CEW Addresses Leadership Strategies

How do women in the beauty business become industry leaders?  What drives their passion?

These were the questions of the evening, as Cosmetic Executive Women presented its latest Beauty Insider Series discussion, held September 11, 2014, at the Union League Club of New York. The presentation, introduced by CEW Chairperson, Jill Scalamandre, focused on the career paths, highlights, and both professional and personal triumphs and challenges of two key industry leaders.

Gina Boswell, EVP, Personal Care North America, Unilever; and Claudia Poccia, President & CEO, Gurwitch Products, provided insights on strategic visions for successful teams, understanding today’s business environment, and incorporating life lessons into their career perspectives.

Boswell, who has been leading the multi-billion dollar Personal Care portfolio for Unilever North America, since 2011, oversees hair, skin, and deodorant categories. Formerly, as president, Global Brands for Alberto Culver, she oversaw all global brands, including Tresemmé, NeXXus, and St. Ives for the $3.7 billion market cap company, until it was acquired by Unilever. She held senior positions at Avon, Ford Motor Company, and The Estée Lauder Companies prior to joining Alberto Culver.

Claudia Poccia, president & CEO, Gurwitch Products, oversees a global luxury cosmetics and skincare enterprise best known for its Laura Mercier, Révive, and nyakio brands. Since joining the organization in 2011, she has established Gurwitch as one of the leading prestige beauty companies in the world. She has raised awareness of the brand in the U.S. and North America, while focusing on global expansion in Latin America and Asia. In 2013, she successfully launched the consortium’s third founder-driven luxury brand, nyakio.

Carlotta Jacobson noted, “These leaders know beauty firsthand and play vital roles in the growth of the industry.”

Poccia, known as a mentor in the cosmetics industry, has also built a career on giving back. In September 2012, she and Laura Mercier joined together to launch a life-saving mission to shine light on ovarian cancer, a disease that impacted both of them through the experiences of loved ones. The result, the Laura Mercier Ovarian Cancer Fund (LMOCF) is dedicated to raising awareness and funding research efforts to diagnose, treat, and support women with ovarian cancer.

Both of these dynamic women had a storehouse of knowledge and experience to share, not the least of which was their disarmingly non-linear pathway to success.

Boswell, who began her career in finance, went from working with The Estée Lauder Companies, and then with Ford Motor Company, only to return to Alberto Culver and the beauty world. She navigated the acquisition of Culver by Unilever, and despite what she termed “massive changes,” she recalls those pivotal moments as being key to her success. “I went from Ford to Avon and Lauder, but, whenever I was in a lot of change, I felt my career was really rising,” said Boswell.

Poccia, concurred, saying, “My path was not linear either,” noting her transition from supporting herself on the fragrance side of the business with L’Oréal, and then heading to Giorgio of Beverly Hills. “We were scrappers, we made things happen, but we were downsized and then I had the opportunity to learn the marketing business. Another restructuring came and I went to Lauder for eleven years,” she added. Poccia noted the opportunity she had at Avon to be innovative, citing this as a pivotal experience, and further emphasized the opportunity she received when she began her work with Gurwitch.

“Just when you think you’ve got it figured out, life has a different plan for you. During my time at Lauder, when I thought I was in line for a promotion, that I did not get, I got some great advice,” Poccia said. Her husband had told her, “Remember, grace under pressure, deliver, and dig in.” She wanted to share this message with the audience.

Non-Linear Leadership Strategies 

Boswell agreed, “Success is not always linear, but maybe it’s sideways.” She explained her particular style of leadership noting that sometimes, “It’s actually possible to lead from behind. What I mean is that as a consultant, the highest compliment is to have someone take your words and use them as a guide. In business there is certainly an opportunity to lead from behind, but what is key is that you lift while you climb. That is a natural way of developing people. Lifting people up can also help you attract the best people on your team. I think that’s the best way to lead, to lift people as you climb,” said Boswell.

Poccia stated, “In terms of senior leadership, the higher you go the more you depend on others; and your success is defined by how you bring your team along. I promise you, people will notice. You clearly are responsible for your own career experience, but wisdom around you is key. Having the right people around you is so important.” Both Boswell and Poccia emphasized the importance of mentors; and while noting there is no formula, Poccia said that she has consistently found willingness among people in the industry to answer questions and make themselves available to others seeking guidance.

“I’ve never gone to anyone and asked for help and had them say ‘no.’ Mentors transcend company affiliations. People have invested in your success. There are so many people that you have impacted and vice versa,” said Poccia. Boswell agreed, adding, “ If you’re very specific and ask someone for help, I’d be surprised if they said no.” Poccia alluded to a shift in industry perspective. “I don’t think it’s such a big deal anymore. I think everyone’s all in. There’s more of a comfort level in asking someone for help.”

Boswell acknowledged that “the smartest people ask for help. That’s the strongest and smartest thing you can be doing. You don’t get what you don’t ask for. Asking questions, networking, and being with people is so important.”

On Teamwork

“Having a cohesive team is so important,” said Poccia. “I’m ever so grateful to my team. The team is essential to see the vision come together. To watch the synergy of the team and see its bigger purpose of bringing all the skills together and creating that momentum, that good energy is invaluable. It cascades through your company. I believe if you look at what you need for the job and then you pick the right people, the ones you trust, then you can empower them, as well as hold them accountable.”

“To micro-manage is the silliest thing. It actually slows you down,” added Boswell. “Picking the right team is key. You can’t do it all by yourself and with the right team, you can let them row.”

Having the right skills are important for any business. However, Poccia stated that there are numerous “softer skills” that she looks for in her team. “Being smart, serious, collaborative, versatile, being nimble, and having a passion for what you do are very important.” Boswell added, “Deep curiosity is very important to me, not just competency, but I’m looking for potential. It’s so important to be able to look around the corner. If you’re not curious, you’re not going to stay current.”

Passion and Adventure Impact Perspective

“Anything that fills your passion, that fills you with energy, that is important,” said Boswell. “In addition, whatever takes the edge off and allows you to recover are also important overall,” Boswell said. “Be adventurous, try something new. We’re all so plugged in now that the ability to unplug is critical. You’re cluttered all the time, so whether it’s a physical release or something introspective, you need to unplug,” said Poccia. “Sometimes that means, ‘no WiFi’ – talk to each other,” Boswell said, recalling a sandwich board sign she had recently seen. “Yes,” said Poccia, “The interface is so rich. Talk to someone.”

Among the challenges facing young executives today is the speed at which business takes place. “Stay current, the speed is unbelievable,” said Boswell, noting that she and her team make a concerted effort to “read everything and see everything we can. I also am not embarrassed to ask questions.”

In response to a question about dealing with adversity, Poccia said, “Adversity can hit you professionally and personally at the same time. Coming into my new job and dealing with my younger sister’s ovarian cancer brought out things in me I didn’t know I had. You learn there’s always someone there. I got up and I moved through every hour, every day. Whether it’s personal or professional, ask for help, there’s always someone there. Stay grounded.”

“Being part of the sandwich generation, with aging parents and teenage children, sometimes you think it will break you,” said Boswell, who faced the challenges of an aging mother with Alzheimer’s and a teenager with an eating disorder. “But, the more you do, the more you can do. It speaks to the power of the human spirit. This unfortunately sometimes comes from a dark place,” said Boswell, who noted that the evening’s presentation took place on September 11, marking a terrible tragedy.

“Your career and your life are a journey,” said Poccia. “Go with it, enjoy the ride. It’s going to be okay. Trust yourself,” she said.

Boswell added, “If I knew then, what I know now, I would breathe more, sleep more, and wear more sunscreen! These are the secrets to aging well,” she said, adding “breathe, oxygen, and a perfect fragrance.” On attaining balance, both Boswell and Poccia claimed not to have figured out “the balance thing.” Boswell said, “I’m an oscillator, kind of catching the ball before it drops.”

In defining success, Boswell said, “nurturing your whole self and being fulfilled on all levels is the key. The fact that we contribute to a greater whole goes beyond material success, it is really the effect of what you do that matters.” Poccia noted that for her, her position with Laura Mercier and making a positive difference with the Laura Mercier Ovarian Cancer Fund is most satisfying. “What could be better than that?” said Poccia.

She added, “Did you make a difference today? And if you did, it’s a success. It could be a small difference in the day or something greater. At the end of the day do you feel good about yourself when you put your head on the pillow? Did I live, did I love, did I matter?” said Poccia.

Sponsors of the event were Shape, Givaudan, 24 Seven, Identipak, Edelman, Lord & Taylor, HCT Group, Yonwoo-PKG, Gotha, Beauty Inc, WWD, PIMS, Kaplow Communications, and RG3.0 & Partners. Additional information may be found at CEW's website.