Jamie Matusow, Editor-in-Chief07.22.24
More than 150 cosmetic and skincare formulation and packaging suppliers converged on the Carrousel de Louvre on May 29-30, to connect with beauty brands searching for the latest advances in cosmetics, fragrance, skincare, and accessories. In addition, dozens of industry experts contributed to sessions that provided an accelerated, topical education for MakeUp in Paris attendees.
Commenting on the show’s success, Sandra Maguarian, co-founder of the ‘MakeUp in’ shows, told Beauty Packaging, “I am proud to say that the DNA of the ‘MakeUp in’ shows was felt in every corner of the show with tons of innovations in products and manufacturing processes, and trends in a spectacular décor—all in a kind of ‘friends gathering atmosphere.’ I can’t wait to see what the next edition in Paris will be like, as we celebrate our 15th edition and 50 worldwide ‘MakeUp in’ events!
Trends of Note
An emphasis on refillable packaging was apparent on the show floor, with many suppliers highlighting their latest innovations in this area, including a drive toward ease of use. Some exhibitors told Beauty Packaging, that to succeed and win consumer acceptance, refillables have to be as easy as possible to re-charge; and as easy as possible to separate parts and recycle.
Industry terms including recycle-ready, mono-materials, aluminum, glass, paper, PP, PET, and PIR were top priorities. Hot-stamping with different depths and other multi-level visual effects were popular for both bulk and packaging components.
Wipers gained status as a trending category of their own, as celebrities’ social media documentation of spreading on color and cream rather than dabbing or patting, influenced new applicator development. Introductions at MUP included spatula-like spreaders for lips, foundation, and skincare. Pencils of all types and sizes made their mark. Fragrance applied with a brush was introduced as a new gesture.
Personalization, customization, and portability were also hot topics. Various ways to add a logo, name, or recognizable design or color, lured attendees. In addition, double-duty products with more than one applicator, color, fragrance, or formulation ticked convenience and sustainability boxes.
Ease of application and removal of cosmetics and skincare products has become another priority. Some exhibitors said they were creating products in the hopes of achieving “the Tik-Tok effect.”
IT Awards
The IT Awards are always a highlight at the ‘MakeUp in’ shows, and Paris was no exception. Awarded products and runners-up were placed front and center at the entrance to the show floor, setting the mood for the innovation, style, and creativity for both packaging and formulations that lay ahead in the 3 large exhibit areas. Jury members had assessed the 27 finalists from all categories, to award prizes to the most innovative entries.
At the 2024 edition of MUP, IT winners were named in 4 categories.
The awards for Packaging hit some of the major talking points at the show—combining luxury with sustainability, refillable, aluminum, ease of use, and personalization.
Packaging IT Award: PPK & Morrama revealed Maya Refillable Lipstick Packaging. This refillable lipstick case is made of aluminum, with the refill material composed of bamboo pulp and bagasse that looks like paper. Combining luxury with sustainability, its casing offers “a velvety, smooth texture and an ergonomic shape that comfortably fits in the hand.” The refill slides smoothly into the case with a simple twist. Each lipstick case can be personalized.
Full-Service IT Award: Chromavis Fareva’s Carte Blanche: Your Own Story Palette (an on-the-go “makeup card”) was billed as the first water-activated makeup powder. It was presented on FSC paper. This patent-pending technology is a re-engineered version of a patented formula, delivered without traditional packaging. The blank card format allows unlimited creativity, and is lightweight and easy for travel. It is also fully customizable.
Formulation IT Award: B.Kolormakeup & Skincare’s Graffiti Luminous Spray is a hydrating liquid spray blush that takes makeup application to a new level—with a new gesture. This colored mist, designed to sculpt and illuminate the face, is sprayed onto a sponge or brush and then blended onto the cheeks for “a luminous finish.”
Accessories IT Award: HNB Corporation’s Vase Makeup Brush is a set of three brushes crafted especially for applying foundation, powder, and concealer. The handles were inspired by the shape of a vase, and designed to improve grip. The brush heads are handmade from recycled corn fibers.
Capping Innovation
Just beyond where the IT award recipients were displayed was the C.A.P. (Clever Alternative Products) booth, which featured a newly developed luxe & sustainable premium lipstick pack, called Cheeky. Developed with renowned beauty industry veteran, packaging designer, and Creative Director of La French Company, Thierry De Baschmakoff, the product drew lots of interest for its originality. “We wanted to bring something new,” he told Beauty Packaging.
Instead of the bulk going up or down in the barrel, the barrel, itself, rotates down. “We created our own reverse-engineered mechanism,” De Baschmakoff said. The shape of the sleeve can be customized, and the mechanism can be made to be fast or slow. The outside can be made in numerous sustainable materials such as PP, PET, and glass. De Baschmakoff also said that the mechanism makes it impossible to crush the lipstick when capping it.
The sustainable PP refill cartridge is recyclable and lightweight. As this is the part to be discarded and replaced, it was designed to use just a minimum of material and energy. The exterior cartridge, which is meant to be retained, offers “unlimited customization features.”
De Baschmakoff said, “Everyone now wants a personalization feature—especially in the refill area where packaging is created to remain with the consumer.”
The secondary packaging for the lipstick is all wood, and injectable.
The Latest from MUP Exhibitors
Following is a look at some exhibitors, packs, and formulations that drew Beauty Packaging’s attention on the MUP show floor. Companies are arranged in alphabetical order.
3 Dust
3 Dust, from Milan, presented full-service customized decorated powder palettes not yet on the U.S. market. Illuminante is their new technology, a manufacturing process without solvents, baking, or pressing. 3 Dust says the “totally new” process produces large quantities of powder, including one with a “velvety feel.” They have also converted a “freeze-dry” process from the pharma industry, “in which you take away the cake and put it in a package,” and customized it for personalization and branding purposes in cosmetics.
The powder texture formula is free from harmful ingredients, and suitable for use on the eyes, face, décolleté, and shoulders. The freeze-dry process maintains the original color and glossy effect of the products, while “enhancing their stability and longevity.”
Axilone
At Axilone, Lucie Ray-Lalanne showed Beauty Packaging a range of beautiful packages. She explained the company’s innovative vision to align premium and sustainability, which “is brands’ major concern.” Refillables and mono-materials were plentiful, in PP, PET, and aluminum. Their patented, customizable “lock-key” technology takes only a specific brand’s lipstick refill.
A finalist in the MUP IT awards, Axilone’s limited-edition lipstick features a base, cap, and an aluminum shell, adorned with a decoration inspired by the iconic YSL zebra pattern. The process includes clean anodization to prepare the aluminum for decoration, white luminescent lacquering that turns green at night, black screen printing to create the pattern, and a final clear protective varnish. Its slim design with a square bullet enables precise and controlled application.
Ray-Lalanne says the company’s goal is to have a full aluminum range for all categories. They are currently working on a “new makeup offer for eyes, including mascara.” Cartier’s new body cream with a “technical cap” comes with an offer of vials of aroma, which can be added to the unscented cream.
Brivaplast
Brivaplast launched a new category of applicators, in terms of material and shape—ceramic applicators for hybrid formulations. “The ceramic material, thanks to its technical characteristics, adds a cooling and soothing effect to the application,” explained Valentina Manera, Marketing Director. She said that the smooth surface of the material allows an immediate and total release of the formula on the skin. The ceramic material, usually used for treatments, is designed and applied for color cosmetics, and formulations between skincare and makeup. The different shapes are functional for the application of the product. The small spatula, for the lips; the long spatula for face and neck, the spoon for the under-eye area, and the doe-foot for dotting the imperfections of the skin.
Concept 4
Concept 4 works to connect China with the U.S. regarding design and packaging. FSC paper compacts without magnets were on display. The company says they calculate the carbon emissions of every step in the process—to show customers what a difference the choice of various materials can make, and how this compares to EU and U.S. standards. A simple lip balm that pushes up in a 100% paper tube was shown.
Confalonieri Matite
All types of pencils were popular at MUP. From Italy, Confalonieri Matite showed a wide assortment of wooden pencils, specifically for private label—including for eye, lip, eyebrow, and concealer. All are produced in Italy and sold direct.
Cosmax
Primarily a formulations-based company, Cosmax also offers turnkey services. The company, with 800 scientists globally, says it is the largest cosmetics manufacturer in the world—with a major portion in Asia. Julie Lee, Strategic Marketing, showed me several of their products that she said had become viral Tik-Tok trends, including UV patches, undereye patches, pearl highlighter sheet masks, microneedling patches, and a sponge that feels just like skin.
CTK Clip
CTK Clip’s packaging is ABS-free in compliance with a pending European ban on this material. Featured was a compact packaging solution for pressed powders or balm formulas, constructed from four PET components. It includes an innovative patented mechanism that tilts the lid back 180 degrees, to activate a movable block linked to the hinge, making the refillable pan easy to eject and replace. There is no glue. Its mono-material, minimalist design ensures ease of reloading “and is suitable for users of all ages and genders.” No-waste refillable sticks are also available.
FR & Partners
To emphasize its playfulness and creativity, FR & Partners created the Tangram Game Make Up Palette, a multi-palette design that resembled a board game. The collection is buildable and highly customizable for full face makeup or a selective touch-up on a specific area. Choose lightness and #sustainability with #FSC Certified #Paper and#travelfriendly options for endless combinations.
Geka
Geka highlighted their Contemporary Luxe Collection with 2 brushes and a new applicator—”a large brush, especially popular in Middle East and South American markets,” said Lea Bogenreuther, Junior Marketing Manager. The products have a 3D printing effect on the barrels. A new Feather mascara brush is perfectly shaped to fit the eye and grip lashes. A new lipgloss applicator, when held upside down, looks like a ballererina slipper.
Geka’s on-the-go gel fragrance packaging includes a combination of matte and shiny shadow printing as well as shiny silver hot foil printing. The unique bottle design has a hygienic micro bristle applicator that can be applied to the skin precisely, without product waste.
HCP Packaging
The ‘Color Capsule’ is a new pack design from HCP’s Design Futures team, created to enhance the appeal of skincare and complexion products, through “desirably chic packaging.” The squeezable construction and slender nozzle enable controlled and targeted application, while its portable and compact format makes it “the ideal solution for travel.” Supplied in a variety of material mixes, the ‘Color Capsule’ provides “precise and targeted” application for a range of mid-to-high viscosity complexion and skincare formulas.
HCT Packaging
At HCT France, Eva Planter, Packaging Project Engineer, showed me a duo concealer for a double application. Just squeeze the bottle and apply with the top; the top can then be removed and washed. The bottle can also be used with a dip tube. A mono-material PET lip gloss pack has a flocked applicator. The threads on the pack are different than the norm, so it has a softer feel—and a different gesture—when the cap is removed.
Homer Color Printing
Homer Color Printing, with facilities in China and Taiwan, specializes in high-end cosmetics, skincare, and gift setup boxes and pop-ups. Sustainable material options include bamboo paper, bagasse, and 100% PCW FSC paper. Howard Tsai, Marketing & Sales Director, told Beauty Packaging that they have been sourcing a lot of sustainable packaging—and that the U.S. is its largest market. Cut-outs, soft-touch, and detailed embossing are all offered.
Jiusu
At Jiusu Technology (Shanghai), the plastic packaging division of Sunglow, Damien Dossin, General Manager, U.S., told Beauty Packaging that they are producing a lot of pumps for products including fragrances, oils, and fine mists. The company recently opened a second factory for plastics—for the production of 200 million pumps a year. Dossin said there is an increased amount of mono-materials, recyclable, and reusable pumps available. Refills are also popular.
IL Cosmetics
New in lips at IL Cosmetics was a clear lip gloss with a fluffy flocked applicator, with applicator, bottle, and cap all available in PET/PCR mono-materials. Thanks to an improvement in materials, IL Cosmetics says this brush is not a stiff rigid brush as before—but soft, with a correct volume level.
Juanita Parra, Marketing Manager Make-up, at IL Cosmetics Group, showed Beauty Packaging their new tubing mascara, which she says is currently “the No. 1 trend.” Tubing mascara wraps each lash and gently pulls off or easily washes away. About 80% of their business is turnkey.
Libo
Many beautiful deco effects and interesting shapes were on display at Libo’s stand, including compacts and lipsticks hot stamped with different depths. A booth representative said that Europeans are looking for “high-end, functional, and multi-use products.” An injection blow-molded bottle features a head that can be changed or washed; the brushes and sponges are all customizable.
Metapack
Metapack showcased an array of luxe packaging, most with specialty metallic touches of some kind. Isaure de La Noue, Commerce Director, explained that the company works to combine sustainability and design.
Metapack displayed the face compact (concealer and highlighter) they had created for well-known makeup artist Fara Homidi. With eco-responsibility and sustainability in mind, this fully refillable compact is made of Zamac and Treva bioplastic by Eastman with a shiny red-lacquered finish. The refills are orientated in the compact through the logo engraving. Its curved edges provide an ergonomic shape, which is comfortable to handle, complemented with a magnetic closure. Spray pursers, lipsticks in glass—and full Zamac cold-touch spatulas were also on display.
Pibiplast
Pibiplast, an Italian developer and manufacturer of plastic packaging for makeup and personal care, showcased a French-inspired Marinière Love collection, drawing from a timeless classic, the marinière (French navy/white stripe) style. The capsule includes 3 mascaras, as well as two multi-tasking bottles for liquid face products “designed to offer maximum performance and give excellent results on the lashes and face.”
Pibiplast says, that the collection (‘which would be great for a Paris Olympics 2024 brand launch’) “highlights the synergies with formulators that allow brands to significantly reduce development and launch times of new cosmetic products.”
Samhwa
“At Samhwa, it’s all about improvement,” said Daniel Seo, Assistant Manager. He showed me a new gesture for applying skincare or foundation, which “has become popular with celebrities.” A stainless-steel spatula is pulled from the top of a bottle to spread the product. A wiper in the top controls the formula. A glass bottle is now available in PET. “The spatula has not yet been commercialized—but the mold is ready,” Seo said.
Texen
Texen offered a wide range of striking packaging, including an all-metallized, refillable mascara for the masstige market. A lip brush that dips into a tube has a special wiper for no-waste, “perfect” applications. Tubes with brush tops and tubes with 2 chambers can be used separately or together depending on purpose. A shake-and-go pack for multiple formulations (skincare and foundation, for example) activates the formula—and is good for the “Tik-Tok effect.” Makeup for hair was housed in a tube with a silicone head and an on-off button.
TOA
TOA, a cosmetic OEM from Japan, was a first-time exhibitor at MUP. Etsuko Kosuge, International Sales, showed Beauty Packaging a range of water-based specialty cosmetics including nail polish; and a water-encapsulated powder that can be worn on top of foundation to set it. Just a little product is needed to moisturize skin. Gel eyeliners are applied smoothly and evenly, without scrubbing to remove. While TOA specializes in formulations, they also provide contract manufacturing and turnkey services. The team’s beautiful traditional kimonos and obis made a beauty statement of their own.
More ‘MakeUp in’ Ahead
The next ‘MakeUp in’ show will take place September 18-19, in New York, at Manhattan’s Javits Center.
