Innovate for Beauty's Sake

HCT says its patented “cool-to-touch” applicator “has reinvigorated the treatment segment of our industry.”

Even in a sluggish economy, Apple stores can’t keep up with demand for the iPad 2 and the iPhone 4S. While personal budgetary cutbacks may focus on fewer trips to the mall or streamlined vacations, innovative electronics continue to attract consumers hooked on new, cool, functional devices in attractive packages.

The same is true in the beauty industry, where a captivating bottle or carton—combined with an efficacious formula and a delightful application experience—give consumers a “gotta have it” gut reaction.

Philippe Bonningue, Vice President Corporate Development & Packaging L’Oréal North America

We frequently hear the word innovation used when it comes to products and packaging that trigger this type of response. While the descriptor may be used in reference to a bottle that touts a leafy floral cap or a carton that showcases a 3D holographic design, it also calls out products that go further than the outright appearance of the packaging.

So what criteria define an innovative package? Is the consumer always aware of the innovation? What role does the packaging supplier play in moving the concept forward? What are some recent products that illustrate the concept?

To hone in, we asked beauty industry experts in packaging, education, market analysis and brand manufacturing to share their thoughts on innovation to not only define where we are today, but to provide an inside look at where creative beauty products and packaging are headed in the future.

What’s New

Marianne Rosner Klimchuk, Associate Chairperson/Packaging Design Dept. FIT

Like with the Apple products mentioned, consumers continue to be intrigued with mobile gadgets, prompting some beauty brands to create battery-driven packaging or componentry that resembles small, handheld electronics. For instance, mobile phone designs have influenced products from cosmetics compacts to fragrance—such as that for the wildly successful Givenchy Play. Electronic devices continue to make inroads into beauty with rotating applicators, airbrush tools and skin care systems. These launches identify one of two trends labeled earlier this year by Mintel as innovative. Dubbed “bionic,” this trend recognizes the science side of beauty.

Hinako Sugioka Israel, the research group’s senior consultant, beauty innovation, says “Bionic beauty encompasses beauty gadgets as at-home alternatives to professional skin care treatments using technology borrowed from other fields as well as beauty devices for on-the-go hydration treatments.” The use of special applicators and packaging with

Henry Renella, SVP Global Package Development The Estée Lauder Companies

built-in tools eases application or produces deeper-acting results. “Overall,” says Israel, “bionic beauty products offer more fun, innovative, and attractive, unique packaging to the market.”

The second overriding innovative beauty trend noted by Mintel is what it calls “Down to Earth,” which Israel says, “manages price pressure due to varying supply and demand of natural raw materials; masters challenges of green chemistry; balances natural and organic certifications; and from a market perspective, simplifies text to tell straightforward stories of plant-based ingredients.” For Down to Earth trends, Israel says brands use sustainable packaging, bioplastics or reusable packaging to minimize waste.

With products and packaging ranging from battery-operated mascara brushes to containers that biodegrade, the definition of innovative packaging is truly vast, but to give a brand a true advantage, innovation 

Hinako Sugioka Israel, Senior Consultant, Beauty Innovation Mintel

in packaging design needs to go beyond inventiveness intended only to attract consumer attention.

Marianne Rosner Klimchuk, associate chairperson/packaging design department, Fashion Institute of Technology, says, “Innovative packaging may attract the consumer to make an initial purchase.

However, ultimately the product must live up to the expectations set by the packaging design in order to create brand loyalty. The packaging design should not be in the position of over-delivering on a product’s failed or under-delivered promise.”

Clinique’s Repairwear Laser Focus bottle took advantage of a new process for over molding using Surlyn for the outer bottle. The pearlized inner bottle in combination with the Surlyn outer gives a unique look of translucency and luxury. The decoration is also on the inside bottle eliminating decoration issues, and gives a unique depth in the appearance of the package.

Beauty Brand Experts Weigh In

Innovative packaging features reign supreme in efforts to attract attention and win consumer loyalty, but the focus often varies depending on the individual brand and how in tune it is with its customers.

At The Estée Lauder Companies, Henry Renella, senior vice president for global package development, says, “Innovation is extremely important—it is the soul of our company, but innovation also plays a key role in the uniqueness of our individual brands and brand packaging teams.” He says this provides package innovators with the opportunity to create in many different ways. “It’s important to understand what makes a loyal consumer tick and create the perfect package that is in line with the DNA of the brand and the consumer,” adds Renella. “We are always looking at how we can introduce something new and exciting.”

At L’Oréal, Philippe Bonningue, vice-president of corporate development & packaging—North America, says, “Innovation is a powerful way to attract more customers through unique differentiation, while also contributing to the high quality standards that are consistent with all L’Oréal products.” Meanwhile, he says, innovation can mean completely different things depending on your perspective. “It can be ‘just something new on the shelf” for some brands, or it can be a novel detail in the technical design of a component that the packaging engineer created [and protected with a patent].”

When striving to create an innovative package, many brands aim to solve a particular need.

Development also depends on the channel of distribution and whether it targets the mass or prestige market—and increasingly, whether it includes a sustainability feature.

Renella believes that an innovative package should always solve a need in a creative way—whether that need is consumer, regulatory or necessary to the product itself. Creativity, he says, is what transforms a simple invention into a marketable innovation. “Our goal is to always deliver creative solutions that will give our brands a competitive advantage and delight the consumer.”

Topline’s package for Almay’s Intense i-color Smoky-i-kit makes users feel like they have their own makeup artist at home.

How does the prestige market view innovative packaging? How does it affect consumer purchases?

Renella responds: “It is my personal opinion that innovation just for the sake of introducing something new will not work in the prestige arena. We pay close attention to making sure innovation is in line with brand image.” He says this presents a myriad of opportunities and options when innovating, and also sometimes presents challenges in the types of materials the company is looking for—especially when it comes to innovative sustainable packaging.

At L’Oréal, the priority is for innovative packaging to be accessible and affordable for the channel of distribution in which it’s sold. Bonningue says, “There is no need to innovate if it’s unaffordable.” Following this criterion, he says they cover a wide range of different innovative approaches while developing a new product, including creating an additional attractive feature (such as shape, finish, aesthetics, decoration); anticipating regulatory expectations (highly protective packaging for sensitive formula); transforming the performances of the product or the way the consumer will use it; and, of course, meeting new emerging markets requirements. Bonningue says, “The notion of affordability is a challenge per se in these new markets where innovative thinking is the solution.”

Cosmogen’s Shake’n Powder jar contains an exclusive and patented dispenser for controlled release of loose powder.

Both Renella and Bonningue agree that often, the consumer is not even aware of what the package or product innovation is—they may just love the way it looks or how it functions.

Bonningue says innovations such as shape, decoration or protection are “visible” to the consumer and influence the selection of the product they buy. “Many of the other innovations we work on are not visible to the consumer,” he says, “but are part of the benefits he/she will take back (such as new processes to make the package faster, lighter, use less materials, etc.).

Technical design innovation can be difficult to detect, according to Bonningue. “This doesn’t mean that we failed; on the contrary, it means that the innovation is so well integrated into the package that it is indistinguishable to the user, and then it is a real success in terms of a user-friendly approach. Of course, when the innovation is claimed as a feature of the product, then it appears obvious to the consumer.”

Renella agrees: “Consumers do not have to easily recognize an innovation in their packaging. They don’t need to understand the reasons of why or how something works. It’s more important that we make their experience using our products something special.”

Innovation in makeup, says L’Oréal’s Bonningue, “is about designing the right tool for the makeup results to be achieved at an artist-level.” He points to Maybelline’s Instant Age Rewind with its flocked-foam eraser applicator as an example.

Innovative Packaging Suppliers

Suppliers, too, who are at the heart of developing innovative packaging solutions, need to focus on real applications, new gestures and changing the way consumers use beauty products, and not just develop packaging for a new look alone. In addition to form and function, sustainability continues to be an area with great potential for innovative advancement.

Like Bonningue, John Pyrzenski, sales director, HCT Packaging, notes that packaging innovation can take many paths. “Innovation can be as substantial as redefining a delivery system or as minimal as a functional or aesthetic change to existing packaging. It all is predicated on the consumer experiencing newness in their routine,” he says.

Whatever the innovative packaging idea, it needs a starting point, whether it is the brand, a material or a technology concept. At Albéa, Maria Viegas, creative and innovation marketing director, says innovative packaging always comes from a specific element, one idea. “It can start,” she says, “when we detect special expectations from consumers during our workshop sessions, a new material with incredible abilities, using a technology never used before in cosmetics, a creative concept from our network of experts (makeup artists, designers, engineers) or a specific need from a local cultural habit from consumers.”

Sandra Hutson, sales and marketing director Topline Products, comments that while consumers are addicted to the new and crave the next best thing, package development must follow a practical approach. She says, “We don’t just look at trends and slavishly follow them, but seek instead real, innovative solutions in the product/package development process.”

At Topline, Hutson says an innovative package represents advancement in technology, design or function, or a new way of using traditional designs or manufacturing methods. It can be either an overall concept or refer to a specific element of the packaging. She says, “Today’s consumer is always looking for something new—a new way of application that makes their lives easier, a new ingredient that will give faster results, a new design that will add value to a product.”

Photo: Bon Duke Joya Candle Tells a Story The new Army Project Double Candle from Joya succeeds as a product that tells a complete story through its packaging. Camouflage is one of my favorite textile patterns, so when I unwrapped the olive green paracord that bound a chic printed swatch of the multi-hued khaki fabric, I couldn’t believe it got even better. A slightly battered vintage British Army soap dish stamped 1945 opened to reveal twin candles (one in each half) each with twin wicks—in complementary shades of army green (Dusk) and khaki (Dawn). What’s more, the product information is printed directly on the British-issue, hand-tailored camouflage pocket square. Only 100 of the candles were produced, and each fabric wrap is hand-numbered. Simplicity and innovation at its finest, perfectly meshed with a message.

When it comes to developing innovative packaging Glenn Scott, vice president product development and strategic sourcing, Berlin Packaging, says they aim for “one that ideally brings both a functional enhancement and aesthetic design benefit to the end user.” Ideally, he says, “an innovative package provides a new solution to a current packaging problem.” Examples are dispensers without springs, and balls that eliminate rust and contamination of personal care products.

“Innovative packaging reflects the expectations of all stakeholders,” according

Photo Finish Compact The latest packaging innovation from Lombardi Design & Manufacturing “captures” beauty consumers’ passions for sleek, electronic-like gadgets, portability and most importantly, personalization. Captures, in the sense that the compact displays a 3.5-in. x 5-in. photograph. Consumers can personalize the compact by loading it with their favorite picture. For the launch, Philosophy designed a beautifully decorated border on the clear sliding cover, giving the impression of a picture frame—hence the Photo Compact. Before the at-home personalization takes place, the Photo Compact offers the unique marketing ability to include printed inserts—a very cost-effective way to include multi-color artwork, how-to sheets, and additional promotions. This kit-like compact features a palette of colors, in seven wells—in addition to two applicators and a mascara—sure to satisfy makeup needs for a day, a week or a month. At home or on the road, having your favorite photo nearby is sure to put a smile on your face—the final touch when applying makeup.

to Denis Richard Orliange, general manager for Cosmogen. “It meets the technical requirements of the brands that want to package their formula safely and economically. Additionally, it must bring an added value either for the brand, the formula or the consumer. It can either provide the formula with more protection, the consumer with an easier way of application or the brand with an upper perception value of the product.”

Added Value Packaging

With makeup artist brands all the rage, many brands and suppliers are looking for innovative ways to help consumers achieve their
own professional results at

Guerlain Turns Packaging Upside Down According to Guerlain, its new skin care product, Orchidée Impériale Longevity Concentrate, 10 years in the making, demanded packaging that met its highest standards. To hold the precious IOME molecules until they are released, and to deliver them to the skin at the peak of their effectiveness, Guerlain pulled out the stops on innovation and ingenuity, which drove the design of the revolutionary patent-pending capsule-bottle. The “blue chamber” protects the formula, while a simple press of the pushbutton (which hides the retractable nozzle and the airless system hidden inside) releases the IOME, with its maximum molecular force. In a departure from the expected, the bottle is held vertically, upside-down. The bold design of the blue and gold capsule-bottle and its long, horizontal form provide a futuristic modernity to the luxe aesthetics associated with Guerlain. The premium carton, stamped with the orchid signature, provides extra details, including ribbons, a velvet travel pouch and application instructions.

home.

For example, Topline created a package that instinctively shows the consumer how to create the perfect smoky eye. When they designed the Almay Intense i-color Smoky-i-kit, Hutson says they used “an innovative visual design and a unique filling process to replicate the lid, crease and brow bone so that you could see exactly where to apply each shade—almost like having your own built-in makeup artist at home.”

Perfect for Chocoholicks Reaching into your purse for a package of Chocoholicks lipglosses from Jane Iredale is almost as satisfying as retrieving a decadent chocolate bar. You get the rich look and even the mouth-watering aroma, but none of the calories. The Sugar and Spice Holiday Collection features four flavors presented in a palette that resembles a beautifully packaged gourmet chocolate bar—a rich brown with gold foil edges and print. The slide-out compact includes a retractable lip brush for precise application and clean storage. The streamlined design is lipgloss-smacking good.

Consumers who want to be assured of getting just the right amount of loose powder for each use will benefit from Cosmogen’s Shake’n Powder jar, which contains an exclusive and patented dispenser for controlled release. Not only is it attractive, with a mirror on top, Orliange says, “It also respects industrial constraints.” Added features include a totally hermetic snapped bottom part, and the waterproof jar also preserves delicate formulas.

According to Pyrzenski, HCT’s patented “Cooling Tip” delivery system has had “a resounding acceptance both by manufacturers and end-use consumers.”He says the “cool-to-touch” applicator provides instant comfort and relief as well as a frictionless glide sensation. “It is perceived as both luxury and clinical,” he says, “and can be partnered with a variety of formulations targeting comforting, corrective and therapeutic solutions.”It is offered in a variety of stock tip shapes and options for alternative tip materials and delivery systems, and according to Pyrzenski, “has reinvigorated the treatment segment of our industry.”

The ecobottle, from Berlin Packaging, uses 70% less plastic than traditional plastic bottles, and can be used for a variety of applications.

Sustainability Comes into Play

Sustainability continues to play an increasing role in innovative packaging with many suppliers making great strides in this area to meet consumers’ demands and brands’ needs. (For more on the overlap of innovation and sustainability, please see the Luxe Pack Monaco review in this issue and online at www.beautypackaging.com.)

When it comes to differentiating between the two design principles, Bonningue says he sees a big difference between being innovative and being sustainable. He says, “You can choose to be innovative or not, but you have no choice but to be ‘sustainable’ in the development of new products.”

He adds, “Being sustainable requires a lot of creativity, passion and energy (the renewable one). This creative spirit can lead to achieving the same quality while reducing the quantity of materials, removing useless parts of the components and bringing suppliers closer to the point of use to reduce transportation costs.”

Mitchell S. Kaneff, chairman/CEO, Arkay Packaging, has helped clients develop a number of innovative trends of late regarding sustainable packaging. One trend, for example, is toward more lightweight packaging. He says several companies are going down two points, from 18-point SBS to 16-point SBS. “This,” he says, “reduces the weight the trucks are carrying, resulting in less gas needed to carry the products to market.”

The Frederic Fekkai set-up box, which Arkay produced, features a textured, linen-type embossed outer package, with a gold label, vellum printed material, and a bellyband.“The most interesting part,” says Kaneff, “is that from an innovative standpoint, we used a paperboard inner cell to hold the products in place. It is all paperboard and recyclable and from a cost and lead-time standpoint, the savings are exceptional.”The entire box is also a keepsake as a magnet keeps the cover closed.

One of Albea’s recent blends of innovation and sustainability is evidenced in the tubes they launched with L’Occitane. The eco-friendly design uses a minimum of 50% PCR material in the sleeve and head of the tube, and is combined with what the supplier calls “smart applicators” and a high quality of decoration.

At Berlin Packaging, Scott tells Beauty Packaging, “We’ve worked with a number of worthy new innovations this year.” These, he says, include packages that appeal to the senses using flavored and scent-infused resins, such as a bottle for a seasonal bath care product that smells like cinnamon and a push-pull water cap that tastes like mint when you drink from a bottle of unflavored water. “Packages that are more environmentally friendly and/or prolong product freshness are also popular,” he says.

Scott describes a current package that provides a glimpse of what the future holds as far as packaging innovations that combine with sustainable practices.

“The hottest new package we are working on with clients is the ecobottle,” says Scott. This package has a fiber outer molded shell that can be formed in many different shapes similar to those of plastic bottles, and contains an inner pouch and closure system to hold the product inside. Scott says these bottles use 70% less plastic than traditional plastic bottles. The shells are made from recycled cardboard and newspapers and can be split apart after use and sent for recycling or composting. The inner bag is also separated and can be recycled with products such as plastic grocery bags. “We have received many inquiries for this bottle for a broad variety of end use applications,” says Scott.

Future Directions

FIT’s Klimchuk also notes the innovative use of scent in areas other than pure fragrance, and urges fragrance manufacturers to broaden their horizons for future applications.

“I think that if the manufacturers of fragrance do not push the packaging design to be more innovative, they are going to lose significant market share,” she says. Scent is becoming part of the design of objects, says Klimchuk, who cites as examples the new Lacoste flash drive that diffuses fragrance into the environment and the new concepts in aroma sticks as in-home accent lights. “With the growing value of sustainability, packaging design in the beauty sector needs to shift from the purely decorative,” she emphasizes. “Consumer demand for functionality, material reduction or value added will continue to grow.”

Albéa’s Viegas predicts that there will be three main innovative trends to watch in 2012: an increase in professional tools adapted to consumer use to bring the makeup artist to the home and bring the spa to people’s bathroom; eco-design, because consumers are more mindful about packaging consumption and brands are acting to reduce the environmental impact of their products; and practicality and nomadism because consumers are always on the go and need packaging adapted to their way of life.

Topline, too, has a vision for future innovative packaging that will match consumers’ demands with brands’ goals. Hutson says: “The consumer’s demand for added value, multi-functional, time-saving, customizable and compact/mobile products is expected to continue to impact packaging in the future. Many consumers will also crave an escape from normality to a fantasy world generating interest in more extraordinary and far-out designs and packaging concepts.”

These “futuristic” packaging designs, she says, using technologies such as rapid prototyping and special finishes, for example, will be needed to satisfy the desire for unusual and offbeat concepts. “Sensorial finishes such as ‘soft-touch’ and eye-catching graphics,” adds Hutson, “are trends we see more and more of—part of the technology-driven trends in the digital age—what we at Topline call ‘wired for beauty.’ ”