The current skin care stars are nourishers/anti-agers and their unique packages.
Global spend on skin care reached US$88 billion in 2010, an increase of 2% in real terms. The biggest
Dr. Benjamin Punchard |
category in packaging unit terms is body care reaching just over 3 billion units in 2010, followed by facial care at just under. However the star of the show has been nourishers/anti-agers, showing the best performance in 2010, growing at 5% in value and 4% in unit volume terms.
Function or Style?
Though the poor economy has hampered growth of nourishers/anti-agers in North America, Western Europe has remained a positive market with strong growth. With efficacy being the core selling point brand owners are increasingly offering advanced functional formulations. As such the core role of packaging must be to protect these active ingredients, which has provided strong opportunities for airless lotion pumps that reduce the chance of oxidation. These pumps also provide convenient product dosing, giving consumers confidence that they are not over-using the product. This positive positioning for pumps has grown share for bottles at the expense of jars and tubes. With consumers in Western Europe expecting almost pharmaceutical results from anti-aging skin care products the packaging, while being attractive, has focused on clean lines, unfussy text and simple coloring that suggests a clinical source.
However across the world in the Asia Pacific region aesthetics plays a greater role, with brighter colours, surface textures and more apparent shaping. For example in May 2010 Shanghai Jahwa United Co Ltd. introduced limited edition packaging for the Herborist brand in green bottles that come together and replicate the symmetry of the yin-yang symbol. Another example is The History of Fu from South Korea also launched in May of last year. This is the most expensive product in the oriental herbal skin care range of LG Household & Health Care. This cream type facial moisturiser is packaged in an elegant jar made with acrylic plastic that is light like plastic but looks like a glass with an attractive gold closure. Although the packaging and the brand reputation has attracted consumer attention, its high price of Won90,000 puts this out of range for the majority of women.
This desire for attractive and feminine packaging isn’t just restricted to the developing markets of the
A core role of skin care packaging is to protect sensitive ingredients. |
region. For example in Japan in September of 2010 Kao Sofina launched the facial moisturiser Sofina Jenne. The bottle is elegantly decorated with a time-honored "lace" pattern. According to the company, this image suggests beautiful, moisturized skin observed through the lace, reinforcing the brand message of "Gently embracing your precious skin." The youthful, simple design is aimed at women in their 20s, illustrating a feeling of fresh hydration with gentle pastel colors and a translucent package texture.
Applicators Add ValueA trend that has been gaining momentum in skin care is the use of packaging that doubles up as an applicator. For example, since its introduction to the market by L’Oreal’s Garnier in 2008, eye roll-on applicator packaging can now be found in number of brands such as Nivea and Maybelline. Garnier is again leading the way with the launch in June 2010 of a “cellulite crusher roll-on.” This textured roll-on is part of the Skin Naturals body tonic range and, according to the company, gently massages the skin to ensure optimum penetration exactly where it is needed. The application system has been patented by L’Oreal, perhaps hoping to avoid the copy-cat packaging that has appeared since their eye roll-on innovation.
Asia Pacific Drives GrowthGrowth in the developed markets of North America and Western Europe is expected to stagnate, struggling to achieve a CAGR of 2% between 2010 and 2014. It is Asia Pacific that will lead the way with China, India and Indonesia providing the greatest unit gains. With low per capita consumption in these markets there are opportunities for growth with both low cost packaging solutions such as single serve sachets, as well as the expensive and highly decorated packaging that typifies the premium end of skin care in this region.
Dr. Benjamin Punchard is head of packaging research at Euromonitor International.