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Jamie Matusow: What was your entry into cosmetics/fragrance packaging design?
Marc Rosen: After getting my MFA from Pratt Institute in Package Design, I worked at Revlon in its heyday under the auspices of its founder, Charles Revson. It was a very difficult environment but a great post-graduate experience for a fledgling designer entering the cosmetics industry. Trial by fire!
JM: Who was your first boss—and what was the most important lesson you learned?
MR: Al Skolnik, but the real lesson came from Charles himself. He taught me about ‘The Three P’s,” his mantra for success: the right product, package and promotion.The three elements for success.
JM: For which fragrance were you awarded your first FiFi?
MR: My fist FiFi was for KL by Karl Lagerfeld, the fan-shaped bottle on the cover of my book, Glamour Icons, which has become iconic.
Fragrance bottles designed by Marc Rosen. (Photo: Mark Roskams) |
MR: Red Door by Elizabeth Arden, Catalyst for Men by Halston, Perry Ellis 360 Degrees, Lagerfeld for Men, Celebrate by Coty and Shanghai.
JM: What led to your being offered the position at Pratt Institute, where you teach the only graduate course in cosmetic packaging design?
MR: Pratt created my course “Package Design Workshop” for me to offer the students an elective specifically in fragrance package design. As a graduate of the program and as a trustee, I was very pleased to do it.This led to the scholarship as well and to the dinner. [Ed. Note: The Annual Pratt Institute Art of Packaging Award Gala supports The Marc Rosen Scholarship and Education Fund for Packaging by Design.]
JM: How has the process of developing a fragrance or cosmetics package changed over the years?
MR: Until the advent of MBA’s taking over marketing, decisions were not made based on input from focus groups. Marketing and design worked hand in hand with fragrance development and the fashion designer or celebrity to create one consistent message that underscored the designer’s brand. Today, perhaps the stakes are so much higher that marketing a fragrance has become much more numbers oriented even before the creative is initiated. Creating a package has become much less about creating an iconic brand with appropriate packaging than an eye towards a package that will lend itself to multiple flankers. Each method has its merits but I wish that the two could be combined.
JM: Please describe the highlight of your career so far.
MR: I guess that my long career has been the highlight of my career.
JM: What would you like to achieve going forward?
MR: I would like to bring my experience and creativity to new fragrance and cosmetic opportunities that would continue to redefine brands by their packaging. To help young designers to know the fulfillment that I have enjoyed over the years in this exciting industry.
JM: What was the most recent fragrance bottle you designed?
MR: Coming out next year, Brioni.Working with Oscar de la Renta as well. But can’t reveal fragrance names.
JM: What are you working on now?
MR: I’m working in several interesting areas where I am not only helping to brand new products by designing compelling and appropriate packaging, but where corporations are using my brand to underscore their new launches. My upcoming design collaboration on a new bottle for an important and sophisticated fragrance launching in 2015 for Mary Kay is a good example. They will be letting their consumers know that they have engaged a designer of my experience and ability to stress Mary Kay’s commitment to good design.
Dupont has created a unique concept, whereby they have asked me to do a series of presentations to cosmetic companies throughout Latin America.They have actually hired me to “be Marc Rosen” in order to enhance their presence in these markets for direct access to cosmetics executives by using my brand in a non-commercial way. By offering to bring someone with my experience to present market and packaging trends is seen as an educational outreach to potential clients. While there, I am also speaking with design students at local universities.
After many years of creating and presenting panels at the Luxe Pack Monaco show, this year the organizers have asked me to create an “Astonishment Report” using my brand as an international packaging design expert to enhance the show’s profile as a center for innovation.