Advances in Applicators and Tools

The team at Red Carpet Manicure tested over 16 different brush and rod combinations before choosing the one that worked for its 72 different gel polish colors.

The days when a cosmetic applicator was considered an afterthought in the package development process are long gone. Product development teams often work with suppliers to decide every detail about an applicator’s design—such as a sponge’s density and texture—and all these details will affect a product’s performance.

Retailers and brands are offering more cosmetic applicator options, which are sold individually. More consumers have become well-versed in how to achieve professional makeup artist results by using the correct applicators and beauty tools, and they are seeking them out.

“Brands are looking for unique applicators, so they can offer their customers time-saving solutions,” says Denis Richard-Orliange, general manager, Cosmogen.

Stila Cosmetics is one brand that offers a number of different brush and applicator options, which are sold separately. “When I see a new type of beauty tool that I love, I always think about how to translate it to our customer. I look for applicators and tools that are easy to use—plus, we always include an instructional card to give the consumer some direction regarding what types of products each applicator is best suited for,” explains Jennifer Lim, director of package development, Stila Cosmetics.

One major trend in applicators that is contributing to the category’s growth is the recent surge in popularity of the blending sponge. “It began with the brand Beauty Blender and its egg-shaped sponge,” says Jason Clerke, president of Garrett Hewitt International.

Steve Ostrower, president of The Penthouse Group, agrees, and says, “That brand has spawned a race among all cosmetic companies to launch the next unique 3D blending sponge. This has become one of the most popular trends in beauty tools—and as a result, the sponge category is growing.”

There are also brushes in new shapes, which are designed to help make applying makeup easier. Added-value features are also popular, like double-ended brushes. Some suppliers and brands are also developing new types of tools, which are designed for new uses.

Plus, there are new types of mascara brushes and new tips for lipgloss wands. Both of these are a part of the package that can greatly affect the consumer’s experience of using the product, as well as its performance.

The new double duty stainless steel False Eyelash Applicator from Qosmedix can also be used to apply nail art.

Innovative Beauty Tools and Multi-Functional Designs

Brands often look for packaging that adds value, and the same standards apply when developing an applicator or beauty tool. Double-ended designs offer consumers two uses, with just one item.

“Multi-functional applicators continue to gain in popularity because the consumer is getting more value for their money,” says Sari Sternschein, director of marketing, Qosmedix.

“We are always developing new types of applicators and tools—and they are always multi-functional,” explains Sternschein. “We recently launched two stainless steel False Eyelash Applicators, one pointed and one curved. These allow a professional to precisely apply individual or strip false eyelashes to the lash line.”

The second use for the False Eyelash Applicator is applying nail art, such as rhinestones, beads or other small items. “This tool can be used for anything that requires a fine detailed application,” says Sternschein.

Stila Cosmetics’ Mascara Guard is another innovative and unusual

Stila’s Mascara Guard makes applying mascara neatly less challenging.

beauty tool that’s double-ended. Jennifer Lim, Stila’s director of package development, says the trend toward longer lashes has created the need for this tool.

“Consumers love the Mascara Guard and can’t live without it, once they try it. It makes mascara application quick and mess free and definitely helps separate the lashes,” explains Jill Tomandl, vice president of product development, package design and innovation for Stila Cosmetics.

One side is the “guard,” which users hold against their face as protection. When you blink before your mascara dries, smudges will appear on the guard, not your skin. The other side features two types of combs, in one. One side of the comb features teeth with wider spacing than the other.

OEKAbeauty, which is represented exclusively in North America by ABA Packaging Corp., has developed an applicator that is typically used for lipgloss—but is also ideal for other types of products.
The Pearl Applicator— a wand with a pearl-shaped tip—provides new types of application possibilities, according to Mike Warford, national sales manager for ABA Packaging Corp.

“The tip’s smooth surface allows users to more easily dip and gently apply all types of treatment products to the lips, and it will spread a product evenly,” explains Warford.

Beauty entrepreneur Keisha Wright also recently recognized the need for a new type of beauty tool, so she created Swoon, a patent-pending

OEKAbeauty’s Pearl Applicator is ideal for products from lipgloss to anti-wrinkle creams.

lipgloss tool and applicator.

Swoon has a long rod-shaped wand with a soft, flexible cone-shaped tip made from TPE. The tip is designed to fit inside a lipgloss bottle, and work like a spoon—making it easy for consumers to scoop out every last drop of gloss. Keeping in line with the multi-functional trend, Swoon’s tip is also designed to function well as a lipgloss applicator.

The wand is attached to an over-sized round base that is grooved, which acts as a handle when using it. A cylindrical shaped cover fits over the wand, which keeps it clean while toting it around in a makeup case. It is injection-molded in two pieces—the collar, neck, and tip; and the cover.

Wright has plans to build an entire company based on the need for more innovative beauty tools and products that are designed for multi-tasking, and will be showcasing her designs in Cosmoprof North America’s Discover Beauty section.

New 3D Blending Sponges

Swoon’s flexible tip is designed to scoop every last drop of lipgloss from the bottom of the bottle, as well as apply it.

The multifunctional trend is also having an effect on sponge applicators, according to Clerke, of Garrett Hewitt. “We have been receiving a lot of requests for sponges in polyurethane and other synthetic foam materials in different shapes and designs—especially double-ended blending sponges,” he says.

Garrett Hewitt makes all types of blending sponges—some are even on handles. The company recently worked with Stila Cosmetics, which is launching a double-ended sponge in July, as part of its new product lineup for Fall 2013.

“The rounded side of this sponge is for dabbing onto your skin, to perfect your makeup on your face and neck. The pointy edge is for getting into all the hard-to-reach areas, around the nose and eyes,” explains Stila’s Lim.

MAC Cosmetics also launched a 3D blending sponge with The Penthouse Group last year. “It’s a tapered cylinder shape, with two rounded ends—similar to an elephant’s trunk.”

Improving Foam Sponges

There have been a few recent developments that are enabling suppliers to create new types of sponge applicators, using materials that provide new benefits.

The Penthouse Group, which works on creating new types of sponges in its R&D facility in Japan, has developed special automated machinery that can buff sponge material into any three-dimensional shape to fit the contours of the face more easily.

The company has also launched a new sponge called Yukilon MG. “It has a unique feel and texture, unlike any other sponge,” says Ostrower. It has a silky feel, and it is designed to provide an exhilarating sensory experience when used on the skin. “Our proprietary manufacturing techniques ensure that the ‘feeling’ is specially formulated into the sponge, so it won’t ever wash out, even with repeated use,” he explains.

Anisa International’s Glider brush collection features a unique curve for precise application.

Brush Shapes and Bristle Options

Cosmetic brushes are another popular category of beauty tools, and many brands pay a lot of attention to choosing the right handle, brush shape, and fiber, since these will affect a brush’s performance.

The popularity of synthetic fibers over animal hair for makeup brushes has been a big trend, for several years now, suppliers say. They weren’t always as widely used—even by brands that preferred not to use animal products—because the performance wasn’t there.

“Over the last ten years, synthetic fibers have really become a viable alternative,” says Garrett Hewitt’s Clerke. “There has been a push toward getting away from animal products, even by large beauty companies, so now the brush technologies have advanced to where we are getting synthetic fibers to closely mimic the performance of naturals,” he explains.

Synthetic fibers allow a supplier to change all the variables, such as how many waves per inch a brush’s hairs will have—and this affects its pick-up ability and pay-off to match the brand’s requirement. “We can determine the fiber’s stiffness, control the shape of the tip, and the level of softness it will have on the skin,” says Clerke.

Just a few years ago, synthetic hairs weren’t accessible to many brands, due to cost, but recent advances made by suppliers have improved the efficiency of production, making synthetic brushes more accessible to mass market brands.

Another supplier specializing in brushes, as well as other applicators, is Anisa International. The company’s Glider Collection includes brushes in five different sizes, for specific eye and lip applications; they’re all made with a proprietary fiber blend. The brush head is a unique patent-pending design with a curved shape designed to “glide effortlessly over the skin.”

Cosmogen uses an innovative type of synthetic fiber for its brushes that is designed to feel extra plush against the skin. Cosmogen uses an innovative type of synthetic fiber for its brushes that is designed to feel extra plush against the skin.

Cosmogen also makes quality brushes with luxe features. The supplier uses an innovative synthetic fiber, according to Richard-Orliange, of Cosmogen.

“Our brushes provide an exceptional sensory experience, because they are very plush,” says Richard-Orliange.

The tufts, which are clusters of fibers that make up the brush, can be paired with any type of medium-sized brush handle.

Cosmogen’s loose powder brush has a large tuft that will diffuse the product better, to create a natural finish. The supplier’s compact foundation brush has a dense tuft that allows it to pick up more product. “It is also supple, which allows you to apply product more easily, anywhere,” adds Richard-Orliange.

Flawless Application for Eye Shadow

Smaller applicators, which are usually included with a product like eye shadow, are just as important when it comes to applying makeup like a pro.

The Penthouse Group is offering new types of eye shadow applicators, with improved performance characteristics. Its

The Penthouse Group’s eye shadow applicator is flocked on both sides for better performance.

locked tip eye shadow applicator is unique because the edges of the foam tip are flocked, as well as the top and bottom.

Ostrower explains, “Having an eye shadow applicator with a completely smooth flocked surface truly provides a flawless application. This is due to the fact that you won’t ever have a separating line where the tip and bottom of the applicator meet.”

Flocking makes any type of applicator velvety-soft, and a softer texture is perfect for applying loose or pressed powder eye shadow.

Choosing the Best Nail Polish Applicator

Nail polish requires the right type of brush as well—and it’s critical to its performance, so most brands don’t take the process of choosing one lightly.

“We tested over 16 brush and rod combinations before finalizing our existing brush and rod that we market today,” says Barry Shields, managing partner Red Carpet Manicure.

No matter how well your brush works with your nail polish formulation, sometimes there are other issues to consider—like when a nail polish brush remains on a bottle, separating from its cap.

Bisioprogetti has solved this issue by developing a one-piece injection molded brush.

“We can inject the brush in Clean Room ISO 7, which is a standard request from the pharmaceutical industry. Producing the brush in one piece is more economical,” says Marco Camnasio, sales director, Bisioprogetti. “There is nothing similar, in the world,” he adds.

Bisioprogetti first began developing this applicator in response to a need by its pharma customers. But the system is compatible with a standard nail polish bottle’s neck size. Bisioprogetti improved the softness of the bristles, and the brush works well with various nail polish formulations, according to Camnasio.

Bisioprogetti’s nail polish brush applicator is made from polypropylene, and the supplier has different brush filament designs that can be customized.

A Lust for Lipgloss

The popularity of lipgloss has sparked a new demand for new types of applicators.

“The trend has shifted slightly more to lipgloss, rather than classic lipstick,” says ABA Packaging’s Warford.

When choosing a lipgloss applicator, he says it’s important to consider your formulation. “Lipgloss formulations can range from thin to thick, and they can also be sticky. We often adapt an applicator’s shape, hardness and flock length to work best with different types of formulations,” says Warford.

For instance, OEKAbeauty’s “Smooth Lips” spatula works with a variety of lipgloss formulations. It has a large surface area, and the ability to pick up the right amount of gloss for easy application, the supplier says.

Geka’s sensualLips lipgloss applicator is designed to hold a lot of product.

Pilar González Gómez, vice president of marketing, Geka GmbH, advises, “When it comes to lip applicators, the most important thing to consider is that the formulation is nicely distributed on the lips and gives a nice feeling during application.”

The supplier’s sensualLips holds much more product when compared to all other products available, according to Gómez. “It is not on the market yet, but in project status with several big accounts,” she adds.

Mascara Trends

In the mascara category, when the molded brush first launched, it was all the rage. Now, there seems to be a shift back toward the more traditional twisted wire brushes.

However, Geka feels a little differently. “The molded mascara brush trend isn’t over quite yet,” says Gómez. “Even though the number of mascara launches with twisted wire brushes has been on the rise, the percentage of requests we receive for molded brushes is still higher than for twisted wire,” she explains.

Geka is also meeting the needs of its customers that are requesting twisted wire brushes, with the recent launch of styleQueen. It is a twisted wire brush designed to provide maximum volume and perfect separation of lashes. The brush’s innovative feature is the supplier’s patented “Hypno-Cut,” which is made with EOS fibers that are produced in-house, and have an uneven surface for even pick-up and smooth application.

Test, Before Choosing

No matter what type of applicator or beauty tool you need, suppliers say testing it with your product is always critical. Beauty—and using cosmetic products—is so subjective. You may be surprised to learn that an applicator or tool that is easy for one person to use may be difficult for others.

A Sample That Turns into an Applicator by Orlandi Giving your customers the best experience when trying a sample can be difficult, but Orlandi offers a creative solution. When you’re thinking about a sampling program, it’s best to think about how to give consumers the best experience using the product—but it’s not possible to include a full-size applicator with a product sample. Costs also need to be considered. Orlandi offers a few creative solutions in ways to sample makeup. One is iApply, a patented single-use applicator developed for color cosmetics and treatment products. It’s sealed, tamper-evident and hygienic. Just give iApply a squeeze in the middle and it transforms from its flat oval shape into a 3D applicator. It can contain a single dose of any type of color cosmetic. The product can be applied with brush-like strokes directly to the face. This easy-to-use intuitive design is ideal for eye shadow or blush. It can also be used for a broad range of applications from mailings to over-the-counter sampling or internet promotions.