Trends Forecast

Hard Candy’s Megawatt Smile combines teeth whitener and “whitening” lipcolor in one package.

Three packaging trends seem to be leading the way in 2013. Here, I’ll take a brief look at the areas: Function & Efficacy; Bifurcation: Luxury & Mass; and Sustainability.

Function & Efficacy

More sophisticated and technologically advanced formulas are demanding a higher level of function from packaging.

It may be in the form of duo chamber packaging combining foundation and concealer, concealer and highlighter, two levels of moisturization (such as in Body Shop’s Body Butter Duo) or teeth whitener and “whitening” lipcolor (such as Hard Candy’s Megawatt Smile).

Visoanska has combined topical skin care with ingestible skin supplements housed in the same package.

Visoanska has combined topical skin care with ingestible skin supplements housed in the same package.

Airless containers are now available in oval and square designs, single- and double-wall bottles with and without base plates, collars and over caps. These pumps function with a wide variety of textures and viscosities.

Bifurcation: Distinction Through Packaging

Whether for prestige or mass markets, packaging is being utilized to draw attention to products.

A great deal of luxury cosmetic packaging could pass itself off as fine jewelry, art or unique interior decoration.

By Kilian Perfume as an Art is one. Kilian Hennessey, the grandson of the founder of the LVMH group, grew up in the luxury world. He has created a line of exotic fragrances in elegant, luxurious packaging. He believes, “True luxury should never be thrown away. It can be passed on from one generation to another. All Kilian bottles are reusable and refillable, making the brand a true statement of eco-luxury.”

OroGold 24K Deep Day Moisturizer showcases the ultimate in luxury packaging.

OroGold 24K Deep Day Moisturizer has a tiny magnet in the closure of the secondary packaging for an automatic seal. The package also contains a booklet certifying the quality of the gold used in the formula.

Donna Karan’s new fragrance, Woman, designed by world-renowned architect Zaha Hadid, resembles a contemporary sculpture and would integrate flawlessly into a modern art gallery.

Donna Karan’s new fragrance, Woman, was designed by world-renowned architect Zaha Hadid. It resembles a contemporary sculpture and would integrate flawlessly into a modern art gallery. The mix of materials—glass, plastic and metal—adds to the manufacturing complexity as well as to the package’s innovative and luxurious positioning.

On the mass side of the equation, several techniques and processes are allowing mass market brands, without the luxury price tag, to achieve standout packaging. Ironically, packaging may have to work even harder in the mass market, as it may be the sole spokesperson for the brand in the absence of a beauty adviser.

Customization of plastic bottles, sometimes with a lower minimums requirement, has had a significant impact, allowing brands to create highly competitive packaging without an overwhelming commitment.

The same is true of metal finishes on packaging. There is a significant increase in the amount of metal finishes used on packages, especially in mass market products where this costly finish was traditionally unaffordable. The metal decoration is achieved through the addition of metal components or the less expensive metallization of plastic parts. Many manufacturers are investing in new metallizing chambers in order to supply the increased demand.

Nars’ Andy Warhol Self Portrait Palette features new finishes and decorative techniques, including a screen-printed Warhol quote on the inner mirror. (The compact was manufactured by 3C, Inc.)

Finishes and decoration have become more important by virtue of new techniques enabling increased flexibility. Back to the prestige market, the Nars Andy Warhol custom decoration on the compact with a quote on the mirror scored the WWD Product of the Year award for Prestige Color Cosmetics. (The compact was manufactured by 3C, Inc.)

Shu Uemura’s Karl Lagerfeld makeup collaboration used decoration and graphics to bring to life Karl’s charming Mon Shu character.

Sustainability

Personal care packaging accounts for 30% of landfill waste. There is a great deal of work to be done in this area.

P&G’s Pantene Natural Fusion line uses packaging created from sugar cane, a bioplastic that claims to be more readily recycled than petrochemical based plastic.

J&J’s Neutrogena Naturals claims to be using post-consumer materials wherever possible.

There are many beauty companies focused on efficiencies in manufacturing, responsible waste management, reduction of packaging and generally minimizing carbon footprints where possible. The fact remains that, as an industry, we grossly over-package our products. Marketing demands, retail requirements and legal compliance may all contribute to the packaging, but we must find a way to manage this.

We are an industry that relies on emotional marketing, high touch factor, the draw of must-have cult collectability, novelty and innovation. Obviously, packaging plays an enormous role in all these areas.
(Thanks to packaging colleagues who shared some observations with me: Cliff Davis, Quality Resourcing Services; Lou Della Pesca, 3C, Inc.; Al Lustrino, Gurwitch Products)

About the Author

Karen Young is chief executive officer, The Young Group, with offices in New York and Paris. Before opening The Young Group in 1999, Karen was vice president of marketing and advertising for Lancôme. Prior to Lancôme, she spent 17 years at Estée Lauder, where she held a variety of executive positions, including director of color cosmetics. Karen is an active board member of Fashion Group International. She is a certified personal trainer and nutritionist—and an adjunct professor of product development in FIT’s cosmetic masters program. Since opening The Young Group, Karen has developed extensive color cosmetics and skin care lines, and has worked on beauty brands including Christian Dior Parfums, Shiseido Skin Care and Cosmetics, Bath & Body Works, Avon, Neutrogena and 3M Products.