Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Writer07.10.24
Fashion Institute of Technology’s (FIT) master’s program in Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management (CFMM), known as the “Beauty Industry’s Think Tank,” unveiled results from “The Future of Accessible Beauty,” its comprehensive Capstone research study, on June 26, 2024, at FIT’s Haft Auditorium.
The graduating class of 2024, which consists of professionals currently working in the beauty industry, presented their research and shared predictions of consumer behaviors, retail strategies, market potential, and ways in which brands may adapt for an inclusive and dynamic future beauty landscape.
The program was introduced by Class of 2004 alumni:
- Kate Foster, CEO and Co-Founder, The Outset
- Tennille Kopiasz, CEO, Frederic Fekkai and Bastide
- Larissa Jensen, SVP/Global Beauty Advisor, Circana
Related: FIT’s 2023 CFMM Graduates Survey the Global Beauty Landscape
Welcoming Remarks
Dr. Joyce F. Brown shared welcoming remarks, stating that the support of the former students for the growing program, makes her proud. “Each year their thoughtful insights continue to illuminate the industry,” said Dr. Brown. She highlighted the work of the current graduating class, emphasizing the impact of their research on elevating industry inclusivity across three realms, including Emotional Impact, Economic Consequences, and Social Impact.Dr. Brown noted several FIT milestones, including the honor of being named the first non-MBA degree-granting institution invited to the prestigious Executive Global MBA Council.
Turning to the Capstone research, she cited the work that has been done around diversity, and said, “There is still work to be done in the areas of accessibility, all to better serve a wide range of the population.”
She thanked the CFMM’s Founding Chair and Professor, Stephan Kanlian, noting their work together over the past 25 years, and thanked The Fragrance Foundation and Firmenich, whose scholarships, she said, “will bolster the talent and intellect of those who will help diversify the industry.”
Dr. Brown thanked event sponsor, Shiseido Americas for their support, and introduced Emmie Salaj, Global General Manager, Tory Burch Beauty, and COO of Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, Shiseido Americas. Salaj is a graduate of the CFMM Class of ’09.
Salaj presented the Shiseido Americas Innovation Award and introduced a video message from Ron Gee, CEO of Shiseido Americas. Gee acknowledged the thirty Shiseido Americas employees who had completed the CFMM program.
Gee congratulated a group of first year student Innovation Award recipients who created a functional fragrance known as “The Seed Project.” It is based on the microbiome and designed to address mental well-being. Its creators are Bari Blitzer, Chloe Lo, Brittany O’Leary, Ali Valentin, and Miranda Huang.
Related: FIT Grads Reveal New Findings About Beauty Consumers
FIT's 'Year of Living Magically'
Stephan Kanlian, Chair and Professor, CFMM, provided a presentation overview, focusing on consumers who are traditionally overlooked due to physical, emotional, social, or economic limitations.Kanlian noted the hallmarks of learning that took place within the class of 2024, including field study in Vietnam, Greece, India and Singapore. He also highlighted the opening of the FIT Beauty Center, saying:
“The Beauty Center at FIT is a collaborative industry/academic hub for consumer and business research with the beauty industry. We are proud to debut our first global research study that can utilize this new center for industry salons and roundtables that integrate the academic research into industry strategy.”
Thanking Dr. Joyce F. Brown, with whom he interviewed twenty-five years ago, Professor Kanlian acknowledged a remarkable journey of collaboration and growth at FIT.
The content and environment surrounding the class of 2024 contributed to what he called, “The year of living magically,” and with the opening of the new Beauty Center, said, “I am speechless to see my dreams for the program come through.”
Photos above:
- Victoria Healey, Global Product Development, Fresh/LVMH
- Deja Stephens, Manager, Global Social and Influencers, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, The Estée Lauder Companies
- (L-R) Stephan Kanlian, chair and professor of FIT's CFMM program; Robin Burns-McNeill, chair, FIT Board of Trustees and co-founder of Batallure Beauty; Dr. Joyce F. Brown, President of FIT
- Erica Roberson, VP of DE&I at L’Oréal and FIT's CFMM Class of 2013 accepted the Coty Award for Professional Excellence
- Michael Bowes, SVP of Global Talent, ELC, presented the Faculty Leadership Award to Karen Young, Adjunct Instructor, FIT's CFMM and CEO of The Young Group
- Maclean Liotta, Beauty Marketing, Chanel
Capstone Presentations: 3 Realms of Inclusivity
Part 1, Emotional Impact & Physical Accessibility
Presented by:
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Shiyin Lin, Digital Marketing Manager, Travel Retail Integrated Marketing, The Estée Lauder Companies
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Maclean Liotta, Beauty Marketing, Chanel
While considerable research has been done around diversity in skin tones, body types, genders, and ages, there is a demographic that remains underrepresented, that is: 15-20% of the global population identified as neurodiverse or people with disabilities (PWD).
Student research revealed that with $13 trillion spending power, inclusion is not just a moral imperative, but a lucrative opportunity for growth in the beauty industry.
They cited the importance of product design, omnichannel sales, and marketing strategies, and shared relevant findings including: 65% of people with disabilities face inaccessible packaging issues; visually impaired consumers require help in reading products; and neurodiverse consumers have other needs, including limited dexterity.
They noted that easy open caps, as seen in Fenty’s packaging and Rare Beauty by Selena Gomez, are examples of brands that offer thoughtful packaging experiences for everyone, including those with limited dexterity.
Marketing strategies cited included color-coded shopping baskets, currently seen in Sephora in Europe, which indicate shoppers needing assistance; using durable, shatter-resistant materials and high-contrast colors; and the use of tactile symbols to provide accessible elements for in-store navigation. Changes in lighting and signage would also significantly improve the retail in-store experience.
“Marketing strategies must be authentic, recognizing the impact of language in the marketing process,” said students.
Many opportunities to embrace diversity and inclusion in the beauty industry exist, and meeting the needs of people with disabilities requires a multifaceted approach across all brand functions.
Whether needs are neurological, physical, or sensory, changes in product design, omnichannel sales, and marketing, are critical to inclusivity. Capstone research also encouraged the development of inclusive workplace policies and education across all functions to create a supportive environment for all people, enriching organizational culture and spurring innovation.
Related: FIT Capstone Research Looks At Transparent Beauty
Part 2: Economic Consequences of 'Beauty Deserts'
Presented by Group Leaders:
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Shivani Banerji, Director, Redken Styling, L’Oréal USA
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Sabina Gosto Dersh, Assistant VP, Cleansers and Makeup Removers, Métier, L’Oréal Research and Innovation
These geographic areas present a challenge to millions of consumers in the United States. According to student research, in the US alone, 121 million consumers live in healthcare deserts and nearly 54 million in food deserts. This lack of access to essential goods carries over to deserts that exist within beauty.
Fundamental beauty products, including soap, shampoo, skincare and sun care products are often inaccessible for those living in particular areas.
Students found 43% of consumers sacrifice household goods to buy fundamental beauty products; and consumers of color say they are not able to find the products they need within reach. “If consumers are out of options, brands can’t win with market share,” they said. Student research revealed that, “Today, deserts are a pressing macroeconomic phenomenon affecting consumers across critical sectors.”
Opportunities exist to reach these consumers with beauty products and services, and serve consumers of all socioeconomic strata.
To address the challenges, students suggested the beauty industry navigate the three factors that define the challenge of deserts: excessive distance and time spent traveling for beauty products and services, high costs in acquiring these products, and sparse assortment and availability of products that meet consumer needs.
The group suggested the creation of “hyperhubs,” that are placed in accessible distribution beauty outposts, whether vending machines, or specific beauty outposts, that can be placed where consumers need them.
Taking inspiration from Mobile Health Solutions, the students referred to the creation of a Beauty Relief Fleet, where dermatology, healthcare, baby care products and more, can provide access for communities of all strata. “Brands must re-envision their traditional distribution, pricing, and investment strategies to create lasting change, reach overlooked consumers, and solve for this estimated $10 billion opportunity.” They urged beauty brands to “step up, adapt, and prioritize.”
Part 3: Social Accessibility & Social Impact
Presented by:
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Sanam Gidwani, Sr. Manager, Brand Marketing at Parfums Christian Dior, LVMH
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Shelby Newell, Sr. Global Brand Marketing Manager, e.l.f. Cosmetics
Students found that from puberty to menopause and beyond, women contend with hormonal fluctuations that lead to beauty concerns which are often unmet. Their research revealed that, “Despite the growing convergence of wellness and beauty, women’s holistic hormonal needs are often sidelined, perpetuating feelings of neglect and invisibility.”
Students stated that in 1977, the FDA banned women from clinical trials. It took two decades for the US to reverse this decision, and by then, the damage was done. Increasing funding for women’s health would provide big returns for families, businesses, and the economy, and said, “Simply put, better women’s health leads to a better society.”
The group advocated for proportional health care funding for men and women, noting that McKinsey estimates that by 2040 closing the health gap could boost the global economy by $1 trillion annually, confirming that, “Women’s health investment is not just better science, it is a better investment in the long term.”
Students found that women’s health is often reduced to sexual health, leaving hormonal health underfunded. Citing brand disparity in the market, they said that Rogaine (minoxidil), is expected to be a $2.4 billion men’s hair loss industry, but challenged anyone to name a single brand dedicated to alleviating women’s post-partum hair loss.
Beauty is a $532 billion global industry, with over half of women globally regularly using beauty products. The group's proprietary research found 72% of women believe that beauty brands should support women’s health initiatives, and 7 out of 10 women feel underserved, misrepresented, and neglected by the industry meant to serve them.
As a result, women are self-educating. They concluded, “Failing to address women’s hormonal needs overlooks our society’s responsibility and disregards a major financial opportunity.”
The current US beauty market, (according to Nielsen), is worth $97 billion, however, it is increasingly intertwined with wellness. Including supplements ($21 Billion), Candles and Fragrance Oils ($2 Billion), Functional Beverages ($9 billion), and Personal Health ($12 billion), the market represents a $141 billion opportunity in the US.
In addition, 95% of women want the link between wellness and external beauty addressed. Consumers have shifted priorities to include supplements in their beauty routines, and external beauty has become increasingly linked with wellness, a shift that calls for recognition.
Students advocated for bridging the gap between beauty and wellness by emphasizing accessible education, products, and research tailored to women’s comprehensive holistic well-being.
The group concluded, that “Considering hormonal health in product development, research, and education is integral to the needs of women across different life stages; and supporting women’s holistic well-being would enable seamless integration into a woman’s lifelong journey, and foster authentic relationships.”
The Awards Ceremony
Dr. Brooke Carlson, Interim Dean, School of Graduate Studies, FIT congratulated Professor Stephan Kanlian on “twenty-five years of remarkable achievement” and presented him with a special plaque on behalf of FIT. She then introduced the Scholarship Recognition Award and the Outstanding Scholar Award.The Scholarship Recognition Award honorees are:
- Maclean Liotta, Beauty Marketing, Chanel
- Shiyin Lin, Digital Marketing Manager, Travel Retail Integrated Marketing, The Estée Lauder Companies
The Outstanding Scholar Award winner is:
- Shivani Banerji, Director, Redken Styling, L’Oréal USA
The Coty Award for Professional Excellence, presented by Debbie Erickson, General Manager, Luxury and Consumer Beauty Divisions, Coty USA is:
- Erica Roberson, Vice President, DE&I, Professional Products Division, L’Oréal, Class of 2013. Roberson's creation of “The Texture of Change” initiative has amplified education in the textured hair arena.
The Estée Lauder Companies Faculty Leadership Award winner, presented by Michael Bowes, Senior Vice President, Global Talent, The Estée Lauder Companies, is:
- Karen Young, Adjunct Instructor, and CEO, The Young Group
The L’Oréal Student Leadership Award, presented by David Greenberg, CEO of L’Oréal U.S. and the former Chairperson of the CFMM Industry Advisory Board, is:
- Sabina Gosto Dersh, Assistant Vice President, Cleansers and Makeup Remover Métier, L’Oréal Research and Innovation
The Department Medal honoree, presented by Corey Moran, Head of Industry, Fashion and Luxury, Google/Adjunct Professor of CFMM/Secretary of the FIT Foundation Board, is:
- Maclean Liotta, Beauty Marketing, Chanel
A reception hosted by Shiseido Americas in honor of the Class of 2024, followed the award presentation.
Congratulations to all the grads!
