Jamie Matusow, Editor07.26.13
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Anticipation was in the air as attendees—primarily from beauty brands in the U.S.— lined up for entry to Luxe Pack New York on May 15 and 16 at the Metropolitan Pavilion and Altman Buildings on West 17th Street. Inside, an international group of leading luxury packaging suppliers—more than 165 this year—put the finishing touches on their booths filled with products that showcased their top achievements and latest technologies. To accommodate an ever-growing number of exhibitor requests, show organizers had accessed more than 8,000 square feet of floor space on the upper level of the Metropolitan Pavilion, where two days of standing room only (SRO) educational sessions were also held.
According to the Luxe Pack team, the annual event, now in its 11th year, enjoyed an 11% increase in attendance with 2,894 unique visitors.
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Nathalie Grosdidier |
What other changes has Grosdidier seen over the last decade at Luxe Pack New York?
“The percentage of American companies has grown over the last four to five years,” she said. “It used to be about 80% European,” she explained. “Now it’s about fifty-fifty.” Not surprisingly, she added: “It’s now better known in the U.S. market than when it started here eleven years ago.”
As Grosdidier and I spoke, she glanced through the catalog listings of all the exhibitors on this year’s show floor, and intrigued me, saying, “You will discover some very interesting things.”
Heavy glass bases, droppers, unusual packaging materials, advanced decoration techniques and healthy doses of metal were a few of the key trends Beauty Packaging spotted among exhibitors at this year’s show.
Material Choices
From glass to anodized metals, plastics to ceramics, wood to sterling, packaging from mass to masstige to prestige continues to create a luxe look with materials that broadcast quality and value. Whether used singly or combined, many of the results seen at Luxe Pack NY were unquestionably eye-catching.
Awantys was making its debut in the U.S. luxury market and attracted great interest in the various, highly textural materials they use for packaging luxury products—from flocked finishes to stone lids, and even sterling silver caps. Caroline Niépce, chief operations officer, explained that they work with four different stones and porcelain. The company also produces caps, collars and pumps made of aluminum, plastic and zamac, and offers a variety of print and decorating options.
Anha, too, offered a luxury, tactile experience in its packaging for fragrance and home scent. Like containers from Awantys, many can be retained and used as keepsake boxes. Wood with engravings, laser cut designs, lacquer ware boxes and silkscreened candle jars were a few of the knockouts on display. Anha was also highlighting a new material used to hold candles. It looks and feels like concrete, and is available in a spectrum of colors. The mineral-based material is also eco-friendly.
Technotraf, from the beauty region in northern Spain—and Quadpack’s newest acquisition—featured a wide assortment of beautiful wooden caps. Like a premium oak floor, customers can choose from a multitude of finishes for their environmentally responsible packaging choices.
Anodized Metals
Design and manufacturing firm Anomatic Corp., which specializes in custom precision metal stamping services and decorative color anodizing, was highlighting new laser technology at Luxe Pack NY. Known for its rapid metal prototyping, Anomatic said they work with the entire supply chain from their “innovation campus” in New Albany, Ohio. Anomatic offers a wide range of decorative options.
Saco, an anodizing specialist based in the UK, manufactures anodized aluminum caps and collars, with features including 3D design and pressing. They claim “no other eyelet company is doing this” and are “investing substantial amounts in the processes.” Unique to Saco, they said, is their 25,000-piece minimum requirement. They also have 1,000 samples of stock items, which can be easily changed with ribbing, etc.
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Baralan/Arrowpak introduced Lilly, a new packaging line created for nail polish, but also suitable for other products. |
As mentioned previously, heavy glass bottles with substantial bases conveyed a rich look and a perceived quality in housing everything from fragrance to nail polish. (Please see sidebar for more on glass bottles and decorating.)
New High combined glass with metallization for a beautiful heart-shaped bottle in which two halves—the glass bottle and the metallized “cap” matched perfectly—no broken hearts there. New High was also showcasing a wide variety of new stock bottles, along with new decoration techniques.
Baralan/Arrowpak’s Inkwell bottle, with a heavy glass base and an innovative brush that detaches from the cap, was designed to make the do-it-yourselfer or manicurist’s job easier by giving them much more control. “Ergonomics meets high fashion,” was the way Arrowpak’s Jim Slowey described it.
The company also introduced Lilly, a new packaging line created for nail polish, but also suitable for other products due to compatible standard accessories such as droppers and pumps. The line, available in 8-, 10- and 15ml, can be matched with a range of caps that fit the design of the bottles. All are characterized by the thick glass distribution, with a beveled edge at the bottom and a sharp angle at the shoulder.
ABA Packaging introduced private mold glass bottles, available in small quantities of 30,000 pieces or more, with a relatively small tooling charge. Available in all shapes and sizes, the high-quality custom glass bottles and jars, ideal for fragrance, can be decorated in a variety of ways including spray coatings and printing.
New standard caps and bottles were popular attractions at Coverpla, where Dave Desai, national sales manager, told Beauty Packaging that the company had invested in a fully automatic, single-process, servo driven printing machine that can print 360 degrees on oval or squares. They have also invested in two new injection-molding machines, and are replacing their eight current machines with eight new ones. “We’re undergoing a major machinery upgrade,” said Desai. “We are seeing a sharp rise in our U.S. activity, and our re-investment in manufacturing will help to support it.” Coverpla offers customization through decoration, tinting and mold modification.
From its booth in the Altman Building, SGD highlighted its glass-decorating capabilities, which include lacquering inks and silkscreen. On display were fragrance bottles SGD had achieved for launches including Polo Red, Coach Love, Laundry by Shelli Segal and many more. The flacon for CK One Summer tricked the eye and invited touch with the water droplet effect created in the glass.
Decorative Effects
Decorative effects also made a strong showing in color cosmetics packaging.
3C Inc. displayed a range of plastic compacts covered with a soft touch finish that they had produced and decorated for Nars. Quotes from Andy Warhol are silk screened on the mirror.
At OEKAbeauty, which is exclusively represented in North America by ABA Packaging Corp., the spotlight was on the two-color bi-injection blow-molded bottle for lip products. Frank Bierkandt, director sales, marketing and innovation, told Beauty Packaging that this is the first time these processes have been combined. The lip-shaped transparent window allows the color of the product to be viewed. He also pointed out several new brush and applicator developments as well as the manufacturer’s new airless pack for lip products.
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HCP’s Magnum is a premium, aluminum stock range, which combines matte and polished, reflective surfaces. |
Tubes
The use of tubes continues to grow and at CTL Packaging, traffic was so brisk with attendees interested in their graphically appealing tubes, that Anna Soden, business development and marketing manager, told us, “We’re making deals almost every minute!” CTL featured its injection-molded tubes, decorated with an in-mold labeling process. The supplier says this new innovation in tube technology will reduce lead times. Another benefit, said Soden: CTL produces its tubes in the U.S., at its factory in North Carolina.
Viva Healthcare spotlighted its expertise in injection molding by showing off colorful tubes it had produced for the bath and body line launched by Payless Shoe Source. Viva said its polypropylene tubes offer superior photo quality for decorating, and the supplier’s in-mold labeling process ensures a design will cover the entire tube.
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MWV’s newest product, Aerosense, features a trigger-actuated aerosol sprayer that produces an even spray pattern. |
MWV’s newest product, Aerosense, is targeted(literally) toward sun care, hair care and body care products. It’s a new trigger-actuated aerosol sprayer that produces an even spray pattern. Additionally, Aerosense has a unique and convenient locking feature to prevent the sprayer from unexpectedly activating in a bag or suitcase. The sprayer’s design provides a distinctive look and offers consumers what MWV calls “a comfortable spray experience, with the intent to increase brand loyalty.”
Albéa continued to broadcast its acquisition of Rexam, which with the two combined properties, now offers customers what they say is “single-source packaging for beauty and personal care products that delivers new levels of supply chain efficiency.” Further, they say, innovation, complementary product lines and speed-to-market are enhanced. Company focus is on four core areas: Tubes, Dispensing Systems, Cosmetic Rigid Packaging and Beauty Solutions.
Dispensing Trends
PKG Group|Yonwoo International always offers a variety of innovative components, and this held true at Luxe Pack New York, with products from dual-ended airless containers to a variety of dropper serum packages, which are super hot right now, especially with masstige brands. The dual-ended airless line, known as the “DE,” is ideal for day/night creams and multi-step treatment regimens.
Droppers work well for dispensing serums, which are also growing in popularity. The newly designed Auto Dose dropper ensures a consistent amount of product with each application. Another new innovation by PKG Group|Yonwoo International in dropper style packages is their VX Mixer. This allows brands to keep a powder and liquid separate within the container for mixing by the consumer at the point of initial application—another trend in facial care. The VX Mixer is designed to extend formula shelf life as well as be intuitive and easy to use by consumers: Simply twist the top to release the powder into the liquid chamber, shake and apply with a bulb style dropper cap.
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Aptar offers a metallic finish for its popular Eden Pack. |
At Fusion Packaging attention focused on its brand new airless tube, which they said goes far beyond just adding a pump to a tube. Jessica Cahalen, marketing manager, explained that Fusion had re-engineered its tube for full evacuation and to provide an “enhanced consumer product experience.” Available in two different styles, Tru and Pure, Cahalen said consumers will love the positive aspects of an airless package, but in a less
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Fusion Packaging introduced airless tubes available in two different styles, Tru and Pure. |
Fusion Packaging’s Lift Collection was also featured at Luxe Pack New York. Available in 10 sizes, Cahalen said it is the largest assortment of an airless collection available on the market.
At Amcor, Karen Reagan, commercial business manager, U.S., talked about how bag-on-valve is one of the fastest growing technologies in the U.S., as the country moves away from standard aerosols. Amcor develops the film lamination for the pouches, which is necessary for compatibility with chemicals and helps to ensure 100% evacuation of the product. The technology allows for a smooth, consistent spray.
Folding Cartons & Set-up Boxes
Cultech, which provides folding cartons for high-end fragrance and cosmetic producers, prides itself on cutting edge technology, especially for printing and decorating expertise such as in its execution of fine detail that holds registration. For example, Cultech’s eye-popping bling looks like glitter—but does not rub off. In Europe, the parent company is the Provence-based, privately owned, 50-year-old Autojon Group, with 3,000 employees and 20 plants. Cultech’s new U.S. plant is located in Plainfield, NJ, but the company is also expanding its presence in other areas of the country, as it enters the Spirits business.
A new technique from McLean Packaging combines paperboard for strength and plastic packaging for its see-through properties. Stephanie Deisley explained that they can print 360 degrees around in clear plastic to showcase what’s inside. As far as decorative capabilities, McLean can print on plastic and paperboard for a seamless look.
Iggesund was celebrating the 50th anniversary of its Invercote paperboard at Luxe Pack NY. To show the quality of the board, they had produced a beautiful brochure with 17 Scandinavian designs. The company has a big focus on sustainability, according to Charles F. Del Rosso, sales manager, packaging, North America, who also said that cosmetics has always been an important part of their business.
Sampling
Several sampling suppliers were dispersed throughout the show, illustrating this growing trend for small sizes and “try before you buy” strategies.More and more, these miniature versions of full size products are also being packaged for retail sales like sampling packs.
Aphena offered a sampling solution for just about any product, including fragrance, oils, lip products, mascara and hair care. Dominick Montano, general manager and vice president of sales and marketing for Aphena, told Beauty Packaging, “We have had a lot of success with sampling sticks and multi-use sampling.”
Livcer was highlighting reclosable samples, and also showed the company’s capabilities in providing very flat samples of perfume.
From sampling bracelets to scented collar stays, Klocke offered a multitude of sampling options. Unit dose packaging featured several doses in a retail box. Cost-effective fragrance bubbles on a card, designed for one-time use, take the place of vials. The company also showed multi-compartment burst pouches with internal frangible seals, ideal for two products.
Custom Development
At CSI, Michael Musso said he was impressed by the growth of Luxe Pack NY from last year to this year. CSI specializes in custom development and turnkey services, and is “significantly focused on building higher end luxury packaging.” Musso says they have refined custom and turnkey and have brought on a number of large customers. The economic differential, he said, is that products are made in the USA.
Tools & Applicators
Steven Ostrower, president, The Penthouse Group, told Beauty Packaging: “It’s all about ergonomics especially as the population ages.” So one applicator avenue The Penthouse Group has taken is to provide brands with sponges that are ergonomically designed with “handles” to help consumers apply products to their face. Made of Yukilon material, the sponges are now sold more as an accessory, but Ostrower said they are reducing the size to fit into a compact. The contoured sponges can also be heat embossed or pad printed.
At Seacliff Beauty Packaging and Labs, president Vonda Simon said she was very pleased with the attendees at Luxe Pack NY. ”Shows are still the place people come,” she noted. She also said she thought the traffic this year “had significantly increased.”
Simon shared the view of several other suppliers at the show, commenting, “Droppers are a big thing in beauty.” Of the moment, she said, is a square shape, heavy wall glass bottle with a little bit of an oversized dropper ball. Another interesting item Seacliff exhibited was a pre-filled loose powder puff in a compact. This eliminates the problem of messy loose powder inside; and the consumer can keep the compact and buy refill puffs. Seacliff can customize the ribbon on the puff.
Simon stressed that Seacliff is a full service, turnkey company that has expertise in both formulation and packaging.
One item that caught our attention at Garrett-Hewitt was a fragrance atomizer, called the Square Twist & Spray. It is billed as “a modern, stylish alternative to more typical shapes.” A patented, twist-up actuator eliminates the need for a separate cap. And the package has an inner glass vial that can easily be replaced, which makes it eco-friendly. Garrett-Hewitt offers additional shapes as well.
Cosmogen showcased its new brush set called Blur. Marianna Cilauro, business development director-East Coast, said the brushes represent new shapes, a new gesture. “It’s all about the application,” she said. Blur is domed, and the way the hair is shaped makes it act more like a powder puff. Very soft fibers create a luxurious feel. The company also revealed a new synthetic fiber called Silkness, which combines multiple benefits. “It makes applying makeup a pleasure,” said Cilauro. As an aside, I spoke with Cilauro on Day 2 of Luxe Pack NY; she told me that she had handed out more than 100 cards the day before—“all good prospects.”
SIMP, a small injection molding company based in France, shared booth space with Cosmogen. Alain Blondel, president, explained that the company specializes in injected brushes for mascara. He said they have “quite unique technology for building molds—with unusual shapes and surfaces.” For instance, the brush for a double-duty product that features mascara and liner in one, looks like a leaf.
Another applicator featured a central frame with arches and bristles. SIMP has developed brushes for clients including Dior Givenchy and L’Oréal, and has derived lots of different shapes, effects, sizes and colors.
Looking Ahead
Grosdidier revealed that Luxe Pack Monaco, which will take place October 23-25, “will also be larger than ever,” and can’t accommodate all those on its waiting list. ”We are also preparing a very interesting seminar program,” she said.
According to Grosdidier, about 40% of Luxe Pack exhibitors do both the New York and Monaco shows.
For this year’s walk around the exhibit floor, Marc Rosen suggested that we look at the theme of “packaging for a new consumer.” With the recession ending and consumers spending again, how are brands getting their attention? He said, “They’re no longer buying something just because it’s new. They’re more open to looking at new products—but it is now a smarter, more savvy customer.” A customer who is also looking for efficacy—and in fact, a trifecta of price, packaging and efficacy. “In the recession,” said Rosen, “they weren’t trying new things; now, packaging is grabbing them back.”
Not only did Decotech convey a “totally green message,” with executive vice president Richard Engel telling us that the company uses organic inks—and that it’s a zero-waste-to-landfill facility, the array of decorated bottles that were showcased was impressive. Many bottles featured multiple decorating processes, various effects and textured printing. One bottle for Victoria’s Secret exemplified the meaning of wow factor due to Decotech’s achievement of combining 12 different processes. At Bormioli Luigi, Olga Bursac, vice president of sales, pointed out a number of bottle achievements in fragrance—especially for customers Bath & Body Works and Victoria’s Secret—and said the glassmaker is also getting into the Spirits world. An automatic process that can be carried out on small necks enables bottles to be coated on the interior. Shiny componentry was also in top form at C+N Packaging, where Brooks Markert, executive vice president of the company, told Rosen and me: “We are seeing a lot of metallizing. There’s an industry-wide trend toward metals and a metallic look.” As an example, he showed us the cap they had produced for Freedom by Tommy Hilfiger, in which he explained, “a heavy weighted metallized plastic takes on the look of metal.” Texen provides plastic packaging for both fragrance and cosmetics, including decoration capabilities such as metallizing and varnishing. They can decorate glass using vacuum metallization so that the bottle exactly matches the plastic cap. “Metallization is very popular for masstige,” the booth representative told us. “It looks better—and the price has gone down.” For details on sessions from Marc Rosen and Jamie Matusow at Luxe Pack New York, please go to www.beautypackaging.com |
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DISC |
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Anomatic |
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Libo Cosmetics |
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HCT Group |
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Baralan USA |
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HLP Klearfold |
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ABA Packaging/OEKAbeauty |
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Coverpla |
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Saco Ltd. |
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Cosmogen |
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PKG Group/Yonwoo International |
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SGD North America |
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HCP Packaging |
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Cameo Metal Products |
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Decotech |
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RockTenn |
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Iggesund Paperboard, Inc. |
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Aphena Health & Beauty |
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Viva Healthcare Packaging |
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Aptar |
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3C Inc. |
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Fusion Packaging |
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Pochet of America |
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The Penthouse Group |
