Learning at HBA Global Expo

To celebrate the 20th Anniversary of HBA Global Expo & Conference, a prestigious panel of leading

A prestigious panel of leading beauty innovators gathered to kick off the event.

beauty innovators gathered to kick-off the event on Tuesday, June 19th at 9:00 a.m. in the Special Events Hall of the Javits Center. “The Future of Beauty” session included moderator Jane Larkworthy, Beauty Director or W Magazine who led Deanna Kangas, president and CEO, Stila Cosmetics; Sonia Kashuk, make-up artist/ entrepreneur; Jim Markham, founder and CEO, ColorProof Evolved Color Care; and Catherine Walsh, senior vice president, Coty Prestige in a lively discussion of the next 20 years of beauty advancements and innovations.

Kashuk, whose brand has been in Target since 1999, noted that she focuses much of her attention on her brand and her goal has always been to offer the “best of the best” products at an affordable price. Coty’s Walsh agreed saying that value is a key driver and that a brand also must have a quality product, and the packaging and marketing have to be top-notch, too.

Markham pointed out that the product must fill an unmet consumer need, such as the PureOlogy Serious Colour Care, the first premium, line of products exclusively for color-treated hair, which he sold to L’Oreal in 2007. Recently he created the Colorproof Evolved Color Care line which is available in salons. “Brands must create a better product with better packaging and it must be a multi-tasker that offers something special,” he said.

That something special is often the wow factor. In addition to discussing Jennifer Lopez’s Glowing

The panel shared their thoughts on products that wow.

perfume bottle, which lights up when users spray it, Coty’s Walsh cited Sally Hansen’s Salon Effects nail polish strips as a recent beauty product that has impressed her. “That, for me, was a phenomenal product,” she said, citing the innovative application and the creativity of the product in general. “Self-expression is what it is all about.”

Design and engineering teams often need to come up with many ideas to discover the "right" one. At the “Unlocking Creativity in Packaging Innovation” session on Tuesday June 19th, cosmetic execs discussed what innovation truly means in today’s market and how exciting new innovations — like multifunctional component designs, rapid prototyping and 3D technology — will impact the industry in years to come. The session covered the latest packaging innovations, brand differentiation from ingredients to design, and future trends in color and design.

Topline’s Charles Chang moderated the session and advised attendees to talk with customers about their needs, understand them, and then innovate “from the outside in” as oppose to the “inside out.” He pointed out, “Innovation is the key to all successful business. New products plus value equal value to the consumer.” Since founding Topline 30 years ago, Chang has obtained more than 40 utility patents worldwide, and Topline has been recognized with awards in cosmetics packaging, including the IPDA (International Package Design Award) and the WorldStar Award for Packaging Excellence.

Revlon’s Senior Vice President New Product Support and Engineering John Butcher shared his tips on

Attendees gleaned insights from packaging experts.

building the best cross-functional innovation team. Decisions made by teams are always the best, he said. “Innovation always brings risk, so test over and over. Innovate but never lose sight of your consumer. This should be part of your test list.”

Philippe Bonningue, vice president luxury products division and cosmétique active development and technical package at L’Oréal (and a member of Beauty Packaging's Board of Advisors) noted a company must “believe in what you want to innovate, know you are the one to do and then exceed expectations. You must be a visionary to get there.”

Other participants included Hervé Bouix, senior vice president packaging, new ventures and special projects at Estée Lauder; Marta Wolska-Brys, packaging innovation leader, L’Oréal North America; and Guido Schmitz, head of packaging and technology innovation and global research and development at Bayer.

Beauty insiders updated attendees on this sizzling category. On Thursday June 21st, Kline & Co.’s Nancy Mills gave attendees a crash course in the men’s growing market, which has been really heating up in recent years. A new Kline & Co. study on the market will be released before the end of the year. She pointed out that key drivers in the market include:

• increasing numbers of male international buyers of luxury good including beauty items;
• a return to dressier male fashion;
• scents targeting younger men; and
• sports trends.

The men’s fragrance segment of this category had the most activity in 2011, while skin care poses great untapped opportunities, Mills said. Marketing using social media, humor, promotional and gift items, and those lines market as regimens continue to be popular. The approach to the male market should not be overtly feminine and instead should “speak their language.” Candace Chen of Facelube Automotive Men’s Skin Care line shared her insights on male-centric marketing and retailing in men’s focused arenas, such as auto body shops. “Men represent half of the global consumer population and the men’s skin care segment is far from saturated. The potential for growth is in fact outstanding for brands and retailers that are open to new strategies.” Michael Bruggeman, CEO of Organic Male OM4, wrapped up the session with details on the growing interest in the organic and anti-aging skin care male market.

Industry players highlighted multi-channel beauty trends. On June 19th at HBA Global Expo in New York,

At the show, industry players discussed multi-channel beauty trends.

industry players gathered at the “New Perspectives in Beauty Retailing” session to discuss key new trends in the multi-channel beauty shopping experience.

Ada Polla, founder and CEO of Alchimie Forever, moderated the session, which included speakers Jennifer Walsh, founder, For Love of Beauty; Susan Yara Dayalan, editorial director, Video & Interactive, NewBeauty at Fred Segal; Marcia Gaynor, GMM Beauty and Look Boutique, Duane Reade / Walgreens; and Jani Friedman, managing director, Demeter Group. Highlights included the increasing popularity of e-commerce, mobile retail products—such as roving beauty trucks, flash sales, pop-up stores, in-flight luxury beauty stores and more.

The conversation also discussed the latest news on the expanding Look Boutiques across the country. Gaynor noted the allure of the boutiques is that new products are rotating in all the time and trained beauty specialists are available to offer support. The Boutique features events, demos, and new premium products in a drug store setting.

New Beauty’s Yara Dayalan noted that online tools, such as blogs, YouTube, Facebook and Twitter, make products accessible to a wide consumer base and are good for sales. She added that raw, honest videos (not necessarily professional ones) are the most influential because they are “in the real woman voice and experience and they get noticed.”

Additionally, experts offered advice for brands to combat the recent trend of “show-rooming” in which young, savvy shoppers try products on in their favorite store and then go home and do internet research to purchase online at the best price. Friedman noted that it is key for retailers to recognize price is important to young consumers and develop ways “to keep people in your retail channels.”

At the “Social Influence in Skin Care & Beauty” session held on Wednesday, June 20th at HBA Global

Experts gave examples on how new media innovations have transformed the way consumers purchase beauty and skincare products.

Expo, industry insiders discussed how new media innovations have transformed the way consumers purchase beauty and skincare products. Through the new digital and social media landscapes beauty experts are at now the tip of consumer’s fingers (or click of the mouse) and peers are a main source of recommendations. The dynamic panel — which was moderated by Katie Welch, vice president of communications, Bliss; and included speakers Felicia Walker Benson, social media beauty director, Bergdorf Goodman and Editor in Chief, ThisThatBeauty; Rahul Mehendale, CEO, mySkin, and Stuart Schultz of DermTV.com — brought together a few of the new social influencers in skincare and beauty. “Social media depends on your business and objectives,” explained Dermtv.com’s Schultz. “Find what makes your company unique and then use the social media that best fits and start a conversation. Be authentic and realize this is a process that takes a lot of time to develop.”

The group offered other “golden rules”, including “fail early and fail fast” (it’s expensive to hang on to a dying proposition, said Mehendale); highlight the differentiating aspects of the brand, create content and tools to invite sharing in an organic and friendly way; and look to create multi-beneficial partnerships. “Brands must hone their voice and not lose it,” said Bliss’ Welch, who added the brand message must be consistent over multiple platforms. “Remember to explain the brand’s unique point of difference.”

Color communicates better than words. On the last day of the show, Firmenich’s Miranda Gordon and Laurie Pressman of Pantone took attendees on a sensorial journey of color at the “Color & Design Trends: Future Forecasting” session. Fragrance and color are living legends, always changing and moving, noted Gordon. “Color trends stimulate fragrance. Color communicates better than words,” she continued. “Color adds value and provides newness that retailers and customers are demanding.”

For example, many flanker fragrances use the original fragrance’s signature packaging but are designed with fresh on-trend colors. Up-and-coming colors include healthy natural greens, bright and patriotic blues, regal purples and jewel-tones, and a return to red (signifying power and confidence.)

Color is the spirit of the times, and it is weaved into the color and fragrance story thereby giving the customer what they are looking for when they are looking for it, explained Pantone’s Pressman. If the scent does not match the expectation suggested by the color, the consumer will be ultimately disappointed, Gordon added.