Joanna Cosgrove, Contributing Editor11.29.23
In a market that thrives on the “next big thing,” contract manufacturers and turnkey service suppliers can be a beauty brand’s best kept secret. These providers are structured to be on the cutting edge of trends, offering fine-tuned production processes with built-in efficiencies and oversight, not to mention the nimbleness to quickly transition products from concept to reality.
A chief asset of turnkey and contract manufacturers is their well-established relationships with packaging and ingredient suppliers, which help mitigate potential supply chain disruptions. At the height of the pandemic, the global supply chain was in shambles. However, in the three years since, the contract manufacturing and turnkey sector has helped usher in a more robust level of reliability.
“The supply chain is showing signs of recovery and stability, and turnkey production is instrumental in this resurgence,” asserts Kristen Corso, vice president of marketing, Roberts Beauty. “Streamlining manufacturing from start to finish not only enhances efficiencies and reduces costs, but also significantly mitigates delays and challenges associated with transit. The more optimized the production journey, with fewer stops, the faster products can reach the shelf.”
Jennifer Corey, director business development, QRS, agrees. “I am not sure if [the global supply chain] will ever be back to what it was, but shipping times, costs and raw materials are far more consistent than during the pandemic, enabling better and more accurate planning for launches,” she says, adding that the nature of turnkey’s complete project management grants a better control and visibility over planning, batching and filling schedules based on the concrete componentry shipping details. “Having all the details for the moving parts enables us to control the moving pieces in the most efficient way possible.”
And if there’s one lesson the pandemic-era supply chain disruption drove home, it’s to plan for the unexpected. Robert Lynch, founder and CEO, Apogee Development LLC, reports pockets of unpredictability and longer than expected door-to-door transit times. “The shipping industry has also seen some contractions and consolidation coming out of the disruption as the extraordinarily high demand seen during the pandemic has waned,” he says.
“Companies like Apogee that provide turnkey development and products have shortened both project cycle time and technical risks through the use of tools like 3D imaging, model making and 3D printing to validate function and speed up the development and decision-making processes.”
Apogee Development has been quietly helping some of the most recognized brands in the world execute complex and beautiful packaging for the fragrance, beauty and spirits industries, serving as the technical advisor, development partner and component supplier behind brands like Sam Edelman Fragrance, Tory Burch, Lauren Conrad, Ashley Benson, Iman Memoir and Cher Eau de Couture.
While the company’s expertise lies in full turnkey tasks including helping brands to navigate and execute the packaging and logistical side of a project, Apogee has also found success as a provider of developmental services, technical support and components like bottles, caps and pumps to other turnkey companies focused exclusively on producing finished goods.
Trends on Point
Turnkey service providers and contract manufacturers keep a proverbial finger on the pulse of what’s new, predicting and interpreting trends for at-the-ready responsiveness. The most significant beauty trend continues to be clean beauty, which is being interpreted not only in formulations, but also in packaging with an environmentally friendly ethos.“Companies are highly focused on using eco-forward materials such as recycled PCR, mono-materials and recyclable components [and]—glass cosmetic components are gaining traction among brands seeking alternatives to plastic packaging,” observes Dan Wolfe, senior vice president of business development, Cosmopak. “Regarding turnkey and formulation, brands are always seeking responsibly sourced ingredients and several clients are reformulating existing products to adhere to new clean beauty retailer standards.”
In addition to being a conventional supplier of traditional cosmetic components and specializing in customizable stock packaging, Cosmopak has expanded its expertise to include custom tooling, and has developed patented technologies for brush pen application and magnetic lip vials. One of the company’s latest launches in the turnkey space is a new Rooted in Beauty collection consisting of a comprehensive array of color cosmetics, skincare and body care products, with several of them elegantly presented in eco-forward packaging options, including glass, metal and refillable containers.
Jessica Tarangioli, president, marketing and turnkey, FusionPKG, says the convergence of clean formulation with sustainability is not just a passing fad, it’s here to stay. “Brands are constantly pushing the boundaries, necessitating even more sustainably conscious development strategies and clean ingredient expertise,” she says. “While sustainable packaging contributes to a circular economy, it can pose challenges in terms of preserving and housing ingredients effectively.”
With more than two decades of award-winning experience in the beauty turnkey space, Seacliff Beauty has extensive experience in formulating trend-focused, performance-driven color cosmetics, skincare and haircare products. The company is well-practiced at meeting cruelty-free, clean, organic and vegan brand standards and guidelines with quick-to-market library formulas that help brands remain competitive.
“We love working with brands that help fill white space in the beauty industry in categories such as sexual wellness and menopause [which] allows us to develop formulas using specialty raw materials with efficacious technology that will set products apart in the market, says the company’s Amanda Greuel, senior marketing manager, noting that Seacliff is also expanding its sustainability for formulations using upcycled ingredients.
Seacliff’s latest brand collaboration with Foria Wellness resulted in the November launch of Everyday Body Wash, part of the brand’s Vibrance Collection. The fragrance-free hydrating cleanser is formulated to be safe and gentle with some organic ingredients, and the ethos is echoed in the packaging.
The 25% PCR plastic bottle is a stock 300ml Boston round PET that’s custom color matched a translucent amber with one-pass silk screen and topped with a white pump dispenser. The elegant configuration is packaged into a secondary carton made of 18pt Neenah 100% PCW White Matte Single with a gradient coloring and white print.
In addition to the clean and sustainable movement, Apogee’s Lynch adds that unique designs, components and products also continue to be at the top of brand wish lists. “This has been evident recently in a trend toward finding new and enhanced methods for decorating components like fragrance bottles and caps with colors, patterns and textures,” he says.
Innovation in Action
Roberts Beauty recently expanded its turnkey services with the introduction of its own lab–Roberts Beauty Studio Lab–which gives customers the opportunity to be an integral part of the lab experience, enabling direct collaboration with the lab’s chemists. “This lab is purposefully designed to rapidly adopt emerging technologies, expedite market entry, and streamline the development of clean beauty products,” explains the company’s Corso.One of Roberts Beauty’s latest launches channeled the company’s expertise in liquid flow-through pens into a new lip format. “In close collaboration with Stila, we unveiled a unique blade-like paddle tip pen in a spectrum of lip colors,” Corso says. “The Stila Calligraphy Lip Stain channels the elegance of a traditional calligraphy pen, delivering precision and artistry in every application.”
Asquan’s first offerings in its foray into full-service products are a family of liquid eyeliners with a tank system it calls the Perfect Lines Collection. “Utilizing Japanese raw materials and made in Europe, these eyeliners come with full compatibility reports, short lead times and a low MOQ,” says the company’s Monika Pfeifer, business development director.
Formulated in accordance with EU, U.S., JP and CN standards, the collection is available in two formulas with two different body styles and two different brush options, ensuring a flexible marriage of the package and formula in six different combinations.
Water-resistant Carbon Black and water-resistant, cruelty-free and vegan Carbon Black-Free with charcoal powder are each housed in 55ml tanks in either classic or signature Lux-Line body styles with a choice of fiber or PBT applicator brush.
Multi-Phase Management
Turnkey and full-service providers are especially adept at navigating each step in a product’s creation, from concept ideation to rollout. And from small indie startups to global mega-brands, few challenges are too big or too small.CTKCLIP, a B2B private label cosmetics platform based in South Korea, specializes in manufacturing a wide range of products, from formulas to packaging, with comprehensive, from-scratch turnkey services that are customized to meet individual demands.
The company’s MOQ1000 program specifically caters to smaller brands wishing to launch cosmetic products, but starting with a low minimum order quantity. The company offers several formulas and packaging options through a simplified web-based process available in just 1,000 units.
What’s more, the company’s Promotional Samples service allows brands to request marketing samples when ordering the mass production of their main product on CTKCLIP.
“Starting from 10,000 pieces, their upcoming product can be already introduced to clients, increasing the brand awareness and customer database,” says Nora Hassaballah, CTKCLIP’s assistant marketing manager, noting that its additional 3PL Fulfillment service offers a “touchless” customized logistics service, delivering finished goods directly to consumers, assisting companies with storing and transporting goods.
One of CTKCLIP’s newest innovations is a refillable Gua Sha Jar cream package that includes a Gua Sha massage tool to help replicate the spa facial experience at home. The Gua Sha jar is made solely from PET and PP materials and was developed with reduced plastic usage in mind. When the content is fully used, consumers simply replace the inner part of the jar with a product refill. There’s no need to purchase an entirely new container.
“The transparent outer lid, which showcases the brand name or a special phrase, can be beautifully placed and easily seen, giving the lid an original design,” comments Hassaballah.
“The outer lid offers double access to ensure clean and convenient use: by opening the first outer lid vertically, there is the massage tool. Then, the inner part can be separated by twisting, and contains the formula itself.”
The Gua Sha massage tool can be made from various materials such as jade or quartz, giving brands versatility in terms of colors and sensations.
FusionPKG’s turnkey expertise lies primarily in product formulation via its in-house lab; however once a brand’s formula is perfected, the company is also able to concentrate its efforts on overseeing the seamless transition into finished goods with a flexible approach, working closely with brands to provide them with whatever level of smooth, efficient involvement they need.
“We can assist with primary packaging, help conceptualize their marketing strategy around the formula, and provide support with secondary packaging and labeling,” says FusionPKG’s Tarangioli. “Essentially, we take on the heavy lifting, allowing brands to focus on their unique visions and goals. Our mission is to offer fast beauty solutions to brands and to be an expert partner in fulfilling their product development needs, whether it’s crafting a standout formula or helping with the entire product journey.”
Asteri, an indie skincare brand, partnered with FusionPKG on the development of a multi-piece skincare line featuring clean, natural and nourishing formulations made with ethically sourced, non-toxic ingredients.
The skincare line is packed in FusionPKG’s 120ml and 50ml Halycon Toner, 100ml Flip Top Tube, 50ml Eclipse Airless Jumbo & 30ml Eclipse Slim Airless designs featuring decoration applications including silkscreen, matte spray, color injection and hot stamp.
“Working with emerging brands can present unique challenges, especially when it comes to navigating the complex landscape of testing and regulatory compliance,” Tarangioli comments. “With Asteri’s five formula launch, we were able to work closely and move swiftly from concept to creation while guiding their team through the process by leveraging our in-house regulatory team with a deep understanding of industry requirements, including new MoCRA compliance.”
Expertise at QRS spans timelining and managing the turnkey production of bath and body, skincare, haircare, CBD, OTC, cosmetic and fine fragrance products.
The company recently executed two Gem-Oils products for the brand &hale with simplicity in the details. Each .27 fluid ounce “Mindful Harmony Package” consists of a square, clear, flint glass bottle with a gemstone rollerball, front and back white film with black print label, and silver aluminum overshell cap. The secondary packaging is a brown kraft FSC board folding carton with one-color soy-based ink print.
“Our customer wanted to ensure there was a sustainability element and wanted brown/kraft stock so we made sure to use FSC certified board and soy inks for printing,” QRS’s Corey says. “Also, when printing on kraft stock, colors do not show up the same as on white stock. We had to ensure that the tones were adjusted so that artwork translated well onto the kraft board.”
QRS produced two harmonious variations: Calm, a blend of lavender, cedar and chamomile with a blue lapis rollerball applicator, and Open, a blend of ylang-ylang, sandalwood and jasmine with a rose quartz rollerball applicator. Each product hits the mark in terms of delivering a sense of well-being in both form and function.