Experts commented on the importance of formula compatibility, eco-friendly materials, and ergonomic designs.
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“The relationship between the applicator or brush and a formula is synergistic,” says Maud Lelièvre, Marketing & Communication Manager at Cosmogen. “The applicator optimizes the formula’s performance and ensures maximum efficacy,” she explains.
Mateia Crippa, Category Specialist at Quadpack, agrees that a brush affects product performance, greatly—especially for makeup. She says, “The applicator is key to a product’s success and can ensure a product lives up to its claims. Its flexibility or rigidity will define its level of precision and control, while its softness level delivers that coveted sensory experience.”
Using an applicator requires a specific gesture, which is determined by the applicator’s design. “Changing the applicator changes the gesture, which will deliver a completely different user experience—and influence how the consumer feels about the product,” explains Aline Roland, Marketing Director, Cosmetics & Fragrance at Albéa. “Makeup products that are easy to use and offer a quick application method are most interesting to brands right now,” she says.
Pennelli Faro aims to help brands give makeup fans a completely new gesture with its flexible brush, Segno. Designed by makeup artist Diego Dalla Palma, Segno is worn like jewelry and won an IT Award at MakeUp in NewYork. It features a flexible silicone cord that wraps around the wrist or neck, and is compatible with different brush heads.
“Whether separate or integrated into a pack, applicators and brushes play a pivotal role in the user experience,” says Sara Zanafredi, CEO of Pennelli Faro. “They influence not only the application process, but also the user’s perceived efficacy of the formula. A smooth and seamless application enhances the perceived value of the product,” she says.
Adrian Hook, vice president of sales at Brivaplast, notes, “The same formula applied with different applicators will change the final result, and will alter the user’s perception of the product.” Hook stresses the importance of ergonomic design. “An applicator’s wand or handle should feel comfortable for users to hold, and its shape should follow the contours of the face to make applying makeup easier,” he says. “It should pick up and deposit exactly the right amount of product, with precision.”
The team at Texen Beauty Partners simplified eye makeup application with one brush that takes the place of five. The new Multi Intensity Brush Eyes, an IT Award winner, makes it easy to apply eye makeup using different techniques. The user turns a rotary mechanism in the ferrule to alter the density and length of the bristles on one end. Dense tapered bristles on the other end are perfect for applying eyeliner.
Nathasha Marquez, marketing manager at Texen Beauty Partners, says, “It’s a space-saving design that covers all the key steps in an eye makeup routine.” Texen offers this brush in 100% PBT, including both the handle and bristles. Its prior design, the Multi Intensity Brush, enables users to apply a full face of makeup with one brush.
Danessa Myricks Beauty is a brand that launched a face makeup in a compact, with a small scoop attached to its lid—making it easy for users to have the applicator close at hand. Yummy Skin Blurring Balm Powder is an innovative soft formula that feels like a balm, but sets like a powder. Powered by the Swedish ingredient Upsalite, the skincare-makeup hybrid absorbs oil and moisturizes for a matte, shine-free blurring effect.
Saie, which started a human rights campaign, is eliminating the guesswork for its consumers by selling bundle sets—products paired with a brush to ensure users get the best results. Saie’s Flushed from Within Duo includes its liquid-cream blush paired with The Fluffy Brush. The Fluffy Brush is ideal for blending after applying the blush with its wand applicator.
Saie’s new Concealer Brush Duo includes Slip Tint Radiant All-Over Concealer in a bottle with a slanted-tip wand applicator. It’s paired with The Double Brush, which has soft vegan bristles on both ends to blend the concealer. The larger end is for sculpting the high points of the face, while the smaller end highlights and conceals the eye area with precision.
Makeup by Mario launched its new E6 Dual-Ended Eyeshadow Brush, and the brand says it’s ideal for applying, shading, and blending all types of eyeshadow formulas. Narrow bristles in a pointed shape on one side allows users to shade and line with precision, while the short, dense bristles on the other are a rounded shape for detailed all-over shading.
A Product’s Formula Comes First, Suppliers Say
Developing beauty applicators and brushes is not without its challenges, but suppliers say the most successful brand collaborations begin with the product’s formula first. “We pay close attention to trends in makeup, skincare, and beyond, such as fashion, to anticipate the types of brushes and applicators beauty brands will need,” says Cindy Chang, SVP of Strategic Innovation and Development at Anisa. “And we’re continually developing innovative applicator solutions,” she says.Every decision regarding an applicator should be based on the formula, experts say. “Consider the formula’s viscosity or texture, and also where the product will be applied on the body,” says Verena Fiori Ferreira, Global Marketing & Communications director at Virospack.
A makeup brush’s fiber density affects its performance, and determines formula compatibility. There are brushes designed for all types of makeup products, from pressed and loose powder products to cream blush and liquid foundation.
The team at Garrett Hewitt International often works with brands that already have a formula and need to develop a brush. “They will describe how they want the formula to be applied and will tell us the brushes they have already tried. We discuss what they liked or disliked about the application, and work with our engineers to create a brush that achieves their application requirements specific to their formulation,” says the company’s president, Jason Clerke.
Garrett Hewitt worked with Morphe to develop its Vegan Pro Brushes using its EVO-Fibers. The company’s EVO-Fibers are made from PBT (polybutylene terephthalate) and are 100% vegan. Garrett Hewitt specializes in synthetic fibers that mimic the properties of animal hair. “We are the only factory with our own PBT brush fiber manufacturing facility within our brush factory,” says Clerke. “We can develop highly customized fibers in any combination for a brush that will work perfectly with any formula,” he says. “We can control the diameter, softness, straight or waved effects, texture, and the shape of the fiber’s tip—and even the smallest design tweaks will affect how the brush performs,” he says.
Steven Ostrower, president of The Penthouse Group, says the best applicators will enhance the consumer experience—exponentially. “We strive to combine design and function to deliver innovative applicators that will create an exhilarating experience for the consumer,” he says.
When a brand gets the application method wrong, it can be a costly mistake. “When the user has a negative experience applying a product, it will overshadow the benefits of the formula and can jeopardize brand loyalty,” says Pennelli Faro’s Zanafredi.
Pennelli Faro offers a wide range of brushes, including styles made using its patented technology that eliminates the need for glues or alternative materials to construct the tuft. “Our team is continually developing new types of applicators and brushes that ensure compatibility with a diverse range of formulas to optimize the user experience,” says Zanafredi. The company announced the launch of a new business unit, Integrated Applicators, which will focus on designs that combine applicators as part of a pack.
Texen says it advises its brand partners on how to avoid mistakes with thorough compatibility testing before a launch. “We’ve worked with several brands that were looking for new packaging solutions because they had an amazing formula, but the wrong application method was delivering a bad user experience,” says Marquez.
Albéa offers brands its Albéa Tips Studio service to help test compatibility and make packaging decisions. “During the development process, beauty brands take into account an applicator’s shape, material, and formula viscosity,” says Roland. Albéa’s eco-friendly designs include its Gen Z brush, which has bio-based filaments made from castor oil, and its Focus Brush with cotton filaments.
Anisa International’s Liquid Touch brush collection is generating a lot of interest from beauty brands. Ideal for both makeup and skincare, the brushes are designed to apply any liquid or cream product, seamlessly. “The collection is inspired by the delicate and precise control of fingertip application,” says Chang. “It’s our exclusive design, and we patented both the fiber and the shape of the brush,” she says.
The brushes combine a unique head shape with Anisa’s patented TRX fiber technology, which allows for intuitive, effortless product placement. “The dramatic 40-degree laser-cut ferrule gives the fiber stability, so the user has maximum control,” Chang says. Eco-conscious materials such as FSC wood and PCR are options for the handle.
Kabuki brushes are typically short, soft and dense—and ideal for applying a wide range of products, flawlessly. They pair well with powder products, foundation, blush, bronzer, highlighter and more. Cosmogen offers an eco-friendly 100% RPET brush collection, and it’s available in a kabuki style. Cosmogen can create textured handles or specific tuft shapes to customize a brush design for a brand. “It’s quite a change in mentality to imagine a single-material brush, without glue and without a ferrule,” says Lelièvre. “RPET fibers have advanced and now work well in professional brushes,” she adds.
Rollerballs, Droppers, & Massaging Tips for Self-Care Rituals
Unlike makeup applicators designed to deliver a specific look, skincare applicators focus more on the process than the end result. There are gua sha facial massage tools that turn skincare into a self-care ritual. Silicone applicators make applying a face mask easy and mess-free. Skincare serums pair well with a rollerball applicator or dropper pack.Roll-on applicators and massage tools can help increase the absorption of creams or lotions with active ingredients. Virospack launched its new Roll-on Vials range, in glass, ideal for liquid-based products such as perfumes, essential oils, aromatherapy blends, serums, and lip gloss. The roll-on ball is in PP, but Virospack offers a steel ball option, which delivers a cooling sensation. “It will soothe and refresh the eye area,” says Ferreira. “When used on the wrist, elbow, and neck, a rollerball applicator can help improve circulation while evenly spreading a product. The massaging motion is a value-added feature that can elevate the consumer’s perception of the product, while ensuring an enjoyable experience,” she says.
Virospack also debuted a plant-based dropper cap innovation in partnership with Rezemo. It uses a new alternative plastic material, Forewood.
Cosmogen recently launched a line of applicators and accessories in stainless steel. “Our ‘eternal’ line includes a new stainless steel version of our patented Fresh Flex Roller Massager. Keep it in the refrigerator so it feels cool on the skin,” Lelièvre suggests. “It has an intuitive design that provides sensations of well-being, and it is designed to last,” she says.
The applicator has a rollerball tip attached to a long rod, which offers a controlled flexibility. “The user can easily apply products with care to the sensitive skin around the eyes with a gentle massaging motion. And it’s more hygienic than touching your face with your fingers,” Lelièvre says.
The Penthouse Group offers user-friendly tubes with intuitive built-in applicators. The company also produces eco-friendly applicators in PCR, bio-based plastics, and Ocean-Bound plastics. “Our development team often collaborates with our R&D staff in our production facilities in the Far East to create new patented designs. Our newest offerings include comb applicator heads for hair products, cool-to-the-touch metal massagers, silicone tips, flocked applicator heads, and makeup brush heads,” says Ostrower.
Applicators for Lip Color & Concealer
Lip color and concealer are often packaged in bottles with applicators that have specific design features, such as formula reservoirs, multiple surface areas, textures, and special shapes. Liquid lipstick, lip oil, and lip gloss are all rising in popularity. “Hybrid lip color formulations are trending, with active ingredients that are hydrating or nourishing,” says Quadpack’s Crippa. “The best types of applicators for these products are soft, flexible, jumbo-sized applicators with reservoirs.”Quadpack has three new patented applicator designs, Quadzone, Crush, and Centered. Quadzone has a rigid precision tip for dosage control, and is ideal for high-pigment lip color or concealer. “Quadzone applies the smoothest layer of color with equal product distribution due to the tip’s four load zones, and allows for easy blending,” says Crippa.
Quadpack’s Crush, ideal for lip gloss, is a wide, flexible applicator for quick, effortless application. Its spoon shape and double-sided reservoir pick up a large amount of product. “It can apply a heavy coat of color, but its flexibility maintains balance and pressure control,’ says Crippa.
Quadpack’s Centered features a pillow-soft surface for skincare or makeup application. “It has a central reservoir designed for easy loading and excellent formula release. Its soft surface enables easy access to the inner and outer lip contours,” says Crippa.
Texen’s eco-friendly range of Downy applicators paired with square bottles are made without flocking or glue, which means one less step on the assembly line. “The applicators are made using injected micro-pimples for a soft and pleasant application experience,” says Marquez.
Optimizing Mascara Application
Mascara packaging is highly specialized, and the brush is it’s “star.” The brush, when lifted out of a bottle or tube, passes through a wiper. The wiper is engineered to control the amount of “bulk” the brush picks up, which affects the look the mascara will create on the lashes. Ensuring a mascara delivers on its claims requires pairing the right wiper, stem and brush with a formula.When one part of a mascara pack is changed, the product will perform differently. Texen’s Marquez says choosing the correct type of wiper is especially critical. “With the wrong wiper, the most amazing brush will lose its magic. Making sure the applicator, wiper, and formula are an ideal combination is non-negotiable for mascara.” Texen’s mascara applicators include its “No Boundaries” from its Edge collection.
Albéa’s Roland says that even the best mascara formulas won’t live up to expectations if they are in the wrong package, which is why the supplier offers a wide range of customizable options. Albéa’s TIO pack is one of its best-sellers. It includes a bottle with one brush and two application systems, with two stems and two wipers in different diameters.
“Choose which stem to use, opening the upper cap or the full cap,” says Roland. “The upper cap transfers less formula to the brush for more defined lashes. Or, open the cap fully to apply more product for a volumizing effect,” she explains. Brush options include fiber bristles or Albéa’s bio-based “Green Leaf” brush.
Albéa also offers two slim mascara brush designs—the Panther and Lynx. “These are designed with a slim stem for a bottle or tube with a small diameter neck,” says Roland. Albea also offers the Alpha brush in its “Big&Bold” collection, which includes brushes and stems with larger diameters.
Brivaplast says its team is always inspired by new mascara formulas when it develops new brush designs. “A high level of technical know-how is necessary to develop high-performance applicators for mascara. One of our flagship patents is a bi-material wiper model with variable diameters to adapt to different stems and brushes,” says Brivaplast’s Hook.
Brivaplast’s “Kernel Hourglass” brush is an elastomer with soft, symmetrical, kernel-shaped bristles. “It evenly distributes the bulk, coating the lashes from the bottom to the tips. Smaller bristles at the top deliver extra definition, while the concave part in the middle acts as a reservoir and is ideal for densely loading the lashes,” Hook says.
Brivaplast’s “Precious Woman” is a fiber mascara brush with a soft curve profile that follows the eye’s natural shape. “The brush’s rigid fibers separate each lash for a defined look. Buildable volume is also achievable,” Hook says. “The shorter fibers accelerate loading the product onto the lashes, while the longer fibers at the top and bottom comb the lashes.”
Upcoming Innovations: What Can We Expect Next for Applicators & Brushes?
What new designs will we see for applicators and brushes? “We are working on developing new ways to improve the application of tubing formulas for mascara,” says Albea’s Roland.The team at Quadpack says unconventional materials, such as ceramic, will fuel more imaginative applicator designs. ‘We expect to see new shapes inspired by art and nature, including abstract and floral designs—to add creativity to product application,” says Crippa.
Pennelli Faro’s Zanafredi, says she can’t reveal specifics, but says cutting-edge applicator solutions are continuously in development as new materials will drive innovation and raise the bar on sustainability. Zanafredi adds, “We envision brushes and applicators evolving to become even more advanced with new features destined to further elevate product application.”
We’ll stay tuned.