental issues and reported clinical data. “It’s important for us to share our findings with our customers and to also ask them what they want in their cosmetics,” she said. (For more on Tarte’s philosophy and sustainability efforts, please go to www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2009/05/sustainabilitybrand-insight.)
While the first three BP panelists addressed the topic from a green standpoint, Widro spoke about how linking a global vision with a quality and operations/packaging mission ultimately supports luxury brand positioning, creates brand recognition and loyalty, and drives traffic to all points of sale. “You must build a quality culture, with uncompromising devotion,” said Widro. “The quality of the experience is key to the consumer and leads to brand loyalty.” That, added Widro, also hinges on quality partnerships with suppliers.
