Beauty Packaging Celebrates 15 Rosy Years

Beauty Packaging Celebrates 15 Rosy Years

From 1996 through the present, Beauty Packaging has provided cosmetic, fragrance and personal care professionals with relevant product news and packaging information. As BP celebrates its 15th anniversary, it remains the only magazine and online community fully dedicated to packaging for the beauty industry. Following is a brief look, year by year, of a fraction of the many product and packaging introductions that have appeared in the pages of BP over the past 15 years, along with a sprinkling

of industry trends, announcements and appointments.

Interspersed throughout you’ll find insight and personal comments on the last decade and a half from leaders of key organizations as well as longstanding suppliers. We hope you enjoy this trip down Beauty Packaging’s Memory Lane, and we look forward to commemorating your special efforts and announcements in the future.

By Jamie Matusow, Editor

Traditionally, crystal is considered to be the primary material for the 15th anniversary, with glass as the modern material—very appropriate for Beauty Packaging as we celebrate the glass and other materials so beautifully utilized by this year’s FiFi finalists, as well as all the many other cosmetic, fragrance and personal care packages highlighted in this issue—and always.

Flowers associated with this special anniversary are roses, again very appropriate, as we reminisce on our rosy publishing history and look forward to further growth and blossoming in the years ahead. Jay Gorga, publisher of Beauty Packaging, and I thank you for all of your support, comments and contributions over the years. It is truly a pleasure to serve you and to keep you up to date on all the latest packaging trends and innovations that will give your brand the cutting edge.

Reading through back issues of Beauty Packaging (which launched as Cosmetic Packaging & Design in 1996 as a supplement to Happi), in preparation for this retrospective article, I was amazed at how today’s packaging concerns mirror those of years past. Similar to today, brands were looking at redesign rather than new packaging; cutting back on materials in efforts for light weighting and fitting more items on shelf; capitalizing on using PCR materials for cartons, with 30% recycled content (especially true for Aveda and The Body Shop); and returning to luxury as simplicity. In addition, customers were shopping for mass products at Walmart, as well as occasionally splurging at Neiman-Marcus; and beauty companies were striving to remain positive in a tough economic market losing ground from the height of spending in the ’80s. Brands were repackaging in attempts to appeal to the attractive Asian market, and looking at freedom within a lifestyle, with a rise in sampling and small sizes. Estée Lauder had launched a standalone store in Manhasset, NY, catering to shoppers, inviting them to browse without a salesperson hovering over their shoulder—an idea that CEO Fabrizio Freda recently mentioned as part of a plan to expand company sales in the Brazilian marketplace.

A 1998 editorial message focused on the fact that the U.S., faced with a global economic crisis, worried about holiday sales. Fragrance sales had slipped. And the dreaded Y2K disaster lurked around the corner.

More than 10 years later, the industry, though still faced with many of the same issues, thrives. One thing that has not changed over time is the constant innovation and creativity that define the beauty industry and make it always new and exciting.

Following is a brief listing that highlights a sprinkling of the many launches, trends, awards and appointments in the beauty industry over the past 15 years, along with comments by several prominent “personalities.” Product photos, in most cases, are representative and not meant to depict the actual event/launch that is listed. Information has been gleaned from Beauty Packaging’s archives; for archives starting in 2000, please go to www.beautypackaging.com.

15 Years of Beauty and Packaging

1996
• Jhirmack hair products undergo redesign.
• Cartier’s So Pretty launches.
• Estée Lauder’s Pleasures premiers.
• “Simple elegance in packaging design”; “Tall and thin” and “broad, squarish” fragrance bottles mark trends, according to designer Marc Rosen. (see more from Rosen on p.58).
• Revlon releases age-defying makeup.
• Estée Lauder announces Verite skin care products.
• Lancôme Poeme fragrance
• A lot of repackaging/updating takes place.
• Guerlain Alphabella appears in a dual-chamber airless system.
• Max Factor makeup shows up in a tottle.
• Philosophy line starts up.

CEW Helps to Shape Industry Written by Carlotta Jacobson, president, Cosmetic Executive Women One of the most exciting developments for the beauty industry has been the evolution of the CEW Beauty Awards program, which celebrates product innovation. CEW members, who are beauty insiders, have always had a unique knowledge of product development and the ability to recognize innovation. Sixteen years ago, we had 35 entries for the first ever Beauty Awards. This year’s CEW Beauty Awards had 550 entries, and the number of entries in the Indie category almost doubled from previous years. All of this speaks to how the industry has experienced real innovation over the years. Moreover, utilizing the expert vote of the beauty industry to create this seal of approval for consumers has translated into sales at retail. To view the 2010 winners and finalists, go to www.cew.org. As CEW continues to work to advance women in the industry, we will continue to provide access, knowledge and career development opportunities for our members. This year, we are celebrating our 35th year of recognizing women’s achievements in the beauty industry at the CEW Achiever Awards. Eighty women have received this honor throughout the years. These women have shaped the industry in so many ways.

1997
• Department store retailers enjoy a rebound.
• Packaging in cans goes prestige.
• Licensing—NFL body care range
• Rusk Sensories line
• 212 by Carolina Herrera
• CK Contradiction
• Gingham by Bath & Body Works
• Revlon She fragrance
• Thierry Mugler Angel fragrance
• YSL Mascara Essentiel
• Givenchy Organza scent
• Givenchy Rouge Couture lipstick
• Avon’s Josie Natori fragrance

1998
• Helene Curtis Thermasilk
• J.F. Lazartigue mass hair care
• Yves Rocher expands in U.S., with CelDefence and Riche Crème, especially.
• Fun teen/whimsical cosmetic brands appear, such as Jane brand, Stila, Urban Decay.
• Moving from fragrance to complete personal care lines for bath, body and home.
• Nicole, Nicole Miller
• Lolita Lempicka fragrance premiers.
• MAC gets an update
• Demeter launches.
• Sephora—self-service—hits SoHo.
• Rise of upscale mass market hair care brands
• Surlyn starts to cap bottles.
• Applicator tips start expansion.
• Coty’s Healing Garden
• Oil of Olay Color and Neutrogena Color blur the line between mass and prestige.
• Rise of dual-duty products—i.e, Elizabeth Arden adds hydrating lip color, breath freshener formula.

1999
• Rise of sustainability and the green wave…
• Lelong Pour Femme
• Hope Diamond Collection’s Fable
• Aromatherapy—Relaxing Sleep, by Essence of Vali
• Magazine sampling becomes a hot trend.
• Bill Blass Amazing fragrance
• YSL Paris Collection Diamant launches.
• Lalique Jour et Nuit fragrance
• Specialty boutiques, apothecary style gain popularity.
• Upscaling of the mass market
• The fall of hair spray and rise of gels and other hair products (partly due to environmental reasons).
• Ralph Lauren Romance-Men, with aftershave and deodorant
• Aluminum grows in popularity.
• Neutrogena launches color cosmetics.
• Large in-store settings take over mass market and drug stores.
• “No-label” clear look spreads.
• Herbal Essences extends to facial care.
• Diesel Plus masculine and feminine fragrances

10 Years of HBA IPDA Coverage HBA Global’s International Package Design Awards (IPDA) premiered in 2000, and Beauty Packaging, a sponsor of the Awards, has provided continuous coverage ever since. While presentations are made in a variety of categories, there is one Grand Award issued each year. Following are the Grand Award Winners along with the categories for which they won, for the past 10 years. This year’s winners will be announced at HBA Global Expo, September 28-30. 2000—Fragile by J.P. Gaultier/ Fragrance Category 2001—Skin Care Line by English Ideas/Skin Care Category 2002—Diesel Green by Marbert/Fragrance Category 2003—Olay Regenerist by Procter & Gamble/Skin Care Category 2004—Hot Box Mini Make-Up Kit by Urban Decay/Cosmetics Category 2005—Silver Rain by La Prairie, Inc./Fragrance Category 2006— Missoni Profumi by The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc./Fragrance Category 2007—Gold Eau de Parfum by Donna Karan/The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc./Fragrance Category 2008— L'Oréal Skin Genesis by L’Oréal/Skin Care Category 2009—Lancôme Lotus by Lancôme/Cosmetics Category

2000
• Bath and body care market grows.
• Y2K becomes a dim memory.
• Coty leads the mass market, dominating women’s and men’s fragrance and gift packs.
• Use of PET increases.
• Origins uses mason jars to package scrub products.
• Body Shop uses containers that resemble old-fashioned milk bottles for its Milk Bath range.
• Fun packaging features labels that look hand-drawn.
• Cosmetics packaging on-the-go gains in popularity.
• Packaging goes from simple to more decorative.
• Tarte Cosmetics launches.

2001
• Aluminum continues to gain momentum, with its luxe look and eco-friendly attributes.
• Bernd Beetz named new Coty Inc. CEO.
• Victoria’s Secret Pink fragrance
• Nautica Latitude Longitude
• Report that department store sales of cosmetics & fragrances jump 5% for the year 2000.
• Sampling techniques and skin care continue to grow.
• Foamers froth up.
• Sales of candles cool.
• Nitro fragrance launches.
• Victoria’s Secret Dream Angels body cream extends line.

2002
• Estée Lauder voted Beauty Packaging’s 2001 Company of the Year-Excellence in Packaging, the magazine’s first such competition.
• Tubes become more sophisticated.
• Outsourcing speeds up big time.
• More companies launch websites.
• Ralph Lauren Polo Blue
• Roger Caracappa of Estée Lauder honored as 2002 HBA Packaging Executive of the Year.
• Unilever’s Axe takes aim with men.
• Liz Claiborne Bora Bora
• Vera Wang launches in clean, tailored bottle.
• Beauty Packaging launches website and publishes 1st annual Buyers’ Guide.
• Mary Kay launches MK Signature.
• HBA celebrates 10th anniversary.
• L’Oréal establishes Institute for Ethnic Hair and Skin Research.

Rethinking Fine Fragrance By Sheherazade Chamlou, VP Sales & Marketing, SGD North America The economic downturn is forcing the industry to rethink the fine fragrance business model, for the better. Innovation is the lifeblood of fragrance, providing continued differentiation. Fragrances need to be differentiated, and unique packages create on-shelf excitement, which will accomplish this task. Packaging innovation is increasingly a critical success factor, particularly with the need to respond to the environmental agenda, switch to sustainable resources and lower carbon footprints. With more beauty companies promoting their green initiatives, glass is becoming more desirable and the No. 1 packaging material for fragrances, especially from a sustainability and recyclability viewpoint.

2003
• Limited Brands—voted 2002 Beauty Packaging’s Company of the Year-Excellence in Packaging
• CK Crave
• Airless dispensing products continue development.
• Donna Karan Black Cashmere
• Anna Sui Love
• Celine Dion fragrance launches to coincide with her Vegas show.
• NJPEC, on its 40th anniversary, establishes Packaging Hall of Fame.
• Acquisitions take place at a strong pace (Unilever acquires Helene Curtis; Kao acquires Goldwell, KMS, John Frieda; Henkel acquires Schwarzkopf; P&G acquires Clairol and Wella)—so suddenly just three companies own more than 50% of the world’s hair care market.
• First edition of Luxe Pack NY takes place.
• More companies go live with websites.
• Omnia by Bulgari fragrance
• Cosmoprof NA debuts in Las Vegas.
• Jennifer Lopez for Glow by JLO wins FiFi for celebrity fragrance star of the year.
• More sales of beauty products migrate to big box stores.
• Overseas manufacturing expands from producing inexpensive components to total sourcing of projects, and even formulation and filling.
• Tubes gain in sophistication.
• Arkay celebrates 80 years in the beauty business.
• Olay Regenerist wins IPDA Package of the Year.

What Puts The ‘Pow’ in Fragrance Packaging? Creative packaging may have fluctuated in importance over the past 15 years—and longer—but Rochelle Bloom celebrates its resurgence in 2010. Written by Rochelle Bloom, president, The Fragrance Foundation In 1973, when The Fragrance Foundation created the very first FiFi Awards, only seven categories were recognized, one of which was “Most Appealing Package Introduction,” which was awarded that year to Audace by Parfums Rochas. In the intervening years, The Foundation has continued to recognize and reward the brilliant designers and suppliers from the packaging world every year. In these same years, the FiFi award categories have grown in number to accommodate the evolution of the industry with so many other elements that have come into play. It seems to me that packaging has taken a back seat to the avalanche of fragrance launches, the celebrity factor, a certain amount of “sameness” in fragrances and the new technology that makes everything move so very quickly, to name but a few. In addition, distribution demands have morphed and changed at warp speed. Put this together with the ebb and flow of fashion, the rise and fall of brands and most important, the ever-increasing pressure to bring product to market fast, faster and fastest; all of these factors have affected the significant part that packaging plays in the success of fragrance presentation—and not to its benefit. Once upon a time, packaging played an important, vital role in the life of a fragrance. Glorious, jewel-like flacons, beveled glass stoppers, atomizers with silken tassels and plush outer boxes—all were sought after by collectors or coveted by women who wanted to display them on their dressing tables. The 20th century saw a great deal of artistic influence in bottle design and perfumes and their packaging increasingly fed the fantasies of romance, adventure and escape. Artists of the period created sculptural works in perfume bottle designs that distinguished them as art in their own right. In 1946, Salvador Dali designed Elsa Schiaparelli’s Le Roy Soleil (The Sun King) in a three dimensional Baccarat crystal bottle. Without a doubt, packaging is one of the most important details of fragrance presentation as it represents the personality and character of the fragrance itself. When a fragrance package complements the aesthetic of a fragrance, it can unquestionably enhance its appeal. For the past few years, this “need for speed”—not to mention increased costs, necessary to bring fragrance to market—has left little room for all the elements of design to coalesce into one harmonious image. Packaging lost its ability to reflect the fragrance or enhance the whole concept of the fragrance story simply because there was just not enough time or money to pull it all together. Happily, I believe we are seeing a great resurgence in the art of packaging, and consumers are responding with delight. The Wow Factor is back. Examples of packaging success include Daisy and Lola by Marc Jacobs, with the fashion designer’s contemporary fashion vibe, and the whimsical Harajuku Lovers collection by singer/fashion designer Gwen Stefani. All represent a modern craftsmanship, inspired by global cultural influences of today, and are certainly collectibles for the 21st century and beyond. Another example is La Prairie’s Life Threads Collection: Silver, Gold and Platinum are beautiful, tactile and artful, reflecting luxury and aspiration. We have even been getting calls asking for factices—something we have not experienced for quite a long time. As they say, first impressions count and certainly this is true of packaging today more than ever before. So we say bravo to the designers who have re-invigorated and re-energized the art and craft of perfume packaging and the tech masters who have introduced modern perfume applications to appeal to a new generation. And we wonder, who will win a FiFi this year for being the best of the best? 15 Years of FiFis for Best Fragrance Packaging The FiFi Award presentations began in 1973, but following is a selection of packaging winners during Beauty Packaging’s 15-years of publication. For complete listings, please go to www.fragrance.org 1996: Cheap and Chic, Estée Lauder Pleasures, Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger, Hugo by Hugo Boss. 1997: 24, Faubourg, Celebrate, Bvlgari Pour Homme, Navigator for Men, Raw Vanilla for Men. 1998: Relaxing Fragrance, Josie, Swiss Army Fragrance, Cold by Benetton. 1999: Flirt, Believe Inspired by Christie Brinkley, Bvlgari Black, Stetson Country. 2000: Gucci Rush, Neblina, Sander for Men, Homme Nature. 2001: Mania, Annam, Burberry Touch for Men, Perceive for Men. 2002: Comedie by Michel Klein, Flower by Kenzo, 001 Coty, Bvlgari BLV Pour Homme. 2003: Marc Jacobs Men, Vera Wang. 2004: Flower By Kenzo, Dunhill, Illusion, Adidas Adrenaline Man. 2005: Spirit Antonio Banderas, L’Eau Bleue D’Issey Pour Homme, The Healing Garden in Bloom, Shanghai. 2006: Armani Privé, Celine Dion Belong, Today, Tomorrow, Always For Men. 2007: Armani Privé Cuir Amethyst (unisex), KenzoAmour, Viktor & Rolf Antidote, Secrets D’Essences Voile d’Ambre, Driven - Derek Jeter. 2008: Marc Jacobs Daisy, Attitude by Giorgio Armani, Christian Lacroix Rouge, Intimately Beckham Men. 2009: Harajuku Lovers Fragrances, Ma Dame – Jean Paul Gaultier, 91X Rocawear, Avon Bond Girl 007, McGraw by Tim McGraw. 2010: Who will win this year???

2004
• Avon chosen as 2003 BP Company of the Year -Excellence in Packaging.
• Beauty Packaging Premiers Top 20 Global Beauty Companies feature report—L’Oréal ranks No.1; P&G, No. 2.
• Beauty Packaging expands to 8 issues due to popular demand.
• Estée Lauder launches Donald Trump, The Fragrance.
• Estée Lauder passes away at age 97.
• John Varvatos Skin premiers.
• DKNY Be Delicious launches.
• ICMAD launches CITY Awards.
• Oscar de la Renta receives FiFi Hall of Fame Award from Sarah Jessica Parker.
• Wella puts pearls in a pump (suspends pearls in a gel).
• Curious, the first fragrance by Britney Spears, rings up big sales.
• Chanel re-introduces its classic Chanel No. 5 in extravagant ad campaign featuring Nicole Kidman.
• In general, prestige fragrance grows by a tiny margin, but mass falls slightly.

Order of the Day Written by Jenifer Brady, VP sales & marketing, Brad-PAK Enterprises, Inc. Fifteen years ago, we were predominantly 75% glass packaging with the remainder of the inventory polyethylene or polypropylene. Our inventory changed a few years later to a good assortment of PET bottles/jars along with a variety of sprayers, metal and plastic sprayers and metal and plastic lotion pumps and eyedroppers. Customers wanted more of a variety of stock packaging, including colors. Shapes and sizes were still standard during this time. Customers were ordering on a regular basis and basically always ordered the same quantity-wise. Back then, customers usually accepted the lead times you gave them. They were also ordering via phone and fax, and were always reachable by telephone to answer questions. Now, by today's standards, customers are ordering in quantities of what they just need (just-in-time) and they don’t want to hold any surplus inventory. We also branched out to accepting credit cards in addition to offering corporate online ordering, interacting with the customers’ own software. Also, other packaging materials are being requested such as acrylic, SAN, post consumer resin, bio-plastics, etc. We are always adapting to the customers’ needs, and the trend in 2010 seems to be short leads and ordering only the exact quantity of bottles/jars that is needed. Customers are also more demanding in their requests. They want a stock bottle or jar that is very unique, but they don’t want to build a private mold and they want to pay the same price as a regular commodity item. Also, with technology moving so fast, people don’t get to speak and keep up relationships via phone with the customers. Mostly all transactions are done via email or through online ordering.

2005
• Chanel voted as Beauty Packaging’s 2004 Company of the Year-Excellence in Packaging.
• Tommy Bahama launches first fragrance.
• Beauty Packaging celebrates 10th anniversary.
• Bath & Body Works honored with the “Art of Packaging Award.”
• Brandonology launches B4.
• P&G acquires Gillette.
• Bond No. 9 launches Chinatown.
• RFID arrives at Walmart.
• Estée Lauder forms alignment with fashion designer Tom Ford.
• Avon wins approval to test direct-selling in China.
• Marisa Tomei hosts the FiFis.
• Carolina Herrera accepts the FiFi hall of Fame award from Katie Holmes.
• Shanghai wins the FiFi for Best Packaging, Women’s Prestige.
• L’Eau Bleue D’Issey Pour Homme wins the Fifi for Best Packaging, Men’s Prestige.
• P&G honored with Art of Packaging Award.
• Gap and Banana Republic enter personal care.
• Obsession Night launches.
• Alexander McQueen’s MyQueen launches, and is evocative of a Faberge design.
• La Prairie’s Silver Rain wins the IPDA Grand award.
• Sharon Stone becomes the face of Christian Dior’s Capture line of skin care.
• Top 20—L’Oréal takes lead again, followed by P&G.

2006
• Pureology voted as BP’s 2005 Company of the Year-Excellence in Packaging.
• Cosmetic Packaging & Design undergoes a name change—to Beauty Packaging!
• NJPEC chooses Island Michael Kors for Estée Lauder as Package of the Year.
• Kao acquires Kanebo Cosmetics.
• P&G signs contract with Dolce & Gabbana.
• L’Oréal signs agreement with Diesel for a line of fragrances.
• Euphoria Calvin Klein, for Coty Prestige, wins the FiFi in Women’s Luxe for Fragrance of the Year.
• L’Oréal signs agreement to acquire The Body Shop.
• Deluge of “doctor” brands spreads through the market.
• Avon Partners with NY Yankees shortstop Derek Jeter.
• P&G tops L’Oréal as No. 1 in Top 20 Global Beauty Companies, by a slight margin.
• Denis Boudard, president and founder, QSLD Design Group, wins the competition for the redesign ofThe Fragrance Foundation’s FiFi Award trophy.
• Vera Wang Princess launches.
• Walmart Stores, Inc. releases a packaging scorecard to continue its commitment of reducing packaging across its global supply chain.

2007
• Alterna voted as BP’s 2006 Company of the Year-Excellence in Packaging.
• Clinique honored with the Pratt Institute-Luxe Pack Art of Packaging Award.
• Elizabeth Arden partners with Jimmie Johnson for men’s scent.
• NJPEC selects Bare Minerals Eye Liner Quad Kit for Bare Escentuals, submitted by HCT Packaging, as Package of the Year.
• Hilary Rhoda becomes the new face of Estée Lauder cosmetics and skin care.
• Cosmoprof Bologna celebrates its 40th anniversary.
• L’Oréal acquires Pureology.
• Playtex buys Hawaiian Tropic.
• P&G buys HDS Cosmetics (Doctor’s Dermatologic Formula skin care).
• Juicy Couture wins the FiFi for Bath & Body Line of the Year.
• Reese Witherspoon signs on as Avon’s global ambassador.
• Jill Scalamandre, chief marketing officer, Chrysallis, receives HBA’s lifetime achievement award in marketing.
• P&G, with beauty sales of $23 billion, trumps L’Oréal (with sales of $19.8 billion) again in Top 20 global beauty companies.
• Luxe Pack Monaco celebrates 20 years.
• Jamie Matusow becomes Beauty Packaging’s editor.

The Rise of Rigid Packaging By Jeremy Cohen, president & CEO, Knoll Printing & Packaging Forty years ago, a box company in Brooklyn decided to put a flocked vacuum form inside a rigid box. Alas, the high volume cosmetic gift set with a plain box and cover was born. Knoll Packaging came onto the scene about 15 years after that. In 1995, at a time when designers couldn’t dream of square corners, ovals, rounds, split rounds, drawers, doors, locks, and hardware, Knoll began to manufacture in China, and created the trend of added-value rigid packaging. Today, this is the standard. We have evolved from an industry with limited dimensional capabilities, into one with unlimited potential. Dramatic improvements in pricing and decorating capabilities are par for the course. Designers today continue to find new ways to bend the norms and defy expectations.

2008
• P&G voted as BP’s 2007 Company of the Year-Excellence in Packaging.
• Fair Trade Certification gains ground.
• Coty acquires Del Labs.
• Ralph Lauren Romance celebrates 10th anniversary.
• Whole Foods launches its own “green” seal of approval for premium body care.
• Cargo Cosmetics cited by DuPont’s awards for packaging innovation for its groundbreaking PlantLove lipstick, made of PLA, and packaged in a biodegradable carton embedded with wildflower seeds.
• Avon announces Patrick Dempsey partnership.
• Jay Gorga joins Beauty Packaging as publisher.
• Harajuku Lovers line appears in doll-like packaging.
• Marc Jacobs Daisy, from Coty Prestige, wins the FiFi for Best Packaging—Women’s Prestige.
• Estée Lauder launches Sensuous.
• Parlux launches Jessica Simpson Fancy.
• L’Oréal Skin Genesis wins IPDA’s 2008 Package of the Year award.
• CVS introduces Beauty 360 stores.

2009
• Coty voted as BP’s 2008 Company of the Year-Excellence in Packaging.
• Fabrizio Freda becomes president and CEO, The Estée Lauder Companies.
• Art of Packaging Award celebrates 20th anniversary.
• NJPEC celebrates 30th anniversary of Package of the Year awards.
• Barbie celebrates the big 5-0 and lots of beauty packages celebrate.
• P&G’s Susan E. Arnold announces retirement after 29 years of service.
• Frederic Roze replaces Laurent Attal as president and CEO of L’Oréal USA.
• Maesa Group acquires Zorbit Resources for $50 million.
• Benefit Cosmetics enters fragrance sector.
• The Fragrance Foundation celebrates its 60th anniversary, and launches its One Drop Changes Everything multimedia campaign.
• Avon’s Bond Girl 007 wins the FiFi for Best Packaging of the Year: Women’s Popular Appeal.
• Coty welcomes Beyonce to its fragrance family.
• Bob McDonald replaces A.G. Lafley as president and CEO of P&G.

Rolling Along at Retail for 15 Years By Rachel Turner, Chicago Paper Tube & Can Co., Inc. Chicago Paper Tube & Can Co. opened its doors in 1898 on Chicago's west side, manufacturing primarily hand-rolled paper tubes for a smattering of local industries like the Chicago Telephone Company, which used small, thick, paper tubes to protect repairs made along telephone wires. The price for these tubes in 1898: 15 for a penny. Over the next several decades, Chicago Paper Tube combined constant innovation with specialized, new machinery to broaden the applications for their paperboard tubes. Expanding the operation, 15 years ago, in the 1990s to include a retail-packaging division, the company helped to pioneer the use of the paper tube as a cosmetic-grade packaging solution by manufacturing containers with premium, custom graphics and innovative package design.

2010
• Beauty Packaging celebrates its 15th year!
• L’Oréal voted as BP’s 2009 Company of the Year-Excellence in Packaging.
• Murad reports record year.
• H&M introduces organic skin care line.
• Yves Rocher marks 50th anniversary.
• Estée Lauder announces sharp rise in sales.
• Elizabeth Arden quarter tops expectations.
• P&G reports increase in beauty sales.
• Estée Lauder brings Origins to China.
• Shiseido acquires Bare Escentuals.
• BP launches popular column “The Expert’s View” at www.beautypackaging.com.

Reflections of a Designer’s Eye Acclaimed designer Marc Rosen points out some major turns in packaging trends over the past decade and a half, and explains why packaging designers have now gone mainstream. Written by Marc Rosen Internationally acclaimed designer Marc Rosen is known for his award-winning fragrance, cosmetic, and fashion packaging. He is a seven-time FiFi award winner. Package designers help brand new products by creating packaging that underscores the sensibilities and needs of society. Fifteen years ago, our industry was just moving from the iconic big three cosmetic giants—Lauder, Arden and Lancôme—that had dominated the late ’70s, ’80s and early ’90s. The younger consumer no longer wanted “their mother’s cosmetic brands” and attached themselves to the new “professional” makeup brands such as MAC and Bobbi Brown. Women felt that they no longer needed the authority of the major companies, but rather preferred these newer lines tied to celebrity makeup artists. In skin care, once again, the big brands lost their authority to the new Doctor/Derm lines that promised medical formulas with guaranteed results. Baby Boomers were leading the path to youth for a price. So how did the packaging change? It was no-gilt! Gold that is! The ’80s, the era of conspicuous consumption, thrived on gilt. The more the better, and cosmetics packaging was no exception.Now, suddenly in 1995, it was “color me black”—black compacts and lipstick cases and black jars or at least black caps. Less was more and the consumer felt that they were no longer paying for elaborate packaging, but getting youth serum instead. In the end, we succeeded in creating multiple black packaged lines that looked generic! Not exactly “dream branding.” With the millennium came renewed prosperity: a different kind of wealth, for a younger generation. Exhibited in expensive devices, automobiles and technology, these consumers wanted “new, new, new!” Skin creams that promised eternal youth boasted glamorous packaging that commanded hefty prices; lipsticks in beautiful cases were tagged at over $20. More was more! What’s a Package Designer to Do? Packaging does much more than present another pretty face to consumers. Packaging matters. Whether skin care, makeup or fragrance, the packaging is meant to do more than support an image. It must explain and maintain a position regarding the product within. Today’s fastest growing category—skin care—whether mass or class, needs to relate its product message to the consumer through its packaging. If it’s a derm or doctor line, then the containers must speak to efficacy, simplicity and results. The newest luxury brands have taken a page out of the fragrance category by presenting themselves in heavy glass bottles and jars that are beautifully decorated and topped with exquisite jewel-like closures that bespeak quality, elegance and the precious serums within. Lines like SK-II have created presence in an overcrowded category through innovative packaging. Makeup is very packaging-driven, but in a completely different way. Here, color is king, the color of the products. The containers serve as the image that creates a background for the brand. Chanel is the perfect example. The company’s black and gold iconic lipstick packaging with the double “C” logo debossed on the top serves as the classic designer’s image of a superior product, fashion color deluxe. The other end of the color spectrum is Bobbi Brown’s “less is more” clear and black, no-nonsense packaging.A renowned “professional” makeup artist-driven line, Bobbi is all about color and product. The packaging explains the company’s “MO” and underscores this image, making the line, through its packaging, accessible to its loyal consumer base. Fragrance of course is all about the subliminal: emotional response and image.Whether a celebrity or designer-driven line or a good old-fashioned attitudinal brand, the bottle must create the instant response that is appropriate to the brand. Fragrance used to be all about sexy, romantic or aspirational. Today, in a recession-based economy with declining retail sales, a new theme has given consumers “permission to buy”: charm and humor via in-your-face packaging. Marc Jacobs’ Lola, Viktor & Rolf’s Eau Mega and Juicy Couture’s Couture, Couture are prime examples. Whether a perfume bottle or a crème jar, a lipstick case or a blush compact, the package is not just another pretty face. It must contain, explain and maintain the product within. A decade and a half later, package design is more appreciated than ever. When I began designing, companies really didn’t want consumers to know how much the packaging cost as part of the total. Today, consumers know that they are buying design. They understand that they react to the package at point of purchase and may very well choose one product over another due to the way they relate to the design, Stores like Target have bought good design to the mass client. We are no longer in the closet with our drawing boards. We are definitely mainstream!