Joanna Cosgrove, Contributing Editor10.28.13
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Perimeter Brand Packaging recently launched three new wipes packages designed to keep wipes moist, help brands stand out at retail and provide consumers with appealing, on-the-go solutions. |
The U.S. skin care landscape was worth an estimated $11.6 billion last year, driven by the demand for premium skin care products (Euromonitor International). Product innovation in prestige skin care continues to compel the category forward. And with formulaic innovation comes the need for packaging that both preserves ingredient integrity and effectively conveys the message of the brand.
“The technical requirements and product-related demands for skin care product packages are without question increasing,” says Michael Warford, director of sales, ABA Packaging Corp., Holtsville, NY. “We are seeing more products that are increasingly sensitive to the elements which require improved barrier and sealing properties. We are seeing many new oils and serums that provide a host of compatibility, containment and dispensing challenges. And we are seeing higher viscosity products that tax existing dispensing systems and technologies.”
One of the biggest trends in prestige and mass skin care is airless packaging. “When it comes to luxury packaging, we have noticed a definite spike of interest in airless systems that dispense formula in new ways,” says Richard Esterbrook, sales manager of Freeport, NY-based The Penthouse Group, the exclusive U.S. sales office for Yoshino Kogyosho Co., Ltd., one of the largest plastic molders in Japan. “Cosmetics companies are focusing more and more on preservative-free and sensitive vitamin-enriched formulas that require ever higher levels of protection from oxygen and light.”
Airless dispensing methods offer a unique point of differentiation as well. The Penthouse Group’s airless package offerings include a Twist Piston airless jar that facilitates a center-dispensing jar. “Rather than pushing down on the actuator to raise the piston, the consumer twists the actuator to release a set dosage of formula,” says Esterbrook. “The twisting sensation and gentle ‘click’ of the actuator provides an enhanced experience to the overall package. Further, the sophisticated airless pump mechanism contained within the actuator prevents degradation and spoilage of the formula within the jar.”
The company also offers a stock series of round and oval tubes featuring an airbackless valve in the tube head. “The benefit of this valve is to inhibit the flow-back of air into the tube after formula is dispensed, but until now it has only been available as a fitment to the tube itself and could be used in combination with screw-on closures only,” says Esterbrook. Now Yoshino has added this airbackless valve to a flip top cap for the first time, and they even assembled this unique closure to their delaminating bag-in-bottle.
The resulting airless environment created within the package is impressive. Although the product is not currently in use with a skin care product, it received an award in Japan for successfully preserving the freshness of Kikkoman brand soy sauce. “For the first time, the soy sauce label could claim 90 days of product freshness after opening, even at room temperature,” says Esterbrook, with a nod to how that kind of preservation could have multiple applications in the skin care segment.
Airless tubes have also expanded the capabilities of the traditional tube packaging format. “While regular tubes are very popular they have not allowed for dosing,” explains Lesley Gadomski, vice president of sales, Fusion Packaging, Dallas, TX. “Airless tubes now can accommodate the look and feel of a tube with the precision dosing of an airless bottle.”
Kallini Beauty partnered with Fusion and Paklab to give its new Kamou skin care line the benefits of airless packaging.
Gadomski says Fusion developed eight packages including airless bottle minis, mini travel tubes and full size jars. “All of the packages were decorated among various substrates and package types, which we were able to manage through our FusionMatch Decoration Technology, which allows for accurate color and decoration.”
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Kallini Beauty partnered with Fusion and Paklab to give its new Kamou skin care line the benefits of airless packaging. |
Fusion’s airless packaging was also the choice for Peter Thomas Roth’s Camu Camu Power C X 30 product. “Because of the use of vitamin C, it required a double-wall airless package,” says Gadomski. “They were interested in jars to match their brand and needed airless to preserve the sensitive formulation.”
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Peter Thomas Roth chose HCT’s airless pump package in a metallic blue with silver Zamac tip. |
HCT Packaging, New York, also supplied a package for the Peter Thomas Roth skin care range. “Peter Thomas Roth chose HCT’s airless pump package in a metallic blue with silver Zamac tip so that the application of his Neuroliquid Volufill Youth Eye Serum would have a cooling effect with a soothing application around the eye area,” says John Pyrzenski, HCT’s manager of sales. “The package allows for a sanitary hands-free delivery of just the right amount of product to be applied and glides on smoothly. The fact that the package is airless and opaque prevents exposure to air and light, and maintains product integrity.”
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PKG Group/Yonwoo International, Somerset, NJ, recently launched a unique Double Ends airless package that features two chambers and a dispenser at each end. |
“We have found, years ago, that airless jars and bottles, as well as tubes, (no matter the style) are the most adaptable to skin care products,” says Melinda Wochner, chief marketing officer, CoValence Laboratories, Chandler, AZ. “Brands can purchase a number of different colors, styles, orifices, etc. based on the skin care function and type…giving brands a complete cohesive look throughout their entire skin care lineup.”
ABA Packaging, the exclusive U.S. representative for Promens, offers Promens’ patented AIRFREE “bag-in-bottle” airless dispensing system that provides oxygen protection, and is able to handle higher viscosity products while generally maintaining substantial restitution rates. This piston-free airless system is currently available in 30-, 50-, 100-, 200-, 400- and 500ml sizes.
Of course, airless packaging isn’t the only way to protect product integrity. Hoffmann Neopac AG, Oberdiessbach, Switzerland, produced a package for Strivectin’s Advanced Retinol Night Treatment using its polyfoil tube to provide outstanding barrier protection. “It helps to stabilize and protect the retinol formula which would not remain stable in other materials,” explains Monika Rüegg, Hoffmann Neopac’s head of sales and marketing for cosmetics.
The barrier properties were just one benefit. “The laminate structure provides premium aesthetic properties thanks to the metallic shine of the aluminum foil underneath a layer of colored PE,” she adds. “Due to the overcoating technology of polyfoil, the tube gets a higher restoring force which supports the premium perception of the package. The dark silver metallized closures enhance the cosmeceutical look of the StriVectin-AR product line.”
Innovative Design Trends
Competition for recognition at retail for skin care products is fierce. Packaging suppliers are pulling out all of the stops to create designs that pair beautiful aesthetics with unique functionality.
“We are noticing skin care packaging, once predominantly in lighter colors—turning to rich, darker, colors such as black bottles with dark actuators in muted tones,” observes Alexander Kwapis, Fusion’s creative director. “This look was previously commonly associated with color packaging, but skin care is taking on the aesthetic as well.
“Another skin care packaging trend is gradients in decoration—in both single and double wall,” he continues. “Gradients provide uniqueness, playfulness—and visually are more fashion forward. We’re seeing mass brands using hot-stamping and vacuum metallization to mimic aluminum overshells, commonly a prestige decoration technique.”
“The last couple of years of innovation in the skin care arena have been dominated by the ‘alphabet soup’ category of BB, CC and the emerging DD categories of multi-tasking skin care formulations,” notes Mike Daum, director of sales and marketing, VPI Packaging, Lyndhurst, NJ. “These formulas have not presented a challenge to the packaging-supply side of the industry. These formulas can be protected and have excellent shelf life in traditional coextruded tubes, PET and PMMA jars.”
While these products generally do not require airless packaging, intense market competition means their primary packaging not only has to generate a unique shelf presence, they also must be competitive in price.
VPI produced packaging for Studio Gear Cosmetics’ CC Color Correcting Cream that follows a tradition of emphasizing brand identity and communication to the consumer with simplicity. “Both the primary packaging and secondary packaging communicate this message,” says Daum. “The primary package for the SG CC Hydrating Cream is a coex 35mm PE elliptical slim line ‘take it anywhere’ tube, [and] the deco is one-pass black silkscreen, boldly communicating to the consumer both the brand identity and the product benefits.”
“Packaging is getting very high tech which is making more advanced formulations possible,” says Rhonda Beveridge, vice president of product development and marketing, Crystal International Group, Toronto, ON, CA. “For example, new battery-operated devices have been introduced that help exfoliate and stimulate circulation along with roller ball applicators that enhance the formulations and allow them to penetrate deeper.”
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Crystal International recently licensed a new dual dispensing technology that provides several advantages for skin care formulations. |
She adds that the application is especially useful for anti-acne products, as consumers can adjust the level of salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide by “dialing it up” for breakouts and “dialing back down” to prevent irritation. The same with anti-aging products—the user can slowly build up to higher levels of retinol or glycolic acid as tolerated. The package is available in several different sizes, from 5- to 200ml.
The dual dispensing package is also refillable, which circumvents the concern consumers may have regarding using up one side of the product faster than the other. “Because of their modular design, the empty cartridge or bottle can be removed and a new, filled cartridge or bottle can be inserted and the package can continue to be used,” explains Beveridge. “This is not only a plus for the user, but it also makes the package more sustainable which is important right now.”
Though the package is relatively new, Beveridge says several companies are currently in the early phase of using the package, and their new products are scheduled to launch in late 2014 and early 2015.
Dispenser Distinction
Often overlooked as a standard component for functionality, skin care dispensing options have advanced to meet the needs of increasingly sophisticated formulations.
“Skin care packaging continues to focus on unique dispensing innovations as well as precise dosing,” says PKG Group’s Csaszar. “We have seen a recent increase in the use of dropper packaging in the industry. We have met this interest by developing auto dosing droppers that automatically refill after each use for precise dosing of the next application. Spot applicators also continue to be on the incline.”
Two of Fusion’s packaging collections offer a user-friendly locking mechanism—single-wall T-Lock and double-wall Cirque. “Consumers enjoy the locking action because it removes the need for an overcap, allows for one handed, easy usage, and secures the product,” says the company’s Kwapis. “We did extensive internal testing to ensure both collections had the right fit, finish and feel when locking and unlocking the bottle. This was important to assure the product is secure.
“The lock is strong enough that these items can travel easily whether in your gym bag, purse, briefcase or carry on,” he continues. “This gives more mobility to the consumer’s skin care regimen, which is important in today’s fast-paced world.”
“On-the-go packaging is a growing trend in packaging,” agrees Steve Callahan, president, Perimeter Brand Packaging, Northborough, MA. “Consumers are spending less time at home and brand owners are launching new form factors that unlock new usage occasions and invite new consumers to try their products. On-the-go packaging that offers small portions is an easy way to attract new customers, especially if a brand that consumers usually purchase isn’t yet available in an on-the-go size.”
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Perimeter Brand Packaging recently launched three new wipes packages designed to keep wipes moist, help brands stand out at retail and provide consumers with appealing, on-the-go solutions. |
Largely driven by the interest in facial care and anti-aging products, Euromonitor forecasted the value of the U.S. skin care market to grow by about 7%, reaching $11.7 billion by 2014 and $12.2 billion by 2016 —giving packagers plenty of opportunity to put their best “face” forward.
