Features

MakeUp in New York: The Third Time's Again a Charm

With double the number of exhibitors of last year, the boutique-like makeup-only show continued to draw top brand executives to its expanded space on the west side of Manhattan.

Jamie Matusow, Editor10.28.13

MakeUp in NY show floor swings into action.

On Day 1 just before noon, Sandra Maguarian, co-founder of Beauteam—the organizers of MakeUp in New York—said that several exhibitors had told her that they’d already met all of their expectations for the two-day show (September 25-26), teasing that they could go home now, with key new contacts made and solid business lined up.

It was a testament to the show’s successful strategy: a cosmetics-only exhibition in a conveniently located, boutique like space, where key marketing and packaging executives can stop by for a few hours to get an insightful look at some of the latest innovations in formulation and packaging. Not to mention the opportunity to attend an hour-long panel centered on an “of-the-moment” industry topic, spearheaded by brand and supplier executives. In all, there were a dozen conferences and more than 16 lively makeup demos over the two days.

Sandra Maguarian and Jean-Yves Bourgeois, co-founders of Beauteam

Jean-Yves Bourgeois, co-founder of Beauteam, said, “The visitors are interested in a focused show. They don’t want to waste time; they want to discover new things. Everything can be done in half a day.”

But many, in fact, lingered for a full day, and a number returned for Day 2, as there was a lot to see. And when attendance records were in, 1,520 people had visited the annual event—up 50% from 2012.

Held at Center 548, on West 22nd Street, MakeUp in New York took over a much larger space than in years past, as the number of 2013 exhibitors had also doubled from 2012, for a total of 69. The ratio of exhibitors also shifted dramatically this year, with the highest number coming from North America, which Maguarian said was the opposite of last year’s participants. Over 44% of this year’s exhibitors were from the U.S., increasing from 29% last year.
About 60% of exhibitors specialized in formula, with 30% in packaging and 10% focused on accessories and brushes.

Bourgeois also announced a new “MakeUp in” show, scheduled for Seoul in March 2014. He said he expects the premier show to draw about 25 exhibitors, with a concentration of leading, international exhibitors.

“We think the best place for a show in Asia is Seoul,” explained Bourgeois. He said Seoul is second to Japan in makeup, and an innovative country with small, medium and large-size companies. It’s also an easy flight to other Asian cities, and just 1-1/2 hours from Tokyo.

General Trends Noted

A quick run-through of suppliers positioned on the three spacious floors of Center 548 produced an overview of general packaging and product trends including chubby pencils, liquid and cream eye shadows that dry with the look of a powder, airless and airtight packaging, hot color hues, double-duty crayons that can be used as eyeliners, miniature sizes and artistic cosmetic brushes. Also overheard several times were suppliers mentioning that manufacturing continues to return to the U.S.; they said the days of finding cheap labor that combats shipping expenses is over.

Then it was time to get down to business and speak with many of the exhibitors for a first-hand account of what they were highlighting at MakeUp in New York.

Packaging Highlights

HCT Packaging, Inc. debuted an array of collections that united newly created long-lasting formulas with packaging, brush and pump designs. A charming custom “HCT ‘hearts’ MUNY” tin had been made especially for the event. In addition to advancements in color cosmetics, HCT also delivered an ensemble of luxurious skin care products designed for a flawless and radiant complexion. HCT also showed its new round “liquid compacts,” in which the product is contained in the applicator puff.

At Yonwoo International/PKG Group, there were a lot of color cosmetics packaging choices on-hand, in addition to the supplier’s vast selection of skin care lines. Pushbutton dual-product compacts held foundation and concealer; what’s more, the lower compartment is airless. A tube with “a room on top” makes it easy to add a mirror and a pan above the main chamber. A number of dosing droppers for skin care were on display, and an airless dosing dropper system is in the works. An ultra jumbo 300ml airless system for hair care serves as an ideal enclosure for high-end shampoos.

Geka presented two of its most recent collections: Lash Bar Classics and Lash Bar Specials. Pilar González Gómez, VP marketing, Geka Group, told Beauty Packaging that she was making “Good contacts and new contacts” at the show.

Airless tubes from Fusion Packaging

The focus was on airless tubes at Fusion Packaging. The tubes are available with two different actuator styles, in several different sizes, and can be complemented with shiny metallized or plain caps. Jessica Cahalen, marketing manager, said that the tubes serve the masstige-to prestige marketplace. She further explained that the tubes are a more cost-conscious form for airless packaging—and also use less resin. The Dallas-based company also previewed a new bottle with a shade window at the bottom. The bottle is patent pending and will launch in 2014.

Baralan USA is known for having the largest collection of stock nail polish bottles, but the supplier showed visitors something new at MakeUp in New York —glass packages for mascara and lipgloss. The slim glass bottle, called the Claudette 8, is available with either a mascara wand or a lipgloss applicator. It can also be used for a roll-on fragrance.

Topline Products featured a number of new products at the show, from microfiber brushes to a new airless pump collection, mini chubby crayons to turnkey “mosaic” compacts.A unique nail polish bottle allows for consumers to paint their nails, then “dial up” the amount of shimmery topcoat they desire. An ombre kit for lips includes three shades, a mirror and an applicator for women who want to follow the current trend of using more than one color on lips—or nails or hair.

Sandra Hutson, Topline’s sales and marketing director, told Beauty Packaging that double-duty and multi-purpose are “still big” and there’s a lot of turnkey production because “brands want one-stop shopping.”

Hutson also emphasized another trend we’ve heard a lot about lately. There’s less and less definition between packaging for different markets. “Consumers expect more value, basic has been redefined,” said Hutson. “There’s been a packaging trade-up. Brands want to do it well and quickly—and cost-effectively.”

CSI was showing a number of jars, and highlighting its capabilities for decorating. The California-based manufacturer is working on developing new designs and will be launching a new hourglass-shaped jar called Bella in 2014. They are also moving to single wall jars, which will help with light weighting.

United Brands Marketing offered a duo-liner pen with a two-color ink system—two products in one pen. Different applicators and packaging possibilities offer a wide variety of possibilities, including combining eyeliner, eyebrow brush, lip liner, lipstick, corrector and tattoo. Just pick any two.

SeaCliff Beauty Packaging & Laboratories was also highlighting its double duty prowess. Owner Vonda Simon stressed the company’s ability to vertically integrate packaging and formula—right from the start, as they produce both. Seacliff was featuring a number of products including BB cream and tinted cream.

OEKAbeauty brushes up on applicators.

OEKAbeauty, which is exclusively represented in North America by ABA Packaging Corp., showcased a number of packages, including its new applicator, Velvet Caress, which is designed to apply lipgloss or other liquid products, such as cream or concealer, onto the skin. Another sort of 2-in-1 beauty “tool,” it combines the characteristic features of applicators and brushes. A flocked application area provides a large, flat surface, but it’s made with flexible segments that allow the applicator to bend around the contours of the face or lips like a brush. Thanks to a unique patent pending cutting system invented by OEKAbeauty, different cuts can be realized on several applicator shapes.

Brushing Up

DuPont was doing double duty itself—with a dual focus on brushes and packaging materials. Surlyn, a very thick transparent plastic is ideal for fragrance caps and bottles. It can be molded with lots of detail, and can even create a 3D effect. Deco can be done beneath the outer layer to prevent scratching. For added on-shelf drama, the inside of the bottle can be a different shape than the outer molded bottle, such as straight walls on the inside, curved ones on the outside. Natrafil, a synthetic fiber used for brushes performs like a “natural.”

Anisa International, Inc., leaders in cosmetic brush design and manufacturing, offered live demonstrations featuring its stylish product collections. To showcase The Glider Collection in action, Shana King, senior director of beauty and education, used the brushes to create show-stopping looks during daily animations.

The Dual-Sided collection of brushes from Anisa International answers consumers’ demand for solution-based tools featuring three signature applications within one brush. The synthetic and natural fibers give the consumer the best of both worlds. The fiber duo complements without competing, whether the goal is a soft, diffused color or a highly saturated look. The Line Maker collection brings drama to eyes with a compact design. The bent connection of the ferrule to the handle was developed to give users defined placement and advanced application.

Fabulous Formulations

Formulations were of course in top form at MakeUp in NY, and suppliers did not disappoint brand attendees looking for innovative products.

IT IT, which made the trip to New York from northwest Italy to exhibit, featured its color-adjusting foundation—a foundation that changes color to adjust to your skin when exposed to UV light. The contract manufacturer was also promoting its lipstick and eye makeup collections at the show, as well as explaining its focus on R&D, in efforts to develop the most innovative formulations.

Schwan Cosmetics’ colorful booth design set the stage for its range of high-tech cosmetics products. Whether new colors and formulas, packaging options, application systems or novel decorations, intensity was the key word. Both the formulations and the packaging options featured bold hues—from bright yellow to high-shine blue. Liquid eyeliners and creamy eye shadows held the promise of 24 hours of lasting color. A repel/propel eye shadow stick touts a creaseless property, and also doubles as eyeliner; it even includes a built-in sharpener.

Claudia Schiessl said Schwan’s Intensity Collection derived its inspiration from artist David Hockney, as well as the CMYK printing process. The Pure Perfection Collection, designed with the luxury of silence in mind, includes two concealer products, each in three different colors, so users can create their own smooth facial canvases.

3D embossed Color Matrix Powder from Oxygen Development

Among other innovative products, Oxygen Development was showcasing its breakthrough color-matrix eye shadow technology—an advanced formulation that provides a controlled and even pigment release during application. Musa Dias, global vice president sales and marketing, said that the cream allows total coverage control: “The more you rub the product, the more pigment is released resulting in more intense color coverage.”

Dermaceutical Laboratories introduced a cream-to-powder formulation for easy on-the-go makeup applications. The secret is a technological process that encapsulates water in powder to allow transformation of powder to cream on skin or hair “as fast as lightning.”The lab says the blend is also ideal for gaining an instant velvety feel on hands.

Cosmetic Group USA, a contract manufacturer formerly known as The Color Factory, had changed its name to reflect its Made in the USA status. A number of interesting formulations attracted attendees, including a chroma liquid eye shadow that goes on as a liquid, but dries with the feel of a powder. A double-duty crayon can double as eyeliner thanks to a special tip.

Nu World Beauty, which does business with many of the major industry players, had traveled from just across the Hudson River, where it maintains 180,000 square feet of production space in two New Jersey facilities focused on new product and formula development.

Polychromatic was highlighting the latest in nail color formulations. The full turnkey manufacturer provides bottles, brushes and caps—and says they have re-invented nail polish. “This is not your grandmother’s nail polish,” they said. “We’ve removed the yellowing.”

Vintage Lipsticks on Display

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Vintage lipsticks displayed beneath glass cloches

The “MakeUp in” shows always aim to entertain and inform—aside from conference sessions and the exhibition—and MakeUp in NY was no exception. From professional makeup artists displaying their tricks of the trade in daily animations featuring dramatic face and body art, to a walk through lipstick packaging history, attendees were not wont for enjoyment.

Elegant fan-shaped lipsticks

The beautifully arranged lipstick exhibit was courtesy of Jean-Marie Martin Hattemberg, lipstick expert and collector, and curator Anne Camilli, who have a new book, Lips of Luxury. The book includes a history of lipstick packaging.

MakeUp in New York featured a number of the pieces from Hattemberg’s historic and fascinating collection.

‘MakeUp in’ in 2014

The fourth edition of MakeUp in NY has been announced for September 23-24, 2014.

In the meantime, you can catch:

MakeUp in Seoul, March 13-14, 2014

MakeUp in Paris, June 12-13, 2014