Customers are more discerning than ever when it comes to skincare. Armed with information from the Internet and testimonials from social media influencers, the consumer’s approach to finding skincare solutions is not based as much on marketing claims, but the presence of key actives (targeted to solving particular skincare issues). In addition to having the required actives, customers also want to know if these actives are present in the optimal amounts that will deliver the desired results.

I came a little late in life to skincare actives at the ripe old age of 50 when I became really intentional about solving my life long struggle with acne and hyperpigmentation. Along with the aforementioned issues, I also found that my skin had lost its glow and luster and I desperately wanted that back. My goal was not to turn back the hands of time, who am I fooling, neither was I trying to pass for 35 at age 50. My goal was to have the best looking 50-year-old skin I could afford. I wanted my complexion to be flawless and I wanted my glow back. With that in mind I put my skin in the care of a very capable dermatologist and I started researching actives to add to my daily skin care regimen.

Actives like Vitamin C are a staple in skincare regimens. Known for its high concentration of antioxidant properties, Vitamin C is used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation and stimulating collagen production for brighter, plumper looking skin. One of the biggest challenges working with Vitamin C is the stability. L- Ascorbic Acid is a natural derivative of Vitamin C that is less volatile. Vitamin C Esters are synthetic derivatives of Vitamin C that are sometimes a more attractive option because they are more stable and less expensive. With so many Vitamin C products on the market, it can be difficult finding the product that has the efficacy and stability levels that will deliver the desired results. Not willing to spend weeks experimenting with products that might not be effective, because who has the time, I found it worthwhile to pay a little more for Vitamin C products recommended by my dermatologist for guaranteed potency and stability. 

Hyaluronic Acid is a powerful active that promotes supple, glowing skin. It nourishes and hydrates the outer layer of the skin, giving it a plump supple feel. Hyaluronic Acid provides an intense hydration boost without the heavy feel of a rich cream. This active is effective in its ability to revitalize the skin’s outer layers for a softer look and feel that is smoother, and, glowingly hydrated to instantly improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. I love this active for its ability to make the skin look and feel restored. 

Retinoids are a class of synthetic and naturally occurring Vitamin A compounds and derivatives that include retinol and retinoic acid. Retinoids like retinoic acid or tretinoin are FDA-approved and tested for efficacy. They are available only by prescription for the treatment of acne. Prescription Retinoids come in various strengths from .02% to .10% and are prescribed based on dermatologist evaluation of patients’ skin. Other retinols like Retin-A are cosmetic and do not require a prescription. Retin-A can also be used to promote smoother skin by reducing the sign of fine lines and wrinkles. Cosmetic Retinol is also better tolerated and less irritating compared with prescription strength retinoids. In addition to clearing acne, prescription Retinoids work to provide smoother-looking skin. They can speed skin cell turnover and boost collagen production. My adult acne responded extremely well to prescription strength retinoids and now I am acne free with noticeably smoother and supple skin.

While more potent skin care formulations tend to come with higher price points, one company is disrupting that model— Deciem,  the parent company for skin care brands like The Ordinary, NIOD, Loompha and others. The company mission is to democratize high quality skincare formulations by offering “a collection of familiar, effective clinical technologies positioned to raise pricing and communication integrity in skincare”. One of the unique features of this brand is that they show the percentage of actives contained in each of their formulations so the consumer can decide if they need a little more or less of a particular active. Brands that provide transparency around their formulations allow customers the ability to make informed decisions about their skincare needs.

I predict that consumer demand for more transparency around ingredient potency will push brands to take a look at what companies like Deciem are doing.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Funlayo Alabi is the co-founder of Shea Radiance, a natural beauty brand dedicated to transforming hair, skin, thinking … and lives into something more beautiful than what it was before. Funlayo is a global business leader who speaks domestically and internationally on matters of international business, market and economic access for African women, Africa’s agricultural sector and Shea butter. Funlayo and Shea Radiance were selected to be honored in the 2017 Goldman Sachs 10,000 Small Businesses program offering education, business support services and access to working capital.
About Shea Radiance Shea Radiance was founded in 2008 by Funlayo Alabi on the premise that women need to care for themselves and each other.  Shea Radiance crafts artisanal skincare and haircare products that are all-natural with the purest, small-batch, women-sourced shea butter from West Africa as a primary ingredient. Shea Radiance promotes the power of community and empowerment for women around the globe. 

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