Jamie Matusow, Editor-in-Chief03.03.22
While mask-wearing continues to influence the dominance of Color Cosmetic products and packaging directed at unobscured Eyes, the Lip and Cheek categories are poised for increased exposure—and a strong retail comeback—as Covid cases drop, cheeks blush and smiles emerge.
“Clean beauty,” which has never been more popular, continues to drive trends across the industry. According to Trendalytics, #CleanLook—with over 53M views on TikTok—the newest beauty trend to take over the app, is all about enhancing natural beauty, with Illuminating Foundation, Light Brown Eyeliner and Ice Globes leading the way. (For more on Trendalytics makeup trends, please see sidebar in this article.)
In response to rising e-commerce and continued demand for “natural and organic” and “cruelty-free” products, the color cosmetics market is anticipated to expand at a 5% CAGR over the forecast period 2021-2031, according to Future Market Insights (FMI). FMI had predicted in November 2021 that the global color cosmetics market would exceed $50 billion by the end of 2021.
APR Packaging’s CEO John Shen says he has noted the revival in the category, saying, “As the masks are coming off and we are going back to a new normal, all areas of color have been rapidly growing as the consumer is coming out wanting to look and feel his or her best. The lip category definitely took a big hit, but is coming back strong!”
We’re already seeing an uptick in Prestige. In late January 2022, Larissa Jensen, vice president, beauty industry advisor, The NPD Group—and a member of Beauty Packaging’s Board of Advisors—reported, “As consumers began to resume social and work activities, face makeup product sales, including foundation, primer, and tinted moisturizer, grew double digits, as did makeup-setting sprays and removers.”
The makeup category also showed growth in areas such as cream and stick blushes and other products popular in YouTube videos and other social media. In addition, says Jensen, brands created by makeup artists and social influencers had the highest revenue gains among all makeup brand categories.
Celebrities with strong social media followings top the list of bestselling makeup brands. A recent study from Money.co.uk analyzed more than 182 million Google searches and 105 million social media posts across the past 12 months, to rank the top 100 celebrity-owned brands, based on search volume and social chatter, across categories including beauty and cosmetics, and skincare.
Huda Beauty (Huda Kattan, with 49.7 million Instagram followers) secured the No. 1 spot, followed by Kylie Cosmetics (Kylie Jenner, with 25.4 million), Fenty Beauty (Rhianna, with 10.2 million), Jeffree Star (Jeffree Star, 6.4 million) and Florence by Mills (Millie Bobby Brown, 2.6 million).
Mintel, too, observed that the Color Cosmetics category is picking back up “after a steep hit in 2020.” The global research firm’s 2021 report on Color Cosmetics indicated a pending resurgence in the category, owing to the expected decline in Covid-19 cases and a return to more socialization.
Sustainability Drivers
Whether Eye, Lip or Cheek, Color Cosmetics brands are going full-speed ahead in providing sustainable solutions geared to consumer (and government) demand.APR Packaging’s Shen notes: “As consumers learn more about the impact of their purchasing decisions, they’ve come to expect their favorite brands to do their part to minimize packaging waste.”
Musa Dias, chief marketing officer, WWP Beauty, tells Beauty Packaging, “Sustainability is a key driver for all color cosmetic packaging innovation.”
WWP Beauty offers a vast array of sustainable solutions that cater to the diverse needs of each customer, including refillable systems, reduced carbon emissions, recyclable packaging, less plastic/less material, mono-material construction and packaging designed for disassembly.
A focus on eco-responsible packaging is also key at Cosmopak, where Walter Dwyer, president, says, “Many of our clients have sustainable packaging deadlines to meet, which has created a new approach to package design and needs.” However, he says the solution is not as simple as substituting virgin plastic for PCR because many companies have very specific sustainable objectives to meet.
“Most of our environmentally concerned brands want products to be fully recyclable, some want to eliminate plastic altogether and others are innovating eco-friendly changes to the way certain items are packaged,” explains Dwyer. “This provides great opportunities for Cosmopak as we have heavily invested in new material development and moved into more sustainable packaging options. The challenge is to provide solutions that don’t drive costs, don’t affect performance—and consumers want to see or feel the sustainability.”
Cosmopak recently developed a turnkey project for Clover by Clove + Hallow, “a new accessible clean makeup line.”
Every Clover product is packaged in a sustainable component. The brand prioritizes post-consumer-recycled plastics but also works with bioplastics, reusables, and recycled/recyclable paperboard. Clover is a 100% Plastic Neutral Certified company and for every pound of plastic they produce—including post-consumer recycled—they remove an equivalent amount of plastic from the environment. The products are developed based on a formulation principle called Clean15 and each item only uses 15 or less ingredients vetted for safety. All products are also cruelty-free, vegan and made in the U.S.
Cheryl Morgan, creative marketing manager, HCP Packaging, also says that the pandemic has accelerated how consumers expect beauty brands to incorporate sustainable aspects into their products.
“For brands with sustainability initiatives, the switch to PCR materials is being requested the most, alongside refill and mono-material packaging designs. Otherwise, portable and customizable formats are popular for convenience and late-stage differentiation,” says Morgan.
HCP now offers sustainable packaging solutions in Europe, Asia and North America, manufacturing high-quality cosmetics and skincare components molded with ISCC Plus certified chemically recycled materials from the Eastman Cristal Renew portfolio. ISCC Plus certification gives beauty brands the assurance of independent, third-party verification for recycled content claims.
Sustainability also plays a large role, “if not a leading role,” in packaging at SeaCliff Beauty, where Lynda Pare, senior account executive, says they are seeing a lot of brands taking interest in more refillable packaging options when it comes to color cosmetics. Another packaging initiative at SeaCliff is ‘lightweighting,’ which means reducing packaging materials such as secondary packaging or reducing the weight of the component so it uses less plastic.
Pare says brands are requesting sustainable packaging solutions such as refillable, PCR, bio-resins and other materials such as ocean plastic. “The industry continues to focus on reducing waste and the adoption of better manufacturing methods to reduce harmful gasses,” adds Pare.
At APC Packaging, Rick Ponte, vice president of project engineering, says, “Brands are moving to more sustainable materials in terms of packaging with a trend toward mono-material to make it easier on the consumer to recycle.” He says APC is also seeing more requests for PCR.
How Covid Has Affected the Color Cosmetics Market
Ponte, says, “Covid has definitely affected/delayed launches as brands try to deal with the current sales environment.”However, while there’s been a downside, the pandemic has also brought about new opportunities for brands, suppliers and retailers.
According to Emma Grace Bailey, senior strategist, at trend forecasting company WGSN, “Beauty brands and retailers have been forced to pivot their businesses, and while this disruption has ushered in many challenges, it has also given brands a chance to change and innovate.” (See Bailey’s full article in this issue.)
Angela Munoz, vice president of sales, Roberts Beauty, notes some of the changes that have taken place in the Color category, saying, “Brands have become more conservative with colors and are seeking a more minimalistic approach in both packaging and formula. The shift we saw at the beginning of the pandemic from color brands going into skincare, or color with skin benefits, remains strong, while brands built on color continue to keep emphasis on those categories.”
Cosmopak’s Dwyer also says that during the pandemic, some brands started shifting away from color and moving more toward skin care and/or treatment products. “To react to shifts in the marketplace we’ve seen great demand and interest in PCR and glass packaging,” he says.
Dwyer says Covid has affected consumer buying and usage patterns, which has impacted how brands launch and restock their lines. “We’ve seen far fewer launches and less hysteria or ‘must have’ reaction to new releases,” he explains. “Covid-related global port congestion and supply chain issues have also put enormous pressure on suppliers, necessitating a reevaluation of where we manufacture.” Cosmopak has a flexible and broad supply base, explains Dwyer, “so we are able to react to these shifts and still meet our clients’ needs easily.”
The new emphasis on digital opportunities that emerged during Covid has grown at a rapid pace, and inspired brands to re-create their products and packaging.
Covid has driven the beauty industry to become more digital, says WWP’s Dias. “Beauty is entering the metaverse, and brands must explore how they will approach inclusivity, sustainability and product connection in this new space. For digital facing packaging, brands need to ensure their packaging provides a memorable moment while being efficient and sustainable.”
HCP’s Morgan agrees, saying, “There is now much more focus on packaging that is e-commerce friendly as well, as brands increasingly rely more on online sales than brick-and-mortar stores. This puts eye-catching decoration and interactive formats center-stage.”
Shen, APR Packaging’s CEO, notes, “During the height of the pandemic we saw a huge decline in color development, due to the uncertainty of the world around us. Consumers were home, and when out, they masked up, requiring minimal product application. As humanity bounces back, demand for color cosmetics has been booming, and brands are looking to fill quick voids with color items that were placed on hold.”
Packaging Trend Spotting
As far as packaging for cosmetics, WGSN’s Bailey says the focus is on functional design that simplifies routines, “instilling practicality into everyday items.” She explains, “Multifunctional elements will emerge in the form of emotional support, with protective packaging made from soft, comforting materials soothing to the touch.” The ‘Refillution,’ says Bailey, leads the way, disrupting long-standing packaging designs to help consumers cut down on daily waste.“Monotones and bold blocks of color in packaging will subtly transform products into statement pieces and increase both real and digital shelf appeal,” adds Bailey. “Single-use packaging will be a thing of the past in 2023, as The Refillution dominates.
Consumers will expect packaging to last for several rounds, if not for life, while subscription and delivery refill services will see consumers borrow packs, sending them back to be refilled and reused when empty.”
Materials too have evolved. WWP Beauty’s Dias tells Beauty Packaging, “In addition to eco-design strategies, sustainable material choices can also help tell a unique packaging story.” She says, “WWP Beauty is highly committed to staying at the forefront of material innovation and strategic partnerships.” Some of their most recent material selections include PCR, Plastic-Free Plant-Based Resins, Ocean Plastic, and Molecular Recycled Resins.
At HCP, Morgan says, “Sustainability is by far the biggest topic we are discussing with our customers, particularly packaging formats for refill, mono-material and PCR. Forward-thinking brands are also incorporating bio-based materials.” HCP exclusively offers the innovative materials ‘EcoWood’ and also ‘Eco-Flexi’ (for mascara applicators), as well as bio-based fiber mascara brushes.
“The major trends continue to focus on sustainability and innovation, expanding the use of mono-material including PET or aluminum for all types of packaging including caps, jars, lipsticks, lipgloss and compacts,” says Axilone’s Julie Vergnion, marketing & communication manager (USA and Europe).
At APR Packaging, Shen, says, “We’re seeing increasing interest in highly specialized applicators, non-petroleum-based packaging options and refillables, utilizing materials such as bamboo, glass, bagasse, minerals, etc.”
APR recently launched a patent-approved refillable pen system, with a unique dropper applicator. According to Shen, “This cost-effective and environmentally friendly option provides a precise dosage application for many color items including serum foundations, concealers, highlighters and bronzers.”
Which Color Category Is Seeing the Most Growth?
While makeup makes its comeback, WGSN’s Bailey still sees skincare as the official category leader. However, she believes skincare and makeup will continue to blend, with multitasking products that offer both coverage and skincare benefits.
Without hesitation, APC Packaging’s Ponte says, “Lips and Eyes are currently driving the growth.”
In just the past few months, cosmetic launches have been on the rise not only in Eye, but in the Lip and Cheek categories, with color housed in new, sleek and (mostly) sustainable packaging, from paper palettes to refillable lipsticks.
Lip components, refillable compacts, brow and eye pencils, creative ways to incorporate sustainability, are all trending at Roberts Beauty, according to Munoz. With the increasing emphasis on sustainability and environmental awareness in the industry and consumer preferences, she says, “Brands are looking for packaging that is recyclable, mono-material, refillable, post-consumer recycled materials with design that keeps function first, steering away from complex systems and getting back to basics.”
SeaCliff Beauty’s Pare, notes: “Since many countries are still mandating mask regulations we’ve noticed more growth in eye makeup, specifically concealers and eyeshadows. Consumers are eager to start wearing color cosmetics again but with the mask regulations, it is discouraging to wear face and lip products.”
Eyes have been a focus at Cosmopak, where Dwyer says, “We have experienced a great upswing in mascara and eyeliner projects. Our assumption is that Covid has led to a focus on eyes as masks have been less ideal for lip products.”
A Focus on the Eye
“Covid and mask-wearing has led to more of a focus on the brow, and wanting to add brow definition,” says CTK’s vice president of sales, Jackie Paterno. CTK’s most popular package for brow sculpting is their Super Slim Micro Pencil. Super slim for precise application, it glides on effortlessly and in a package that has a spoolie on the opposite end for expert grooming. “In keeping with our corporate sustainability mandate, we also offer a refillable version,” says Paterno.Paterno explains, “The 2010’s were all about the full boy brow, and in the 2020’s we are still focused on brow fullness, but now with more of an emphasis on structure. We now sculpt the brows, fill in the brows and style the brows. The pared back brows are trending. A welcome refresh from too dark, big and bold brows. A well-defined and lifted brow is all the rage in 2022!”
At HCP Packaging, Morgan says color cosmetics for the eyes has really been a big growth category, covering all products from big palettes for creative beauty looks to mascara, eyeliner, brows and highlighters. “Mascara has continued to be the category showing the most innovation in the marketplace; HCP’s Lash Studio teams in North America, Asia and Europe are on hand with collaborative solutions to achieve impressive results and fast-track mascara and brow product launches,” says Morgan.
SeaCliff Packaging recently launched their newest innovation in refillable cosmetics. “This patented refillable mascara designed for Soshe Beauty is the perfect sustainable solution for an everyday beauty must-have,” says Pare. It is made with all PP+ ABS, and consumers can easily remove the inner tube to replace with a new refill.
Roberts Beauty recently produced Stila Stay All Day Dual-Ended Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner, a versatile eyeliner that offers two application tips/styles in one convenient package. As the eyes became the focus over the last year, Munoz says this innovative eyeliner offered extra options to the consumer without adding additional packaging or products, and won Allure’s Best of Beauty Award for 2021.
Gimme Some Lip
“Eyes took a leading role throughout the pandemic, but lips will see their comeback this year in a big way,” says WWP Beauty’s Dias. “The return of wearing lipstick represents the optimism and will be a form of self-expression and individualism.”WWP Beauty recently launched four collections of stock packaging for lips, that give brands more options including bold, classic, slim and mini designs.
Lip is also a growing category at HCP Packaging, where Morgan says, “The trend for refillable sticks is gaining momentum—for lipsticks and lip care, and also as a fast and easy application format for complexion products. HCP’s ‘Devotion Lipstick’ is a classic full-size pack that combines a high-performance mechanism with a sustainably-minded, refillable design.
For “brand loyalty,” says Morgan, the Devotion Lipstick has a special “click & use” feature for the refillable mechanism that only twists up after assembly with the base (patent pending). The PET fashion parts can be easily separated for recycling or provided as R-PET. For brands investing in custom pack designs, this mechanism can also be used with specially designed fashion parts to create “a completely new, eye-catching launch.”
At Roberts Beauty, Munoz says they are seeing a trend with brands moving away from bold lip colors to more natural hydrating lip products or treatments.
Vergnion says that Covid -19 had a strong impact on the global lip market and as a result, some brands experienced delays in their launches. However, she says Axilone’s planning and production team managed to adapt to this new and challenging environment. “Fortunately, very early after the initial impact of Covid 19, Axilone saw a significant rebound, specifically in the high-end lipstick category in the Asian market.” And despite a drop in sales, she says their customers continued to pursue new developments of high-end products, in both lip and closure categories, as “they were confident that the global market would rebound.”
Axilone’s most recent achievement is the development of a 100% aluminum packaging line including premium lipstick cases and luxury compacts. The company recently custom-developed a compact for Hersee Beauty, a Chinese beauty brand, and says it is the first full aluminum compact in the market, with an aluminum mirror, and a double-anodized top plate.
Bite Beauty selected one of Axilone’s full aluminum standard lipstick packs for the launch of Agave Lip Butter balm, which was customized with a specific embossed logo.
Another achievement at Axilone is the development of a lipstick cartridge with a lock & key system, “for which some features are patented, which provides the brand with added security so that no other cartridges can be inserted in their luxury lip packaging.”
Qosmedix recently expanded their extensive stock packaging collection with new options for a variety of popular makeup products. The elegant containers are ideal for lipsticks, concealers, highlighters and other solid formulations. The first addition is a slim 0.07 oz. black tube with a slanted applicator tip and matching cap. Simply twist the dial at the bottom to advance the formula upward. Two new 1.5 gram, 2-in mini lipstick tubes are also available. Choose from a black tube with either a solid black cap or a clear cap. These tubes feature a UV coating to help protect against scratches and everyday use. Customize the pack out, colors, finish or add your brand’s logo for a minimum of 20,000 pieces.
Looking Ahead
As noted in this article—and in conversations with other industry experts—most expect continued growth in the Color Cosmetics category.Will this truly be a year of “refillables acceptance” as many interviewees in this article predict?
Will Clean Beauty dominate and drive development and sales?
Elle Morris, senior global strategy consultant, Marks, notes: “2022 will be about less show, more glow. Cosmetics are taking a more reductive, clean turn—both in sustainable ingredients and in terms of more skincare-oriented formulations.”
According to research from Mintel, “By 2022, pent-up demand and a return to pre-pandemic routines will help speed market recovery, especially in face and lip segments. After an initial post-pandemic sales surge, recovery will continue at a slow and steady pace. Still, retail sales are not expected to reach pre-pandemic levels until 2026.”
Stay tuned to Beauty Packaging! We’ll keep you posted!
Beautycounter says two of its latest products take a giant step toward its goal of 100% Recycled, Recyclable, Refillable, Reusable or Compostable Packaging by 2025. The mirrored compact for Cheeky Clean Cream Blush is refillable with any shade and an estimated 100% of the plastic is also composed of PCR resin. Purchasing a refill reduces the estimated energy use. For the brand’s Think Big All-In-One Mascara, 31% of the plastic in the package is composed of PCR resin.
A long string of adjectives defines many consumer and brand must-haves when it comes to creating or purchasing Color Cosmetics. The range includes: memorable, efficient, sustainable, clean, easily removable, recyclable, refillable, double-duty, subtle and bold—not to mention missions of CSR, diversity, inclusion and philanthropy.
Dewy Cheek & Lip Palette from Danessa Myricks Beauty has just launched, with the goal of ‘reimagining beauty with multipurpose products for all.’
The founder/CEO, makeup artist, photographer and educator, says, ‘This skin-loving, ultra-luxe, cheek and lip palette is filled with 4 multi-use cream shades ideal for all skin tones. Our moisturizing yet lightweight formula easily melts into skin to create varying intensities of radiant-rich color. This easy-to-use texture is perfect for beginners and pros alike.’
The brand’s first refillable component will be available shortly.
Makeup artist extraordinaire Dame Pat McGrath joined with Shondaland and Netflix to create the first-ever beauty collaboration inspired ‘by the romance and searing passion’ in the hit series Bridgerton. “In celebration of the series and the mutual admiration between Pat McGrath and Shonda Rhimes,” McGrath created “a modern, royal cosmetics collection that flatters every skin tone.”
The new MTHRSHP Eye Palette, Divine Blush + Glow Trio and Highlighters are contained in “covetable, collectable packaging.”
The collection reportedly sold out in days after its December 2021 launch.
Seven7een received a packaging award in the latest Pentawards competition for its whimsical packaging that features bold, impactful designs that will stand out on both digital and physical shelves.
With inclusion a growing trend across the board in the beauty industry, Mintel research shows that 14% of women who use makeup express interest in products that are easier for people with mobility challenges to apply, and that “there are opportunities to stand out in the crowded beauty space and help make beauty routines easier for individuals with mobility challenges/visual impairments by offering packaging with their needs in mind.” (Mintel cites Kohl Kreatives as an inclusive beauty brand that specializes in tools that support motor disabilities, transgender and cancer care communities.)
The desire for convenience extends into the removal process, according to Mintel, whose data shows that “Easy to remove” is the top-cited product attribute consumers seek when choosing cosmetic products. The report states: “It’s common to see claims surrounding “wear” (e.g, long wear, waterproof, etc.), but ease of removal should also be highlighted as it makes the product experience more convenient. Although ‘easy to remove’ claims have widespread appeal, it’s still crucial that products do not smudge, flake or transfer.”
Jazmine Lip Lock Satin Lipstick, packaged in SeaCliff Beauty’s unique airtight BeautiLock system, used a custom pink color with pearlized effect and matte rose gold bullet shell. Proceeds from Jazmine Beauty go towards diabetes research and support groups at UCI Health. Additionally, the brand is building a community for those who have been diagnosed with the disease.
Caliray is Wende Zomnir’s (founder of UD, now part of L’Oreal) new “clean” beauty, skincare, and wellness brand with Jenna Dover, developed with sustainability in mind. The Surf Proof Easy Glider Eyeliner is touted as “the first clean stay-in-place pencil in a sugarcane plastic barrel for perfect lines and waterproof wear.” Products, which are formulated according to the latest Clean at Sephora standards, include a prepaid mailing label to send empties to a recycling facility geared toward small parts.
Using their proprietary algorithm, Trendalytics identified trends that are based on global consumer search data from December 2021.
(“Emerging” Trendalytics trends are those exhibiting emerging behavior and are likely to grow in the next few months. “Safe Bets” have been growing for a year and will continue to grow for another year.)
#CleanLook
With over 53M views on TikTok, the newest beauty trend to take over the app is all about enhancing your natural beauty.
- Illuminating Foundation, +31% to last year
- Light Brown Eyeliner, +19% to last year
- Ice Globes, +48% to last year
- Dewy Blush, +23% to last year (Emerging)
- Liquid Blush, +517% to last year (Safe Bet)
’90s Reboot
On the heels of the ’90s fashion revival, retro makeup products are also regaining mass popularity.
- Frosted Lipstick, +598% to last year (Safe Bet)
- Brown Lip Gloss, +5% to last year
- Lip Pencil, -10% to last year
- Light Blue Eyeshadow, +71% to last year (Emerging)
- Skinny Brows, +334% to last year (Emerging)
- Bubble Braids, +517% to last year (Safe Bet)
- Shimmer Lip Gloss, +1,194% to last year (Safe Bet)
Maximalist Touch
Gen Z is rediscovering the creative potential of makeup with pops of color and experimental elements.
- Colored Lash Extensions, +47% to last year
- Glitter Lips, +96% to last year
- Face Gems, +55% to last year (Emerging)
- Glitter Lipstick, +38% to last year (Emerging)
- Colored Lashes, +172% to last year (Emerging)
- Tinsel Hair, +282% to last year (Emerging)
- Glitter Hair, +55% to last year (Emerging)
