Jamie Matusow, Editor-in-Chief04.28.16
It’s the stuff movies are made of—a stereotypical Los Angeles scene. A gleaming white DeLorean pulls up. The gullwing passenger door rises sideways and a gorgeous, tall blond woman dressed to the nines exits and strides gracefully up the Red Carpet toward the entrance of Quixote Studios in West Hollywood. Is it a feature film in the making? A glamorous fashion photo shoot? No—lights, camera… It’s MakeUp in Action LA.
With “MakeUp In” shows established in Paris, New York, Seoul and Sao Paulo, organizers decided to test the waters in California, the hotbed of some of today’s most innovative cosmetic brands. The February 3-4 gathering of industry executives differed slightly from other MakeUp In global events in that the conference sessions were given top billing, with two full days of workshops, roundtables and panel discussions designed to “start a discussion around major beauty categories.” A select group of 30 “top-level exhibitors” set up shop in two aisles of pop-up booths in an airy space adjacent to the conference rooms.
Sandra Maguarian, co-show manager, told Beauty Packaging: “MakeUp in Action in Los Angeles was our 16th event, and was the most challenging one to organize. In less than four months, we set up an intense program of conferences and workshops—and of course the exhibition side of the event. The latter was the easiest to organize as the 30 participating exhibitors were the ones absolutely convinced that the makeup market on the West Coast is the new place to be.”
Maguarian further expressed her satisfaction with the event’s premiere, saying: “The ambiance was friendly and professional, with a super high level of business at the booths. In general, all the components added up to a big success for LA.”
Spurring a Conversation
Workshops during the two days focused on four major categories of the cosmetics market, with each divided into two sub-sessions: one on the packaging side and one on the formulation side.
Recurring themes noted throughout the two days—between workshops, panels and speaking with exhibitors—were: consumer demand for customization of beauty products; brands’ thirst for new gestures for application and usage; and a trend toward “lips as the new nails.”
Interest in textural qualities for all makeup categories is capturing more interest than ever—and impacting the packaging, as well. As panelist Kate Helfrich, senior director, product development and marketing, Sephora, noted: “Texture has influenced the technical nature of packaging, in order to preserve integrity.”
Following is an overview of the packaging presentations.
In accessing the packaging for Eye, Lip, Nail and Face categories, Jean-Louis Mathiez, owner and founder of Cinqpats, took a somewhat unique approach. He had investigated patents that brands and suppliers had applied for in 2015, in order to get an idea of packaging-related innovation in the four areas. Diagrams and descriptions associated with the applications served as a discussion point for indicating potential innovative products that could stand out from those already on the market. It proved to be an interesting way to look at current thinking and future development. Mathiez explained that all information cited was a matter of public record. In his introduction, he told the crowd that 800 patents had been applied for in the makeup category in 2015. Global cosmetics leader L’Oréal applies for about 500 patents a year, according to Mathiez; 20% of these relate to packaging.
Workshop Packaging for Eyes
What’s happening as far as packaging in the Eyes category? Have we reached a saturation point for mascara? How long can it go on? How can every launch be new and patented and unique?
Mathiez said mascara remains “hot,” with no indication of slowing down. It is the No.1 product category for L’Oréal, which is the largest patent applicant in the area.
The idea of a rotating mascara has been around for 10 years, said Mathiez, mostly involving a battery with a rotating brush. As would be expected, L’Oréal continues to patent a rotating device, though in reality, the idea failed in the mass market and remains a work in progress.
A total of at least 21 patents for oscillating mascaras were applied for in 2008-2009; interest apparently waned in 2015, when two patents were applied for in the U.S. for vibrating, oscillating, rotating mascaras. L’Oréal has a number of patents for heated mascaras—but the tools face problems such as a difficulty in heating every time without burning the lashes—or creating too much residue. Some patents point to heating the bottle or the brush, or even microwave heating. A lot of solutions have been attempted. The Estée Lauder Companies keeps renewing patents for a mascara brush with micro heating modules. LVMH and Shiseido, too, are patenting ideas for components with push button heating and a brush that curves as it heats.
Mathiez noted, “The brush is always the attraction and the signature of the mascara,” and to this end, many patents were applied for regarding the shape of brushes. New designs ranged from a folding Christmas tree shape to piled discs.
To prevent the formulation from getting stiff, mascara-mixing systems have been proposed; a spring-loaded closure rather than a twist was revealed. L’Oréal patented a cake mascara with a roller brush applicator.
Discussion arose around mascara pens, which Mathiez said brands have been trying for 20 years. The difficulty has been in making it safe, airtight and—most important, hygienic.
An audience member suggested that there may be an opportunity in ethnic mascara products designed for specific needs, such as Hispanic consumers who need a special mascara product for short, thick, downward pointing lashes. In this case, a clear mascara can be useful to comb and gloss, as volume is not necessary.
Packaging for Lips
With a wide diversity of lip applicators, mechanisms and dispensers, what will be the next trend for lipsticks?
Mathiez explained that in this category, there are many different types of packaging all competing with one another. They are impacting the traditional twist mechanism, which is no longer dominant. Problems with non-wax traditional bullets—such as lipgloss in a bottle or tube—is that they can be subject to germs from dipping the applicator back into the bottle.
A number of new patents have been applied for over the last 10 years—from electric lipstick with a motorized battery (press a button for the bullet to go up and down) to pressing a button on the cap that heats the lipstick (a radiant heater on top of the lipstick applies the formulation like melted wax). One-handed lipsticks with tactile control have also appeared—push the button and the bullet pops out.
A sound, a click—all are important features, according to Mathiez, in making a brand’s product stand out among consumers.
But most important, he said, in any of the categories addressed, is developing a new gesture. This, he said, is what brands strive for most. “Everyone’s looking for the next gesture in lipstick,” said Mathiez.
Still, at an afternoon panel that discussed this point among others, Nicole Masson, vice president, product development at MAC Cosmetics, said, “Why try to improve the bullet which is already perfect—and MAC’s number one selling product, which has been around for 25 years?”
Who will come up with a new lipstick mechanism or a high-tech dispenser? Will someone be able to successfully put a liquid formulation into a traditional bullet?
A survey of patents and pending patents showed some creative thinking. A Nakamura U.S. patent, for example, was for a lip dispenser with cartridges and interchangeable tip applicators.
Companies were also working on extrusion of pasty formulas, which would be stiffer and so would not leak. L’Oréal has hundreds of patents for applicator tips. Alkos has a patent in France for a lip applicator with a cool zamac tip.
On the machine side, a lipstick machine has been designed to customize shades, bullets and textures in a retail setting.
Packaging for Nails
Is it possible to improve nail polish brushes? Is there a need for plastic bottles? Nail polish pens?
According to Mathiez, this may be the most difficult category in cosmetics packaging. The product typically has to be housed in glass bottles—and there’s basically a brush, a stem and a cap. There are not many patents pending in the nail category. A couple include double-touch brushes—like a normal brush but with two tips, so it holds more formula; and a brush that uses rods to deposit a drop of polish on nails, and then spreads. An option from AmorePacific looks and works like a syringe. Press the button and a brush comes out; release and the brush retracts. Still, there may be a problem with potential leakage. A nail painting aerosol from Fareva U.S. requires the user to apply a primer and then spray—the polish attaches only to the primer.
Outside of the bottle and the actual package, however, there has been a steady rise in nail art printing equipment and machines—all fueling consumer demand for customization. There’s even a patent on a portable box, so you can mix pigments and prepare polishes on the go.
L’Oréal has a patent for a cosmetic blending machine—not only for nail polish, but for foundation, concealer, tinted moisturizer and skin care.
Jean-Claude Le Joliff joined Mathiez at the workshop, and described innovative formulations such as textured nail enamels that use micro beads, woven fiber, glass and powders to add dimension. A thermal nail enamel varies in color according to nail temperature on the different areas of the nail, from bed to tip. A nail polish that was developed by college students changes color if the wearer is given a date rape drug.
Packaging for Face
What is the relationship between makeup and skin care? When is airless packaging necessary? This session seemed to draw the most interest, with the discussion covering packaging from airless to cushions. Do consumers understand what airless packaging is—and the function it serves?
Recent patents for face applicators and dispensers include a twist-and-lock compact for airtight protection and a hingeless compact with a diaphragm closure. More and more brands are using bulb or syringe droppers for viscous products such as foundation. The major advantage of this: A coveted new gesture for foundation application.
As with lipstick, more and more patents are surfacing for machines making custom products directly in stores so consumers can blend foundation colors or add skin care benefits.
There is even a machine that creates a grid of your face and offers advice on a full makeup application, so you can “get the look you want.”
At an afternoon roundtable, Bill Hughes, director global marketing and product development, BareMinerals, noted the role of customization in the Face category. “Due to ethnic diversity changing the face of the world, the Caucasian customer will be less than 50% of the total in 10 years.” So shade match is critical, he said.
Masson, from MAC, stressed that makeup artists have always customized people’s looks—to make features look lighter, denser, etc. “Now,” she said, “they’re letting people in on tips and tricks.”
Customization can also solve the problem of less shelf space in retail stores. To this end, Samantha Cutler, chief product development officer, Stila Cosmetics, said, “Stila is looking at more versatile shades—or mixing shades.”
Kate Helfrich, senior director, product development and marketing, Sephora, told the crowd, “There’s no choice but to customize.” As examples of products that offer customization benefits, she pointed to Cover Effects, which has foundation drops; and for lips, Virtual Reality.
Customization of packaging is also critical. Stila’s Cutler noted that brands need to make packaging their own, to attract consumers. “Everything is self-serve,” she said, “so the pack really needs to speak.”
The role of texture was also mentioned, as “a new ticket to admission to the market.” A sensorial aspect is also popular, as in Stila’s lip balm that gets a boost from peppermint oil.
Package Development
Of utmost concern is the interaction and compatibility between product and package.
Hughes emphasized the approach at BareEscentuals: “Products are developed in lock step with packaging to make sure they’re complementary—from very early on.”
Speaking about Stila, Cutler said, “In product development, package development can’t fail—or the consumer will not return. So the formulation has to work with the packaging.” Chicken or the egg? Cutler said, “More and more, packaging suppliers are working with formulators to bring a whole product to a brand.”
Hughes added: “Collaboration is key—and fun.”
Once again, conversation throughout the two days pointed to the critical role of packaging suppliers, who bear a great deal of the responsibility of bringing new ideas, componentry and gestures to the brands.
Another panel discussion, highlighting the California free spirit and cultural bent toward innovation, made this apparent. Ingrid Jackel, CEO of Yes To, had a message for packaging suppliers: Don’t provide cookie cutter presentations. Bring us real innovation.” She emphasized, “The suppliers should become partners and active players.”
Exhibitors Highlight the Trends
Visits to the exhibitors’ booths at MakeUp in Action added insight to the cosmetic categories and trends presented in the workshops and sessions. They also provided perspective on what brands are pursuing in regard to new launches for categories from Fragrance to Applicators.
At Verla, April Vignone spoke about the supplier’s dedicated Ecocert manufacturing facility within the facility. She said that organic formulations and fragrances are in high demand—that it’s an up and coming strong area. “We are creating unique packaging and building molds to hold these formulations. It’s all about sustainable packaging as well as ingredients,” said Vignone. Verla is also adding fragrance to powders and gels. For instance, in fragranced nail polishes, as the polish dries, the scent becomes apparent.
As usual, Taiki was focusing on the latest beauty tools it manufactures—brushes, sponges, applicators, puffs. The supplier uses synthetic fibers—which they say, “are the future, with consistency, quality, application and performance.” They developed their own fiber—Tafre—which has ionic silver extruded in the fiber.
At Oxygen, Musa Dias told Beauty Packaging: “Lips are the new nails.” From sophisticated decorations and metallic shine, to lip products combining color and treatment, it was a convincing story. “It’s not just lipstick and lipgloss anymore,” said Dias. “We are now hybridizing with lip treatments, lip scrubs, lip oils, lip plumpers, lip masks. Products have anti-aging, moisture-boosting benefits.”
In addition to liquids that prime and color, lip art with geometrics and 3D bling, gilt and shine, all created different effects. Multichromatic pigments cause eye shadow to change color when you turn to the light. As far as foundation and skin care, “Customers want to customize their applications, said Dias. “They want to mix tint into cream for a precise color base for more coverage.”
Bi-injected wipers for mascara or lipgloss packages were on display at Geka. The two materials—a rigid that keeps it on the bottle and a softer one that gives better wiping capabilities—make the package memorable. “It’s a different type of satisfaction,” explained Briana Espitalier, “the feel of luxury.”BP
With “MakeUp In” shows established in Paris, New York, Seoul and Sao Paulo, organizers decided to test the waters in California, the hotbed of some of today’s most innovative cosmetic brands. The February 3-4 gathering of industry executives differed slightly from other MakeUp In global events in that the conference sessions were given top billing, with two full days of workshops, roundtables and panel discussions designed to “start a discussion around major beauty categories.” A select group of 30 “top-level exhibitors” set up shop in two aisles of pop-up booths in an airy space adjacent to the conference rooms.
Sandra Maguarian, co-show manager, told Beauty Packaging: “MakeUp in Action in Los Angeles was our 16th event, and was the most challenging one to organize. In less than four months, we set up an intense program of conferences and workshops—and of course the exhibition side of the event. The latter was the easiest to organize as the 30 participating exhibitors were the ones absolutely convinced that the makeup market on the West Coast is the new place to be.”
Maguarian further expressed her satisfaction with the event’s premiere, saying: “The ambiance was friendly and professional, with a super high level of business at the booths. In general, all the components added up to a big success for LA.”
Spurring a Conversation
Workshops during the two days focused on four major categories of the cosmetics market, with each divided into two sub-sessions: one on the packaging side and one on the formulation side.
Recurring themes noted throughout the two days—between workshops, panels and speaking with exhibitors—were: consumer demand for customization of beauty products; brands’ thirst for new gestures for application and usage; and a trend toward “lips as the new nails.”
Interest in textural qualities for all makeup categories is capturing more interest than ever—and impacting the packaging, as well. As panelist Kate Helfrich, senior director, product development and marketing, Sephora, noted: “Texture has influenced the technical nature of packaging, in order to preserve integrity.”
Following is an overview of the packaging presentations.
In accessing the packaging for Eye, Lip, Nail and Face categories, Jean-Louis Mathiez, owner and founder of Cinqpats, took a somewhat unique approach. He had investigated patents that brands and suppliers had applied for in 2015, in order to get an idea of packaging-related innovation in the four areas. Diagrams and descriptions associated with the applications served as a discussion point for indicating potential innovative products that could stand out from those already on the market. It proved to be an interesting way to look at current thinking and future development. Mathiez explained that all information cited was a matter of public record. In his introduction, he told the crowd that 800 patents had been applied for in the makeup category in 2015. Global cosmetics leader L’Oréal applies for about 500 patents a year, according to Mathiez; 20% of these relate to packaging.
Workshop Packaging for Eyes
What’s happening as far as packaging in the Eyes category? Have we reached a saturation point for mascara? How long can it go on? How can every launch be new and patented and unique?
Mathiez said mascara remains “hot,” with no indication of slowing down. It is the No.1 product category for L’Oréal, which is the largest patent applicant in the area.
The idea of a rotating mascara has been around for 10 years, said Mathiez, mostly involving a battery with a rotating brush. As would be expected, L’Oréal continues to patent a rotating device, though in reality, the idea failed in the mass market and remains a work in progress.
A total of at least 21 patents for oscillating mascaras were applied for in 2008-2009; interest apparently waned in 2015, when two patents were applied for in the U.S. for vibrating, oscillating, rotating mascaras. L’Oréal has a number of patents for heated mascaras—but the tools face problems such as a difficulty in heating every time without burning the lashes—or creating too much residue. Some patents point to heating the bottle or the brush, or even microwave heating. A lot of solutions have been attempted. The Estée Lauder Companies keeps renewing patents for a mascara brush with micro heating modules. LVMH and Shiseido, too, are patenting ideas for components with push button heating and a brush that curves as it heats.
Mathiez noted, “The brush is always the attraction and the signature of the mascara,” and to this end, many patents were applied for regarding the shape of brushes. New designs ranged from a folding Christmas tree shape to piled discs.
To prevent the formulation from getting stiff, mascara-mixing systems have been proposed; a spring-loaded closure rather than a twist was revealed. L’Oréal patented a cake mascara with a roller brush applicator.
Discussion arose around mascara pens, which Mathiez said brands have been trying for 20 years. The difficulty has been in making it safe, airtight and—most important, hygienic.
An audience member suggested that there may be an opportunity in ethnic mascara products designed for specific needs, such as Hispanic consumers who need a special mascara product for short, thick, downward pointing lashes. In this case, a clear mascara can be useful to comb and gloss, as volume is not necessary.
Packaging for Lips
With a wide diversity of lip applicators, mechanisms and dispensers, what will be the next trend for lipsticks?
Mathiez explained that in this category, there are many different types of packaging all competing with one another. They are impacting the traditional twist mechanism, which is no longer dominant. Problems with non-wax traditional bullets—such as lipgloss in a bottle or tube—is that they can be subject to germs from dipping the applicator back into the bottle.
A number of new patents have been applied for over the last 10 years—from electric lipstick with a motorized battery (press a button for the bullet to go up and down) to pressing a button on the cap that heats the lipstick (a radiant heater on top of the lipstick applies the formulation like melted wax). One-handed lipsticks with tactile control have also appeared—push the button and the bullet pops out.
A sound, a click—all are important features, according to Mathiez, in making a brand’s product stand out among consumers.
But most important, he said, in any of the categories addressed, is developing a new gesture. This, he said, is what brands strive for most. “Everyone’s looking for the next gesture in lipstick,” said Mathiez.
Still, at an afternoon panel that discussed this point among others, Nicole Masson, vice president, product development at MAC Cosmetics, said, “Why try to improve the bullet which is already perfect—and MAC’s number one selling product, which has been around for 25 years?”
Who will come up with a new lipstick mechanism or a high-tech dispenser? Will someone be able to successfully put a liquid formulation into a traditional bullet?
A survey of patents and pending patents showed some creative thinking. A Nakamura U.S. patent, for example, was for a lip dispenser with cartridges and interchangeable tip applicators.
Companies were also working on extrusion of pasty formulas, which would be stiffer and so would not leak. L’Oréal has hundreds of patents for applicator tips. Alkos has a patent in France for a lip applicator with a cool zamac tip.
On the machine side, a lipstick machine has been designed to customize shades, bullets and textures in a retail setting.
Packaging for Nails
Is it possible to improve nail polish brushes? Is there a need for plastic bottles? Nail polish pens?
According to Mathiez, this may be the most difficult category in cosmetics packaging. The product typically has to be housed in glass bottles—and there’s basically a brush, a stem and a cap. There are not many patents pending in the nail category. A couple include double-touch brushes—like a normal brush but with two tips, so it holds more formula; and a brush that uses rods to deposit a drop of polish on nails, and then spreads. An option from AmorePacific looks and works like a syringe. Press the button and a brush comes out; release and the brush retracts. Still, there may be a problem with potential leakage. A nail painting aerosol from Fareva U.S. requires the user to apply a primer and then spray—the polish attaches only to the primer.
Outside of the bottle and the actual package, however, there has been a steady rise in nail art printing equipment and machines—all fueling consumer demand for customization. There’s even a patent on a portable box, so you can mix pigments and prepare polishes on the go.
L’Oréal has a patent for a cosmetic blending machine—not only for nail polish, but for foundation, concealer, tinted moisturizer and skin care.
Jean-Claude Le Joliff joined Mathiez at the workshop, and described innovative formulations such as textured nail enamels that use micro beads, woven fiber, glass and powders to add dimension. A thermal nail enamel varies in color according to nail temperature on the different areas of the nail, from bed to tip. A nail polish that was developed by college students changes color if the wearer is given a date rape drug.
Packaging for Face
What is the relationship between makeup and skin care? When is airless packaging necessary? This session seemed to draw the most interest, with the discussion covering packaging from airless to cushions. Do consumers understand what airless packaging is—and the function it serves?
Recent patents for face applicators and dispensers include a twist-and-lock compact for airtight protection and a hingeless compact with a diaphragm closure. More and more brands are using bulb or syringe droppers for viscous products such as foundation. The major advantage of this: A coveted new gesture for foundation application.
As with lipstick, more and more patents are surfacing for machines making custom products directly in stores so consumers can blend foundation colors or add skin care benefits.
There is even a machine that creates a grid of your face and offers advice on a full makeup application, so you can “get the look you want.”
At an afternoon roundtable, Bill Hughes, director global marketing and product development, BareMinerals, noted the role of customization in the Face category. “Due to ethnic diversity changing the face of the world, the Caucasian customer will be less than 50% of the total in 10 years.” So shade match is critical, he said.
Masson, from MAC, stressed that makeup artists have always customized people’s looks—to make features look lighter, denser, etc. “Now,” she said, “they’re letting people in on tips and tricks.”
Customization can also solve the problem of less shelf space in retail stores. To this end, Samantha Cutler, chief product development officer, Stila Cosmetics, said, “Stila is looking at more versatile shades—or mixing shades.”
Kate Helfrich, senior director, product development and marketing, Sephora, told the crowd, “There’s no choice but to customize.” As examples of products that offer customization benefits, she pointed to Cover Effects, which has foundation drops; and for lips, Virtual Reality.
Customization of packaging is also critical. Stila’s Cutler noted that brands need to make packaging their own, to attract consumers. “Everything is self-serve,” she said, “so the pack really needs to speak.”
The role of texture was also mentioned, as “a new ticket to admission to the market.” A sensorial aspect is also popular, as in Stila’s lip balm that gets a boost from peppermint oil.
Package Development
Of utmost concern is the interaction and compatibility between product and package.
Hughes emphasized the approach at BareEscentuals: “Products are developed in lock step with packaging to make sure they’re complementary—from very early on.”
Speaking about Stila, Cutler said, “In product development, package development can’t fail—or the consumer will not return. So the formulation has to work with the packaging.” Chicken or the egg? Cutler said, “More and more, packaging suppliers are working with formulators to bring a whole product to a brand.”
Hughes added: “Collaboration is key—and fun.”
Once again, conversation throughout the two days pointed to the critical role of packaging suppliers, who bear a great deal of the responsibility of bringing new ideas, componentry and gestures to the brands.
Another panel discussion, highlighting the California free spirit and cultural bent toward innovation, made this apparent. Ingrid Jackel, CEO of Yes To, had a message for packaging suppliers: Don’t provide cookie cutter presentations. Bring us real innovation.” She emphasized, “The suppliers should become partners and active players.”
Exhibitors Highlight the Trends
Visits to the exhibitors’ booths at MakeUp in Action added insight to the cosmetic categories and trends presented in the workshops and sessions. They also provided perspective on what brands are pursuing in regard to new launches for categories from Fragrance to Applicators.
At Verla, April Vignone spoke about the supplier’s dedicated Ecocert manufacturing facility within the facility. She said that organic formulations and fragrances are in high demand—that it’s an up and coming strong area. “We are creating unique packaging and building molds to hold these formulations. It’s all about sustainable packaging as well as ingredients,” said Vignone. Verla is also adding fragrance to powders and gels. For instance, in fragranced nail polishes, as the polish dries, the scent becomes apparent.
As usual, Taiki was focusing on the latest beauty tools it manufactures—brushes, sponges, applicators, puffs. The supplier uses synthetic fibers—which they say, “are the future, with consistency, quality, application and performance.” They developed their own fiber—Tafre—which has ionic silver extruded in the fiber.
At Oxygen, Musa Dias told Beauty Packaging: “Lips are the new nails.” From sophisticated decorations and metallic shine, to lip products combining color and treatment, it was a convincing story. “It’s not just lipstick and lipgloss anymore,” said Dias. “We are now hybridizing with lip treatments, lip scrubs, lip oils, lip plumpers, lip masks. Products have anti-aging, moisture-boosting benefits.”
In addition to liquids that prime and color, lip art with geometrics and 3D bling, gilt and shine, all created different effects. Multichromatic pigments cause eye shadow to change color when you turn to the light. As far as foundation and skin care, “Customers want to customize their applications, said Dias. “They want to mix tint into cream for a precise color base for more coverage.”
Bi-injected wipers for mascara or lipgloss packages were on display at Geka. The two materials—a rigid that keeps it on the bottle and a softer one that gives better wiping capabilities—make the package memorable. “It’s a different type of satisfaction,” explained Briana Espitalier, “the feel of luxury.”BP
