Luxe Pack Monaco: A Magnetic Attraction

As the prestige beauty market continues on its robust path, more than 8,650 visitors—up 2% over last year—traveled to Luxe Pack Monaco on October 21-23, for insight into the latest packaging trends. From alternative materials to intriguing shapes; ‘smart’ packaging to sophisticated finishing; sustainability to sound; delicate mists to luxurious foam—more than 450 exhibitors did not disappoint.

This year the record-breaking show proved to be even more international than ever, with an increase in foreign visitors, in particular, from The Americas (up 50% from Latin America, up 25% from USA-Canada).

Nathalie Grosdidier, managing director, Luxe Pack, told Beauty Packaging that there were 50 more exhibitors at this 28th edition than at last year’s—in total, 80 new suppliers. A couple of additional areas had been converted to booth space to accommodate demand.

Upon entering the Grimaldi Center, one couldn’t help but notice the tremendous array of cardboard boxes and elaborate papers and, indeed, Grosdidier said paper and board was the most dominant category for 2015. This was followed by plastic, then metal and glass.

What were some of the standout trends? Grosdidier said she had noted “more and more technology, electronics, “smart” packaging, even temperature monitoring of critical products. She said there were also lots of new finishing techniques as well as giftware materials including French porcelain jars from Bernardaud and Limoges. As always, many suppliers were presenting sustainable solutions. Grosdidier commented that there had been “real progress” made in terms of sustainable development, with packaging manufacturers very often incorporating this goal beginning with the R&D phase.

Supplier Collaborations

Luxe Pack Monaco’s opening this year coincided with several exhibitors at the show announcing collaborative efforts. In part, this marked the increasing demand by brands for global suppliers that can meet regional needs.

U.S.-based Arkay Packaging, which serves global markets on its own, announced an agreement with Model, another worldwide player that has regional suppliers. Together, the two family-owned companies have 200 years of combined experience. Now, with collaborative offices in New York, Geneva and Paris—and customization options and a consistency of quality of brand image—they can increase their service to clients around the world.

Topline Products has been a strong competitor in North America and Asia, while Texen has been a power in Europe. At Luxe Pack, Topline announced its acquisition by PSB Industries Group, and as of January 2016, the company name will change to Topline Products PSB Industries. Topline specializes in product development, creating innovative packaging solutions for beauty brands. PSB Industries Group is involved in four markets—beauty, pharma, food and lighting. One of its three core businesses—Texen—serves the beauty packaging market. Texen formerly acquired C+N Packaging.

Arcade Beauty also announced a partnership with another Luxe Pack exhibitor, taking a 30% stake in Easy-snap, a Bologna-based supplier, and creator of the patented one-hand opening and dispensing unit dose. Arcade’s senior vice president, global marketing, Chris Payne told Beauty Packaging that they make billions of samples each year for the premium-deluxe market. He said Easysnap helps in offering a full line of solutions, and can be made in various sizes for creams, lotions, serums, oils, hair products and makeup. Arcade acquired several Easysnap production lines that will be placed in Arcade Beauty production facilities, worldwide, to better serve customers in the cosmetic and beauty segments.  
  
Combining fine glass with airless, Luxe Pack Monaco exhibitors Pochet Group and Samhwa Plastic announced their 50/50 partnership centered on Pure Drop, a high-end airless pump for the super premium skin care sector. The project combines Samhwa’s technical knowhow in airless with Pochet’s expertise in combining decorative materials and technology for a luxurious package.

Cartons and Papers

As mentioned earlier, this category held the largest representation at Luxe Pack Monaco this year. From the extraordinary detailed papers at Takeo, including one produced for Chanel with fine, detailed feather embossing, to paper made from leather waste at Favini, the possibilities seemed endless and exciting.

In its new, prominent location, in the center of Hall Verriere, Neenah Packaging displayed a wide range of stock and custom paperboard options. The company’s acquisition of FiberMark has further expanded its folding board offerings. From “green” and “PCR” choices to luxurious coatings and embossings, Neenah presented a wide range of possibilities. Of particular interest was an innovative promotional “attaché case,” that housed several other pieces—all designed to show how using a multitude of papers and printing with unique, premium paper can extend a company’s branding.

Iggesund Paperboard was highlighting its flagship product Invercote, and said it is now expanding distribution in the U.S. With increasing interest in Invercote from brand owners on the West Coast, the Sweden-based premium paperboard manufacturer and decorator has established inventory and sheeting capabilities in Pomona, CA, with the objective of making Invercote readily available for quick response. Invercote is manufactured using a multi-layer construction, which means that it will not crack on the fold; neither with nor against the grain—and it tells a strong environmental sustainability story.

Metsä Board showed its natural paperboards made for packaging luxury products sustainably, while enhancing brand values. Its range includes products especially developed for the addition of special features that attract the eye, as well as security devices important for anti-counterfeiting. Metsä Board also presented its litholamination portfolio, gathering together all of its paperboards that produce the finest results using this technology for high-end packaging.

Upcycling was the key word at Favini, known for using raw materials to produce innovative packaging for luxury goods. This year, they presented Remake, a paper that includes fibers obtained from the leather-making processes. The paper is produced with 25% by-product from the leather goods industry, 30% FSC-certified post-consumption recycled cellulose, and 45% FSC-certified virgin cellulose fiber. According to Favini, the resultant luxurious, recyclable and 100% biodegradable paper offers excellent print and conversion performance, making it suited for a wide range of applications, from brochures and cards to shopping bags and packaging. In addition, the leather particles that are visible on the surface of the paper give it a distinctive look and a soft, velvety feel.

Dapy, which showcased the “Luxe of the Luxe” with packaging projects done for brands including the House of Sillage—featuring zinc alloy with special finishes such as rose gold, and Swarovski stones hand set like fine jewelry—also introduced a new ecological carton called AiryPak. Pierre-Yves Azuelos explained that this patented concept uses un-pressed gray board and no glue. The material is hollow and thus, up to 50% lighter than “traditional set up boxes.”

Packaging for the Senses

Magnets, clicks, holograms, exquisite papers, lustrous metals, gleaming glass and precise and intricate designs—all were highlights of the show. With increased competition and savvy consumers, perhaps more than ever, it’s the details that count when it comes to winning brand loyalty—and exhibitors offered packaging pleasures meant to engage consumers on a number of sensorial levels.

Magnetic details stood out with enticing sounds and features that were indicators of luxury: boxes that click shut; caps that pop on and immediately align; and compacts with a satisfying closure.

At Technicaps, new standard caps featured a magnet inside, which immediately lines up with the bottle and presents a delightful sound to the ear. Numerous decorative effects are available. The customer can choose the color of the collar; gold and silver are standard.

Cosmogen’s new skin care ritual highlights a magnetic ball. Attract One boasts a plastic applicator topped with a metal ball for a cooling—or warming—sensorial cream application. Stimulating and hygienic, it is currently in production and scheduled for launch in the first quarter of 2016. (Please see video.)

At HCP Packaging, managing director Jackie Mantle showed Beauty Packaging a wide range of offerings, including their Autograph magnetic compact. Also of interest was a whole new mini collection—portable, for every little need. Inspired by amusement park rides, the Upbeat Collection for autumn/winter 2016-17 features primary, bright colors—fun and playful—with shiny and matte finishes and vibrant screen-printed designs and short messages screen printed on the mirrors. Mantle also told us, “Men’s is a big, big story.”

(Please see sidebars for additional examples of packaging that uses magnets.)

Glass Shines

Glass always shines at Luxe Pack Monaco, for the role it plays in prestige fragrance, and many of the top manufacturers were showing their latest innovations.

Coverpla launched two new bottles to coincide with Luxe Pack Monaco: the Parme bottle in 50- and 100ml; and the Twist, with one flat portion where the brand can put its name. Both are available with Coverpla’s many interchangeable caps.

At SGD’s booth, Sheherazade Chamlou, vice president of sales and marketing, SGD North America, told Beauty Packaging that they had seen “a good turnout by U.S. customers.” At SGD, she said, “Everything is about innovation in glass and decoration.”

She said they were getting “a lot of demand from customers for tactile and sensorial packaging.” In addition to fragrance bottles, much interest is focused on skin care. In this vein, SGD offers inside engraving of skin care jars. The jar’s base is mechanically polished so it’s completely flat, explained Chamlou, adding, “Fine engraving in the mold is very popular.” SGD’s new generation of premium, recycled glass, Neo Infini, is clear and brilliant, and composed of 90% recycled materials; it received Luxe Pack in Green’s award for best green packaging. Chamlou also said that brands are investing more in decoration, illustrated by the new Kenzo fragrance, with a totem silkscreen, and the new Bulgari bottle. 

Estal Doblealto Perfumery presented an attractive, unique and functional visual effect in glass, ideal for skin care and fragrance. Four different bottle designs feature a hollow where the brand can put its logo and name. Doblealto bottles are characterized by having the lower region visually comprised of two parts. This double base (which acts as a podium) increases the facing, singularity and presence and perceived value of the product.

In addition to the many beautiful fragrance bottles on display at Bormioli Luigi, Olga Bursac, vice president sales and marketing, showed Beauty Packaging some of the glassmaker’s latest innovations. In pressed glass, they have invented a glue that adheres pressed glass pieces together, so that three components look like one solid piece. With the seamless transition between base and bottle, it looks like one piece. Bursac said this glass on glass gluing gives designers the freedom to create with shapes. She also showed us their new Eco Jars, made of very thin, sturdy glass in different shapes, for a 60% reduction in typical glass weight.

Special Delivery

Applicators and dispensers continue to take on increased importance and value in the luxury market, both in how the product is delivered and in how consumers interact with the product.

Sarah Eaves, marketing team leader, Quadpack Group, showed Beauty Packaging a number of new packages including a pump dispenser for luxurious foam. The foamer has been constructed with three fine meshes, and the liquid formula is forced through each one in order to obtain smaller bubbles. The resulting foam is therefore velvety soft rather than soapy, more voluminous, and spreads easily on the skin, she explained. In addition, Eaves said the richness of the foam lasts longer before turning back into liquid. The mesh foamer is ideal for facial cleansers, self-tanning products and hair products. The bottle is colored to match clients’ needs, with a dispensing tip that matches the color of the bottle. A colored ring circled Quadpack’s pan sticks, which Eaves said, “are coming back into trend” (for blush, concealer, etc). The supplier was also launching a metal dropper at the show.

To address the trend in cosmetic sprays, Aptar Beauty + Home launched Mist’erious, a new spray for facial skin care that also combines sensory and efficiency. Aptar describes the new spray application as “exuding pure lavishness and finesse, for an ultra-luxurious sensation.” In addition, Aptar said its “smooth and adjustable actuation provides the perfect dosage control for a sophisticated skin care routine.” It also provides a very fine, practically imperceptible mist that is quickly absorbed for instant moisturization. The long and continuous spray is said to be up to three times longer than a traditional spray.

When it came to fragrance sampling, Les Perfumables offered scented ceramic sample “sticks” that can be customized in any shape. An alternative to testers and blotters, the supplier said the sticks tell a fragrance story so people hang onto it. At only 38-68 cents for a sample pack, they said that it is “quite a competitive price.”

Deco Delights

From glass bottles to plastic tubes, decorative techniques captivated attention throughout the many halls.

ITW Foils had provided transparent foil for the caps for Paco Rabanne’s fragrance—making them appear prism-like, 3D.  They had also done hot stamping on glass—which they said is a solution to ceramic inks. A new heat transfer combined silver effects and organic colors for direct application on glass and plastic. The advantage is the low temperature used. Both use less energy so it’s economical and eco-friendly, using aluminum instead of gold.

CTL Packaging showcased its digital technology. The company’s digital offset press can print every tube differently—so each can be coded—or personalized in some way. CEO Manuel Diez told Beauty Packaging that HP digital machinery is “great for limited editions, SPF and photographic capabilities,” among other applications.

Geka was celebrating its 90th birthday with the Celebration Collection—five different products each with a unique decoration. Julia Kiener, marketing manager, also showed us the supplier’s “Sandwich Technology” for molded brushes, once exclusive to L’Oréal, but now available to other customers. The brush uses a hard material for the core to provide stability, and a softer material for the bristles, so it’s easy on lashes. Kiener also explained Geka’s new way to 3D-print brushes. Filigreed brushes are printed with a 3D printer. The advantage? Before investing in a pilot mold, the 3D print reflects 80% of the final product.

At MM Packaging, holographic hot foil called attention to premium beauty packaging, especially with the interruption of spot flocking and soft touch.

Eye-catching and magical POP displays at COMactive, such as one that lets you project holograms over an entire counter display using holographic film and plug & play with a screen can project any image for any product. A fluttering butterfly effect was quite captivating.

Warmth of Wood

Wood has clearly become a packaging material of choice for many brands, and a number of suppliers at Luxe Pack Monaco were highlighting their offerings.

Pujolasos featured a number of wood-enhanced products including “plates” on the glass bottle for the Solo Loewe fragrance. Nail polish caps and an attractive tri-level color compact were also attractive.

Airless Awareness

Airless may be more popular than ever with consumers now more aware of the technology.

At Lumson, Federica Bonaldi, showed Beauty Packaging the Envers (“inverse”) airless system with a pouch inside the jar. She explained that it’s a new shape, a new idea—as the top is the pump/actuator. The 50ml jar is filled from the top with a locking system, and there are two types of applicators—one that’s flush and one that sticks out. The “tamper-proof ” airless system provides maximum protection against contamination from external sources.

Same Place, Different Time of Year

Another big announcement at this year’s show was that next year’s event will be held a month earlier. The 29th edition of Luxe Pack Monaco will run September 21-23, 2016.




Packaging Award Winners

Here’s a look at a few standout products/packages that received Formes de Luxe 2015 Awards.

HCT Group was the proud recipient of three awards. One was for the Sephora Collection + Alexis Bittar Brush Set, a five-piece sculptural brush set, with an onyx black, custom brush stand embellished with gold lettering and Swarovski crystals. HCT handcrafted each brush head on a custom-shaped ferrule made from Zamac and electroplated in 24 karat gold, and utilizing fine sable hairs for the eye brushes and HCT Brushes’ satine filaments for the face brushes. The project used many of HCT Group’s capabilities and facilities.

HCT Group’s patented cooling tip technology, which incorporates the cooling effect of ceramic into the application of skin care products was a hit as used with Estée Lauder’s new Re-Nutriv Ultimate Contouring Eye Lift.

The tube for Abeille Royale Eye Sculpting Serum by Guerlain was engineered by HCT Group, with a custom tip that resembles a fingerprint made from palladium with precise tooling. The pale gold metallized cap and neck are also custom components.

Albéa received a Formes de Luxe 2015 Award in the makeup category for Guerlain’s Parure Gold compact, which uses Albéa’s patented Reveal opening mechanism. With the Reveal system, a sliding mechanism is activated as the case opens, drawing the pan backward to reveal the sponge so you can get to it with no need to lift the pan. The sleek lacquered case is enhanced with metallic gold edges, and features a magnetic closure system. 










Checking Out the Show Floor with Designer Marc Rosen

Excitement was in the air on Day One at Luxe Pack Monaco as I met up with internationally renowned packaging designer Marc Rosen for our annual tour of the show floor and an overall assessment of suppliers’ offerings.

The Fortyniners, a company based in Bologna, Italy, has it covered when it comes to cosmetic packaging, as they offer metals, plastics and cartons—and provide turnkey services. Decorative techniques—executed via an immersion process—especially caught our eye with effects such as leopard, wood and marble, resulting in stunning caps. Injection molding, adopted from an automotive decorator, produced translucent compacts through a clever mix of materials and colorants.

At Multi Packaging Solutions, sales director Willi Ringwald showed us a couple of beautiful, luxe cartons they recently produced for Coty—for Miu Miu and for Marc Jacobs Decadence. The Decadence carton features a flocked material with 3-color stamping. The complicated box for Miu Miu has blind embossing. Ringwald also showed us a new rigid setup box that’s foldable, so it ships flat, assembles easily and closes with a magnet. Another construction, the Click Box, used for Decleor, clicks shut without the use of a magnet, but makes the same appealing sound. Ringwald noted: “Five percent of selling power is the ear,” stressing the importance of “engaging all your senses.” multipackaging.

Magnetic closures were also a talking point at Seidel, where Dr. Andreas Ritzenhoff showed us how caps for brands including Acqua di Gio and Au Suvage snap on and go right to position, lining up for a luxury touch that doesn’t go unnoticed. Another interesting bottle here was a play on packaging forms, with a Puma fragrance bottle in the shape of a tube.

Pochet and its Qualipac and Solev branches always hold a prominent spot on the Luxe Pack Monaco show floor. In addition to the Pure Drop collaboration with Samhwa (mentioned elsewhere in this article), decorative techniques for fragrance and skin care packages received lots of attention. The bottle for Guerlain’s L’Homme Ideal made an impression with its even glass distribution, white spray and very flat shoulders, accomplished with a “special” process. A number of bottles highlighted facets, internal engraving and debossing techniques —all created for tactile appeal. Metallization and lacquering added luster and luxe to caps produced by Qualipac.

At Texen, we were intrigued with their use of a rarely seen “natural” material: horn. Genuine horn sourced from African buffalo—which are not an endangered species—had been used to develop compacts, caps and cases. A slew of upscale decorative techniques include a screened deco that gave the appearance of marble.