Prestige Looks for Mass Markets

With creativity and the latest technologies, mass market brand owners can deliver packages that look like they belong in upscale boutiques.

Leah Genuario, Contributing Editor

Procter & Gamble recently launched Olay Definity, a line of three products sold in mass market distribution channels. Its packaging design includes the use of an upscale-looking molded plastic secondary container, as well as holographic details and an unobtrusive booklet label.

“Olay Definity is the first introduction with the molded (hard) plastic secondary for all the secondary components,” says Peter Hargraves, global package device and development section head for P&G, Cincinnati, OH, adding that the secondary package supplier is Technimark. “The primary and secondary package and graphics were designed holistically to convey highly defined luminous skin.”

As a finalist in this year’s Health and Beauty America International Package Design Awards (IPDA), Olay Definity is an example of a mass market line with a luxurious look. Experts agree that a successful mass market package is one that’s designed holistically.

“A quality, prestige impression is a combination of a multitude of factors. Certainly it is the materials and attention to detail. But the holistic approach, the story behind the product, the ingredients, the name and the amount of copy all add to the beauty and delight factor the consumer will experience,” says Liz Grubow, vice president and group creative director for LPK Beauty Group, Cincinnati, OH.

Mass and Prestige Differences

While the goal of all packages is to sell the product, there are different packaging needs associated with a product’s intended distribution channel.

Often, in a prestige retail environment, the packaging and the retail sales associate combine to sell the product. Not so in mass market channels. The product is on a shelf with many competitors, and the packaging becomes the primary way to communicate the purpose and benefits to the consumer.

This difference results in packaging variations. “Prestige brands usually have much less copy as opposed to the mass brands, which by vying for valuable shelf space, try to shout the brand’s message louder than the brand next to it,” says Glyn Eppy, president of The Design Spot, New York City.

“Mass market brands compete through… product color, label and who can present the largest billboard on the store shelf,” says David Snyder, design director for TricorBraun Design Group in Clarendon Hills, IL.
    
Another key difference between prestige and mass brand packaging is cost. Prestige brands typically invest more in packaging and as a result, packages are often more customized and ornate than mass market brand packaging.
    
“Packages headed for the prestige channels tend to be more expensive and unique. While mass market packaging is also heading towards a more distinctive look, it is significantly less expensive to produce,” says Lori Stevens, director of business services at Gilbreth Packaging, Croydon, PA.

Finally, mass market brands are produced for large volumes—brand owners need packaging that can be filled and assembled at high speeds. This is a limiting factor. “Many of the niche products launched by prestige brands could never be emulated by the large multinationals, even if the right price point was achieved, because the manufacturing processes could not meet the stringent demands for huge weekly production rates,” comments Rebecca Goswell, group creative director for London-based HCT Packaging.

Blurring of the Lines

Although there are inherent differences, lately the distinction between mass market packaging and prestige market packaging has blurred. Perhaps this is indicative of a blurring throughout the entire retail chain.

According to Strategic Research Institute, one out of seven U.S. households currently earns a six-figure income. Despite its affluence, Americans have an interesting take on purchasing luxury.

“Exclusivity for the sake of exclusivity, as expressed by the European luxury ideal, is not what American luxury consumers value. Rather it’s an exclusiveness derived from the ability to express a personal point of view, an attitude and one’s uniqueness,” according to Unity Marketing’s Luxury Report 2005.
    
The message: affluent consumers will purchase from mass markets if it meets their needs and desires. The “cross-over consumer,” as Vonda Simon, president of SeaCliff Packaging, Newport Beach, CA, describes it, is a consumer that “will shop in specialty retail for certain items and then shop at mass market for others…She may buy Burberry at Neiman Marcus and buy pantyhose at Wal-Mart.”
    
Luxury-minded consumers shopping at mass market has helped blur the distinction, but there are more tangible factors as well.

“The line between mass and prestige looks blurs day by day,” says Grubow. Technology continues to morph at lightning speed, from initial development to launch. Mass is able to pick up on physical trends, from prestige (colors, finishes, product dispensing) as well as product offerings (conceptual ingredients, skin care kits) much quicker.”
    
Outsourcing overseas has brought cost down, making custom tooling and packaging more economical. While this has opened a door for mass products and custom looks, there are other costs that remain a barrier for custom packages.
    
“Because offshore tooling prices have come down, it has given the mass market brands access and increased opportunity into some of the custom components that in the past only the prestige market brands could afford,” says Snyder. “Although now able to branch into more custom components, the problem the mass market package will face is in filling and decorating…more custom shapes demand slower line speeds and more complicated equipment to fill, decorate and cap the packaging.”

    
Enter Metal

Metal exudes luxury. It has been a hallmark of the prestige beauty market, and lately, metal looks have invaded the beauty aisles of mass markets.
    
On primary packages, brand marketers have been making use of metallized plastic componentry, metallic labels and metallic shrink sleeves. Metallic Pantone colors and foil highlights have also been popular decorations.
    
For example, Charles Worthington London launched its Dream Hair line nationwide in Rite Aid and 145 Ulta Stores in August. Its packaging utilizes a lilac color palette and foil floral accents. The vintage-style label artwork was produced by Pamco Label Company. Berry Plastics provided the styling tube and the bottles were purchased from M&H. The strategic touch of metal embellishments, paired with its monochromatic color scheme, helped the brand make its luxurious statement.
    
For those brands considering foil embellishments, Grubow offers this tip to bring the cost of stamping down: “Cold stamping can be more cost effective versus hot stamping, without sacrificing quality.” Although hot stamping is the norm, the cold stamping process is becoming increasingly common. Cold stamping is the transferring of foil to label material using adhesive and pressure.
    
In addition to enhancing primary containers, metal looks are also being used to enhance secondary cartons. “Foil cartons are very popular now. What’s hot in fashion transcends into packaging, and metal is still hot and happening in fashion for the fall,” says Eppy.
    
The Design Spot recently completed a project for Scarguard MD, whose products are housed in silver foil folding cartons. To add color to the metallic backdrop, transparent and opaque inks were overlaid. Strategic embossing completes the prestige, clean look of the skin care products.

The Allure of Plastic

Plastic has done an excellent job of mimicking glass, a technology that has been embraced by both mass market and luxury brands. Several sleek-looking mass market brands today have achieved the high-end look of heavy-walled glass through the use of plastic.
    
“Ponds in China uses a double-wall, plastic primary container to deliver a quality impression. Even private label brands are investing in aesthetics. The CVS-exclusive Skin Effects [by Dr. Jeffrey Dover] also uses stock double-walled plastic containers, with metallic silver accents,” says Grubow.
    
Plastic serves other purposes as well. Some mass marketers are exchanging paperboard for plastic in their secondary packaging. Olay Definity uses a molded plastic shell for its secondary packaging. Eight products in the Olay Regenerist line are housed in flexible plastic packages.

Although some brands are moving from paperboard to plastic, paperboard is by no means obsolete. It remains popular because of its wide variety of decoration possibilities.
    
“Card continues to grow in popularity due to flexibility and graphic potential. New materials like faux leather, flocking and metal embellishments add to a luxe feel,” says Goswell.

Accoutrements

Other packaging trends that were once largely the domain of prestige brands are creeping into the mass market. According to Simon of SeaCliff Packaging, “adding jewels or ‘bling’ to a product to make it appear more luxe is affordable today for the average brand.”
    
For example, Sally Hansen Diamond Strength No Chip Nail Color, sold at retail for $4.50 each, has enhanced its primary packaging with the addition of a crystal. The accessory complements one of the brand’s main selling points—micro-diamond particles in the formulation.
    
Costs have come down in recent years, making accessories more affordable.         
“There is a growing trend toward minute, pocket-friendly componentry which crosses over into jewelry/accessory territory. Band and phone charms will become in-line items—elements of luxe created by the addition of small jewels and dangling embellishments sourced from the Far East,” says Goswell.

Sleeves and Labels

Labels have always been a staple for mass market brands. Improving label technologies have enabled brand owners to make a stronger statement.
    
“Labels today are more sophisticated, offer more graphics, and are great when it comes to commitment or lack thereof,” says Simon. “Labels afford the brand owners a chance to be fickle and still forgiving in their marketing ideas. Rather than lose the cost of the entire package, you can lose the cost of the labels and create new ones.”
    
Multi-paneled labels are heavily used in the market today as well, such as the booklet label utilized in the Olay Definity line. While more costly than a regular label, a booklet label allows mass marketers the opportunity to include required copy and keep valuable space for graphics.
    
Shrink sleeves are making headway into the beauty industry. Like labels, sleeves offer brand marketers the opportunity to use bold, colorful graphics. As an added benefit, marketers can make use of a 360 degree printing space.
    
The trend is also crossing into prestige channels. “Recent markets, such as tanning products, have now put full shrink sleeves on custom bottles that sell for more than $70. With new color improvements, increased shrink capabilities and lower costs, the shrink sleeve is a new option to help pull product off the shelf—regardless of how low or high the sell points,” says Snyder.
    
Shrink sleeve supplier Gilbreth has recently added environmentally friendly iridescent shrink film to its growing product offering, which produces a kaleidoscopic pattern of color. Many other effects can be achieved through the use of shrink sleeves.
    
“We can produce shrink labels that take advantage of new technologies for metallized film, thermochromic inks, aroma encapsulation and iridescent film,” says Gilbreth’s Stevens.

Texture

Adding texture to a mass market package offers brand owners the ability to reach consumers another way: through the use of touch. There are several ways to economically include texture into a package.
    
“Tactile effects with raised inks or substrates that add delight to the consumer experience should be considered,” says Grubow.
    
“We love the use of texture, whether using a textured paper substrate or using embossing. It is a very simple and economical way to add value and an upscale look without adding a lot to the cost,” says Eppy.

Adding a Little Luxe

Given improving technologies and increased competition, how does a mass market brand stay on the cutting edge of packaging design? A successful mass market package must push innovation while considering tight cost parameters and filling and assembly requirements.
    
Strategic touches such as metal embellishments, the addition of accessories, or eye catching substrates are now realistic choices for mass market brands.  The main challenge is standing out without marring a luxurious look.
    
“Mass has to strike the balance between being noticed and standing out from the competitive set, while conveying a sophisticated, premium and credible look,” Grubow explains. No easy feat, but mass marketers today have more choices available to unveil a prestige look.