Jamie Matusow, Editor-in-Chief03.26.24
Packaging expert and consultant, David Platt, has a broad range of experience in the plastics and packaging industry. He has authored over 50 market reports for Smithers on subjects including global packaging, rigid plastic packaging, PET packaging, flexible packaging, pouches, and caps & closures.
His latest market report for Smithers, “The Future of Reusable and Refillable Packaging to 2029,” considers the key packaging refill and reuse models and the market outlook to 2029. It examines how this market will change through to 2029 and where growth will come from; and when regulations on reusable and refillable packaging will be introduced across the world.
Jamie Matusow asked Platt if he could specifically relate these trends to how they will affect packaging in the Beauty industry?
Two takeaways: On the consumer side, Platt says, eco-responsibility and hygiene are simply not enough. For luxury brands, he says, there can be no compromises on design.
Jamie Matusow: What are the major challenges for refillable/reusable packaging specifically in the Cosmetics & Fragrance industry?
David Platt: Traceability, Product Characteristics, Economic Incentives and Function are all challenges.
—Traceability: In addition to hygiene-related regulatory constraints—and the very definition of container cleanliness, as well as the related responsibilities—there are other challenges to consider when developing reusable cosmetics packaging. Traceability is a challenge, as in the event of contamination, the product must be traceable along with its batch number.
—Product characteristics: Product characteristics must also be taken into account. A skincare product is going to be more vulnerable than a perfume with an alcoholic base, while the texture can generate technical problems linked to product flow. There are also new logistics processes to be put in place, particularly for returns, and constraints at points of sale.
—Economic incentives: On the consumer side, eco-responsibility and hygiene are simply not enough; economic incentives are key to conversion and it has to be a win-win situation for the customer. At Almathéa, for example, once a bottle has been purchased, consumers will pay €7.50 less for the 30ml format and €15 less for the 100ml format. At STELLA, the refill is sold for 20% less than the packaged product. Desirability—and even more so for luxury brands, there can be no compromises on design. Committed brands opt for aesthetically pleasing bottles and refill solutions.
—Function: Finally, there’s the functional aspect, if the reusable packaging concept is not made easy to use, customers won't buy the products.
JM: Can you provide some current examples of refillable and reusable cosmetics packaging?
DP: Stella McCartney, Maryll Beaux, Cozie and Aptar are all brands that encourage reuse.
—Stella McCartney: Stella McCartney’s vegan cosmetics brand was launched in September 2022. Its goal was to roll out the "re-use" system in the luxury sector. The packaging was designed around the refill. The design was inspired by the fountain pen, with the idea being to simply change the cartridge (the refill), without changing the pen (the bottle) or the nib (the pump).
There is one problem, however; there was no 100% recyclable, airless pump on the market. It’s not a single-material pump, so, with the support of LVMH, the brand developed a cleaning guide for users in order to avoid micro-bacterial contamination using alcohol.
—Maryll Beaux: Maryll Beaux addressed the issue of hygiene back in 2018 when she launched Amalthéa, a brand of refillable organic skincare. Maryll Beaux cleans, sterilizes, and refills the bottles in its laboratory, and then sends them back by mail to the customer.
—Cozie: Cozie, a French brand specializing in organic, refillable, and returnable glass cosmetics, offers its customers two options to encourage reuse: a deposit system that asks customers to return their bottles; or a bulk system that allows customers to fill their bottles in-store and choose the quantity they want. The bottles are washed at high temperatures before being disinfected and refilled.
—Aptar: Aptar developed Gaïa back in 2021: an airless system with a refill that is inserted through the bottom of a transparent outer casing. When the refill needs to be replaced, the pump, integrated into the external shell, can be detached and reused again. Made from PP/PE, the refill—which could also be made from glass—is 100% recyclable.
For more information please visit: https://www.smithers.com/services/market-reports/packaging/future-of-reusable-and-refillable-packaging-2029
His latest market report for Smithers, “The Future of Reusable and Refillable Packaging to 2029,” considers the key packaging refill and reuse models and the market outlook to 2029. It examines how this market will change through to 2029 and where growth will come from; and when regulations on reusable and refillable packaging will be introduced across the world.
Jamie Matusow asked Platt if he could specifically relate these trends to how they will affect packaging in the Beauty industry?
Two takeaways: On the consumer side, Platt says, eco-responsibility and hygiene are simply not enough. For luxury brands, he says, there can be no compromises on design.
Jamie Matusow: What are the major challenges for refillable/reusable packaging specifically in the Cosmetics & Fragrance industry?
David Platt: Traceability, Product Characteristics, Economic Incentives and Function are all challenges.
—Traceability: In addition to hygiene-related regulatory constraints—and the very definition of container cleanliness, as well as the related responsibilities—there are other challenges to consider when developing reusable cosmetics packaging. Traceability is a challenge, as in the event of contamination, the product must be traceable along with its batch number.
—Product characteristics: Product characteristics must also be taken into account. A skincare product is going to be more vulnerable than a perfume with an alcoholic base, while the texture can generate technical problems linked to product flow. There are also new logistics processes to be put in place, particularly for returns, and constraints at points of sale.
—Economic incentives: On the consumer side, eco-responsibility and hygiene are simply not enough; economic incentives are key to conversion and it has to be a win-win situation for the customer. At Almathéa, for example, once a bottle has been purchased, consumers will pay €7.50 less for the 30ml format and €15 less for the 100ml format. At STELLA, the refill is sold for 20% less than the packaged product. Desirability—and even more so for luxury brands, there can be no compromises on design. Committed brands opt for aesthetically pleasing bottles and refill solutions.
—Function: Finally, there’s the functional aspect, if the reusable packaging concept is not made easy to use, customers won't buy the products.
JM: Can you provide some current examples of refillable and reusable cosmetics packaging?
DP: Stella McCartney, Maryll Beaux, Cozie and Aptar are all brands that encourage reuse.
—Stella McCartney: Stella McCartney’s vegan cosmetics brand was launched in September 2022. Its goal was to roll out the "re-use" system in the luxury sector. The packaging was designed around the refill. The design was inspired by the fountain pen, with the idea being to simply change the cartridge (the refill), without changing the pen (the bottle) or the nib (the pump).
There is one problem, however; there was no 100% recyclable, airless pump on the market. It’s not a single-material pump, so, with the support of LVMH, the brand developed a cleaning guide for users in order to avoid micro-bacterial contamination using alcohol.
—Maryll Beaux: Maryll Beaux addressed the issue of hygiene back in 2018 when she launched Amalthéa, a brand of refillable organic skincare. Maryll Beaux cleans, sterilizes, and refills the bottles in its laboratory, and then sends them back by mail to the customer.
—Cozie: Cozie, a French brand specializing in organic, refillable, and returnable glass cosmetics, offers its customers two options to encourage reuse: a deposit system that asks customers to return their bottles; or a bulk system that allows customers to fill their bottles in-store and choose the quantity they want. The bottles are washed at high temperatures before being disinfected and refilled.
—Aptar: Aptar developed Gaïa back in 2021: an airless system with a refill that is inserted through the bottom of a transparent outer casing. When the refill needs to be replaced, the pump, integrated into the external shell, can be detached and reused again. Made from PP/PE, the refill—which could also be made from glass—is 100% recyclable.
For more information please visit: https://www.smithers.com/services/market-reports/packaging/future-of-reusable-and-refillable-packaging-2029
