04.28.11
The annual global beauty show launched in perfect sync with the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy.
Several noticeable changes marked the 44th edition of the expansive Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, known by locals simply as La Fiera, which took place March 18-21 at its traditional venue—the rambling maze of buildings at Bologna’s fairgrounds.
Festivities throughout the country, such as those in Bologna’s Piazza Maggiore, brought out the Italian masses to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy, and added to Cosmoprof organizer SoGeCos’ delight in producing an event that they say showcased the best of Italy.
Bologna’s Piazza Maggiore, where hundreds celebrated the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy. ©www.paolopeggi.com |
National celebrations shifted the start day of the annual beauty show to Friday, a day later than the Thursday commencement of previous years. In addition, Cosmopack, “the packaging show within the show” no longer held its exclusive draw on Day 1, as Cosmoprof expanded to the full four days. Show management stated that the new schedule better met the needs of international attendees interested in visiting the entire exhibition in Bologna. Attendance numbers released by the fair’s organizers support the revisions, with increased first day ticket sales.
This year’s show was also held a month earlier than usual, a change which Cosmoprof management attributed to companies’ requests to present launches earlier in the year.
100% Italian
Upon reporting this year’s exhibitor and attendance stats, Fabio Roversi Monaco, president of BolognaFiere announced with nationalistic pride, “Data confirms the smashing international success of a 100% Italian exhibition that brings considerable prestige to the industry.”
Roversi Monaco reported double digit growth over 2010, and said attendance figures confirmed “a massive return by foreign visitors, mostly from the U.S., France, Germany, Eastern Europe and the Arab countries. The attendance of Indian, Oriental, and Australian [attendees] has shown the new, great, real drives for the consumption growth in the cosmetics market segment.”
Foreign visitors numbered 36,076, an increase of 8% over the previous year. Italian visitors increased by 25% over 2010 (28,284 additional and a total of 141,211). In all, Roversi Monaco reported 177,287 attendees (an increase of 30,956 over 2010—the chaotic year of volcanic eruptions at Eyjafjallajökull).
On the Packaging Scene
In total, Cosmoprof organizers reported 2,300 exhibitors from 58 countries across the globe.
While packaging pavilions 19 and 20 hosted what seemed to be an increased share of companies demonstrating packaging and filling machines, Beauty Packaging’s publisher Jay Gorga and I visited a number of international firms that were showcasing packaging innovations from stock lines to signature products. Nail polish and mascara again received a lot of attention with a number of innovative bottles and brushes. Also spotted in abundance: Pharmaceutical-looking packaging, such as a preponderance of amber glass bottles with black or white droppers in a variety of sizes; and decorative techniques from multicolor screened inserts to metallized caps. Refillable airless pouches highlighted a growing trend in sustainability, as did a number of wooden components. Full service is also a trend that seems set to expand further, with many companies telling us that they had added services to meet growing customer needs. Mini sizes are also increasing in popularity due to emerging markets, airline regulations and on-the-go lifestyles.
While some suppliers reported that things seemed quieter in the packaging aisles this year, others had scheduled back-to-back client meetings and were occupied with visitors throughout the show. Many meetings were held deep within booths to keep innovative launches confidential.
Nails Down
At Baralan/Arrowpak, a number of tables were taken up with company representatives and prospective buyers from global brands. Jim Slowey of Arrowpak commented on the change in Cosmopack’s exclusivity, saying. “I still think one dedicated day is good for packaging.” But, afterall, it didn’t appear to slow attendees’ interest in the manufacturer, especially in light of the company’s expertise in one of the industry’s most vibrant channels of late.
Stackable nail polish bottles drew attention at Baralan/Arrowpak. |
Piramal Glass, too, was doing a brisk business in nail polish bottles. According to their booth representative, the company produces about 1.4 billion pieces annually. While Piramal claims to hold 38% of the market share in nail polish bottles, the company also specializes in select, high-end glass perfume bottles and a variety of decorative techniques.
Bottled Up
Gerresheimer, also with a specialization in glass (and also in plastic packaging products for the prestige and masstige segment), creates custom molds for individual solutions. According to Marion Stolzenwald, corporate communication & marketing, they have six plants that turn out molded glass, with a diverse range of shapes, colors, surface finishes and materials.
Gerresheimer showcased the slimline bottles they had produced for Paris Hilton’s new trio of fragrances. |
Bormioli Rocco emphasized its plastics division at this year’s show, featuring its new launch of cosmetics bottles with names of heroines from operas by Verdi and Bellini. For example, the PETG pack named for Alzira, the Peruvian heroine of Cammarano’s libretto, features an angular shape and a square base, while the Leonora line offers simple, elegantly shaped bottles in PETG and PE, ideal for products such as bath foams and hair products. Also highlighted was the Norma line of small-sized PE bottles suitable for hair and skin treatment products for the hotel sector, and low environmental impact packs, including bottles made using bioplastic resins.
Sustainable Choices
As with Bormioli Rocco, many packaging suppliers presented sustainable options, including refillables, housed in airless bottles.
At Joycos, we saw a square-shaped airless bottle with an easily refillable pouch. Also on display were refillable pouch systems in airless tubes, squeeze tubes and hard tubes. Other shapes are in development. An airtight compact was also featured; the booth representative explained that due to developments in silicon and soft plastic elastomers, the component is no longer complicated to produce.
At Lablabo, the company’s Brio line of airless pouch dispensers was the star, due to its trio of features: protection, functionalities and affordability. Protection is afforded via its aluminum foil pouch and standard self-sealing actuator. Functionalities include a lockable actuator, protection against oxygen and UV and adaptable pump dosage. Small quantities, light weight and an optional cap add to its affordability. Bottles are available from 30- to 100ml, with a variety of decoration techniques. Lablabo is part of the Airless Pack Association, which sales manager Sebastien Rumpler explained, is a group of six airless manufacturers whose mission is to educate consumers about genuine airless systems and to eventually certify true airless packaging components.
Liz Ludwig, brand manager at MWV, explained the all-plastic Adagio pump they were introducing for products like face cream and foundation. Because there are no metal parts, it’s easy to recycle. She said sustainability is an important criterion at MWV, and the Adagio pump follows consumers’ demands as well as those from brands. She elaborated on the shift in product development over the years. “It used to be,” she said, “that you make what you make and go out and sell it. Now, you find out what the consumer wants and make what they need.”
MWV also continues to respond to customers looking for suppliers who offer expanded services. Ludwig described how MWV has expanded its full-service capabilities. For instance, in addition to making pumps and sprayers, they now manufacture the board for the folding cartons they produce.
The Eyes—and Lips—Have It
Geka, too, announced new capabilities. Pilar Gonzalez-Gomez, VP marketing, explained that the German-based manufacturer will now offer all production services from a single source: applicator, packaging, graphics and decoration—as well as brand-new cosmetic filling capabilities (August 2011). Eyeliner, mascara, and lipgloss will be filled on fully automated, flexible, state-of-the-art equipment. Customers can provide their own fill or Geka will buy it from their sources.
Geka now offers a full line of production services, including 3D Surface Refinement, a new surface finishing technology with a tactile sensation. |
Albéa, which specializes in both standard products and customer launches, introduced a number of new mascara innovatons, including the Diorshow 360, the luxury brand’s first rotating mascara. Marjorie Vincenti showed us how the rotating brush design allows for a professional makeup result in record time, thanks to the stable, silent and gentle revolving action. The galvanized silver ring on the bottom of the cap, an elegant reflection of the Dior style, activates the rotating device, which turns the wand upward or downward for easy application. The mascara uses Albéa’s double helix brush. The manufacturer had just received a Cosmoprof Packaging Design Beauty Award for its TIO (two in one) mascara, and had launched five new brushes for Cosmoprof. New offerings are essential because “some brands,” explained Vincenti, “launch three to four mascaras a year.”
Albéa had also relaunched its cream dispenser with roller in a variety of sizes and levels of decoration for formulas from aftershave to body cream. Vincenti also showed us lots of tube applicators and lots of droppers. “Droppers are back,” she said. “The trend of application continues—people want the experience of applying.”
HCT Wins Three Awards
Nick Gardner, executive vice president, HCT CA, commented: “HCT …is absolutely elated to have won three awards at this year’s Packaging Design Beauty Awards. From the pop-up palette for Urban Decay’s New York Book of Shadows 3 to our brand development designs for Tokidoki for Sephora, we are thrilled to have such amazing collaborations with such fantastic brands. By working together, we have achieved unique and original designs that have been acknowledged with such prestigious awards. In particular, HCT has spent many years developing environmentally friendly designs that are realistic in their post-consumer recyclability, so it is a great honor to have won the special green concept award for the Hourglass Femme Rouge Lipstick.”
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