Jamie Matusow, Editor-in-Chief06.10.24
On the train headed to Bologna, two Gen-Z women (I’m guessing) who sat facing me, had barely settled in their seats, when they reached into their carry-ons and pulled out their travel makeup cases—large hard-sided totes with handles, multi-level compartments and a mirror in the inner top.
For the entire ride, they drew out item after item, experimenting with color on themselves and each other, applying numerous products with brushes, sponges and fingers. They discussed various blending and highlighting techniques they had viewed on social media, as well as what salespeople had demonstrated in-store. Each of the women carefully applied at least a dozen products—and both ended up with flawless, but natural-looking faces, by the time they were ready to de-board.
As I was on my way to attend Cosmoprof Bologna, this unexpected demo was an especially fascinating glimpse at beauty consumers, and how engaged and determined they can be, to not only achieve a certain look—but also armed with the skills, products and tools to accomplish their goals with such confidence, and have so much fun in the process.
See also: Cosmoprof & Cosmopack Shows Premiere in Miami
At the massive event held annually at the Bologna fairgrounds, enthusiasm was also strong among brands, exhibitors and other cosmetic industry aficionados, including suppliers, manufacturers, brand owners and teams, buyers, distributors and retailers.
Offering a glimpse of potential business about to take place, Gianpiero Calzolari, President of BolognaFiere, shared:
“The cosmetics industry is experiencing an exciting moment globally: According to McKinsey & Company’s beauty report for 2023-2027, the sector reached a turnover of 427 billion dollars in 2023, and it is forecasted to reach 580 billion dollars by 2027, with an annual growth rate of 6%.”
According to Cosmoprof Bologna organizers, more than 3,000 companies from 67 countries were present at the sold-out expo (+4% compared to 2023).
As always, as we sleuthed the exhibit floor—primarily Cosmopack—we viewed a variety of packages (new materials, airless, recycle-ready, glass, sizing, etc.), and were drawn into conversations about the direction of the industry in general.
As expected, there was an overall notable emphasis on sustainability (particularly the merger of style and sustainability)—but some exhibitors told us that brand interest in some sustainable packaging options is now lagging.
I was surprised to hear from some suppliers that while eco-friendly is still a No. 1 priority for a majority of brands, a small number are choosing to wait for more guidance before making the necessary investments and packaging changes. Seemingly, there remains uncertainty about efforts to effectively “green” packaging. While refillables are gaining in popularity, there remain many hurdles to wide acceptance, including retailing, inventory, and consumer loyalty. Recyclables continue to gain speed, although the questions surrounding recycling facilities remain.
Despite these difficulties, brands are requesting these alternatives, and suppliers have been prolific in developing amazing advances in sustainable packaging, including alternative and mono-materials, glass, refills, airless, paper and more. Lots of packaging was shown in bright and Spring-y, pastel colors, many with eye-catching shapes and eco-friendly designs.
An increase in suppliers offering low minimums and rapid or turnkey production showed a willingness to attract small brands.
Similar to my observation of the two women on the train, many cosmetic suppliers at Cosmoprof Bologna were spotlighting the growing trend in which people wear more makeup—while intending to achieve a minimal “clean girl” look.
Overall, there was a sense of attracting consumers via cosmetics that offer a sense of joy and self-content, as well as flawless finished results—to not just meet standards, but to create your own.
AI was a growing presence, from providing striking booth graphics, to package design and color-matching cosmetics. Formulas were increasingly created for multitasking/hybrid uses.
Following is a rundown of some of the exhibitors and highlights we spotted on the show floor at Cosmoprof & Cosmopack in Bologna, 2024.
The Flawless Kiss lip applicator from the Velvet&Gold collection, has a wedge shape. Unusually long and thin, it ensures a large application surface and oversized coating. The flat and unconventional shape narrows toward the tip of the applicator, for a sensorial and controlled application.
The new PCR PP is suitable for components in contact with formulations, such as bottles and rods. Geka says the material behaves identically to virgin material, so there’s no need for manufacturers to adjust tooling or processing equipment. Additionally, it is available at “a comparable price level.” The supplier emphasized that the new material, developed with Geka’s long-standing partner WIS-Kunststoffe, makes it “a zero-investment solution that allows brands to take an overnight step toward sustainability.”
The keywords that inspired Gotha Cosmetics’ “Emotional Fulfillment” trend are: Beauty as an Emotion, Feel the Product, Expanded Imagination, Aesthetic Pleasure, Reshape and Expand Knowledge, Beauty Therapy, Cognitive Age, Psychology of Aesthetics, Sensing, Connecting Consumer.”
Catino said that by 2026, “Consumers will be emerging from a period of flux and returning to some stability with new ideas and priorities. Beauty standards will be questioned and dismantled, ushering in alternative aesthetics as the new norm, prioritizing emotional fulfillment over what is conventionally socially acceptable.”
Highlights at Gotha included Bubble Gum Bronzer, The Executive Lipstick and B-Lush-ious: Melting Heart Blush.
One standout this year at Cosmoprof Bologna was their Industrial Luxe Lipsticks, a selection of lipsticks that highlights “the versatility & understated luxury of aluminum.”
Inspired by premium hardware and industrial craftsmanship, and top-plate technologies,” Cheryl Morgan, Creative Marketing Manager, HCP, said the ‘Industrial Luxe Collection’ showcases innovative ‘forever finishes’ on sustainable aluminum lipsticks, including fluted details, diamond drilling and brushed effects for a textured, tactile result that’s made to last.”
Encased in opulent tones of silver, rose-gold and gun-metal grey, these cool-touch lipsticks display lasered, pressed and drizzled surface treatments, alongside shiny, matte or satin anodized finishes. Proving style and sustainability can co-exist, HCP says this collection shines a spotlight on fast-to-market stock packaging that offers both sustainable credentials and an on-trend contemporary, luxury aesthetic.
Also on display at HCP was the Twist Tottle, which enables one-handed dispensing and application of liquid cosmetics and skincare products. It can be made from PCR or other materials to achieve the level of flexibility appropriate to the formula’s viscosity. The two-part cap can be reused on a refill bottle.
With the addition of Leoplast, Lumson can run every phase of lipstick manufacturing, from the initial design to the final production.
The Cosmos collection is embellished with shades of color reminiscent of the Milky Way: from deep glittery hues similar to those of the midnight sky to cosmic sand that comes alive in both color and to the touch. Other lipsticks are characterized by silver finishes that evoke lunar rocks and extremely bright, fluorescent colors reminiscent of a supernova explosion.
Lumson’s portfolio includes many notable “green” solutions that focus on circularity and follow the pillars of sustainability, including eco-conscious solutions made with recyclable and/or recycled materials (100% PP, 95% PCR PP, PCR ABS), and mono-material solutions.
Many lines can be customized to individual needs according to the latest trends. The lipstick machine with SEA Vision’s innovative a-eye lipstick system boasts a 360° lipstick inspection system (which recently won the Cosmoprof Asia Awards). According to Marchesini, it is the world’s first system for automatic quality control of lipsticks in production, based on AI technology, automating the process of qualitative inspection previously largely entrusted to manual human control.”
These applicators, he said, are engineered to seamlessly integrate into packaging, and can be custom-made to either be directly assembled into the packaging casing or mounted with a connector onto bottles, tubes or other packaging items.
Inspired by Korean beauty trends for soft, blurry blends with no harsh lines, the product delivers a blotted, natural matte finish and bouncy feel reminiscent of the Asian fluffy-textured Mochi dessert.
Damien Dossin, General Manager, Sunglow Group USA, said the factory includes an R&D center, a 2,000 sqm lab, a 100000-level GMP purification workshop and 27 fully automated production lines. They have 6 skincare production lines, 18 cosmetics production lines and 3 disinfection and sterilization product lines. Dossin says their specialty is providing one-stop solutions for skincare, makeup removers and foundation—and a full range of makeup products for customer design. They also do fragrance.
He was sorely missed at this 55th edition of Cosmoprof, but his sons paid tribute to his via large-scale booth images of the three of them at a previous exhibition—and a portrait of Marco, who was a well-recognized figure in the worldwide fragrance industry community.
Marco’s body of work, his crimping jaws and his filling machines are used daily in most labs and perfume-filling companies worldwide. The work done over the last 30 years with his sons Luca and Paolo will continue with the same quality and true “Made in Italy” designation in the years to come.
For the entire ride, they drew out item after item, experimenting with color on themselves and each other, applying numerous products with brushes, sponges and fingers. They discussed various blending and highlighting techniques they had viewed on social media, as well as what salespeople had demonstrated in-store. Each of the women carefully applied at least a dozen products—and both ended up with flawless, but natural-looking faces, by the time they were ready to de-board.
As I was on my way to attend Cosmoprof Bologna, this unexpected demo was an especially fascinating glimpse at beauty consumers, and how engaged and determined they can be, to not only achieve a certain look—but also armed with the skills, products and tools to accomplish their goals with such confidence, and have so much fun in the process.
See also: Cosmoprof & Cosmopack Shows Premiere in Miami
At the massive event held annually at the Bologna fairgrounds, enthusiasm was also strong among brands, exhibitors and other cosmetic industry aficionados, including suppliers, manufacturers, brand owners and teams, buyers, distributors and retailers.
Offering a glimpse of potential business about to take place, Gianpiero Calzolari, President of BolognaFiere, shared:
“The cosmetics industry is experiencing an exciting moment globally: According to McKinsey & Company’s beauty report for 2023-2027, the sector reached a turnover of 427 billion dollars in 2023, and it is forecasted to reach 580 billion dollars by 2027, with an annual growth rate of 6%.”
Talk on the Show Floor
It was a revealing insider look at the industry as Jay Gorga and I surveyed the various expansive halls, visited impressive-looking stands and engaged with beauty executives about their latest innovations and the trends they’re experiencing in the industry.According to Cosmoprof Bologna organizers, more than 3,000 companies from 67 countries were present at the sold-out expo (+4% compared to 2023).
As always, as we sleuthed the exhibit floor—primarily Cosmopack—we viewed a variety of packages (new materials, airless, recycle-ready, glass, sizing, etc.), and were drawn into conversations about the direction of the industry in general.
As expected, there was an overall notable emphasis on sustainability (particularly the merger of style and sustainability)—but some exhibitors told us that brand interest in some sustainable packaging options is now lagging.
I was surprised to hear from some suppliers that while eco-friendly is still a No. 1 priority for a majority of brands, a small number are choosing to wait for more guidance before making the necessary investments and packaging changes. Seemingly, there remains uncertainty about efforts to effectively “green” packaging. While refillables are gaining in popularity, there remain many hurdles to wide acceptance, including retailing, inventory, and consumer loyalty. Recyclables continue to gain speed, although the questions surrounding recycling facilities remain.
Despite these difficulties, brands are requesting these alternatives, and suppliers have been prolific in developing amazing advances in sustainable packaging, including alternative and mono-materials, glass, refills, airless, paper and more. Lots of packaging was shown in bright and Spring-y, pastel colors, many with eye-catching shapes and eco-friendly designs.
An increase in suppliers offering low minimums and rapid or turnkey production showed a willingness to attract small brands.
Similar to my observation of the two women on the train, many cosmetic suppliers at Cosmoprof Bologna were spotlighting the growing trend in which people wear more makeup—while intending to achieve a minimal “clean girl” look.
Overall, there was a sense of attracting consumers via cosmetics that offer a sense of joy and self-content, as well as flawless finished results—to not just meet standards, but to create your own.
AI was a growing presence, from providing striking booth graphics, to package design and color-matching cosmetics. Formulas were increasingly created for multitasking/hybrid uses.
Exhibitor Highlights at Cosmoprof Bologna
Following is a rundown of some of the exhibitors and highlights we spotted on the show floor at Cosmoprof & Cosmopack in Bologna, 2024.
Companies are arranged in alphabetical order.
Allta
At Allta, David Berkman showed us several new novelties including a light-up compact, textured formulations, and a palette that replicated a chocolate sampler box.Asquan
One of the features at Asquan’s stand was a newly developed refillable airless bottle, which locks the pump on top, and the consumer pulls the refill out of the bottom. There was also a refillable jar. But Asquan Founder & President, Henri Tinchant told Beauty Packaging, “Refills can end up being less sustainable unless you have an expensive cosmetic product and the packaging is more of a beauty accessory. The company has eliminated styrene per Sephora directives.Baralan
Baralan offered 3D decoration for glass in all sizes, for eye-catching, tactile personalization.Brivaplast
Brivaplast’s new Velvet&Gold collection aimed to revive the beauty of 1920s makeup—colors and textures that can be on trend in matte, deep and pigmented visual makeup, that could also be at home on a B/W screen. The collection includes both skincare and makeup products; face serum, lip oil, brow liner, volume and curling mascara, blush, foundation and lipstick. Matte and metallized satin varnish are used as a finish and an Art Déco design is applied in shiny hot stamping.The Flawless Kiss lip applicator from the Velvet&Gold collection, has a wedge shape. Unusually long and thin, it ensures a large application surface and oversized coating. The flat and unconventional shape narrows toward the tip of the applicator, for a sensorial and controlled application.
Coverpla
Coverpla now offers wooden caps in addition to zamac and metal styles for its wide range of fragrance and skincare packaging. Venus is a new glass bottle, with a rounded shape, and is available in various sizes. A square cap in PP will soon be offered in any color.Derik
At Derik, Rick Persons, president of Derik USA, explained how the company has converted many packaging items into PET [can also be PCR) “because everyone wants this.” Of interest were four square compacts without magnets, but a hinge configuration designed to click closed—like a luxe compact. It’s also available in clear, but is not recyclable in this choice. A large variety of multiple well configurations, including an attractive rectangle, was also available. Regarding customers’ sustainable packaging requests, Persons told Beauty Packaging, “In Europe, brands really care about recyclable PCR; in the U.S., it’s about a 50/50 split.”iTiT Cosmetics
Debra Lowe, of iTiT Cosmetics, spoke to us inside the Italian supplier’s large impactful-looking booth, with enormous colored balls bobbing along the top. She said that client attendees were showing great interest in complexion and lip, in addition to turnkey products. Encapsulation was a popular option for skincare, for benefits such as “high-hydration” formulas, that work while you’re wearing it. Smooth Operator is a dual-purpose lip and eye “perfector,” which Lowe said, “creates a canvas so you firm and then apply color.” These are functional complexes that work to treat while applying color.FR&Partners
FR&Partners focused on their problem-solving creative skills, with a special series of 4 cosmetic implements they designed to counter mobility issues—”to think differently and to see what’s possible,” explained Marie Julie Bruneau, Sales Customer Representative. FR& Partners won the 2024 Cosmopack Awards in the category of Packaging: Design & Material. Different solutions from simple shape jars to soft touch and a silicon base that keeps a jar from sliding and a gadget that looks like a ring and holds a mascara add up to thinking outside the box.Geka
Geka, medmix’s beauty brand, launched what it said is the “first-ever formulation-compliant recycled (PCR) polypropylene material suitable for primary cosmetics packaging.” According to the supplier, the new material provides “unprecedented color brilliance, guarantees no loss of visual effects and saves 75% CO2-emissions compared to virgin materials.”The new PCR PP is suitable for components in contact with formulations, such as bottles and rods. Geka says the material behaves identically to virgin material, so there’s no need for manufacturers to adjust tooling or processing equipment. Additionally, it is available at “a comparable price level.” The supplier emphasized that the new material, developed with Geka’s long-standing partner WIS-Kunststoffe, makes it “a zero-investment solution that allows brands to take an overnight step toward sustainability.”
Gotha Cosmetics
Emotional fulfillment was a theme at Gotha Cosmetics, where Betti Ann Catino, Executive Sales Director, USA, showed us some of the new trends they were featuring. Catino explained that consumers have “a desire to do things differently,” leading to “a more radical form of makeup.”The keywords that inspired Gotha Cosmetics’ “Emotional Fulfillment” trend are: Beauty as an Emotion, Feel the Product, Expanded Imagination, Aesthetic Pleasure, Reshape and Expand Knowledge, Beauty Therapy, Cognitive Age, Psychology of Aesthetics, Sensing, Connecting Consumer.”
Catino said that by 2026, “Consumers will be emerging from a period of flux and returning to some stability with new ideas and priorities. Beauty standards will be questioned and dismantled, ushering in alternative aesthetics as the new norm, prioritizing emotional fulfillment over what is conventionally socially acceptable.”
Highlights at Gotha included Bubble Gum Bronzer, The Executive Lipstick and B-Lush-ious: Melting Heart Blush.
HCP
As always, HCP Packaging displayed a wide variety of options from lipsticks to compacts to mascara—many featuring the stunning graphics and top-plate technologies they are known for.One standout this year at Cosmoprof Bologna was their Industrial Luxe Lipsticks, a selection of lipsticks that highlights “the versatility & understated luxury of aluminum.”
Inspired by premium hardware and industrial craftsmanship, and top-plate technologies,” Cheryl Morgan, Creative Marketing Manager, HCP, said the ‘Industrial Luxe Collection’ showcases innovative ‘forever finishes’ on sustainable aluminum lipsticks, including fluted details, diamond drilling and brushed effects for a textured, tactile result that’s made to last.”
Encased in opulent tones of silver, rose-gold and gun-metal grey, these cool-touch lipsticks display lasered, pressed and drizzled surface treatments, alongside shiny, matte or satin anodized finishes. Proving style and sustainability can co-exist, HCP says this collection shines a spotlight on fast-to-market stock packaging that offers both sustainable credentials and an on-trend contemporary, luxury aesthetic.
Also on display at HCP was the Twist Tottle, which enables one-handed dispensing and application of liquid cosmetics and skincare products. It can be made from PCR or other materials to achieve the level of flexibility appropriate to the formula’s viscosity. The two-part cap can be reused on a refill bottle.
HCT
HCT’s new Speed Line program promotes recyclable packaging with fast lead times and low MOQs. The stock is production-ready at HCT’s facility to accommodate 2,500 – 25,000 pieces in just 2-3 weeks with your custom decoration. This program is a solution for brands to launch quickly with sustainable packaging, thus the specific components for this program are 100% mono-material PET, which are designed for recycling. To maintain the component’s recyclability, this program allows limited decoration processes like silkscreen, hot stamping, inkjet printing, and HCT’s Inboss Technology. The supplier says the process is easy and quick.Lena
Lena is a public company in Shanghai, that provides global and domestic high-end brands with paper boxes for primary and secondary packaging. Beauty accounts for about 60% of their business. One specialty is cold foil, which can be printed on to make it more colorful. They also showed a jar made from coffee ground waste.Lumson
“Into the Cosmos” was one of the latest 100% made-in-Italy, flagship launches shown at Lumson’s bright, airy stand. The Italy-based primary cosmetic packaging manufacturer, which acquired Leoplast in 2017, boasts two sites entirely dedicated to the development of lipstick packaging, and a production capacity of 50 million pieces per year.With the addition of Leoplast, Lumson can run every phase of lipstick manufacturing, from the initial design to the final production.
The Cosmos collection is embellished with shades of color reminiscent of the Milky Way: from deep glittery hues similar to those of the midnight sky to cosmic sand that comes alive in both color and to the touch. Other lipsticks are characterized by silver finishes that evoke lunar rocks and extremely bright, fluorescent colors reminiscent of a supernova explosion.
Lumson’s portfolio includes many notable “green” solutions that focus on circularity and follow the pillars of sustainability, including eco-conscious solutions made with recyclable and/or recycled materials (100% PP, 95% PCR PP, PCR ABS), and mono-material solutions.
Marchesini
Cosmopack 2024 was a special edition for the Marchesini Group, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. With an eye to the future, “leading-edge innovation and technology” were the underlying themes of Marchesini Group Beauty’s emphasis at the show, where visitors were able to take a close look at state-of-the-art machines and lines for packaging cosmetic products.Many lines can be customized to individual needs according to the latest trends. The lipstick machine with SEA Vision’s innovative a-eye lipstick system boasts a 360° lipstick inspection system (which recently won the Cosmoprof Asia Awards). According to Marchesini, it is the world’s first system for automatic quality control of lipsticks in production, based on AI technology, automating the process of qualitative inspection previously largely entrusted to manual human control.”
Miron Violetglass
Miron Violetglass highlighted various sizes and shapes of their cobalt blue glass, which protects the product inside from sunlight, helping to preserve it.MYC
MYC, which operates a large facility in China for aluminum, introduced aluminum fragrance caps, as well as lids for compacts and jars. Sonia Cerato, Global Marketing Director, said that they have unique capacities for embossing designs. Special coatings that change in UV light or heat (i.e, touch of a hand) are available.Ocean Waste Plastic
Ocean Waste Plastic reclaims plastics from oceans and rivers near Jakarta, and produces packaging from the raw materials it collects and sorts. Custom-made designs are available in an array of pastel colors.Packtory
One of the highlights at Packtory was their metal-free pump, available with a bottle or jar. Steve Kim, CEO, explained that the 100% PP jar and cap do not have a gasket inside. It’s also refillable.Pennelli Faro
At Cosmopack Bologna, Pennelli Faro, known for its cosmetic applicators, announced the launch of a new business unit dedicated to the production of technical applicators for the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. These applicators are designed “to seamlessly integrate with packaging, offering enhanced functionality and performance for both the application process and the formulated product.” Gianluca Serposi, CEO and Technical Director of Pennelli Faro, said, with the new unit, “We can now offer even more advanced and customized solutions to meet the needs of brands, formulators, and packaging manufacturers.”These applicators, he said, are engineered to seamlessly integrate into packaging, and can be custom-made to either be directly assembled into the packaging casing or mounted with a connector onto bottles, tubes or other packaging items.
Schwan Cosmetics
Schwan Cosmetics’ latest product launch, was front and center at Cosmoprof. Blotted Mochi Bounce Color is “a liquid transformative multitasker” for lips, eyes, or cheeks. The German color cosmetics manufacturer explained that the new product addresses “the increasing demand for multi-purpose cosmetics and supports the mind-body beauty trend by creating a multi-sensorial experience with innovative textures and easy, pleasurable application.”Inspired by Korean beauty trends for soft, blurry blends with no harsh lines, the product delivers a blotted, natural matte finish and bouncy feel reminiscent of the Asian fluffy-textured Mochi dessert.
Sunglow Technology
Sunglow Technology, based in Shanghai, is a leading industry provider of high-end brand packaging/solutions “serving many of the world’s top 500 customers and high-end brands,” in multiple categories including Beauty.Damien Dossin, General Manager, Sunglow Group USA, said the factory includes an R&D center, a 2,000 sqm lab, a 100000-level GMP purification workshop and 27 fully automated production lines. They have 6 skincare production lines, 18 cosmetics production lines and 3 disinfection and sterilization product lines. Dossin says their specialty is providing one-stop solutions for skincare, makeup removers and foundation—and a full range of makeup products for customer design. They also do fragrance.
Takemoto
Takemoto’s stand featured an entire wall of sustainable wood, paper, glass, aluminum, biodegradable and Limex packaging possibilities. Also available: recycled PET and biomass PET.Tubex
At Tubex, Group CEO Thierry Bitout, and Group Marketing & CSR Manager, Silke Schedenig, spoke about the firm’s 100% aluminum recyclable tubes, noting that they are the “largest seller of tubes in North America.” The 70-year-old Vienna-headquartered manufacturer is currently expanding their refillable mono-tube PCR solutions with small- and middle-size brands in the U.S.Zignago Vetro
At Italian glassmaker Zignago Vetro, Marta Vanzetto, Marketing & Communication Officer told Beauty Packaging that the company is focused on innovation. They featured a large display of beautiful, iconic mini sampler, “baby factice” bottles designed exactly like their full-size “parents.” Vanzetto explained that the sampling niche is growing for travel and purse—and they are well-equipped to meet the need. Zignago had added more candles and air fresheners to their stock. They also offer glass stoppers, and Vanzetto said Zignago is one of the few glass suppliers offering semi-automatic glass. When I asked Vanzetto about brands’ interest in the sustainability aspects of glass, she told me, “Sustainability is not as much of a trend as it was…”Remembering the Founder of Coven Egidio
In Memorian at Cosmoprof: Mr. Marco Pagetti (1950-2023), founder of Coven Egidio—and beloved father of Luca and Paolo Pagetti, who run the fragrange crimping & filling company—died in late December 2023.He was sorely missed at this 55th edition of Cosmoprof, but his sons paid tribute to his via large-scale booth images of the three of them at a previous exhibition—and a portrait of Marco, who was a well-recognized figure in the worldwide fragrance industry community.
Marco’s body of work, his crimping jaws and his filling machines are used daily in most labs and perfume-filling companies worldwide. The work done over the last 30 years with his sons Luca and Paolo will continue with the same quality and true “Made in Italy” designation in the years to come.
