05.04.09
| Zorbit Resources recently teamed with brand FCUK to launch its Connect fragrance packaging, which features a polished, chrome-stamped, aluminum outer casing. |
Taking a Shine to Metal
Metal accounts for a small percentage of beauty packaging, but when it comes to brand differentiation and luxury image, it packs a mighty punch.
By Leah Genuario, Contributing Editor
While the lion’s share of cosmetic and personal care packaging utilizes plastic, metal containers remain a viable—albeit small—minority within the beauty packaging industry. After realizing a notable decline in market share throughout much of the 1990s, metal packaging in the beauty segment is fighting back thanks to new shape advancements, niche growth, and its reputation as a prestige material, according to Cosmetic and Toiletry Containers, a 2008 report from The Freedonia Group.
The market research firm estimates U.S. demand for metal cosmetic and toiletry containers will realize a small gain of 1.4% per year through 2012. The Freedonia Group says advances in full-body aluminum can shaping have broadened application possibilities for the material, and growth is additionally expected with “smaller-volume metal cosmetic and toiletry containers, such as non-aerosol aluminum bottles and decorative metal tins.” However, according to the report, “metal will remain a small player in the cosmetic and toiletry container mix as plastic processing advances enable the production of packaging that has a metallic look.
Metal’s projected growth lags behind the projected growth of other packaging materials. The study contends that in 2007, metal containers accounted for 5.4% of total cosmetic and toiletry container demand. It’s projected to slip to 4.8% of the total market by 2017.
| All-Pak teamed with the EarthScents brand to launch these cleverly packaged candles. |
Why might a brand marketer choose a metal container over plastic? “Almost exclusively [for] image or brand identification,” says Chamberlin.
As any beauty marketer knows, image is everything. For this reason, metal is currently a great way to differentiate from other brands and make a high-impact statement.
Another key finding in The Freedonia Group’s report is that metal offers “product differentiation advantages in both primary and secondary packaging applications.” Metal packaging offers brand marketers an excellent opportunity to create a package that stands out from the
competition. In a sea of plastic bottles, a metal container can provide an unmatched feel and
a look of luxury. As society becomes more conscious of its ecological footprint, metal
also offers plenty of benefits to those who want to be green.
| ElementAl Container recently launched its new aluminum lotion pump. |
For example, Zorbit Resources recently teamed with brand FCUK to launch its Connect fragrance packaging, an eye-catching his and hers pairing that features a polished, chrome-stamped, aluminum
outer casing.
In this particular project, aluminum was the metal of choice, but it isn’t the only metal material Zorbit utilizes in its projects. “Metal forming is a core competency of Zorbit,” says Kestenbaum. “Depending on the brand and the package, we draw from metal materials including tin, stainless steel, aluminum, Zamac and in the most luxurious cases, brass.”
The Popularity of Aluminum
The most common metal used in beauty packaging projects is aluminum, says Kestenbaum. Its popularity stems from a number of reasons.
The first reason for aluminum’s allure is its manufacturing benefits. It is “very easy to
manufacture and has great characteristics when you heat it and stretch it. It is also very durable,” says Jeffrey Hayet, executive vice president of global sales for World Wide Packaging, Florham Park, NJ.
Experts explain that aluminum’s coloring capabilities surpass many other materials,
allowing brand marketers tremendous versatility in choosing colors, a second reason for
aluminum’s popularity.
| Decorex, from Sweden-based Sandvik Material Technology, is a stainless steel solution with multiple environmental benefits. |
Finally, aluminum is increasingly seen as an environmentally responsible packaging choice. “The recycling chain for aluminum is one of the most prolific and accessible throughout the world,” explains Kestenbaum.
Despite this, there is still a ways to go before aluminum gains the green reputation of paper. “Most consumers do not intrinsically associate metal as a green material,” says Kestenbaum. “Metal is therefore a less powerful marketing tool when used toward the environmentally aware customer.”
There are also some considerations in regards to recycling.
Hayet explains that purchasing recycled aluminum is more expensive than virgin materials. In addition, a supplier needs to ensure “there’s a consistent supply of the same type of alloy.” He adds, “You also want to use recycled aluminum-based alloys from safe sources, such as cosmeticand personal care applications.” Integrity of the recycled material is critical.
Additional Metals Used in Packaging
Stainless steel is also a viable choice for beauty packages. Sandvik Material Technology, headquartered in Sandviken, Sweden with a U.S. office in Benton Harbor, MI, has announced the introduction of Decorex, a stainless steel solution made from 80% recycled stainless steel. The material is also 100% recyclable.
Jérémy Gaspard, marketing executive for the company, sees several benefits of steel versus aluminum. “The main benefit of our Decorex compared with anodized aluminum remains the fact that our coloration process never uses any polluting chemicals like acids or paint,” he says. Gaspard backs up his claims with several statistics from Granta Material Intelligence Company, a Paris-based material intelligence agency. The agency has determined that the aluminum CO2 footprint is 12Kg for every 1Kg of aluminum, while the stainless steel CO2 footprint is 5Kg for every 1Kg of stainless steel.
| HCT Packaging’s Chop Box is a stock component made with Zamac, a cost-effective zinc and aluminum alloy. |
To add color, the Sandvik coating process is utilized. The process involves an “advanced vacuum process where metal oxides of various types and in different combinations are integrated with the metal surface of the strip. The resulting color layer has a thickness of less than one micron,” says Gaspard.
The first beauty packaging products employing Decorex will be launched worldwide starting
in late 2009.
Another material used for beauty packaging is Zamac, a zinc and aluminum alloy. It behaves differently than aluminum. “The way you form the aluminum and Zamac are different. Certain shapes that can be achieved in Zamac are impossible or more difficult in aluminum. Zamac has more weight,” says Aviva Himoff, president of Préface Deux, New York City, “and is limited in the finishes it can achieve. It cannot
be anodized.”
Zamac also offers several beneficial characteristics. “Zamac tooling costs are relatively inexpensive compared to similar plastic counterparts. This lower barrier to entry makes it an excellent manufacturing process for smaller brands to create very luxurious custom components,” says Kestenbaum.
“Heavy and luxurious, Zamac is used because it is comparatively easy to injection mold. It is also very cost-effective to tool and the cost of making a tool for Zamac injection is a fraction of that of plastic,” says Rebecca Goswell, global creative director for HCT Packaging, London. “Zamac is much heavier than aluminum, although aluminum is part of the alloy.”
| Préface Deux has successfully paired aluminum with a number of different materials, such as here, for the Prada fragrance line. |
HCT is also offering a stock Chop Box in three different options: a shallow base for baked product, a deeper base for poured product and a mini-version for hot pour. Depending upon the option chosen, customers can enhance the stock piece with charms and straps.
Metal: Team Player
Metal is often paired with plastic in beauty packaging constructions. This provides the best of both worlds: the ability for innovative shapes and textures, with the shiny, prestige-look of metal. It offers many ways to enhance a brand’s image.
“We see plastic and metal all the time,” ElementAl Container’s Ramet explains. “You have manufacturing constraints with metal. This is why you very often pair it with plastic. For instance, you can use [metal] as an over-shell for a plastic pump or for a cap. Another thing you can do is to add a plastic window in an aluminum cap.”
In an excellent example of the harmonious marriage between plastic and metal, ElementAl Container recently announced the addition of an aluminum lotion pump designed to be compatible with its line of brushed aluminum bottles. The pumps are manufactured with a 24/410 neck finish and a twist-and-lock feature. Supplied in a matte finish, the stock items can be ordered in small quantities.
Préface Deux has successfully paired aluminum with a number of different materials. For the Prada fragrance line, Tesem—a company represented by Preface Deux—utilized three different materials to create the fragrance caps. “The look was created with aluminum shells on the top and bottom, cardboard and an inner plastic lining,” says Himoff.
Leather has also been successfully paired with metal. “Tesem developed an oval, aluminum cap with a glue-applied piece of leather for Aigner. To further enhance the luxury feel and look, the cap also includes a weighted inner piece,” explains Himoff.
Decorating Metal
The decoration method is where aluminum really shines. In a decorated aluminum container or component, “you have a feel of elegance. All plastics can’t be molded to all colors. You’ll never achieve the brilliance injecting molding plastics as you would anodizing aluminum. It’s just a whole different animal,” comments Hayet.
The primary way to decorate an aluminum container is through anodization, a dipping or spraying process intended to impart a thin film of aluminum oxide on the aluminum’s surface. Anodization provides scuff and scratch resistance, product protection, and of course, color.
Further branding opportunities can be achieved through embossing or debossing of logos and various other techniques.
“Finishes can be achieved by anodizing, double anodizing, laser engraving or with special chemicals to achieve different finishes and touch,” says Himoff. For example, Preface Deux has completed projects decorated with a soft touch finish.
Himoff explains that double-anodizing has many benefits. “It provides greater product
compatibility and it allows for stronger, sharper metallic colors. Most people would
prefer to double anodize,” says Himoff.
However, “There are other methods of deco on aluminum, which are used besides double anodizing—like silk screening or hot stamping—that are less costly.”
With the recession in full swing, brands are always looking for ways to cut costs without hurting quality. Himoff has observed that many brands are re-using their existing tools to launch limited editions. The brands use the same components, but differentiate with colors and finishes for an eye-catching new look.
Metal Look, but Hold the Metal
Perhaps the largest trend involving metal is the practice of creating a metal look on paper, plastic or glass. A walk down any beauty aisle will confirm this trend.
To meet this demand, laminating, coating and metalizing specialist Unifoil Corporation offers the proprietary UniLustre and patented and patents-pending UltraLustre transfer metallizing processes. Papers and boards treated with the UniLustre process are recyclable materials that can be used to create labels and folding cartons. The UltraLustre process is for plastics. It is a foil-free process that can be used—among other applications—for personal care product tubes.
Both processes can be applied selectively, allowing for detailed patterns such as a look of lace. The processes are available in silver, custom colors and holographics.
Glass can also be metallized. “I see a lot of metallizing glass. That’s a trend,” comments Himoff. “When you metallize, you can execute many beautiful designs. You can engrave the surfaces, do partial metallizing and spray different colors. There are many options when metallizing on glass or applying lacquer to metallic finishes.”
