Inspired Formulations & Packaging at MakeUp in NewYork

The beauty industry crowds were back in force at the 11th edition of MakeUp in NewYork (MUNY). The trade show was held September 14-15 at Javits Center in Manhattan—and featured many of the best suppliers of beauty packaging and formulations.

With the pandemic seemingly under control, cosmetic brands and packaging suppliers were eager to resume—and amp up—production in skincare and makeup—and turnkey development.

More than 124 international skincare and makeup suppliers exhibited at the event, which according to show organizers, racked up a total of 3,453 attendees.

See the photos from the show in the slider above—and the live report from MakeUp in NewYork below.

Here, you'll find all the latest innovations that were on display at the B2B trade show event—from packaging suppliers, formulation suppliers, and companies that specialize in both to provide turnkey services for beauty brands.   

Beauty's Rising Demand was Evident at the Show  

Regardless of lingering Covid concerns, talk of recession, energy shortages, delayed supply chains and the like, the beauty industry continues to boom, in a situation similar to the Lipstick Effect, in which consumers splurge on small luxuries when they can’t necessarily rationalize larger expenditures.

In a recent exclusive video interview with Larissa Jensen, vice president, Beauty Industry Advisor, The NPD Group—and a member of Beauty Packaging’s Board of Advisors—revealed that first-half 2022 double-digit sales hint at a possible recession-proof industry.

According to NPD stats, the total beauty industry grew +17% versus 2021 and +21% versus 2019.

Following third-quarter results, Jensen reported that “Beauty was the only industry with positive unit performance year-to-date” among leading CPG categories.

Beauty Trends at MakeUp in NewYork 2022

The show’s original fun and creative spirit was also back full blast at MUNY, with “beauty parades,” makeup artists, “The Glam Up Challenge,” and other live entertainment presented during the two days. On the business side, it all added up to non-stop beauty innovation, co-creation, new collaborations and an exploration of the latest trends.

Co-founder & show director Sandra Maguarian told Beauty Packaging: “Keeping up the show DNA with a friendly atmosphere and high-profile exhibitors and visitors, while fostering the shift in the beauty industry in terms of actors and trends, is what makes this show a must.”

According to Maguarian, “The beauty market is growing fast with tons of innovations in terms of sustainability, transparency, inclusivity, manufacturing process, new ingredients, etc., and MakeUp in New-York has reflected this dynamism on the show floor.” She also noted that for the first time ever, the number of Indie brands who walked the show equaled that of legacy skincare and makeup brands.”

In packaging, sustainable options, however defined, were abundant, including mono-materials, refillables, compostables, airless, “eco-plastics,” origami paper boxes, ceramic components, paper, stainless steel, aluminum, cork-based options and an expansive array of wood packaging. Traditional plastics also played a role.

As far as skincare and makeup products, trendy themes encompassed an abundance of “natural” plant- and fruit-based formulations to satisfy any food-based skincare aficionado, to multifunctional products and bases that can be used for numerous products; multi benefits; solids (in sticks and jars), gender-neutral bases; water-saving, water-activated; ampoules; beauty pills; shower sheets; cross-functional beauty, ocean plastics, Clean at Sephora creds and hybrid beauty products. Lots of glittery cosmetic products forecasted fun and excitement ahead for makeup in 2022-23.

A Focus on Sustainable Packaging

100% PP mono-material airless bottles by Korea-based Taesung won MUNY’s IT innovation award for packaging. The bottles are now available with a PP mono dip tube. The supplier also had all-PP stick packaging.

According to Taesung, this 100% Polypropylene mono-airless has passed the leakage test with the same standard as a normal airless, i.e., 600 mmHg for 10 minutes. With a minimalist design, Taesung says the bottles also distinguish themselves from existing mono-airless by their 0.5cc dosage, ideal for creamy cosmetic formulas.

Roberts Beauty featured a number of exciting developments at MUNY. For instance, Jaelynn Burkamper, manager creative & innovation, showed Beauty Packaging their refillable flow-through powder brush with a patented, built-in sleeve that controls the flow of powder, prevents formula waste and protects bristles.

Roberts Beauty was also highlighting their Oceanworks Color Collection, made from reclaimed ocean plastics. “In this collection,” said Burkamper, “we leveraged our own innovation with the maximum amounts of Oceanworks PCR material in bold, vivid colors. You can achieve a variety of colors without compromising on the sustainable claim and overall quality.”

Burkamper also said that Roberts Beauty is leading the Oceanworks Tube Category and has produced a tube using greater than 73% Oceanworks Resin, “which can be done in up to 79% depending on color and packaging needs—and is a higher percentage than competing providers.”

APC Packaging was highlighting its new modern and sleek airless pump, the AWP.  All AWP components are produced with polypropylene, and the entire unit can be constructed with up to 50% PP PCR. The new packaging has also been engineered to be light-weighted to reduce a brand’s carbon footprint. The AWP is available in 15-, 30- and 50ml capacities with either a low- or high-profile cap, which can be mixed or matched to different sizes. The pump also features an ergonomic actuator with a depression for finger placement, “so it is very intuitive for the consumer.”

An in-stock version will also be available for domestic distribution from APC Packaging’s U.S. warehouse in November 2022.

Lumson showcased three new products at MakeUp in NewYork: a Lipstick “Sign,” the “Kube” line of glass bottles, and “Japa” refillable glass jars.

With Lumson’s new lipstick “Sign,” brands have the possibility to emboss their logo. This stylish new lipstick tube is available in a diameter of 12.7mm. The main material used is PP for both the mechanism and the base and cap. Only the cap has an aluminum insert.

The “Kube” line with its “carrond” design highlights the elegance and refinement of glass bottles. The range comes in a 30ml version with its pump and cap accessories, and is available in compact and elongated formats. The cap is made of matte polypropylene. The neck is in 20/400.

Lumson’s “Japa” line is a range of refillable glass jars available in 15- and 50ml sizes. The removable insert is made of recyclable PP and the lids are made of aluminum.

FusionPKG featured its new Airless-One, a mono-material airless package, with an all-plastic spring, that boasts a near-100% evacuation rate to minimize formula waste. The package, including both the bottle and pump, are made from 100% polyolefin, and offered in 100% PP PCR. The package features the supplier’s new Airless-One pump engine. According to Chelsea Allen, director of brand marketing, FusionPKG, “it offers precise and consistent dosing—and preserves formulas with 100% airless protection.”

At SGB Packaging, multiple options, including wood components, were available for skincare, fragrance and cosmetics. They also offered airtight sticks for face, lip and sun care, as well as a large catalog of PCR and bio-based packaging options, and glass standards. Lauren Gibli also pointed out new shapes, saying, “Brands are looking for jars that are different than round.”

At FR & Partners, Romualdo Priore said they design only sustainable solutions for makeup and skincare, based on six pillars including components that can be separated, PCR, mono-materials, paper/molded pulp and ceramic.

At MUNY, they featured luxe airless ceramic (a natural material) bottles for skincare and lipsticks, compacts and bottles, all which were beautifully decorated. With solid cosmetics a growing trend, FR has expanded their portfolio with “100% sustainable” cork products, which “are ideal for housing solid products.” Numerous deco options are available.

A rechargeable makeup pulp case was also featured. The pulp case is made of 100% natural, biodegradable, recyclable fibers that are recycled “in an eco-friendly way.” The internal refill system can be made of various materials. Inner palettes made from sugarcane pulp are refillable and compostable.

Ponzini, which was represented at MUNY by SGB, is a 160-year-old five-generation family company specializing in custom mascara packaging and lip gloss and brushes. The Italian-based supplier features over-molding deco in two pieces in complex materials for very textural, embossed-molded, multiple deco effects.

Pibiplast Group showcased its MONO line at MakeUp in NewYork. To meet the consumer demand for more easily recyclable packaging, the company created the MONO mascara, where the bottle, cap and rod are made entirely of rPET. The application system becomes 100% sustainable, thanks to a wide range of mascara applicators made of bio-based fiber, available in several variants. Furthermore, the bottle and capsule can be customized with traditional or sustainable decoration techniques.

Yinyu Tech, from China revealed an eco-ceramic sprayer inside a bottle used for cream or skincare.  It can also be produced in plastics. Lots of beautiful finishes are available—from shiny to matte.

APR Beauty showcased “all PP” refillable jars, and refillable airless bottles; just twist to open and close. Both are available in 30- and 50ml, and can also be made in 100% PCR.

One of the only secondary packaging suppliers at MUNY, Balance displayed its striking origami collection made of FSC paper. The handmade cartons are produced in Asia, and minimum foil stamping is available. The cartons can ship flat to save space.

Ceara Connoly, the company’s marketing manager, said, “It’s a perfect presentation box that can be a keepsake.” The vividly colored and unique cartons are available in shapes including a flower, a star and a leaf. According to Balance, each of the unique constructions is fully recyclable and made with a matte varnish finish, which means no lamination or plastic was used.

ICS highlighted tubes with a stainless-steel doe foot in a wide range of options. The supplier also provides shakers for dry formulations, as well as mono-material solutions.

‘Made in Korea’ brand Byjin showcased a shampoo pump that contains two formulations in one container, which are pumped at the same time for maximum efficacy. The company also highlighted a refillable mono-material airless pump made from PCR and designed to dispense creams.

Cosmety, which has over 30 years’ experience in developing and manufacturing cosmetic packaging solutions, showcased the new Eco-Friendly Series at MakeUp in NewYork, featuring transparent PET packaging, post-consumer recycled materials, and bio-based materials. Furthermore, the collection is compostable.

Libo Cosmetics Co. Ltd’s Aluminum Collection features no plastic, is fully recyclable, and includes a refillable option. The company also showcased the Heather Compact, a mono-material square compact with a reusable portable mirror that pops out for easy recycling.

Water-Activated Formulations, Hybrids and More

With eco-consumers conscious of natural resources and looking for on-the-go products as well as less plastic, water-activated products are increasing in number—and this was very apparent at MUNY, where a number of suppliers offered alternatives.

O Pac, a supplier based in Milan, Italy, drew attention—and won MUNY’s IT innovation award for formulation for its first-time product intro—beauty pills. About to travel? This company’s assortment enables you to carry all of your makeup, skincare and haircare products in a pillbox!

Each pill activates with about 35-40 drops of water.

O Pac also offered formulas with changing textures: solid gel that can be sprayed, and comes back to solid form; or can be used with a dropper as a serum. Face sticks with transparent bulk carried the claim of “the first water-based stick,” called Aqualicious.

Formulas for eyes, lips, face and brows were in demand at Italian supplier iTiT Cosmetics.

Just swipe on the water-activated Candy liner—and it dries quickly. Qualities include long-lasting, very precise, and smudge-proof. Another item was pressed powder with Clean by Sephora credentials—and the color can be customized. Some color formulations can be embossed for a super-rich look.

Kolmar, based in the USA, near Scranton, PA, was operating from a large booth, and featuring numerous products. Anton Meindl, executive sales director, Kolmar USA, told Beauty Packaging that their latest innovation is a range of textures and powders for eye shadows and skincare, all “with a European feel” but made in the USA.

Meindl said a proprietary blend of multiple actives gives the same look and feel as European products, but they are made in the U.S. at a lower cost. Kolmar also offered a wide range known as cross-functional beauty, in which a single formula can be interchanged for multiple lines. Highlighter can also be used as a concealer, blush or foundation. These flexible qualities, said Meindl, make it more affordable to launch a full line of products. A gender-neutral foundation was available.

Kolmar also showcased powder to water formulations—including water-activated shampoo that lathers when wet. Add water in the shower to a “smooth & soothe” powder cleanser made with oatmeal, and it foams up.
Nowcos showed formulations including a hybrid makeup blush for skincare and makeup in one.

NUWEN exhibited dry formulas that you add water to in order to activate and foam—for both shampoo and skincare. Dissolvable tablets were also of interest.

Coswell Korea offered body wash sheets.

A&H International Cosmetics, based in Shanghai, China, highlighted its 3D Dual Powder at MakeUp in NewYork. The product includes two formulas in one—a velvety matte finish and a refined shimmer. The patent-pending, clean formula is talc-free and vegan.

Cosmetic Group USA tapped into the aesthetics of the metaverse and Y2K for its Supernova Shadows. A liquid eyeshadow topper works on its own or as a topper; the formula is smudge-proof and long-lasting.

Fruits & Veggies for Your Skin

With the demand for Clean Beauty reaching new heights, many suppliers highlighted food-quality and food-image formulation and deco.

Ingredients at Cosmetica Labs included marshmallow, rice bran and licorice root.

A pressed serum from Meta Beauty Labs offered a superfruits-based formula with effective ingredients for skincare. The appealing health-conscious name is Pressed Playa Bowl Acai Serum.

Precious Cosmetics PDC Corp. highlighted a new setting spray at MakeUp in NewYork. Formulated with rose water, cucumber extract and more, Daily Greens Spray Essence is hydrating and helps tighten skin. The company says its mission is “to create products that shape and set trends within the beauty industry by accelerating innovation and delivering high-quality products on time and on budget.”

Turnkey Can Unlock the Door to Success

There was a noticeable increase in both formulation and packaging suppliers offering full- and turnkey services at MUNY. Many said one-stop shopping is especially appealing to smaller Indie brands.

WWP Beauty, a world-class full-service supplier to the global beauty industry, launched a lineup of new and sustainable turnkey and packaging collections during MakeUp in NewYork. Jennifer Adams, WWP Beauty CEO, said these two sustainable launches—The Nurtureverse and MonoPump collections—contribute to creating a more circular beauty.

The booth featured a nature-metaverse theme, “a space where nature and technology are fused and where together we can create Beauty with Purpose,” said Musa Dias, WWP Beauty CMO.

Nurtureverse features multi-sensorial, versatile and nurturing lip formulations paired with eco-friendly packaging designs, including a mono-material refillable lipstick and lip gloss vial designed with molecular recycled technology. Monopumps is a collection of metal-free airless pumps featuring 100% PP mono-material in all parts.

Cosmopak, from its colorful fruit-and-veggie inspired booth, revealed their just-launched Beauty in Bloom formulation, turnkey and packaging collections for the 2022-2023 season “to inspire our clients and showcase fresh formulas and packaging options,” said Cassandra Boler, director of marketing. “From concept to creation, our highly-skilled, in-house specialists have you covered and will seamlessly serve as an extension to your team.”

Boler said, “From skin-loving ingredients to various sustainable packaging materials, these examples serve as a creative starting point for brands to brainstorm what’s next in their product pipeline.” Also featured were beauty tools, bags and outer packaging concepts that illustrate additional services Cosmopak provides.

Of particular interest was Cosmopak’s Tint Me superfruit lip balm. Super-rich and emollient, Boler said this lightly tinted lip balm provides intense moisture to dehydrated lips.

Key ingredients and benefits include strawberry oil, which contains gamma tocopherols (Vitamin E) to exfoliate dead skin cells from lips; raspberry oil, which forms an occlusive barrier to prevent moisture loss and protect skin from damaging elements; apricot oil, that’s rich in natural linoleic acid (Omega 6) and oleic acid (Omega 9) to deeply nourish and soften lips; and capuacu & shea butter, which are rich in fatty acids and vitamins. This lip product featured a 5g glass jar with ABS cap—and was developed in the USA.

Specializing in skincare, color and powders, MS Beautilab debuted Love Yourself Tinted Moisturizer—a part of its new Live It Up collection. It’s a lightweight tinted moisturizer with a natural and comfortable finish, and it’s enriched with an active fragrance that “enhances well-being.” It is also touted as clean and vegan. It is housed in mono-material packaging from SamHwa. The bottle, pump and cap are in full PP meaning consumers can put it “as is” in the recycling bin once empty. Zero metal components are used.

Known for its wide array of packaging options, NF Beauty was also showcasing their innovative formulations—as well as turnkey services for brands’ one-stop shopping. One trend-based collection features high percentages of ceramides, which are added to the base to help protect skin. These are available in serums, ampoules and solids. NF Beauty also offers lots of different texture formulas as well as formulas with probiotics.

Color Cosmetics with skincare actives and formulas with SPF were also of interest.

CTKCLIP.com is a “one-step beauty creation platform” that unites the best in innovative formulas and packaging. One of their latest creations blends “inspiration in the night sky with a tinge of nostalgia for the bold and retro makeup styles of the late 20th century.”

At MakeUp in NewYork, visitors got a first peek into CTKCLIP.com’s next trend inspiration featuring “phygital persona.” It will soon be released on CTKCLIP.com. Front-lining this inspiration is ‘Galaxy on My Lips,’ a hydrating matte liquid lipstick series with bold colors and shimmering payoff reminding one of the night sky galaxy, “with a tinge of nostalgia for the bold and retro makeup styles.”

iLabs, which offers turnkey solutions with full-service R&D, manufacturing and filling and packaging at its NJ facility, highlighted two refillable sticks at MakeUp in NewYork—a solid type and a roll-on type. Both are recyclable and made from sustainable PCR materials.

The Turnkey Service IT Award went to Royal Balm by R&D Color.

Accessories with an Eco Message

The Ocean Brush by Raphael Makeup Brushes was recognized with MUNY’s IT Accessory Innovation Award. Marianna Cilauro, sales manager, said, “This groundbreaking brush meets the major challenges of sustainable development and waste recovery.” The brush handle is made of 50% shell and 50% bioplastic. The plastic is recovered from a plant with many benefits: It grows in arid environments and requires little water and nutrients.

The shell comes from oyster waste on the Atlantic coast. It is 100% recyclable and 100% natural. The brush head is made of 65% recycled fiber and 35% raw fiber. brush handle from Raphael Eisen showcased colorful sharpeners with a focus on sustainability. The company offers sharpeners in clear 100% PCR as well as magnesium, and both are fully customizable.

Looking Ahead

With all the new collaborations that likely blossomed at MUNY, we look forward to seeing the outcome in the months ahead.

The next MakeUp In show will take place in Los Angeles, co-located with Luxe Pack in LA, February 16-17, 2023. Find details on MakeUp-In's website.