Brands—and suppliers—are thinking out-of-the-box, as demonstrated by some of the most recent launches of innovative applicators and tools. There are new brushes in ergonomic shapes, made with new types of fibers; manicure tools with stand-out decorations; and sponges made from innovative materials to provide more functional benefits.

Artis is one new brand paving the way in the applicator category. Its futuristic-looking brush designs offer greater functionality, and took several years to develop while working with Taiki.

Artis’ founder, Matthew Waitesmith, says, “Artis speaks to the consumers’ desire to express themselves with more than one type of makeup brush collection, with the introduction of the new Fluenta line. Gone are the days of only having the choice of a cosmetics tool that looks and performs like every other one on the market. Artis provides beautiful design choices, which also deliver high performance results.”

Doris Dalton, founder, Doll 10 Beauty, is also pioneering a new type of brush applicator—the blendSmart Rotating Brush, supplied in part by Garrett Hewitt. “The timing is right for the applicator to evolve. It’s like the perfect storm, because the technology is there, as well as the consumer demand for better tools,” she explains.

Other brands are using stylish decorations to transform ordinary beauty tools and stand apart from competitors. Tweezerman offers tweezers, eyelash curlers, and nail files decorated in vibrant colors and patterns, and the company has recently launched a new collection, Brush IQ. Revlon is continuing its partnership with fashion designer Marchesa to create memorable patterns that adorn its manicure tools,. The kit shown was designed by Anthem NY, and won the GDUSA 2015 American Package Design Awards.

Suppliers are stepping up to the plate as well, and making new launches possible. They’re working with brands to develop advanced materials, fibers and the manufacturing capabilities to deliver the next generation of innovative applicators and beauty tools to store shelves. 

Suppliers Spot Trends and Offer Brands New Solutions

Suppliers have heard a number of demands in recent months for different types of applicators and tools from brand marketers, and are meeting these demands with new innovations. 

One factor contributing to the recent increased interest in applicators is the fact that  consumers are striving to achieve professional results when they apply makeup, says Maurizio Arletti, export manager, Pennellifaro. “Brands want to deliver the applicators and tools to help women achieve different looks at home,” Arletti says, explaining that the trend is due to several reasons, one of which is a growing desire among women to learn to use foundations and concealers to correct skin issues.

“There are new cosmetic products that are specifically made to camouflage, contour and sculpt,” says Arletti. “With this, there is a need for brands to create brushes that meet a makeup product’s functionality, which we offer. Imperfections on the skin are being corrected, but not by covering up—by enhancing a woman’s beauty. And the consumer must be able to achieve all this in a few easy steps,” he explains.

“Contouring makeup is a big trend in the marketplace,” says Jim Perry, CEO/president, Taiki. “These products typically come recommended with a specific brush for blending or highlighting.” In response, Taiki has developed a line of brushes that support better contouring, including brushes designed to highlight different areas of the face, as well as brushes that help to blend, to achieve a dramatic look.

“Gone are the days when you purchased a simple eye shadow or face brush,” says Sandra Hutson,  sales and marketing director, Topline Products. “Now, consumers are looking for products to help achieve a specific look, such as perfect contouring, or a sultry smoky eye. Consumers are also looking for brush and applicator solutions that help save time—for example, double-ended brushes that provide multiple functions, as well as dual-fiber brush heads that can work with both liquids and powders,” Hutson says.

Anisa Telwar, president, Anisa, agrees, saying, “Brands—and consumers—are demanding that applicators perform better, and are always looking for a more functional fiber. But a brand also wants the ‘story’—a creative design, and a special feature to give the consumer added value,” she says. 

One way to give a consumer added value is with a sponge or puff that provides dual uses, for multiple benefits, such as achieving two different looks.  For instance, one side of a sponge applicator for foundation might be designed to pick up less product, which will deliver more sheer coverage, while the other can be used for a full coverage application, according to Steven Ostrower,  president, The Penthouse Group.

“We have developed dual sided puffs and sponges in several new options, including a flocked surface on one side; laminating two materials together in one applicator; and using innovative barrier materials on one side,” says Ostrower.

Steven Wilson, managing partner, strategy/business development, Phoenix Global Partners, says that puffs and sponges are very important, even as brushes continue to dominate the market. “We provide a full range of powder puffs, brushes, foam-tipped applicators, sifters, and cotton pads, but our specialty is sponges,” he says. 

The continued growth in the popularity of all types of applicators can be attributed to performance, according to Lesley Gadomski, business development officer, Fusion Packaging. “Applicators offer targeted application that is convenient, mess-free and generally more hygienic than applying product with the hands,” she says. “For these reasons, we will continue to see a growing demand,” she adds.

Julia Kiener, marketing manager, Geka, is seeing an increased interest from brands looking for new technologies in applicator designs, especially for mascara. “Choosing the right applicator is critical in connecting a brand’s desired claim for a mascara formula. The product’s result is directly linked to the technology of the mascara’s applicator and wiper, and how it correlates with the formulation. This is much more of a focus now, so we have been investing in more equipment, as well as the resources to better respond to market demand,” says Kiener.

In addition to mascara, Kleiner says that in recent months they have had more requests for eyebrow applicators. “In response, we offer different types of brushes to comb the brows, from small twisted wire to molded styles, plus we are investing in new designs.”
New types of lip products are also driving applicator innovation, according to Adrian Hook, vice president sales, Brivaplast. “We are hearing a number of requests for lip gloss applicators, to complement different types of formulations, from creams to liquids. We have been developing lip gloss applicators in new materials, with various flock lengths, and in innovative shapes to meet these demands,” he says.   

Reinventing The Brush

Brands have been working with suppliers to develop new types of applicators in response to consumer needs and demand—and as a result, are bringing new innovations to market.

Doll 10 Beauty has just launched its blendSmart Rotating Makeup Brush. “We’ve already seen an increase in the demand for skin care devices that take makeup off, but no one has developed an electronic device for makeup application until now,” says the brand’s founder, Dalton, calling this “the world’s first automatic makeup brush.”

The rotating brush enables anyone to blend like a pro, for a streak-free finish that rivals the look of airbrush makeup. Dalton often appears on QVC, selling the brand during on-air demos.

The brush has an automated handle powered by a lithium battery, and the attached brush head rotates 360 degrees. There are three different interchangeable brush heads in different shapes, for different types of makeup.

“This brush was three years in the making,” Dalton says. “I can’t take credit for the spinning technology—the idea already existed,” she explains. Worth Beauty owns the technology and manufactures the product for Doll10. Garrett Hewitt International produces the interchangeable brushes, which are assembled onto the handle. Dalton collaborated with both suppliers to perfect the final design before launch. Making sure the brush functioned as intended was one challenge. “We had to make sure the brush’s rotation applied makeup to the skin, and didn’t remove it. We also had to make sure it didn’t spin out of control. We decided on a rotation of 190 revolutions per minute,” explains Dalton. 

As mentioned earlier, another brand “reinventing the brush” is Artis. Waitesmith founded the brand, driven by the desire to create beauty tools that combine ergonomics with design, functionality and performance to give consumers a more efficient way to apply makeup.

He explains: “I wanted to innovate a category that was critical, but stagnant—makeup brushes. That was a challenge to myself, and drove me to throw out all past assumptions of what made a ‘good’ makeup brush, to create a new, modern definition—one that put the end user first, and not just the professional makeup artist.”

Formerly, Whitesmith was a senior executive at MAC Cosmetics, as well as a freelance makeup artist for more than 15 years. The brand’s debut luxury brush collection launched last year.

The new Artis Fluenta Collection just launched last month. The Latin word Fluenta means flowing water and the brush handles were inspired by the shape of “cascading water over an edge, like a waterfall,” says Waitesmith. The brush handles are weighted, and feature an elongated neck, which gives users greater control and flexibility. They have a metallized finish, and a matte black textured section for gripping.

The brush heads are made with the trademarked CosmeFibre—and the largest brush in the collection, Oval 10, contains more than 250,000 individual fibers. “We developed and engineered CosmeFibre with the help of several manufacturers to incorporate specific attributes that enhance the pickup and application of makeup and cosmetic products,” explains Waitesmith. “CosmeFibre is proprietary, and trademarked to Artis. Currently, it is utilized in our brushes by Taiki USA,” he says. 

Various resins were tested before Artis’ initial launch, and Waitesmith says the greatest challenge was having to develop a new manufacturing process to create the brushes’ fiber bundles. “My handle designs required us to create new ways to shape and attach fiber bundles to the handles, which meant leaving behind the old fashioned wood stick handles with metal ferrules of the past,” he explains.

Waitesmith wanted to ensure that the brushes outperformed all others, in terms of pickup and distribution of various types of makeup formulations. “Each brush style has a particular ‘formula’ for the fiber bundles that enhances application of a particular type of product. I tested with makeup artist friends, models—and even some celebrities before finalizing the specifications,” he says.

Another new type of brush was developed by Cosmogen. It has an ergonomic handle that is extremely flexible—you can literally bend it into any position. It is available in single- or double-ended versions, in different sizes, plus, it is customizable.

More New Developments in Brush Fibers

There are lots of new innovations in fiber technologies for brushes. HCT Group is offering Satine brushes, which are made from a synthetic filament using its patented technology. “Satine filaments are ultra-soft, similar to squirrel hair, and are textured for cosmetics to easily latch onto, for a superior pick up ability, similar to goat hair,” says Nadine Yiang, director of business development, HCT’s Brush Division.

The team at HCT says that many of its customers are looking for new types of synthetic filaments. “In response, we are continually improving and expanding our synthetic filament library,” says Young.

Clerke, of Garrett Hewitt International, says that synthetic fiber technology has come a long way. “We are encouraging our customers to move to synthetic fibers if they are not already using them. The industry is moving quickly in this direction, and because the quality is so good now, there is no reason not to use synthetic,” he explains.

Clerke says that synthetic fibers work just as well as animal hair—plus, when a brand uses synthetic hair, they can say they are cruelty-free. “We can also closely replicate the features of animal hair, using synthetics. Natural hair fibers have a tapered tip, which makes them very soft at the tips. We offer this feature with synthetic hair, and we can also determine the length of the taper.

For example, it can slowly taper over a long portion of the fiber length, or it can be a short taper, keeping the diameter of the fiber the same until close to the end,” he explains.

“Different makeup applications require that the fibers have different characteristics, so we can customize each brush to match its use,” says Clerke. “Synthetic fibers can also be dyed any color, or we can blend two colors to make them look almost indistinguishable from natural hair,” he adds.

Garrett Hewitt International created the interchangeable brush heads for Doll 10’s rotating brush, using synthetic fibers. “Since they rotate on the skin, the brushes had to be very soft to be able to apply makeup without streaking. But they also had to be extremely durable. They also needed to fulfill a few other very unique requirements to work effectively with this new technology. After a lot of experimenting, synthetic fibers were the clear choice to satisfy all the criteria,” Clerke explains.

Another supplier that is offering new types of brush applicators is Pennellifaro. Its Dual Fibre Makeup Brushes were each designed to a different type of makeup application, including foundation base, concealing, contouring and eye color. “The brushes combine the characteristics of two types of filaments in different lengths, which work well with makeup that has a softer texture.

The size selection, combined with our curved and oblique cuts, have been designed to adapt to all facial areas including the nose, around the eyes, eyelids and cheekbones,” explains Arletti.

New in Mascara Brushes

Mascara brushes are traditionally available in styles made from twisted wires, or newer styles in molded silicone.

Geka has recently launched four new twisted wire brushes, each made from a new fiber. “We used our patented technologies for cutting, including Hypno and Siam, to create twisted wire brushes that have volume reservoirs and shapes that deliver unique performance characteristics,” explains Christian Hauger, executive vice president, business development/R&D Geka.

For example, Geka’s helical cut, with its patented SEPA treatment, shapes the fiber tips in a way to drastically improve lash separation. “This feature is often requested, and we invested in new technologies for combining the corresponding manufacturing steps with state-of-the-art equipment built in-house. We can now offer more capacity to provide a greater number of options for different brush designs,” explains Hauger.

Sponges Designed for Greater Functionality

A sponge is another type of applicator that is offered in various materials, and depending on the material as well as its shape, it will deliver a different type of makeup application.

Qosmedix has launched a new Mini Blending Sponge Set, which contain two applicators that are just the right size and shape to follow facial contours, to more easily reach the smaller areas around the eyes and nose. The retail-ready set, which is available for private label, includes a purple mini oblong blending sponge and a pink mini slanted sponge tip attached to an applicator brush. The sponges are made from polyurethane foam, and are ideal for applying creams, lotions, powders and gel formulations. 
Phoenix Global Partners says that due to the increased interest by brands in “natural” products and skin care benefits, it is offering a new line of sponge applicators called Natural Infusions. The line includes a non-latex, polyurethane sponge that is infused with Vitamin E. “The infusion is performed via a patented process and imparts a very soft and luxurious feel to the sponge. An added benefit is that the sponges are manufactured in the U.S. Future products will feature additives such as collagen,” explains Steven A. Wilson, managing partner, strategy & business development, Phoenix Global Partners.

The Penthouse Group is offering a new type of non-yellowing sponge—its Heat Pressed Tera Venus. “Our Tera Venus is the first and only non-yellowing luxury cosmetic foam in the world, and it is patented in the U.S. and in Japan,” says Ostrower. “This sponge is perfect for liquid and crème formulas,” he adds.

The new Tera Venus has a heat press treatment on one side. “We are able to seal one side of the sponge and create a luxurious skin-like texture that inhibits absorption of the product,” he explains. “This creates less product waste and allows the consumer to apply and blend with the alternate side of the sponge,” he adds.

The Penthouse Group has also created a unique V-shaped buffing sponge, which allows the user to apply product onto the most hard-to-reach areas of the face. “We are able to offer the V-shaped buffed edge at no up-charge by automating the buffing process in our manufacturing facilities,” says Ostrower.

P&G recently chose The Penthouse Group’s new Silicon Puff applicator for its new CoverGirl Ultra Smooth Foundation. “Cover Girl’s formula required an applicator material with strict product compatibility criteria. The puff’s unique concave shape with an ergonomic button centered on the top gives the user a perfect applicator to achieve a smooth and flawless finish. Marketing studies have proven that this Silicon Applicator is the “hero” of the package, which enables the end user to achieve the intended results of this new product,” adds Ostrower.

Eco-Friendly Features

Several suppliers are offering applicator options for brands that are looking for eco-friendly features, which is increasingly important to both retailers and consumers.

Natural latex is a sustainable, renewable material, and KTT Enterprises will soon offer a sponge made entirely from the material. The supplier says its R&D team is working on developing an all-natural latex sponge. “Our natural latex is tapped from the Hevea Brasiliensis rubber tree on carefully selected plantations near the equator,” explains Nancy J. Coffey, CEO, KTT Enterprises.

“When available, this sponge will be one of the ‘greenest’ available to the industry and considered one of the most eco-friendly on the market,” she says.  

KTT also produces an SBR applicator sponge, which is a combination of natural latex and synthetic latex. Coffey explains that in choosing a blend like this, “you get the best of both worlds.” Natural latex has a luxurious feel, but synthetic materials often deliver more functional benefits.

“Blended latex can be compared to a gold wedding band,” Coffey explains, saying that no one has a wedding band made entirely from 24 karat gold. “It would be too soft, and might even bend. The better option is an 18 karat gold ring, where the gold is mixed with another more durable metal. The ring will have the look and feel of pure gold, but will be less vulnerable to damage and wear.”

KTT Enterprises operates the only facility in North America that manufactures cosmetic grade SBR latex foam, and it’s made in the U.S. This blend is still ‘green’ because SBR is latex-based, and so is biodegradable, as opposed to plastic-based.

How does KTT’s SBR latex foam perform? “It is ideal for non-oil based makeup, and it’s an excellent replacement for NBR sponges as the industry moves away from heavier, oil-based makeup,” says Coffey. KTT makes its SBR sponge in various shapes such as rounds and wedges, and its qualities include superior pickup, payoff and feel, says Coffey.

Looking for a ‘green’ mascara brush? Geka offers “GreenQueen.” It is made from a “Green Line” fiber that is based on 100% renewable raw material from the castor oil plant. The supplier recently won the “Wall of Eco-Beauty Edition 2015” award at Cosmopack in Bologna for this brush.

The Penthouse Group recently developed an “eco powder puff’ for one of its top customers. It is made from unbleached cotton with natural cotton muslin for back ing.  “Additionally, we are able to manufacture this puff in our New York factory to meet this client’s requirement for made in USA branding,” adds Ostrower.

Taiki also offers a ‘green’ option—the Tafre brush line, which is 37% plant-based. It is also cruelty-free, and 100% free of animal hair. “These unique brushes were engineered to outperform natural hair brushes and offer superior pick up and payoff for both powder and liquid products while at the same time offering antimicrobial protection,” says Perry, CEO, Taiki.

Pennellifaro offers a ‘green’ option as well. It offers a line of brushes with wood handles, made from FSC-certified wood. These can be customized with a brand’s logo. “We have also developed a very precise 3D printing technology, which firmly holds the decoration and ensures resistance in contact with external agents. It is considered an eco-friendly technology because it does not involve the use of a solvent,” explains Arletti. 

Dispensing Tips for Skin Care

Some suppliers are using specific skin care products—or a product’s benefit—as the inspiration, or starting point, for developing a unique applicator that will deliver the results a brand requires. For many skin care products, the applicator is part of the package—as a dispensing tip.

Topline recently worked with Living Proof, for its Neotensil Reshaping Tool. “Our aim was to create an applicator that provided maximum control and consistent application pressure around the contour of the eye to help reduce congestion and puffiness. We used a patented technology to create a ‘cool-touch’ tip which minimized friction to ensure smooth and even application of the two formulations in the kit,” Hutson explains.

Another brand Topline recently worked with is Coty’s Sally Hansen, to launch its 18K Gold Cuticle Eraser. “For a product with such a strong name, we had come up with a really special package and applicator,” says Hutson. “We featured a squeezable tube with a silicone spatula applicator tip which perfectly applies the exfoliating and nourishing cuticle treatment. We included a built-in massager into the cap which is used to push back the cuticles so that the consumer really has an all-in-one solution,” she explains.

Fusion specializes in applicators that function as dispensing tips for skin care products—and its new designs were created with specific areas of the face in mind. “We recently launched our line of Direct Effect Airless Applicators, which includes three ergonomic, multi-sensory applicator styles – Single Rollerball Airless, Dual Rollerball Airless, and Curved Tip Airless,” says Fusion’s Gadomski. The Curved Tip Airless recently won the 2015 AmeriStar Cosmetic Package of the Year Award.

“We designed these with the end user in mind. They were developed to precisely contour to the delicate under eyes, lip contour, and forehead for clean, convenient direct application,” says Gadomski. 

The applicators combine a unique blend of materials, such as PP and TPE, which allows for the product to glide across the face, the supplier says, which is important because binding or sticking can cause micro-tearing and stress to the skin’s dermis layer.

Shaped To Deliver Specific Benefits

The texture of an applicator will often make all the difference when it comes to applying a skin care product —and Anisa has several new silicone options, with both smooth and textured surfaces. The textured applicators come in various shapes, and have raised surfaces such as dots, stripes and wavy patterns.

“These textured surfaces help the skin to absorb the active ingredients in the formulation, by stimulating the surface of the skin,” says Telwar, the company’s founder. 

Anisa’s new treatment applicator collection for skincare also includes smooth silicone tips, in shapes designed to mimic the curves of your fingertips. “Cleanse” has a tip as wide as three fingers, and is ideal for cleansing and mosturizing products. “Mask” is as wide as two fingers, and is best for masks and exfoliating products. “Protect” mimics the shape of your index finger, and is designed with a pointed tip for smaller areas and around the curves of your face. “Conceal” mimics the shape of your ring finger, and is best for applying serums and creams to the most delicate areas of the face.

Pennellifaro has a new Tip and Blend Foundation Brush that has a round shape, which is designed to reach every curve of the user’s face. “When developing this brush, we focused on dosing the right amount of foundation, to deposit it around the most difficult areas of the face, such as the eyes. The brush has synthetic hair, is extremely silky, and delivers a uniform application,” says Arletti.

The brush also has a dome portion, to hold a small amount of a liquid or cream product. “The dome portion of the brush enables you to spread the product using circular movements,” adds Arletti.

The shape of a lemon was the inspiration for Brivaplast’s new lip gloss applicator called Lemon Flock. “It has a shape similar to a lemon, with a pretty tip designed for precision,” says Hook of Brivaplast.

Brivaplast also offers a range of different flocked textures that can be specified for different types of formulations. “We offer different shapes and textures ideal for a wide range of formulas, from gloss to less liquid bulks —and for skin care products as well,” says Hook.

One example is the supplier’s Nef flock, which is designed to work well with lip and cheek products. This applicator can also be used as a dispensing tip as well. 

What’s Next?

Suppliers are already thinking ahead, predicting what the next formulation trends will be—and coming up with innovative applicators that might even inspire the development of new formulations.

“We’re working on several new initiatives that not only include the classical ‘dip-in-brush’ for mascara, but include other systems as well,” says Geka’s Hauger.

Topline’s Hutson says the company is developing a new range of brushes that are ideal for women who are short on time—and in response to the latest cosmetic formulation developments. “Hybrid, glossy and long-wear gel formulas are becoming more popular,” Hutson adds. “We are developing applicators that help to apply these types of formulations more easily and more efficiently,” she explains. 

FM Brush Company is developing new types of brushes to pair with new types of skin care products. “We are constantly perfecting innovative blends of synthetics and natural fibers to achieve the most effective brush to complement the newest cosmetics on the market,” explains Veronica Towey, director of marketing, FM Brush Company. She says, “New cosmetic and skin care products have distinctive sensory profiles and textures. Our facility in Thailand works closely with our suppliers to explore materials that meet the needs of multifunctional skin care products.”

There are some products that aren’t new—but are typically sold without applicators—and suppliers say they could be applied more effectively with an applicator such as a brush or sponge.

“BB and CC creams are all too often applied with bare hands,” says Pennellifaro’s Arletti.  If applied with a brush, a user will achieve a level of coverage that looks more homogeneous. Since these creams are quite thick, the use of a specific type of brush can also render them more effective,” he adds.

Anisa’s Telwar wants all body products to be packaged with an applicator. “Your arms, legs and neck—every part of your body needs the same attention as the face gets. We have been discussing this, and how to use applicators for the whole body to provide benefits, such as even skin tone,” she explains. Telwar adds, “We need more conversations about this, to make sure we are giving women all the tools they need.