10.17.11
Rexam’s neutral Nea pump enables metal-free, neutral formula flow of viscous, sensitive and natural beauty products. |
Today’s advanced skin care formulations can be tough on yesterday’s packaging technology. Fortunately, innovative packaging manufacturers are keeping pace.
Ever wonder what you are really putting on your skin each morning? Pull out The Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary, written by estheticians Natalia Michalun and Varinia Michalun, and you’ll realize it could be any number of things. The book details more than 2,000 ingredients that are utilized in beauty treatments, with entries ranging from the familiar to the exotic.
Chances are good that since the publication of the book in 2000, many more ingredients are employed in the fight to reduce wrinkles, ease puffiness or achieve more balanced, healthy skin. Experts today agree that skin care formulations continue to increase in sophistication, which means packaging must also keep up, raising the bar for innovation.
VPI is one company that specializes in packaging these complex products, and Michael Daum, director of sales and marketing, notes the continuous refinement in formulation as well as in terminology. “Not too long ago,” he says, “the term cosmeceuticals was all the rage. Now we have the emerging drivers of nanotechnology, stem cell technologies and ‘beauty from within’—the nutricosmeceuticals. The exciting aspect of this, from my perspective, is that not only is the science there to support these claims, I see the packaging manufacturers keeping pace with these emerging technologies.”
Far from a passive participant, packaging serves a major role when it comes to skin care. The real story in skin care, says Virginie Lemeunier, product manager—lotion, for the Rexam Personal Care Division, is “formula protection, with the rapid transition to sophisticated, high viscosity ingredients that are tough on old-time packaging.”
No AirSeacliff Beauty’sskin care clients overwhelmingly choose airless dispensing systems. |
There is an increased use in any type of airless feature, says Vonda Simon, CEO of Seacliff Beauty, who adds that almost every product line in the works at her company is incorporating airless. Clients that have utilized airless systems include Sunrider skin care products and Sue Devitt skin care.
“Consumers love the new advanced formulations, which are very, very tough on yesterday’s packaging technology,” adds Lemeunier. “The advent of true airless systems, neutral componentry and dispenser tubes demonstrates how enhanced functionality in packaging can lift an entire product category to new heights.”
One of Rexam’s customers, Oriflame, a direct seller of beauty products, recently launched a line of skin care products incorporating advanced formulations, which required superior packaging protection. Oriflame’s Pure Skin Spot Treatment Gel combined Rexam’s neutral Nea lotion pump and a dispenser tube. Nea enables metal-free, neutral formula flow of viscous, sensitive and natural beauty products. The Oriflame brand also utilized Rexam’s Sof’ Airless 30ml and 30ml dispenser tubes for the first two products in its Bioclinic Cosmeceutical Range to protect its Retinol-containing formula.
The Application
Timewise from Mary Kay is a great example of clinical packaging “with a twist,” says Leslie Gadomski of Fusion Packaging. |
For example, Topline Products offers roller ball massaging applicators that help to “enhance circulation, improve skin tone and reduce fine lines,” says Sandra Hutson, sales and marketing director, who also adds that these applicators can be stored in a refrigerator to produce a cooling sensation. The company has also seen exfoliating applicators designed into the packaging of skin care products. This was the case for L’Oréal’s Go 360 Clean Deep Cream Cleanser, which includes a “scrublet” device right in the packaging. The scrublet is designed to aid the cleanser in unclogging pores, removing dirt and washing away makeup.
“The addition of functionality is a deep and growing trend,” says Denis Richard-Orliange, general manager for Cosmogen. In response to this trend, the company has developed a wide range of tips for precise application. These include synthetic bristle brushes, massaging and exfoliating spatulas, silicon tips and removable sponges, to name a few.
“The category continues to evolve as many brands are incorporating functionality,” agrees Jim Perry, president and CEO of TaikiUSA. In addition to developing multiple tip options, he states that the segment is seeing a different variety of material options as well. For example, he says, “Taiki introduced with Guerlain a new material, Triangle PGA. This engineered material functions as the second skin and improves the efficacy of skin care.”
Because added functionality can also mean added costs, some industry experts believe an emerging trend is the use of refillable packaging.
“There is a symbiotic relationship between package functionality and formula performance. Innovative packaging can raise even the best formulations to new levels of performance and customer satisfaction. The challenge will be to find ways of mitigating higher packaging costs, allowing customers to realize the benefit. One way to accomplish this will be through refillable packaging,” says Hutson.
“Trends may be going to refillable, but that’s still been a slow start,” says Seacliff’s Simon. She has created a Mini Kittour line of packaging, enabling customers to refill their products for traveling, to meet this need.
The Looks
While functionality in skin care packaging is a huge part of the skin care market’s story, it isn’t the whole story. The skin care marketplace is increasingly crowded with competition, and brands must also create visually appealing packaging in order to reach this consumer.
“Skin care demands are going up. People want performance and they also want [beautiful] packaging on their bathroom counters. They usually always stay committed to the brand for a very long time, which is a great thing for both consumer and brand,” says Simon.
This desire to appeal to consumers on several levels has led to the proliferation of clinical-look packaging. Richard-Orliange says the driver of this look is a consumer’s desire for safety. “People are afraid of contamination problems and exposure. They need an absolute guarantee of quality and safety,” he adds.
Clinical-look packaging is fairly easy to spot because it often utilizes familiar features. These types of packages tend to have a clean, modern look and often utilize white and silver color schemes, says Hutson. “Claims are clearly indicated on the products,” she says, “strong product names, with unique, clinical-sounding, active ingredients called out so that the consumer has a reason to believe that the product works.”
However, reminds Lesley Gadomski, vice president of sales, Fusion Packaging, “There is a lot of product on the market. Packaging sells and is a huge factor in what women choose as their brand of choice. Therefore, brands are more aware than ever of what design they choose to package in.”
Gadomski adds, “Brands that are the more established lines can and do sometimes go for the more clinical look because their brand speaks for itself and it has a loyal following. However, newer brands trying to break into the market might need a package design to really make them stand out on shelf to get the attention they are looking for.”
In these cases, Gadomski suggests “clinical with a twist.” The recent product launch from world-renowned Mary Kay is a great example of this, she states. In this line, the beautifully designed, signature-colored Mary Kay pink airless bottle is paired with a sleek black collar, which conveys both clinical efficacy and prestige.
VPI’s Daum also sees the importance of standing out when choosing a clinical look. One of the keys to capturing attention on shelf in the clinical category is by prominently displaying both the brand name and the primary benefit, he says. Furthermore, he says, “Standing out on the shelf doesn’t relegate you to black and white. You certainly can differentiate your brands and be eye-catching using rich, pearlized, pigmented resins in tubes, bottles, jars and airless packages.”
Small Things
While performance packaging and clinical looks are trends that have existed for a while in the skin care categories, another, newer trend is also emerging. Whether it’s due to the economy, the need for convenience, or other drivers, some experts have also seen increased demand for small-size packages.
“There is indeed greater use of mini-product programs for existing products—to stay connected with customers, and for new launches, to attract new consumers and build awareness. Mini-products are effective ambassadors to the brand as trial-sized giveaways and as part of gift sets. They create incremental retail touches at a time of heightened competition,” says Lemeunier. “In a challenging economy, and in emerging markets, they also permit the purchase of most-wanted personal care products by those who ordinarily could not afford the full-sized retail product.”
“Small sizes enable customers to sample new products for a few days before buying the full size. And travel sizes are opportunities for longer trials. This is particularly true for skin care,” agrees Richard-Orliange. He adds that this demand is helping to increase the market for sample packettes and thermoformed skin care packages, but cautions that these packages, which do not include specially engineered applicators or other functionalities “do not give the actual performance of the product.”
Gadomski has also noted increased requests for small-sized packaging. To ensure product efficacy even in small doses, the company has launched a full line of mini airless bottles in sizes including 3-, 5- and 10ml. “Some brands are offering mini size bottles as a way to give the consumer the same experience of the product as the final package design versus offering travel or mini sizes in tubes or packettes,” says Gadomski.
Skin Growth
So what’s in store for the dynamic skin care industry and the packaging market that serves it? Market researcher Euromonitor International estimates in its Skin Care in the U.S. report that the U.S. market reached $10.1 billion in 2010. The number represents a 2% growth over 2009, and the market is forecasted to grow 5% in constant value terms over the next five years.
Interesting to note, sales growth in 2010 was driven by premium skin products, which saw a 7% increase from 2009, according to the report. It also found that growth in the “nourishers and anti-agers” category outpaced the general market, growing at 5%.
Market research firm The NPD Group also documented growth in prestige skin care. Its data finds that in the first half of 2011, total prestige skin care and makeup dollar sales in U.S. department stores surpassed pre-recession sales from the first half of 2008. The NPD report further states that “the star category for prestige skin care was sets and kits, with 56 percent growth compared to the first half of 2008.”
As the skin care market continues to meet the needs of its customers, it will turn to packaging to help clinch market share and capture brand loyalty. A strategic partnership between product and packaging is a winning one, say experts.
“The best piece of advice I could give [brands] would be to try to marry the package design with the product itself; align the brand and its marketing strategy to meet the specific demographics they are trying to reach with the appropriate packaging,” says Gadomski. “Packaging sells, so if you do it right, you can drive the attention to your brand that you are hoping for.”
