Marie Redding, Senior Editor08.30.19
MakeUp in Paris marked its 10th anniversary with a celebration of color at the annual b2b event on June 20 and 21 at the Carrousel du Louvre. This year’s show featured 164 exhibitors, including 12 who were also a part of its first edition in 2010.
The team at Beauteam, along with representatives from the original 12 exhibiting companies, stood in line at the entrance to cut a red ribbon and open the show.
The informal opening ceremony included Eisen’s Wolfram Leistner, Livcer’s Aude de Livonniere, Sleever’s Eric Fresnel, Strand Cosmetics Europe’s Denis Richard-Orliange, Weckerle Cosmetics’ Thomas Weckerle, Fiabila’s Estelle Miasnik, B.Kolormakeup’s Mario de Luigi, Schwan Cosmetics’ Barbara Bauer Kropf, Ancorotti Cosmetics’ Enrica and Renato Ancorotti, Quadpack’s Tim Eaves, Faber-Castell’s Comtesse Marie Von Faber Castell, and Shya Hsin Group’s Kate Kong.
Color was evident everywhere on the show floor, from the Innovation Tree’s bright red leaves to the newest bold, bright cosmetic pigments—as well as the numerous packages on display at suppliers’ stands, sparkling in shiny metallics, neon brights, and vivid primary hues.
There were 54 Innovation Tree winners, which included three that were named “Millennials Favorite” by the Morgane Hilgers Academy students—ItaliCosmetici’s Man Foundation, GeoTech’s GeoPearl C Crystal Glittering Titanium, and CIT Co’s Colorful Lip Powder.
One Innovation Tree winner on display at the show’s entrance was an electric blue powder pigment by Maprecos —and it caught everyone’s eye. Visitors also didn’t miss the display featuring Brivaplast’s neon-colored mascara brushes. Another Innovation Tree winner, although not as colorful, was the Cork Palette by Cosmei. It is made from recyclable cork and paper.
Sandra Maguarian, co-founder and show manager, and Manal Ghazzali, marketing and communication manager were often at the ‘MakeUp In’ booth near the entrance, ready to help visitors by providing maps of the show floor—and hand out champagne.
The tribute to color continued at the far end of the show floor, where a long line of young artists sat in front of easels painting on canvas. Each artist was asked to use the Louvre, or makeup as inspiration. The paintings were later sold at an auction to benefit Cosmetic Executive Women in France.
Tucked away in another corner of the show floor, makeup artists applied full body paint to models who were participating in the show’s annual “makeup parade.”
An 'Iconic Beauty Colors' Exhibit
Walking straight back to the end of the floor near the conference area, the exhibit “Iconic Beauty Colors” featured a tribute to three colors frequently used in beauty, and fashion—black, red and pink.“Each, in its own way, symbolizes the beauty of yesterday, today, and tomorrow,” stated a display. The exhibit was created by the agency Olivier Guillemin and Olivier Vedrine. Guillemin is the president of the non-profit organization, The French Committee of Color.
Black represents “mystery, luxury, chic, timelessness, gothic styles, rock,” the display stated. Chic black and gold vintage packaging was featured, including a lipstick by Guerlain from 1968-1970, and a lipstick case that resembled a refillable lighter. It was made in 1950 in Bakelite, with gold brass accents.
Red symbolizes “glamour, life, red carpet, revolution, lust, flames,” the display stated. A smiling photo of Marilyn Monroe wearing red lipstick hung above a table, which displayed shiny apples and red makeup. Natural red pigment from the Mathieu factory sat next to its source—a block of red ocher from Roussillon, France.
Pink conveys “shocking, dreamy, romantic, delight, blush of pleasure,” the sign read, which was on display next to a photo of Proudly Pink Fashion Model Barbie, who has bubblegum pink hair styled in a ’60s updo, and wears fuschia pink from head to toe. The highlight of this area was a mannequin wearing a glamorous Dutchess satin Schiaparelli haute couture coat and trouser set in shocking pink, from the designer’s AW 2018/19 collection.
Suppliers Feature Bold, Bright Makeup & Packaging
The show’s colorful theme continued at many suppliers’ booths. Lumson featured its APP Airless line, which utilizes pouch technology—and the pouches inside the clear bottles were vivid, primary colors, in red, blue, and green, to attract the attention of visitors walking by.The pouches can be produced in single-layer or multi-layer styles, depending upon the barrier properties a formula requires. The collection also has an eco-friendly feature—the pumps can be easily separated from the bottles after use, for recycling.
Crystal Claire Cosmetics’ booth was lit up in neon lights, with a pink couch—and the makeup on display was just as bright. Starburst patterns in sunset-inspired colors adorned blush, highlighter and bronzer compacts. Eyeshadow palettes featured glistening golds and browns.
Kirker displayed a full line of new colors and bright effects for nail polish. The supplier featured its unique marble finishes for nails.
Beauty Yaurient’s Daisy Lam spoke to guests about the many new features their brushes offer, such as long handles that separate from the brush head to make applying easier, as well as carrying around. The supplier’s stand featured a multi-level display of all types of applicators and makeup brushes, in rainbow hues.
Walking by Nest Filler, a stylish display of 3ml mini syringes was hard to miss. The clear syringes were filled slightly with brightly colored additives near the base, and the colors resembled acrylic paint. Silver nozzles completed this package’s modern look.
Mickey Moon, senior manager, Nest Filler, explained that the company can also provide customized lip gloss wands, printed with a message. One on display said, “Dreams Come True.”
Denis Maurin, executive vice president, sales and innovation, HCT Group, spoke to visitors about the supplier’s many design and development capabilities. HCT often works with Indie brands to supply turnkey solutions, and helped launch the new brand Versed at Target. Colorful tubes and cartons designed for Versed were on display, in lemon yellow, mint green and peach, which were reminiscent of sherbet.
Neon-colored mascara brushes attracted attention at Brivaplast. The brushes feature a patented kernel-shaped bristle section, explained Marco Roda, the company’s business development manager. The brush shape helps to separate the lashes due to a larger surface area, which also helps it glide smoothly, easily picking up and releasing product.
Faber-Castell, makers of all types of pencil and pen eyeliners, lip liners and more, featured its Pastel Collection this year. The long-lasting mechanical pencil eyeliners are inspired by cupcakes, in pastel hues. They are available in light pink, baby blue, lemon yellow, and light green. The gel-like formula delivers outstanding payoff with a supersoft application.
Faber-Castell also offers a liner collection infused with anti-aging and moisturizing ingredients, called the Privil’age Collection. The collection includes eyeliners and lipliners infused with active natural oils, hydrating ingredients, and special powders for a silky-smooth glide.
Baralan featured a range of nail polish bottles on display, filled with bright red polish enticing visitors to stop and take a look. The supplier offers glass bottles in a variety of shapes and sizes, and many are available as stock items. A range of different cap styles provides more options for a custom look.
Beauty Packaging Designed to Perform
Functionality is just as important as aesthetics, in packaging—and suppliers didn’t disappoint.Virospack’s Joanna Milne demonstrated its Ring Push Button Dropper, designed for convenient one-handed dispensing. Push down on the cap, and it dispenses a product. The unisex design offers a wide neck size, which can accommodate large bottles. The supplier also displayed its stylish variety of dropper shapes.
Elisabetta Albizzati, sales, NastriTex spoke to visitors about the company’s high-tech textiles and other innovative materials for cosmetic machinery. Its ‘material of the year,” TechMix, is a multiple layer ribbon useful during the process of producing and filling pressed powder compacts. The company also supplies the materials necessary to produce powder compacts with engraved designs.
Eco-Conscious Features
Since all beauty brands seem now to be focused more on sustainability, suppliers are developing new ways to use more eco-friendly materials in packaging.Pennelli Faro’s Ecosophy brush collection is made with 100% recycled materials, is recyclable, and is produced using clean energy. The synthetic brushes feature recycled aluminum ferrules, with recycled filaments.
Cosmogen featured an extensive collection of tubes, many in PCR. Designed for skincare, the tubes feature innovative dispensing caps and applicators to apply products more effectively, such as jade rollers, or massaging roller ball tips. Larger size tubes with these features are also available, and ideal for anti-cellulite body creams. Cosmogen also offers a variety of applicators, including textured sponges in new shapes, designed to make applying makeup easier.
Quadpack featured its refillable range of bottles made from bio-based plastic inside, with wood on the outside. Sonia Cerato, category manager, Makeup Division at Quadpack desribed it as “sustainable luxe.”
More Options for Makeup
Pretty patterns, including glistening decorations that sparkled adorned lip gloss caps at Axilone’s booth. Morgan Sochon, Axilone’s communication manager, showed visitors their extensive range of lip gloss packaging, and many styles are available in mini sizes.Weckerle featured lipsticks with heart-shaped designs, rose patterns, and more. Some were in the center of the bullet, in another color, made from a moisturizing balm.
Pressed powder makeup was on display at Thai Ho Group. Pretty patterns on the makeup powder included wavy swirls inspired by a mollusk shell. Colors were reminiscent of a tropical sunset, with golden yellow, warm coral, and hot pink. “The gradient effect that we can create is unique,” explained Sandra Wu, vice general manager, as she showed the effect inside a compact; the powder changed from a pale peachy-pink to deep coral.
Derik’s Rick Persons showed visitors a large range of lip gloss packaging, and many have matching mini sizes. “Our lip gloss packages are designed with a long neck for easy filling, without the need for a cheater band,” Persons explains. “We also have an extensive mother-daughter collection, which are full sizes with matching minis,” he says.
APR Beauty featured their stylish line of bottles and jars with bamboo collars and caps. The supplier also showed visitors “makeup sheets”—unique papers infused with color cosmetics.
They look like blotting paper, but can contain blush, highlighter, and even lip gloss. To use, press the paper against your skin and the makeup is released. “They’re great for travel,” said Irene Zheng, the company’s president. She adds, “It’s also a very ‘green’ design.”