Airless Attraction

Cospack’s Beverly series gives airless bottles an upscale look with a double-wall design.

Airless packaging, which includes airless dispensing systems, is designed to protect sensitive formulations from oxygen—and they seem to be more popular than ever.

“There is definitely more of a demand for airless packaging now, due to the development of new products with formulations that require protection from oxygen,” says Yoolie Park, director of sales and marketing, Nest-Filler.

Ray Lewis, account executive, Jansy Packaging, agrees. “I’m continuing to see formulation technologies improve, as well as the performance of skin care products. They are now better at reducing the effects of aging by reducing wrinkles and improving hydration. Many of these advanced formulations require airless packages.”

Even though the demand for airless packaging is on the rise, suppliers say that the airless dispensing technologies haven’t changed much in recent years.

“The airless market is maturing and airless packaging manufacturers are mainly focusing on expanding product ranges into other price and performance segments,” says Mylène Meunier, vice president of sales, U.S./France, Cosmogen.

Peter Thomas Roth is one brand with advanced skin care formulations that often require airless packaging. The brand says suppliers have been responding in positive ways to its packaging needs.

“Over the past year, we have seen more sophisticated forms, shapes, and more types of custom airless packages than ever before,” says Danielle Scafuri, vice president of packaging and purchasing, Peter Thomas Roth. “As packaging functionality continues to evolve, there’s no doubt that even more brands will take advantage of the benefits of airless packaging innovations,” she says.

Lablabo, known for its airless metered dispensers, is ready to meet marketers’ new demands. The supplier recently opened a new production facility in France, which will increase its production capabilities.

But Lablabo points to another emerging trend—increased quality control. Lablabo’s new facility meets GMP (Good Manufacturing Procedures) requirements, and the supplier predicts that the cosmetics industry will soon become more focused on maintaining quality control during production.

“For the moment, the required quality level is higher in the pharmaceutical industry,” explains Jean-Philippe Taberlet, pharmacist and Lablabo’s CEO. Continuing to compare the beauty industry to pharma, he says, “A new European regulation will be implemented in July, which will be an important move. No doubt that the quality level of the cosmetic industry will reach the pharmaceutical one.”

Cosmeceutical Growth

The demand for airless packaging is being fueled by new product launches and formulation innovations—but most especially products considered to be “cosmeceuticals.” The demand isn’t showing any signs of slowing—in fact, the market for cosmeceutical products is expected to reach $42.4 billion by 2018, which represents a growth rate of 4.6% (CAGR).

These statistics are from a January 2013 report published by GBI Research, “Cosmeceuticals Market to 2018-Technological Advances and Consumer Awareness Boost Commercial Potential for Innovative and Premium-Priced Products.”

The cosmeceutical market has been growing steadily since 2004. Globally (meaning the U.S., UK, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, and Japan), the cosmeceuticals market was estimated at $30.9 billion in 2011. This represented a CAGR of 3.6% from $24.1 billion in 2004.

For market research purposes, the cosmeceutical category is often divided into three major segments: skin care, hair care and “others.” GBI Research says that skin care products make up the largest share of the cosmeceutical market, at 43%—dominated by anti-aging products.

Peter Thomas Roth is one brand that uses many airless packages, including this bottle by Nest-Filler.

The Many Benefits of Airless

Airless packaging is often chosen for cosmeceutical and other types of skin care products that have formulations that require protective benefits—and this is not lost on the consumer, marketers say.

“Even though consumers may not know packaging terminology, they are becoming more aware of what airless components look like and are getting accustomed to the benefits of airless technology,” explains Peter Thomas Roth’s Scafuri. For instance, a vitamin C serum won’t turn brown as quickly—and the consumer will notice.”

Scafuri says consumers also appreciate another user-friendly feature that an airless package provides—being able to completely evacuate a product.

Vonda Simon, owner/CEO, SeaCliff Beauty Packaging & Laboratories, agrees. “Our customers love the benefit of ‘complete evacuation,’ and will often choose an airless package for this reason, even when the formula doesn’t require it.”

Simon adds, “This is especially true for a high-priced skin cream, because all consumers like to get their money’s worth.”

Designed for Precise Application

Since airless packaging is often used for skin care products, suppliers are offering new options that reflect the trend toward more functional packages that can help apply a product more precisely. This is especially useful for products such as anti-aging creams, which often require having to apply a small amount to a tiny wrinkle. Airless packages with different types of applicator tips are addressing this need.

Cosmogen’s Meunier says that many skin care brands are now looking for airless packages that offer these types of solutions. Cosmogen’s “minis” are one example.

“Our airless minis have small capacities, and are perfectly suited for a beauty serum, or any skin care product that only requires using a few drops. They have dispensing tips that enable a more precise application, and they would work especially well for wrinkle treatments,” Meunier explains.

At Fusion Packaging, miniature airless packages are becoming increasingly popular. “Having a mini version of your branded airless package allows your customer to purchase kits and sets,” explains Michael Cafiero, director of sales, Fusion Packaging. We have a full line of sizes that can accommodate the everyday consumer on-the-go.”

HCT collaborated with Pum-Tech to develop this airless ampoule that utilizes HCT’s patented cooling tip.

HCT Packaging also offers specially designed applicator tips, and the supplier has recently collaborated with Pum-Tech to launch an airless ampoule with its patented cooling tip.

The new airless package, which is available as a stock item (with exclusivity), contains Pum-Tech’s “spot series” vertical airless pump, and HCT says it is ideal for a skin care formulation. The uniquely shaped, ergonomically designed metal tip applicator by HCT is reminiscent of a curvy oval-shaped paddle. It is made from zamac, and will glide smoothly around the delicate eye area, while delivering a cooling sensation to the skin.

HCT has used its cooling tip on other packages in the past, including a tube, but this airless package is brand new—and no one has marketed it yet. “I’m extremely proud of how far the metal tip has come—from its early development, to its most recent incarnations,” says Tim Thorpe, president HCT USA.

Thorpe continues, “What I’m most proud of is how many people within HCT came forward with great ideas to develop a concept that is not only workable, but is now recognized as a key component for any prestige eye treatment.”

More New Types of Airless Packages

Other suppliers are focusing on new types of airless packages as well.

Neopac’s AirShield tube has both a polyfoil barrier and a unique airless dispensing valve.

Neopac has a new airless polyfoil tube, AirShield, which has been in development since 2011, and is expected to come on the market this fall. The tube has a polyfoil barrier, which ensures oxygen protection for highly sensitive formulations, including cosmetic products that contain retinol or vitamins.

Boris Schaefer, sales manager cosmetics North America, Neopac, describes why the company’s airless dispensing technology is unique, explaining, “It’s a two-component valve system, placed in the tube head. It prevents product from flowing out after use, and no air will flow back into the tube after it is opened.”

Other airless tubes have been available, but they are made using other components, according to Schaefer. “Others are made mostly with only a flexible membrane. This is not ideal because air exchange may not be 100% avoided,” he explains.

The new tube is fulfilling a need for brand marketers, according to Schaefer. He says, “Until now, marketers had very limited options in tubes. Now that we can offer airless with polyfoil, it brings our customers a step forward.”

Jansy’s new airless click pen.

Jansy Packaging is offering new types of airless components, in a variety of shapes.

“We have more types of airless packages available now, including a double-ended airless click pen. It has various applicator options, including a brush, spatula, flocked slant tip applicator or roller ball,” says Lewis, of Jansy Packaging.

Nest-Filler has a new, uniquely shaped airless package, called the “mouse.” It resembles a traditional computer mouse, and utilizes pouch dispensing technology. It has a collapsible aluminum pouch inside the ergonomic mouse-shaped bottle.

“We saw how well the pouch technology worked, and we wanted to incorporate it into a new design for an airless component,” explains Nest-Filler’s Park. “We came up with the mouse shape, because it’s easy to grasp in your hand while applying a product,” she says.

Nest-Filler started showing this package a year ago, but the concept hasn’t been utilized by a brand in the U.S. yet. “The ‘mouse’ would be perfect for a BB cream, which is so popular right now,” adds Park.

PKG Group/Yonwoo International has a new “dual phase” airless package. It has two parts: the lower portion is a bottle, designed to contain a liquid; and the upper portion is designed to hold a powder. It also has an airless pump, which dispenses the product after mixing, at the time of use.

“Before using the product, the consumer removes a stopper, which breaks a seal and allows the powder to be released into the liquid—mixing the product, and activating the active ingredients,” explains Benny Calderone, director of sales and marketing, PKG Group/Yonwoo International.

Calderone says the company recently developed this package to meet current market demands. “We identified a need for packaging to accommodate high-end vitamin formulations. This package allows a brand to develop a customized skin care regimen. We’re also exploring another option, which is a package designed to keep two liquids separate,” he explains.

Airless Jars

The airless jar seems to be emerging as a trend among some skin care brands. One of its many advantages over traditional jars, in addition to protecting ingredients, is that it’s more hygienic.
“Our airless jar is completely hygienic in the way it dispenses. The lid twists, and the product is pushed out. Like bottles, this type of jar also allows the user to control the flow of the dispensed product,” explains Nest-Filler’s Park.

Peter Thomas Roth chose Nest-Filler’s airless jar for its latest launch, which contains vitamin C and other antioxidants that require protection.

Peter Thomas Roth is using an airless jar by Nest-Filler for its new Camu Camu Power C x 30 Vitamin C Brightening Moisturizer. It is decorated in a custom color—metallic orange.

“The product contains sensitive ingredients, including camu camu, vitamin C, and other antioxidants which require airless packaging to preserve efficacy, stability, and shelf life,” says Scafuri, of Peter Thomas Roth.

Scafuri says her main concern when choosing packaging is always to protect the integrity of a formulation. “We are always in search of innovative packaging technology, because we use the most advanced, efficacious, synergistic ingredients that require the best protection.” She adds, “Our double-walled, opaque, airless packages keep our formulas from being exposed to air and light—both of which can be degrading.”

SeaCliff Beauty also offers a new airless dispensing jar, with an engineered dial inside that can be turned to three different dispensing flow options. The jar also features an inner mirror underneath the cap.

“The airless dispensing jar is an easy to use and a consumer-driven component that can be used for many skin care and cosmetic products,” explains Simon.

The Benefits of A Pressure Control System

Another type of airless package is Airopack’s air-driven dispensing system. The product is dispensed through air pressure underneath the piston of its clear PET bottle. This package hasn’t been marketed by a brand yet, however it is currently marketed in Europe and Asia under the SuperMax Shave Gel brand.

Airopack’s airless package and dispensing system consists of a clear PET bottle, which can be decorated with a label—or, left clear to show off its unique inner spiral.

“This airless system provides a unique benefit—immediate, continuous dispensing, according to Ken Kramer, vice president of business development and sales, Airopack. “It doesn’t require any strokes to prime the pump, and it maintains constant pressure, without the need for additional pumping,” he explains.

Keeping your finger on the actuator will cause the product to dispense in a steady stream. Users have full control over how quickly, or slowly, the product is dispensed.

According to Kramer, the same types of formulations that are typically used for other types of airless dispensing systems are compatible with Airopack’s package.

There is also another unique benefit—the option to use a foaming agent. A gel product, for instance, would turn into foam when it hits the air.

The spiral-shape inside of the clear bottle can also be a design element. “Our transparent dispenser offers the opportunity to differentiate on shelf, using innovative decorating and filling techniques,” adds Kramer.

Luxe Looks for Prestige and Masstige

Yet another trend in airless packaging is using upscale design elements. Certain features, such as double-walls, not only help protect a formulation but they also look more prestige.
David Hou, marketing and sales director, Cospack America, says that his customers include both masstige and prestige brands—and the upscale look appeals to both.

Cospack America’s new airless range, Beverly, consists of double-wall airless bottles. “They are designed with luxe metal accents, and are intended to appeal to the prestige market,” says Hou.

Calderone, of PKG Group/Yonwoo International, points out the same trend. “Mass brands want to offer consumers the added value of an airless package, because it has an upscale look. We’re seeing a demand for airless packages from brands that sell at masstige price points.”

Calderone says he is also seeing many customers at the other end of the spectrum, and they choose airless packages for more reasons than aesthetics. “There are many prestige brands with exciting new advanced formulation technologies for skin care products. These products have specific airless packaging requirements, so they need the best protection that’s available.”

Fusion Packaging’s airless Prime collection features bottles with double-walls and a modern, sleek design.

Fusion Packaging is another supplier that offers an airless range with a high-end look, called Prime. “This double-wall package will provide a sleek modern look on any retail shelf,” says Alexander Kwapis, industrial designer and creative director.

Kwapis adds, “Our Fusion Design Studio creates new packaging based on functionality and aesthetics. They are practical, while also attractive to the consumer’s eye.”

Decorations That Stand Out

In addition to a more prestige look, a benefit of choosing a double-wall airless bottle is the decorating possibilities, according to Cospack’s Hou.

“Our double-wall bottles are highly customizable. Since airless systems are so prevalent in the market today, there is an even greater need for a brand to try to stand out from the crowd, by using decoration. Whether selling in the masstige or prestige market, our customers are always looking for that ‘wow’ factor,” Hou explains.

Fusion explains how a double-wall bottle provides an aesthetic benefit: “A double-wall bottle helps to give more form and shape to an airless package. It also helps to increase the billboard space available for decoration, as well as provide a more prestigious look,” explains Kwapis.

Kwapis says that Fusion’s team explores how consumers use products and new formulations before beginning the design process. “We always encourage our customers to engage in the full extent of our decorating capabilities. Many materials are limiting due to cost, or product compatibility—so we invest in finding ways to manipulate a desired look or material to fit our customer’s needs,” he explains.

The six textile-influenced patterns in Aptar’s Collection Privée, include: Leather, Tulle & Lace, Prêt a Porter, Black & White, Goldsmith, and Tribal Chic. These decorating options can be used with Aptar’s Auriga, Unicity, and Sirius airless dispensing systems.

Aptar is another supplier emphasizing its decorating capabilities, and is offering new designs for its airless packages that are inspired by textiles. Options include an embroidered lace design and a faux leather pattern.

The fashionable looks are achieved by combining different decorating techniques, such as hot stamping, heat transfer labeling and silk screening. The designs are part of Aptar’s Haute Couture collection, which is called Collection Privée. It includes Aptar’s Auriga, Unicity and Sirius airless dispensing systems. Customizable options are also available, such as metallized actuators and sleek collar shapes.

“With countless luxury products being launched in the beauty market every day, decoration and customization become essential in differentiating a brand from the others on the shelf and staying competitive,” says Des McEttrick, market development director, North America Beauty, of Aptar Beauty + Home. She continues, “The technical aspect of these airless systems combined with customization allows for more control over the level of appeal the product will have on target consumers. Collection Privée takes the décor feature up a level with its made-to-order textures and patterns.”

Upcoming Supplier Innovations

Suppliers don’t see the market demand for airless packages slowing anytime soon, and some suppliers have new types of airless packages already in development.

Rather than new shapes or bottle designs, Airopack plans to concentrate on finding “greener” ways to use raw materials for its airless bottles in the future. “We’re working on exploring biodegradable options for PET, to improve our packaging’s carbon footprint,” explains Kramer.

PKG Group/Yonwoo is exploring the development of additional types of airless packages that are designed for fresh-mix formulations. One upcoming packaging option may be designed to keep two liquids in separate compartments, so they can be mixed just before being dispensed.

Jansy Packaging is working on a double-ended airless package that will contain a lipstick on one end. The other end will be a chamber, to hold any type of product—and can include one of Jansy’s many applicator options, such as a brush or rollerball.

“We expect to continue to see a demand for airless packaging in new shapes, with different types of applicators—especially for spot skin care treatments,” says Lewis. He predicts, “We will also see packaging become more specific to certain applications, in order to provide customers with a greater ease-of-use.”

The development Lewis describes is also what we can expect to see from Cosmogen, according to Meunier. “We have new concepts on their way to market, but it is too early to speak about them,” she explains. But Meunier does say that they will be airless packages, designed to deliver targeted skin care applications. Cosmogen is developing these new airless solutions in collaboration with a few well-known brands.

Meunier also hints at what may be the next big trend, for the airless packaging industry—or, perhaps it is what product and packaging manufacturers are hoping to accomplish. She explains, “Brand owners are not only looking for packaging with no air-intake, but now they are also looking for systems that prevent bacteria growth and contamination. But the development of such systems requires a lot of time, of technology, know-how and capital investment…”

Stay tuned to Beauty Packaging for more on these exciting new developments.