Beauty Refillables That Overcome Challenges

In 2020, Mintel’s global packaging team said they believed the rise of refills in beauty and personal care was unstoppable.

Between 2017 and 2023, David Luttenberger, Global Packaging Director at Mintel, said that refill offerings in markets including Germany, the UK, the U.S., and France increased by as much as 279%. He noted that “Introductions of refill options had been driven as much by brands seeking a next level of overt, marketable environmental attributes beyond the use of recycled content and mono-material structures, as they have by consumers seeking a better value proposition over time despite an often higher initial cost.”

 

In fact, he said 45% of U.S. consumers say it’s worth paying more for high-quality BPC products, while 47% say they try to act in a way that is not harmful to the environment. 

Many beauty industry suppliers at recent tradeshows, including Luxe Pack New York and MakeUp in Paris, have featured refillables as an eco-friendly alternative for brands and consumers, and continue to tackle any consumer resistance by making products and packaging as easy as possible to disassemble and recharge.

Refillables are currently available across all sectors and categories from skincare to fragrance, mascara to lipstick. The prestige market has seen numerous successes with high-end parfums, face creams, and lip items packaged in components that resemble coveted counter items or showy accessories.

Mass, too, has made leaps and bounds with refillable deodorants, color palettes, lipsticks, and more.

While refills can serve as one end-of-life outcome for sustainability, there remains some reluctance to adoption, due to retailers’ stockage issues, and concerns around consumer loyalty and re-purchasing.

 

Globally, where pending European regulations are requiring packaging solutions including refillables, acceptance appears to be more on track than in the U.S.

A report from UK-based research agency Smithers, reveals that new markets are developing, “noticeably where beauty and cleaning brands are trialing more sustainable refill-at-home sales platforms.” Regulatory changes,” according to the report, “including the recently agreed PPWR, is fueling the evolution of reusable and refillable packaging as an alternative to single-use plastics. This is creating challenges for packaging designers, retailers, and logistics operators—which must be overcome if re-use packaging is to become a plausible solution in new applications.”

The latest exclusive data available in the Smithers report—The Future of Reusable and Refillable Packaging to 2029—shows that in 2024, global value will reach $28.20 billion. Across all segments, future growth is forecast at a +4.6% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) to 2029, yielding a market value of $35.36 billion in its final year.

Globally, Smithers found that the market is currently led by existing re-use/refill bottle formats (glass, PET, metal), but adds that “the most exciting area of the market lies with new consumer re-use and refill concepts.”

 

For packaging designers, Smithers notes, “There is a need to innovate, providing more resilient pack designs that can endure and longer service lives, including multiple refillings without compromising functionality or aesthetics. This is fostering innovation for new refillable metal containers in particular, durable plastics, as well as more robust caps and dispensing fixtures.”

For these concepts to be effective, Smithers identifies four key priorities for pack design:

1. Optimizing convenience for the purchaser

2. Carefully balancing price and functionality

3. Creating consumer incentives

4. Linking seamlessly to integrated logistics and support tools.

Since so much of the responsibility for creating successful rechargeable packaging depends on industry suppliers, Beauty Packaging reached out to a selection of pros to learn more about the latest trends and offerings in the world of beauty refillables.

While 3 large beauty and personal care sectors—perfume, skincare, and deodorant—have launched multiple refillable packs, NIQ’s analyst Anna Mayo, says, “We are seeing growth in some smaller categories in the latest 3 months when looking at search data. Nail care and bath preparations & body wash are smaller in size for search, but are seeing growth.”

Key to refillable acceptance/success rates seems to be easy refill methods—and packaging suppliers are up to the task.

At APC Packaging, Rick Ponte, Vice President of Project Engineering, tells Beauty Packaging, “Trends in refillables include innovative, aesthetically pleasing designs, and easy-to-use refill systems. Customers are particularly eager for refillable options in skincare, haircare, and makeup due to high usage rates and environmental concerns. They seek products that balance sustainability with convenience and quality, reflecting a growing commitment to reducing plastic waste.”

Ponte says the category generating the most interest tends to be refillable skincare containers “due to the increasing consumer focus on sustainability and the high demand for personalized skincare regimens.” He explains that customers are looking for eco-friendly options that also cater to their specific skincare needs, making refillable serum bottles, moisturizer jars, and other skincare product containers particularly popular.

APC recently debuted a PET refillable jar, and due to the number of requests, says Ponte, “We have added a glass version and an all-PP version. This variety gives them options to meet their sustainability goals, as well as their budgets.”

Packaging materials and finishes like glass and metallics feel more luxe and can elevate a brand and its refills.

 

Related: Metal-Mania Radiates Luxury

At Luxe Pack New York, where exhibitors introduced many refillable components, Groupe Pochet showed us some striking sustainable packages, especially from high-end brands going all out “to keep their premium position and allure within a sustainable framework: Yves Bouquier, Vice President, Groupe Pochet, said “a trend toward premiumization in refill continues.” He showed us an exquisite Chanel refillable jar with a double wall and aluminum shell. The heavyweight multi-material metal-glass-plastic jar made a luxe statement. A twist-off cap on the refill allows easy replacement; alternatively, the customer can carry the refill separately as a nomadic product.

The jar, made from SEVA 3 glass (recycled glass manufactured by Pochet), is carefully polished and hot-stamped, combining aesthetics and functionality. The anodized aluminum cap has an elegant finish, and features the engraved logo revealed by gold-colored pad printing.

Product designs and refill systems that offer clear, intuitive ease of use are currently popular according to Samhwa’s Vincent McCarthy, National Sales VP, U.S. He says, “This way, consumers can enjoy their favorite products while not generating excess packaging waste—or compromising on quality and aesthetics.”

Brands are putting a lot of thought into their packaging launches to win over eco-consumers, but the pack must tell the eco-story.

At Cosmopak, Daniel Wolfe, SVP, Cosmopak USA, says, “Customers are trying to bring to market refillable pieces that aren’t ‘greenwashing,’ and will end up causing more waste and cost”—for instance, refills that the end-consumer does not discard, but purchases refills as intended.”

New at Cosmopak is the JC-0018, an all-aluminum stick with “a luxurious, weighty feel,” which uses zero plastic in its outer parts. Cosmopak offers inner-packaging refill cartridges in both plastic and aluminum. Wolfe says that refillables with durable outer packaging that demonstrate substantial value, incentivize the end consumer to reuse the outer pack.” In addition, he says it delivers a strong branding message via statement packaging. The end-consumer can then repurchase refillable cartridges in less expensive, more streamlined packaging.

Cosmopak offers refillable packaging options in the cosmetic, skincare, and personal care categories, including sticks, jars, airless, vials, compacts, and pouches—all popular categories, says Wolfe.

“There is a strong push industry-wide to move toward sustainable packaging, and a big part of that is being refill-ready,” says Jerome Fraillon, President, Alder Packaging. He says that lipsticks have been one of the earliest adopters of refillable packaging, with brands such as Bobbi Brown, Givenchy, and Hermes already having created luxury refillable packaging.

Fraillon says that Alder Packaging “focuses on helping our customers find the best sustainable solution for their launch. We are working with packaging forms across all beauty categories to meet the customer where they are on their refillable journey.” 

Alder’s refill offerings range from mono-material polypropylene jars with removable inserts, full aluminum lipstick mechanisms with refill cartridges, and spouted bags. 

Bags, body care, fragrance, and skincare segments are also really leaning into the refillable trend, says Fraillon. Convenience and pricing help the sale. In addition, he says, “Pouches of body wash or lotion can be shipped DTC for a lower cost than a filled bottle with a pump with far less risk of damage. It’s also proven that most bottles, caps, and pumps have a longer shelf life than one full-use cycle.” 

Fraillon explains that through Alder’s partnership with Axilone, they offer beautiful high-quality refillable lipsticks. He says, “The full aluminum mechanism is perfect for this application. The aluminum has a high recycling value, and therefore has a higher chance of getting recycled.”

Alder also offers skincare components from other partners. “We’re getting a lot of interest in refillable skincare components from brands of all sizes. The packages are larger, so they are easier to refill,” he says.

In some areas, younger consumers seem to be leading the way forward with their acceptance of refillables.

Bruno Lebeault. Marketing Director, Viva, finds that “Brands addressing young audiences have the best results as this demographic gets the benefits and understands how to use refill cartridges.”

Viva produces refillable solutions for both their IML-decorated deodorant sticks as well as their thick wall PET premium jars. Which category generates the most interest? Deodorant sticks.

At Texen, which produces many upscale refillables for premium brands, Julie Verignon, Communications & Marketing Director, says consumers are eager to see a wider range of products available in refillable packaging, especially in beauty and personal care.

“This trend,” says Verignon, “is driven by a desire to reduce plastic waste and minimize their carbon footprint. Brands that offer refillable options are seen as more environmentally conscious and socially responsible, which can enhance their reputation and attract eco-conscious consumers.”

Verignon believes that refillable packaging is key to achieving sustainability goals. “By minimizing the need for single-use packaging,” she says, “refillables reduce plastic waste and carbon emissions associated with manufacturing and transportation. Brands, customers, and retailers recognize the importance of refillables in minimizing environmental impact and are increasingly embracing this packaging solution as part of their sustainability initiatives.”

Texen produces 3 types of refillable packaging. The Re Pop jar, a Made in France standard refillable jar, enhances recycled and recyclable materials, and the reduction of single-use plastic waste. With an easy and intuitive refill system, the lid pops out the inner jar. For Stella McCartney, Texen developed specific innovative flexible nomad refills of the Alter Care skincare range. This natural vegan range is presented as a responsible alternative to luxury skincare, with recyclable, refillable packaging. For Dior, Texen developed the refillable version of the Diorshow Iconic Overcurl mascara, “which illustrates the approach of the Dior house for lasting beauty.”

“Today’s consumers want to support brands that prioritize sustainability, driving demand for refillable packaging solutions,” says Moira Stein, Insights and Strategy Consultant at Berlin Packaging.

She points to a study by GlobalData, which showed that more than two-thirds of global consumers find refillable/reusable packaging extremely or quite important in a product. Refill and reuse models also benefit businesses by reducing costs, promoting repeat purchases, and driving brand loyalty. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, “converting 20% of plastic packaging into reuse models is a $10 billion business opportunity.”

Berlin Packaging sources refillable packaging options from around the world, develops exclusive stock designs, and creates custom solutions for its customers, according to Stein. The company supplies refillable bottles and jars, refill pods, cartridges, and pouches, closures, and more for beauty and personal care categories, including skincare, hair care, cosmetics, and fragrance. She says, “Our proprietary product catalog has several refill & reuse systems, including our Airglass, Double Glass, Luxe, and Miracle refill collections.” 

Stein adds, “We’re seeing a lot of skincare and hair care brands launching refill systems. Fig. 1 calls themselves the ‘Refillable Skincare Company’ and uses Berlin Packaging’s exclusive Airglass Slim refill packaging. The Airglass collection allows consumers to reuse the glass bottle up to 25 times and simply replace the refill inside. The refill can be easily inserted with one gesture and is opaque to keep out air, light, and germs, preserving product efficacy. At the end of the product life cycle, all packaging components can be separated for easy recycling by material. The stock bottle is available in a variety of colors, finishes, and decoration options.

Samhwa prides itself on having been at the front of refillable package development for years, says McCarthy. He says that Cosmetics, Skincare and Lips generate the most interest when it comes to refillables.

“We are proud that several of our product designs have received patents for their intuitive ease of use,” says McCarthy. Samhwa believes that a refillable pump or jar with a poor design will make a customer work too hard through complex refill steps. Ultimately this is not a refillable strategy that will be adopted by the customers, won’t work well, and might create noise if their customers can’t refill easily.

Samhwa offers a wide range of products including glass airless refillable bottles, plastic airless refillable bottles, glass airless refillable jars and refillable sticks, with more in development.

 

Related: Harness the Advantages of Airless Packaging

Customized refills, made with a wide range of materials and finishes are available at Molpack. Responding to current demand, Rosa Porras, Marketing Communications Manager, says they have just launched a fully customizable recycled, recyclable, and refillable jar suitable for skincare and makeup. She says that personal care and skincare “are the categories that generate more interest for consumers.”

Some industry experts say yes, while others point to data that shows a slowdown.

At Cosmopak, Wolfe says he is seeing continued interest in refillable packaging, “and the concept of creating a highly impactful piece of packaging that is not entirely single use is highly appealing to brands.” He adds, “We often receive feedback, particularly from color and skincare brands, that brands and retailers are trying to efficiently incorporate refillable into their operating systems, particularly with the challenges posed by increases in SKU counts.”  

 

Bruno Lebeault. Marketing Director at Viva, says a resounding Yes, citing both price and sustainability. “Refillables enable a reduction of up to 85% of the amount of plastic used with every refill cartridge used.

At APC, Ponte agrees, saying, “Overall, the combination of environmental responsibility, economic benefits, enhanced customer experience, and evolving consumer values are all contributing to the rising requests for refillable products.”

Samhwa has been offering its patented refillable bottles and jars for nearly 4 years, and McCarthy says they have seen brand inquiries and unit production increases every year.  He adds that these patented systems “set the standard in client optimization and customer satisfaction,” and that 2024 “will be our biggest year for refillable sales and units produced.”

 
In addition, McCarthy says that Samhwa’s product suite allows brands to increasingly design and offer products that meet growing client demand for the combination of the luxe of glass, the innovation of refill, and the sustainability of PCR resins.

Alder’s Fraillon also says they are seeing rising sales for refill-ready packaging and refillables. He explains that ‘refill-ready’ describes a package that can transition to refillable if the product launch supports a refillable program. These packages are standard bottles, jars, and compacts accompanied by larger fill bags with spouts, aluminum bottles (reusing the pump), or loose pans for compacts.

 
Circularity is one of the essential pillars for sustainability, and refillable packaging is the first true step in that direction, says Fraillon, adding that most brands are looking for sustainable solutions to their launches. “Refill-ready packaging is becoming very popular with our customers, as it is a low-risk point of entry.” On the contrary, he says, “The refill part has been a more difficult sale to the end consumer. Consumers will not want to refill a $6.00 lipstick, but they will refill a $100 one if there’s a financial advantage. Similarly, if a face lotion is $40, and the refill is $36, the consumer might not want to take the extra step to refill their package instead of getting a brand-new fresh component.”

At Molpack, Porras, sees consumers’ conflict over choosing refillables. She says, “The truth is that brands are increasingly demanding refill containers. Brands are committed to sustainability and are, in most cases, making an effort in their commitment to the environment.

Consumers are also increasingly committed to responsible consumption, says Porras, and they are beginning to value brands that offer refill containers, “although there are still few who demand them.” She adds, “In beauty, image and illusion are two very important purchase drivers. Many consumers associate the purchase of a cosmetic in a refill container with a cheaper price, and the truth is that it is equal to or, very often, more expensive than the product in the original container. Faced with this situation, many consumers prefer to pay the same, or even less, to have their cosmetic product in beautiful packaging with all the parts brand new. Having a new product is part of the excitement associated with the world of beauty—and buying a completely new product in beautiful packaging with beautiful finishes increases this illusion.”

Meanwhile, NIQ’s Mayo sees a slight downturn. She tells Beauty Packaging, “While refillable packaging in the beauty and personal care category did see slight dollar growth in the latest 12 months of +2% in search, we are now seeing this trend soften further to -14% in the latest 3 months in search. We are seeing a similar trend in the sales data with total beauty and personal care refillable packaging down -8.1% in dollars in the latest 12 weeks.

Cosmetic packaging suppliers continue to tweak refillables, looking to balance advantages and obstacles.

APC Packaging’s newest refillable packaging solution is the Refillable Glass Airless Pump (BRGP). According to the supplier, “this pump revolutionizes the beauty industry by seamlessly merging airless and refillable technologies within a robust, heavy-walled glass container.” At its core, the inner bottle offers both replacement and recyclability, “fostering sustainability in every step.” Meanwhile, the outer heavy-walled glass bottle and actuator components are designed for enduring reusability, ensuring the product’s longevity.

Viva’s Lebeault points to the round refillable deodorant stick they produced for Rio Deo from Sol de Janeiro. 

Alder recently faced a challenge when they were asked by Starface to improve the engineering of their compacts to make them easier to dispense. By adding a little ramp in the base, Fraillon says the sheets became easier to dispense for the consumer. This compact is sold at Walmart and Target. It is heavy and has a luxurious feel which encourages the consumer to keep it and refill it, he says. 

Alder also works with HomeCourt on their refillable bags with spouts for household products like hand soap, dish detergent, and room fragrance spray. These types of bags eliminate a lot of waste across the supply chain, explains Fraillon. The bags use anywhere from 80% to 90% less plastic than a rigid plastic bottle of a similar size. Flexible packaging also takes up far less space when shipped to the final filling location.

 

Related: Flexible Packaging: When Form Meets Function

Recently launched as a standard version, Bormioli Luigi’s refillable jar reinforces its positioning as a mono-material glass product. Named Reverre, this patented concept has multiple advantages as “a desirable, sustainable product for a distinctive consumer experience.” In its standard format or as a custom development, it is suitable for a range of personalization solutions.

With its Reverre design, Bormioli Luigi says it is pushing the limits of eco-design. It stands out with a glass inner cup that the consumer can replace with a simple gesture. This patented concept is made airtight thanks to a plastic ring designed so it does not disturb the recyclability of the product. “Combined with an offer of original caps,” the glassmaker says this is “a sustainable packaging solution with a premium appeal and an extended lifespan.”

Reverre is offered in two development options: the predeveloped catalog design can be simply personalized with décor and embellishments, and there is also the possibility for a made-to-measure concept. In the second scenario, “anything is possible,” from the glass shape to the size of the cup and cap. The teams at Bormioli Luigi will put in place the appropriate industrial processes and resolve the technical challenges linked to the design.

While refillables are accepted as an efficient sustainability option, one of the major hurdles is acceptance by all involved—manufacturers, customers and retailers.

NIQ’s Mayo says refillables are a great option for brands to meet the sustainability goals of consumers, but consumers are looking for other changes in packaging to help live a more sustainable lifestyle, too. She explains, “Things like biodegradable or plastic-free are also top of mind for consumers. Recycling can be confusing in this category as to what qualifies or how to do it correctly. Many retailers have started to implement programs that help consumers recycle beauty products.”

Wolfe says that Cosmopak’s “ecoforward” framework utilizes refills as one end-of-life outcome for sustainability. “Brands are taking numerous approaches to sustainability, including inputs (such as PCR and paper), mono-plastic and other easily recycled materials, and refillable packaging.”  

At Samhwa, McCarthy believes that refillable products are “the foundation to true package sustainability.” He says, “When we all reduce the amount of plastic entering the stream or even better, reduce the amount of plastic being created through chemical recapture PCR processes, there is no way to not be on board. The industry has been moving in this direction for years, but it seems all the pieces are now in place for all brands to incorporate refillables in their package designs.”

Viva’s Lebeault says the refillable route is extremely important to sustainability, as it can reduce up to 85% of plastics. He has found that most brands, customers, and retailers are all on-board.

 

Currently, refillables seem to be working more for some categories than others—especially fragrance.

At Texen, Vergnion says, “Refillability strategies seem to be easier to set up for the fragrance and skincare segments due to the refill sizes and the consumption patterns.”

She says that in recent years, “We have really felt an increased interest from cosmetic brands on this subject. Our clients try to anticipate both future regulatory constraints in the market and the increasingly significant demands of consumers. We also note that brands positioned in the prestige/masstige market and dermo-cosmetic and natural brands are in greater demand than mass market brands, which are favoring eco-responsible strategies focused on recyclability and the reduction of materials rather than reuse.”

She says packaging companies such as Texen Group have to be at the forefront of innovative solutions in terms of sustainability without negatively impacting the consumer experience. “We must respond to demands from consumers and the market, while helping our clients maintain their very high-quality standards.”

At APC, Ponte says, “Refills are crucial for packaging sustainability, significantly reducing waste and resource use. While many brands and environmentally conscious customers are embracing refills, widespread adoption requires further commitment from retailers and continued consumer education. Overall, momentum is building, but full alignment across all stakeholders is still evolving.”

Refillable and reusable packaging extends the life of products and promotes a circular economy, says Berlin Packaging’s Stein. She says consumers are interested in refillable packaging, with more than two-thirds saying refillable/reusable packaging is extremely or quite important to them (GlobalData). Beyond consumer demand, she says consumer packaged goods companies face a growing list of new regulations that will drive packaging sustainability, including the EU Packaging and Packaging Waste Directive, Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) legislation, and recycled content requirements. And retailers have their own goals.

Stein also shares that according to McKinsey & Company, “By 2030, retailers with the boldest ambitions plan to increase their share of recycled content in packaging to 50 percent, reduce their virgin-plastic footprint by 50 percent, and move to 100 percent reusable, recyclable, or compostable materials in their private label range.”

What does the future look like as far as the challenges and rewards of suppliers, consumers, brands, and retailers moving ahead with refillable packaging?

Cosmopak USA’s Wolfe says, “Refillable packaging offers brands the opportunity to create statement piece packaging, often without design or material constraints. Challenges remain for effective adaptation from the end consumer, as well as from the operations of brands and retailers.” 

At Molpack, Porras stresses, “Respect for our planet is the greatest reward.”

Ponte from APC, says, “The future of refillable packaging in beauty faces challenges like infrastructure development and consumer education, but offers rewards such as reduced environmental impact, enhanced brand loyalty, cost savings, and regulatory advantages. Embracing this shift promotes innovation and positions brands as sustainability leaders.”

For the concepts discussed in this article to be effective, Smithers identifies four key priorities for pack design: Optimizing convenience for the purchaser; Carefully balancing price and functionality; Creating consumer incentives; Linking seamlessly to integrated logistics and support tools.

As this happens, Smithers says, “CPG brands are increasingly using smart technology to enhance the user experience, with services such as automatic refill deliveries for registered subscribers.

Europe is poised to expand its existing re-use systems following the recent agreement of the EU’s Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR). It will require all member states to establish deposit return schemes for plastic and metal drink packaging from 2029, closely followed by mandatory targets for 10% re-use formats in most beverage segments from 2030. This will stimulate significant investment across the region, and provide practical exemplars for how and when re-use/refill models can contribute to wider circular economy goals.”

While still a nascent segment, Smithers data modeling shows that sales will increase at +15.0% CAGR to 2029, more than doubling in value, and approaching $1 billion in sales by the end of the decade. This covers a range of new business options for consumer goods—refill at home, return from home, and refill in-store.

These models, according to Smithers, are becoming especially popular in personal care and home cleaning markets, with major CPG firms competing with dedicated e-commerce sellers. Penetration is being driven by the desire to experiment and provide a tangible proof to customers of the brand’s commitment to a more sustainable future for our planet.

NIQ’s Mayo, comments, “The consumer has so many options now when it comes to not just brands, but variety within a brand. Consumers like to experiment within beauty, and it can be hard to build loyalty in this category. One challenge that refillables may face is that consumers will have to commit to repeating on that particular product. However, if consumers do get on board with the refillables trend, the category has the opportunity to decrease its environmental footprint and make strides in reaching sustainability goals.”

At Texen, Verignon says moving forward with refillable packaging presents both challenges and rewards. Challenges include designing refillable systems that are convenient, cost-effective, and hygienic. For the brands, it means also addressing logistical complexities such as collection, cleaning, and refilling processes. However, she says, “The rewards are significant, including reduced environmental impact, enhanced brand reputation, and increased customer loyalty.”

Berlin’s Stein, says, “Currently, many refillable packaging items use the ‘refill at home’ model, where consumers purchase a product and refill their reusable packaging at home.” However, she adds, there are a growing number of zero-waste or refill shops that allow customers to refill products in store. Some large retailers like L’Occitane have in-store refill stations. “It will be interesting to see if the ‘refill on-the-go’ model takes off.”

 

Alder’s Fraillon notes that the U.S. consumer isn’t used to the refilling process. “They are used to purchasing a new product when they run out. It will take time to change this consumer habit.”