Jamie Matusow, Editor-in-Chief05.05.23
Situated in Northern Italy between sophisticated Milan and Florence, Bologna is a centuries-old charming European city known for its delectable pasta, produce, charcuterie, wines and gelato; its extensive network of historical porticoes; and as the home of the oldest university in the world. Of course, in the Beauty world, it’s regarded as the destination for what Cosmoprof Worldwide organizers tout as the leading B2B event for the cosmetics industry.
This spring, during the five days (March 16-20) of the event held at the sprawling fairgrounds near the city’s perimeter, participants from around the globe were able to savor all that Bologna offers.
After battling the effects of pandemic shutdowns and stalled travel for several years, the 54th edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna reported 250,000 attendees from 153 countries. Show organizers also said there was a rise in the number of visitors from North America, Europe, the Middle East, Asia and Oceania.
Suppliers from China and Taiwan returned this year, and as usual, there were many regional companies present, as Italian cosmetics manufacturing is driven largely by exports.
Gianpiero Calzolari, president of BolognaFiere, commented, “Cosmoprof is once again the reference showcase for the industry in the world. The results of this edition represented the health of the industry.” Calzolari added, “The presence of key players from the main markets, of more than 2,984 exhibitors (+11% compared to 2022), from 64 countries and of 29 country pavilions is the result of the efforts to strengthen the international profile and prestige of the event, thanks to the collaboration with Cosmetica Italia—Personal Care Association and the support of the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation and ITA—Italian Trade Agency.”
Matteo Zoppas, president of ITA—Italian Trade Agency, said this year’s event “was a synergistic team effort, aimed at affirming the image of Italy, home of the culture of beauty and theatre of an industrial system of absolute excellence.” Zoppas says that throughout 2023, ITA is on track to continue its initiatives to facilitate further commercial hubs for Italian exports in France, Spain, the UK and Morocco.
Beauty Packaging’s Jamie Matusow and Jay Gorga.
During the days that Beauty Packaging’s publisher, Jay Gorga, and I spent speaking to cosmetic packaging suppliers on the massive show floors of Pavilions 15, 18, 19 and 20, we relished the in-person opportunity to connect with so many solutions providers and brands from around the world—and gained so much more perspective in the process (not to mention about 12,000 steps a day!).
Needless to say, there was a strong emphasis on sustainable packaging and clean beauty. To emphasize the “natural environment,” theme, many aisles were lined with huge displays and walls of fresh flowers and greenery throughout the pavilions. Discussions about the most promising sustainability solutions—refillables, less plastic, mono-materials, biodegradables, paper, etc.—raged on. The necessity to educate consumers and the need for lifecycle assessment prior to specifying packaging were also hot topics.
The Cosmoprof show floor was bedecked in greenery.
Another thing that stood out to us: Many suppliers had gone “full tilt” for the show, with extra-large spaces, double-decker booths and eye-popping graphics. Sustainable packaging makeovers and a strong cosmetics market are bringing many opportunities despite short-range challenges.
Since so many suppliers now offer a full array of packaging solutions, as well as formulations and turnkey services, the following look at stands we visited appears in alphabetical order:
Baralan’s Maria Jar.
In Hall 18, primary packaging solutions provider Baralan, experts in glass, showed an array of new products focusing on clean beauty and sustainability, vibrant nail color and precise application for skincare.
Baralan also premiered several ranges of glass bottles. For instance, the new Lilibet Series, features a modern design that blends a circular shape with a square profile. The primary packaging supplier also introduced a line of square-shaped glass jars in its popular Raquel Line. The design of the jars allows for the possibility of having a cylindrical cap, or a cap with the same shape as the jar. New standard products include refillable packaging concepts, such as the 30- and 50ml inner cups for Baralan’s Maria Jar series.
Geka’s PCR fiber for mascara brushes.
GEKA says they were pioneers in post-consumer recycled fibers for mascara and eyebrow brushes, and now offer a wide range of sustainable brushes, as well as turnkey products. At Cosmopack Bologna 2023, the medmix Beauty segment of GEKA brought their latest sustainable cosmetic innovation to market—what they say is the first ever post-consumer recycled (PCR) fiber filaments for mascara and eyebrow brushes.
As a complement to the brand’s biobased range of fiber filaments for brushes, GEKA is the first to make a PCR variant commercially available for this application, according to Stefanie Gunz, head of global marketing for GEKA. Brushes in the new range feature 65% recycled polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)—increasing their sustainability. All products in the range are vegan friendly and can be used for eyelash and eyebrow treatments. This brush range includes the conical-shaped ecoLASH twisted wire brush; the similarly constructed greenLOVER with SEPA chisel-shaped fibers which boost separation; the curvy and concave ecoWONDER offering increased eyelash curvature and lengthening; and the natureLASH, which has a pointed tip for easy retouching and lash definition. New shadow printing technology provides an extra textural touch.
HCP’s Ringo Refill Jar.
Among its large collection of packaging solutions, HCP Packaging revealed several standout innovations in sustainable packaging and deco.
Cheryl Bisset, senior vice president of sales at HCP Packaging USA, pointed to two new sustainable packaging innovations that tout a reduced carbon footprint. The 50ml “Ringo” is an “ergonomic, cost-effective and refillable” jar with a unique and easy-to-use rechargeable inner pod. The “Dial Compact” combines a mono-material construction with a patented refill feature, which HCP describes as “robust, secure and ready to recycle.”
According to Bissett, HCP’s refillable, recyclable and fully sustainable 'Dial Pressed Powder Compact' offers “a planet-friendly solution without compromise for consumers who expect high-quality aesthetics and functionality. The DialCompact’s ‘twist to refill’ patented gesture is new and unique in the market, says Bisset. Snap-together integral hinges and the ergonomically proven base design holds the pan in place without need for glue. With the two-piece cover option, the mirror is removable and retainable; once removed, the remaining parts can be placed in the domestic recycling stream.
HCT’s sustainable refillable palette system.
One emphasis at HCT was their new refillable palette system, which features various size pan holders for face powder, blush, eyeshadows, etc. in single or multiple pans per holders. The pan holders will be made in various materials like PCR PET, PP, paper, bio-material, aluminum, zamac and wood, all of which will be able to snap into the palettes.
The palettes will be made in various materials, as well as different shapes and sizes. The result is the ability to offer a multitude of combinations for brands. It will also create an exciting way for users to shop and construct their future palettes. HCT says they want to give brands as much flexibility as possible—the ability to choose custom pan sizes, palette sizes, and material options. From a sustainability perspective, the new palette system is specifically designed to meet various sustainability goals; the palettes can be mono-material, plastic-free, and/or recyclable. There are several options for branding and decoration. HCT says this is “a major step toward helping beauty brands become more sustainable, without having to sacrifice brand aesthetic, loyalty and consumer product satisfaction.”
At Cosmopack, one emphasis was on the lip category, as IL Cosmetics Group introduced its latest instant plumping products. The group successfully transposed instant plumping (hot & spicy) from usual lipgloss textures to a semi-matte liquid lipstick format. The Demi-Matt Plumper” delivers “an opaque and intense one-swipe color with a non-dry satin finish.”
To meet demands for the “skinification” trend, which has brands providing skincare benefits in their makeup products, IL presented a complete collection of different “sensorialities” such as their hybrid tinted gloss, flawless powdery matte, lip butter, etc.
Art-worthy, reusable palettes from Libo.
With the idea of retain and re-use in mind, Libo presented a series of art-worthy palettes, with 360-degree, 3D printing, incorporating the striking work of a Taiwanese artist. Meant to look like an Asian room divider screen, they can be collected and displayed together on a vanity table. They are all refillable for long-lasting use and enjoyment.
Art-worthy, reusable palettes from Libo.
Italian manufacturer Lumson, a prominent supplier in primary packaging for the cosmetic industry, stood out on the Cosmopack floor with a large stand filled with a variety of solutions.
The stand included Marino Belotti, which specializes in compact cases—and which joined the Lumson Group in 2019. A large area of the stand focused on dispensing systems, including the premium sector of airless systems with pouches all made by Lumson. Collections for makeup were also prominent.
As with many suppliers, Matteo Moretti, president of the Lumson Group, said, “Our strategy is increasingly more focused on sustainability, with systems aimed at protecting the environment and simplifying the recycling process once a product is finished: from airless and mono-material solutions to refillable ones.”
A featured product at Lumson was TAG, “the first glass airless to be launched on the market by the Italian company,” and, Moretti says, “over 10 years later, it remains ‘The Original’ thanks to the technology that was used to make it. Another Lumson innovation at Cosmopack was Infinity—a capsule collection, currently comprised of two glass bottles with a thick, tapered base soon to be enhanced with a 15ml glass bottle and 50ml refillable glass jar. They’re available in 30- and 50ml, and are ideal for skincare and makeup products. A mono-material cosmetic dropper was another item introduced. According to Lumson, it is 100% sustainable because the collar and pipette are made of PP while the bulb is made of polyolefin, a particular elastomer compatible with PP recycling methods. All of the components can be disposed of into the same recycling chain, resulting in packaging that is completely sustainable and perfect to pair with Lumson’s PCR glass bottles.
Nest Filler’s galvanic sprayer.
At Nest Filler Packaging, Mickey Moon showed us one of their latest innovations—a galvanic sprayer. It’s an electronic device bottle that can be filled with a low-viscosity formula to be used as a micro-mist sprayer for the face. Almost like a light steam for the face. Another model cools and massages for increased circulation—"like a fine fog”—and is refillable.
NF Beauty Group’s Ambit Tottle is ideal for gondolas.
NF Beauty Group’s popular Ambit Tottle, the supplier’s own private tool, was a big success at Cosmoprof Bologna, as it has been at other shows—and also with various clients.
This flexible tottle in a unique “racetrack” elliptic profile means that it can maintain portability and space efficiency on gondolas, store shelves or vanities. The disc-cap design also means that Ambit is easy to use with a one-touch click, making it easy to dispense and use. In addition, NFBG’s “Innovations 2023” showcases new concepts and technologies; these are
presented exclusively in-person, by appointment.
Olive’s PCR-PET packaging looks like glass.
Olive Packaging, known for their glass lookalike packaging had increased the look with ultra-thick and heavy PCR-PET. They explained that this reduces the weight to one-third of glass. Also of interest was a “super fine” mist sprayer that can be activated 360 degrees upside-down.
A look at Pennellifaro’s many brushes.
Sustainable thinking was top of mind at Italian-based brush manufacturer Pennellifaro, where 3D printed brushes were a highlight. Sara Zanafredi, CEO and owner, emphasized that this technology allows you to “build your brush in various ways—you can do anything you want, and the brushes can be made without a mold.” This can be done at their facility—and without transport. SoloXchange mono-material brushes are “100% recycled and infinitely recyclable,” and allow you to change heads, but use just one handle for all.
Exquisite metal decorating at Tapematic.
At Tapematic, Antonio Scotto, VP sales, showed us a new IDM module they had created, which enables the laser or hot stamping decorating to be done before the top coating. The automated process can create deco, QR codes, etc., all in-line. And not only does the top coating protect the decoration, it eliminates any contamination during the process and can all be done in one
location.
The next Cosmoprof Bologna show will take place March 21-25, 2024.
This spring, during the five days (March 16-20) of the event held at the sprawling fairgrounds near the city’s perimeter, participants from around the globe were able to savor all that Bologna offers.
After battling the effects of pandemic shutdowns and stalled travel for several years, the 54th edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna reported 250,000 attendees from 153 countries. Show organizers also said there was a rise in the number of visitors from North America, Europe, the Middle East, Asia and Oceania.
Suppliers from China and Taiwan returned this year, and as usual, there were many regional companies present, as Italian cosmetics manufacturing is driven largely by exports.
Gianpiero Calzolari, president of BolognaFiere, commented, “Cosmoprof is once again the reference showcase for the industry in the world. The results of this edition represented the health of the industry.” Calzolari added, “The presence of key players from the main markets, of more than 2,984 exhibitors (+11% compared to 2022), from 64 countries and of 29 country pavilions is the result of the efforts to strengthen the international profile and prestige of the event, thanks to the collaboration with Cosmetica Italia—Personal Care Association and the support of the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation and ITA—Italian Trade Agency.”
Matteo Zoppas, president of ITA—Italian Trade Agency, said this year’s event “was a synergistic team effort, aimed at affirming the image of Italy, home of the culture of beauty and theatre of an industrial system of absolute excellence.” Zoppas says that throughout 2023, ITA is on track to continue its initiatives to facilitate further commercial hubs for Italian exports in France, Spain, the UK and Morocco.
Beauty Packaging’s Jamie Matusow and Jay Gorga.
During the days that Beauty Packaging’s publisher, Jay Gorga, and I spent speaking to cosmetic packaging suppliers on the massive show floors of Pavilions 15, 18, 19 and 20, we relished the in-person opportunity to connect with so many solutions providers and brands from around the world—and gained so much more perspective in the process (not to mention about 12,000 steps a day!).
Needless to say, there was a strong emphasis on sustainable packaging and clean beauty. To emphasize the “natural environment,” theme, many aisles were lined with huge displays and walls of fresh flowers and greenery throughout the pavilions. Discussions about the most promising sustainability solutions—refillables, less plastic, mono-materials, biodegradables, paper, etc.—raged on. The necessity to educate consumers and the need for lifecycle assessment prior to specifying packaging were also hot topics.
The Cosmoprof show floor was bedecked in greenery.
Another thing that stood out to us: Many suppliers had gone “full tilt” for the show, with extra-large spaces, double-decker booths and eye-popping graphics. Sustainable packaging makeovers and a strong cosmetics market are bringing many opportunities despite short-range challenges.
Since so many suppliers now offer a full array of packaging solutions, as well as formulations and turnkey services, the following look at stands we visited appears in alphabetical order:
Suppliers
Baralan
Baralan’s Maria Jar.
In Hall 18, primary packaging solutions provider Baralan, experts in glass, showed an array of new products focusing on clean beauty and sustainability, vibrant nail color and precise application for skincare.
Baralan also premiered several ranges of glass bottles. For instance, the new Lilibet Series, features a modern design that blends a circular shape with a square profile. The primary packaging supplier also introduced a line of square-shaped glass jars in its popular Raquel Line. The design of the jars allows for the possibility of having a cylindrical cap, or a cap with the same shape as the jar. New standard products include refillable packaging concepts, such as the 30- and 50ml inner cups for Baralan’s Maria Jar series.
Coven Egidio
At Italian manufacturer Coven Egidio, known for its fragrance filling and crimping machinery, Paolo Pagetti showed us the latest introduction—a pump cutting machine. The pump cutter uses a conveyor, which automatically cuts, thanks to an optical laser. It can be adjusted to any length.Epopack
Epopack was exhibiting lots of sustainable packaging solutions. One focus was on PET airless options, using heavy-wall PET bottles with mix-and-match pumps—all easy to disassemble.GEKA
Geka’s PCR fiber for mascara brushes.
GEKA says they were pioneers in post-consumer recycled fibers for mascara and eyebrow brushes, and now offer a wide range of sustainable brushes, as well as turnkey products. At Cosmopack Bologna 2023, the medmix Beauty segment of GEKA brought their latest sustainable cosmetic innovation to market—what they say is the first ever post-consumer recycled (PCR) fiber filaments for mascara and eyebrow brushes.
As a complement to the brand’s biobased range of fiber filaments for brushes, GEKA is the first to make a PCR variant commercially available for this application, according to Stefanie Gunz, head of global marketing for GEKA. Brushes in the new range feature 65% recycled polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)—increasing their sustainability. All products in the range are vegan friendly and can be used for eyelash and eyebrow treatments. This brush range includes the conical-shaped ecoLASH twisted wire brush; the similarly constructed greenLOVER with SEPA chisel-shaped fibers which boost separation; the curvy and concave ecoWONDER offering increased eyelash curvature and lengthening; and the natureLASH, which has a pointed tip for easy retouching and lash definition. New shadow printing technology provides an extra textural touch.
HCP Packaging
HCP’s Ringo Refill Jar.
Among its large collection of packaging solutions, HCP Packaging revealed several standout innovations in sustainable packaging and deco.
Cheryl Bisset, senior vice president of sales at HCP Packaging USA, pointed to two new sustainable packaging innovations that tout a reduced carbon footprint. The 50ml “Ringo” is an “ergonomic, cost-effective and refillable” jar with a unique and easy-to-use rechargeable inner pod. The “Dial Compact” combines a mono-material construction with a patented refill feature, which HCP describes as “robust, secure and ready to recycle.”
According to Bissett, HCP’s refillable, recyclable and fully sustainable 'Dial Pressed Powder Compact' offers “a planet-friendly solution without compromise for consumers who expect high-quality aesthetics and functionality. The DialCompact’s ‘twist to refill’ patented gesture is new and unique in the market, says Bisset. Snap-together integral hinges and the ergonomically proven base design holds the pan in place without need for glue. With the two-piece cover option, the mirror is removable and retainable; once removed, the remaining parts can be placed in the domestic recycling stream.
HCT
HCT’s sustainable refillable palette system.
One emphasis at HCT was their new refillable palette system, which features various size pan holders for face powder, blush, eyeshadows, etc. in single or multiple pans per holders. The pan holders will be made in various materials like PCR PET, PP, paper, bio-material, aluminum, zamac and wood, all of which will be able to snap into the palettes.
The palettes will be made in various materials, as well as different shapes and sizes. The result is the ability to offer a multitude of combinations for brands. It will also create an exciting way for users to shop and construct their future palettes. HCT says they want to give brands as much flexibility as possible—the ability to choose custom pan sizes, palette sizes, and material options. From a sustainability perspective, the new palette system is specifically designed to meet various sustainability goals; the palettes can be mono-material, plastic-free, and/or recyclable. There are several options for branding and decoration. HCT says this is “a major step toward helping beauty brands become more sustainable, without having to sacrifice brand aesthetic, loyalty and consumer product satisfaction.”
IL Cosmetics Group
IL Cosmetics Group, headquartered in Luxembourg, is a global cosmetic manufacturer with an extensive multi-product portfolio in the nails, eyes and lips categories. They claim reliability and transparency, guarantee performance and offer high industrial capacity, three industrial sites in Europe, a production site with all their laboratories in Luxembourg and two filling units in Poland and now Bulgaria (opening summer ’23). Their specialty is turnkey solutions (almost 80% of turnover), and they also sell bulk to certain markets.At Cosmopack, one emphasis was on the lip category, as IL Cosmetics Group introduced its latest instant plumping products. The group successfully transposed instant plumping (hot & spicy) from usual lipgloss textures to a semi-matte liquid lipstick format. The Demi-Matt Plumper” delivers “an opaque and intense one-swipe color with a non-dry satin finish.”
To meet demands for the “skinification” trend, which has brands providing skincare benefits in their makeup products, IL presented a complete collection of different “sensorialities” such as their hybrid tinted gloss, flawless powdery matte, lip butter, etc.
Libo
Art-worthy, reusable palettes from Libo.
With the idea of retain and re-use in mind, Libo presented a series of art-worthy palettes, with 360-degree, 3D printing, incorporating the striking work of a Taiwanese artist. Meant to look like an Asian room divider screen, they can be collected and displayed together on a vanity table. They are all refillable for long-lasting use and enjoyment.
LiquiGlide
At 10-year-old LiquiGlide, based in Cambridge, MA, CEO Dan Rippy said the company is aiming to “build a frictionless future” with the “first and only viable technology that allows viscous liquids to slide effortlessly.” This enables consumers to get every last drop out of a tube or tottle. The company is currently using the technology for toothpaste tubes, but it can be used for other personal care, from gels to moisturizers, as well as in bio-medical applications. Rippy said LiquiGlide “opens up a new window for thicker viscosities.”Lumson
Art-worthy, reusable palettes from Libo.
Italian manufacturer Lumson, a prominent supplier in primary packaging for the cosmetic industry, stood out on the Cosmopack floor with a large stand filled with a variety of solutions.
The stand included Marino Belotti, which specializes in compact cases—and which joined the Lumson Group in 2019. A large area of the stand focused on dispensing systems, including the premium sector of airless systems with pouches all made by Lumson. Collections for makeup were also prominent.
As with many suppliers, Matteo Moretti, president of the Lumson Group, said, “Our strategy is increasingly more focused on sustainability, with systems aimed at protecting the environment and simplifying the recycling process once a product is finished: from airless and mono-material solutions to refillable ones.”
A featured product at Lumson was TAG, “the first glass airless to be launched on the market by the Italian company,” and, Moretti says, “over 10 years later, it remains ‘The Original’ thanks to the technology that was used to make it. Another Lumson innovation at Cosmopack was Infinity—a capsule collection, currently comprised of two glass bottles with a thick, tapered base soon to be enhanced with a 15ml glass bottle and 50ml refillable glass jar. They’re available in 30- and 50ml, and are ideal for skincare and makeup products. A mono-material cosmetic dropper was another item introduced. According to Lumson, it is 100% sustainable because the collar and pipette are made of PP while the bulb is made of polyolefin, a particular elastomer compatible with PP recycling methods. All of the components can be disposed of into the same recycling chain, resulting in packaging that is completely sustainable and perfect to pair with Lumson’s PCR glass bottles.
MYC Packaging
Innovation, sustainability, R&D, plastics and aluminum factories, and a global presence were all part of the conversation at MYC, where the emphasis was on a “low-impact future.” Sonia Cerato, global marketing director told Beauty Packaging that their aluminum line—their core material—with both manufacturing and finishing, is celebrating its 10th year. As part of the celebration, they have launched a collection of new lids to join their aluminum jars, mascara, etc.Nest Filler Packaging
Nest Filler’s galvanic sprayer.
At Nest Filler Packaging, Mickey Moon showed us one of their latest innovations—a galvanic sprayer. It’s an electronic device bottle that can be filled with a low-viscosity formula to be used as a micro-mist sprayer for the face. Almost like a light steam for the face. Another model cools and massages for increased circulation—"like a fine fog”—and is refillable.
NF Beauty Group
NF Beauty Group’s Ambit Tottle is ideal for gondolas.
NF Beauty Group’s popular Ambit Tottle, the supplier’s own private tool, was a big success at Cosmoprof Bologna, as it has been at other shows—and also with various clients.
This flexible tottle in a unique “racetrack” elliptic profile means that it can maintain portability and space efficiency on gondolas, store shelves or vanities. The disc-cap design also means that Ambit is easy to use with a one-touch click, making it easy to dispense and use. In addition, NFBG’s “Innovations 2023” showcases new concepts and technologies; these are
presented exclusively in-person, by appointment.
Olive Packaging
Olive’s PCR-PET packaging looks like glass.
Olive Packaging, known for their glass lookalike packaging had increased the look with ultra-thick and heavy PCR-PET. They explained that this reduces the weight to one-third of glass. Also of interest was a “super fine” mist sprayer that can be activated 360 degrees upside-down.
Pennellifaro
A look at Pennellifaro’s many brushes.
Sustainable thinking was top of mind at Italian-based brush manufacturer Pennellifaro, where 3D printed brushes were a highlight. Sara Zanafredi, CEO and owner, emphasized that this technology allows you to “build your brush in various ways—you can do anything you want, and the brushes can be made without a mold.” This can be done at their facility—and without transport. SoloXchange mono-material brushes are “100% recycled and infinitely recyclable,” and allow you to change heads, but use just one handle for all.
Roberts
At Roberts Beauty, a first-time U.S. exhibitor at Cosmopack Bologna, Steve Corsi, head of packaging development, showed us their precision tip dosing, available in multiple sizes, and referring to it as “re-inventing the needle nose.” No pump is necessary, just squeeze. A patented propel-repel design for a stick has an anti-block stop, and is available as a complete PPC mono-material.Tapematic
Exquisite metal decorating at Tapematic.
At Tapematic, Antonio Scotto, VP sales, showed us a new IDM module they had created, which enables the laser or hot stamping decorating to be done before the top coating. The automated process can create deco, QR codes, etc., all in-line. And not only does the top coating protect the decoration, it eliminates any contamination during the process and can all be done in one
location.
Zhejiang B.I. Industrial Co., Ltd
Zhejiang B.I. Industrial Co., Ltd., which specializes in fragrance and cosmetic packaging, and has a new largely expanded facility in China, showed us a wide array of new caps—including “a wide selection—thousands” of Surlyn caps. They offer customers around the world “hand-tailored” customized solutions.See You Soon
The next Cosmoprof will be held in Las Vegas on July 11-13, marking the 20th anniversary of the U.S. B2B show.
