08.25.11
Floral designs and color gradations, such as those on Givenchy Very Irresistible L’Intense, proved popular. |
Fragrance stats are on the rise, and brands are capitalizing on fabulous flacons for best results.
With global and domestic reports of a rising trend in fragrance sales, there’s no shortage of recent launches. Whether in the U.S. or abroad, the accent on scent runs the gamut—celebrities, flowers, countries, cities, cars and even blood types—and packaging plays a powerful role in capturing consumers’ heart- and purse-strings.
According to a report released earlier this year by Global Industry Analysts, Inc. (GIA), the global fragrances and perfumes market is expected to exceed $33 billion by 2015, “driven by a growing trend toward consumer urbanization, higher spending propensity and heightened importance of personal appearance and grooming. In addition, increased demand for youth-oriented, floral and exotic fragrances and celebrity perfumes will set the pace for rapid market expansion.”
The report predicts that women’s fragrance will lead the market, but that the men’s category is on course for rapid acceleration. GIA adds that while regions such as the U.S. and Europe are witnessing slight comebacks from a flat period, emerging world markets are picking up the slack, and providing opportunity for future growth.
GIA says the niche segments of luxury as well as custom fragrances remained relatively stable throughout the recession, and continue to show marginal growth in sales.
Packaging Trends
Karen Grant, vice president, NPD Beauty—and a member of Beauty Packaging’s Board of Advisors—notes the same prestige trends domestically, and credits innovative packaging for much of the continuous and renewed interest. According to NPD research, year-to-date January-June 2011, women’s fragrance sales fell slightly (12% in dollars), while men’s grew by an impressive 35%.
Women’s fragrance launches generated $32.9 million for the period. “In looking at the top women’s launches,” says Grant, “the trends we saw were big, plastic flowers on recent top launches including Daisy Eau So Fresh, Justin Bieber Someday, and Bond No. 9 Madison Square Park.” In fact, says Grant, “the January 2011 launch of Daisy Eau So Fresh garnered a 20 percent share of total launch volume, a 32 percent share of women’s.” For year-to-date 2011, Daisy Eau So Fresh generated $10.6 million, or close to $2 million more than last year’s top ranked first half launch brand, Chance Eau Tendre.”
Justin Bieber Someday, Grant reports, which hit counters in June 2011, captured over 6% of all launch dollars, a 10% share of women’s. “This marks the strongest first month sales among all launches this year, with over $3.3 million generated in its debut month on counter.”
Other notable trends among the top women’s launches, according to Grant, were accents on the bottles such as the bows on Bulgari Mon Jasmin Noir and Chloe Rose, and the charm hanging from the Coach Summer Edition fragrance. The color gradations on summer-edition fragrances including CK One Summer 2011, Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess Soleil and Thierry Mugler Alien Sunessence Or D’Ambre “showcased the vibrant colors of the season,” says Grant, while the floral designs on the bottles of Calvin Klein Eternity Summer 2011, Philosophy Summer Grace, and Givenchy Very Irresistible L’Intense “brought a soft and elegant feel to the scents.”
Men’s prestige fragrance launches, according to NPD research, generated $19.4 million for the period, which resulted in a 35% growth in dollars when compared to year-to-date 2010. In looking at the top men’s launches, Grant says packaging trends included strong lines with metal accents, such as Prada Amber Pour Homme Intense, Pure Nautica Discovery, Gucci Guilty Homme, Ecko Blue, Angel Men Pure Havane, and Burberry Sport Ice Men. In addition, Grant points to “bold designs such as the cubic Zen for Men White Heat, the classic shape of a man for Le Male Summer 2011 (which is characteristic of Jean Paul Gaultier scents), and the uniquely cylindrical design of Aqva Pour Homme Toniq and Aqva Pour Homme Marine Toniq, which represent strong masculinity.
Celebrity Appeal
Celebrity and designer appeal continue to soar in both the mass and prestige markets. GIA says fragrance sales are driven by the strength of big name endorsements, and that demand for celebrity-inspired scents shows no signs of abating. Additionally, the researcher reports “the fine fragrances market is increasingly looking at the teenage segment as a potential growth market.”
The pending department store launch of Grammy Award winning singer/songwriter Taylor Swift’s first fragrance, Wonderstruck, from Elizabeth Arden, will undoubtedly be a hit not only with her younger fans, but with a more mature market as well, due to its exotic, magical and personalized packaging.
The name Wonderstruck comes from the song “Enchanted” on Taylor’s current album, Speak Now. Swift says, “I wrote the lyric, ‘I’m wonderstruck, blushing all the way home,’ about the first time you meet someone. A fragrance can help shape someone’s first impression and memory of you. It’s exciting to think that Wonderstruck will play a role in creating some of those memories.”
| A Passion for Packaging Foti Flogeras is an award-winning packaging designer with a passion and flair for fragrance bottles. Although he has yet to design for a leading fragrance brand (he is now in talks), he has designed several fragrance bottles and secondary packaging for manufacturers in Europe and Taiwan. In 2009, he submitted his first collection of designs at the 2009 International Communication Design Award competition held at the BMW Welt in Munich where he received an award. “Designing a fragrance bottle is an art,” says Flogeras. “For me it is a passion, probably an obsession. The essence of my designs is an attempt to achieve an integration of the cosmetic art with the purity of nature, combined together with the transformation and evolvement of human emotions, feelings and senses. All of my designs come from a variety of different themes based upon simple materials from the natural environment, all images collected throughout my travels.” Here, Flogeras shares a few of his many designs, which he says are ready for manufacturing. |
McLaughlin spent a full day with Swift in her Nashville apartment where he “took in all elements of her lifestyle.” These “clues” were then translated into the package. Her curtains, for example, were all different fabrics sewn together—and became inspiration for the outer carton, a modern day patchwork of sorts, achieved by Cultech Inc.
The carton design also features a frame—a trademark of her album. Other elements in her home, such as a Moravian chandelier and a birdcage-like sitting area were interpreted and produced by Jackel as embossings on the cap and as “antiqued” gold charms on the chain hanging from the bottle.
Since Swift often tweets secret messages to her fans, these, too, are incorporated on cap and carton. “The more you stare at the carton, the more words can be deciphered,” said McLaughlin. The finishing touch to the package is a gold embossed 13, which fans will recognize as Swift’s lucky number.
Beyonce Pulse is packaged in an inverted bottle with a chrome cap inspired by the singer’s stage costumes. |
McLaughlin told me that they had decided on the name of the fragrance first, then wanted an enchanted, mystical look for the bottle. “When I saw that finish, which had never been done before, I wanted to pursue that technique… the magical quality.”
The innovative finish was achieved by SGD Group. Sheherazade Chamlou, vice president of sales and marketing, SGD, explains the technique: “The shimmer effect on the bottle is a technical innovation because it is a special material which is new to fragrance bottle decoration.SGD worked in close collaboration through various samplings to achieve the aesthetic balance between the dosages of purple tint and shimmer effect. In fact, the bottle takes on different dynamic looks depending on surrounding lighting and colors in the room.”
“Taylor was very involved in every element of the packaging,” said McLaughlin, who added that he even had to fly to Norway at one point where she was performing.
Swift is not, of course, the only singer launching a new scent. She’s accompanied by, to name a few, Mariah Carey (Lollipop Splash, from Arden), Celine Dion (Celine Dion Signature, Coty Beauty), Harajuku Lovers (Super G!, Coty Beauty) and Beyonce (Beyonce Pulse, Coty Beauty)—and on the men’s side, Keith Urban (Phoenix, from Boom) and Trey Songz, (Evolution, Rocawear).
Also in the rapidly growing men’s market, tennis star Andy Roddick stands to win points for Lacoste; while the macho demeanor of General George S. Patton may appeal to power players, via Parfumologie’s official Army-licensed, Patton (a percentage of profits will be donated to Veterans Affairs). A Mercedes-Benz fragrance is also reported to be in the works.
City Bred
For those who hold an olfactory association with their country or hometown city—or one they visit—there are a number of possibilities that promise to capture or evoke fragrant memories.
A new Lithuanian blend, called “Lietuvos Kvapas,” or The Scent of Lithuania claims to have gathered together the smells of the small Baltic nation—with aromas of wildflowers, ginger, raspberry, sandalwood and musk.
Globetrotters everywhere will be able to relive their adventures via associated smells thanks to Heaven’s Alchemy, a brand that reaches out to nationals, tourists and armchair travelers with a series of fragrances that aim to capture the allure of some of the world’s great destinations. Users find themselves just a spritz and a whiff away from cities such as Casablanca, Kyoto, Milan, Dubai, Jerusalem, Istanbul, Paris, St. Petersburg, Zanzibar and New York, due to the brand’s use of ingredients native to or “historically beloved” in each city, as well as other ingredients, which combine well with them. Even the handcrafted, crystal glass bottles for each scent are designed to embody the artistic and architectural style of each city-inspired scent. For example, the Casablanca scent is described as “mysterious and hypnotic, with delicate hints of Moroccan spices, vanilla and musk surrounding an intoxicating blend of flowers, including Moroccan rose, gardenia, jasmine and tuberose.” The beautiful combination of Western and Eastern design motifs on its glass container evokes the European and Arabic influences present in Casablanca’s architecture and culture.
New York, New York
The scent of New York is interpreted in a variety of notes—and bottles—this fall. Heaven’s Alchemy describes its blend as “sophisticated and intelligent with a cosmopolitan wit that is pure New York—the enticing little black dress of perfumes, with top notes of juicy blackcurrant, muguet, fresh green, fruity, exciting pink peppercorn.”
Bond No.9 pays tribute not only to the Big Apple, but to the whole Empire State via its new partnership with the iconic “I Love New York” brand. A new series of fragrances, which aims to “celebrate the diversity of New York in a distinct way,” combines the I Love New York logo, with the recognizable red heart, with Bond No. 9’s own logo. There are three versions: I Love New York for Her, in a pink bottle, includes notes of a mandarin zest, spicy nutmeg, and blueberry muffin; I Love New York for Him, in a blue bottle, has opening notes of grapefruit zest, juniper berry, ginger, and a soothing lavender. I Love New York for All is housed in a black bottle, and is described as an infusion of coffee beans with creamy chestnut, and a citrus-floral-spice blend.
Bond No. 9 New York tied in the I Love New York for All unisex fragrance with a special promotion to celebrate same-sex marriage. The first 100 same-sex New York newlywed couples to bring in their marriage certificate to Manhattan’s Bond No. 9 shop on September 12, 2011, when the fragrance makes its entrance, will receive a free bottle.
Perhaps no luxury fragrance brand captures the heart and essence of New York City like the DKNY Apple series. Now, with the introduction of DKNY Golden Delicious—the designer has incorporated a massive philanthropic effort revolving around what the brand calls “the most expensive fragrance bottle in the world.”
Betsey Johnson’s fragrance Too Too, dances to counter in a playful silhouette dressed in a tulle tutu. |
But even Donna Karan has never before interpreted New York City’s skyline as she now does for her global charity effort. DKNY Fragrances has partnered with celebrity jeweler Martin Katz to create what the brand calls the world’s first million-dollar fragrance bottle—an apple-shaped DKNY Golden Delicious flacon adorned with rare jewels. It will be exhibited around the world, and then made available for purchase with net proceeds benefiting Action Against Hunger, a global humanitarian organization committed to ending world hunger.
The DKNY Golden Delicious Million Dollar Fragrance Bottle is carved from polished 14-karat yellow and white gold and features the New York skyline set in thousands of brilliant white and golden yellow diamonds—more than 20 carats in all. A 2.43-carat flawless yellow canary diamond adorns the “cap” of the bottle alongside a DKNY Golden Delicious diamond oval logo.
The apple sits upon a double-layer, white glass base, which sandwiches the continents of the Earth, set with precious gemstones indigenous to each country.
Betsey Johnson, another iconic NY designer, launches her fragrance Too Too, from InterParfums, in packaging inspired by an ornament she once uncovered in a Woodstock, NY shop. “I thought that if I ever did my own perfume I would do that bottle. I wanted to connect it to my work from yesterday and today,” said Johnson.
The vintage-inspired, corseted silhouette bottle is decorated in pink and black and covered with flowers and a tulle tutu, with a namesake Betsey Johnson ribbon. “This is my dream bottle, inspired by Schiaparelli, and years of tutus,” said the dancer turned fashion icon.
French Fashion
Another feminine flacon to hit the fragrance runway this season launches from classic French designer Nina Ricci. The contemporary bottle design is enhanced by soft pink and white touches.The sculptural perfume cap for l’Air by Nina Ricci symbolizes transparent and minimalist doves. This crystalline cap, which was achieved by Albéa, in its factory in Parigné l’Evêque, France, is made from crystal ionomer resin, and has no visible seam markings.
In Your Blood
We’ve heard of The Eat Right for Your Type diet, which guides people to eat certain foods based on their blood type. Now, a brilliantly designed and executed brand prompts you to do the same with fragrance.
Blood Concept is a new line from Intertrade Europe, in which four fragrances are named for blood types A, B, AB and O. The idea is that certain fragrance notes hold instinctual appeal according to blood type. The packaging is clean and crisp, with bold sans-serif letters highlighting silvery vials, complete with pharma-like red droppers for application. Graphics will evolve via an online contest that will invite artists to contribute to the brand’s symbolic “flow.”
For fragrance that truly gets under your skin, how about “The Swallowable Perfume,” reportedly created by an Australian artist and a Harvard University biologist? Take one edible perfume capsule a day, and as you sweat, you’ll release a “distinct” odor.
And in Japan, you can chew your fragrance thanks to gum that’s infused with rose oil and other herbs, which escape through pores to mask any unpleasant body smells. There’s also a shirt sold in Japan that contains fragrance capsules embedded in the collar, so scent releases over time—and repeated washings.
