Following a nearly two-year hiatus brought on by Covid-19, MakeUp in NewYork re-emerged with vitality and optimism at Javits Convention Center in Manhattan for two days, September 22-23.

Signs of the times: Visitors and exhibitors had to show proof of vaccination; masks were mandatory; and the French show directors were absent due to international travel bans.
 
Still, the event’s organizers reported more than 1,700 attendees, eager for in-person connections, networking and surveying the offerings of 30 beauty industry suppliers and full-service manufacturers representing the makeup and skin care categories. All were enthusiastic to get things rolling again.

A number of exhibitors Beauty Packaging spoke with said that activity was even better than they had anticipated, not crowded but steady, with brand meetings and packaging inquiries and interest. While exhibitors were from U.S. offices, an array of international products was also offered, either through stock from global headquarters or via MakeUp in NewYork’s Innovation Awards, which were on display.
 
Amid supply chain challenges, brands and manufacturers are champing at the bit to resume activity. And with so much confusion and uncertainty about what to choose sustainability-wise, many suppliers are going the way of refillables. And as ever, for the most part, brands are relying on suppliers to advise them and partner along the way, from concept to delivery.

Many suppliers say development is “all about giving the brands a good story to tell; and giving marketing more options.” Others report that the pandemic has led to a rise in turnkey production.

No Makeup-Makeup Is In!

Clean Beauty, Clean Packaging continues as one of the major trends in the cosmetics industry, and was evidenced across the show floor.
 
The FusionPKG BeautyLab team was featuring its turnkey “The Drip” Collection—clean formulations crafted in an in-house laboratory. Described as “edgy but natural,” products are housed in “award-winning packaging, with sustainable options—for a true one-stop experience, according to Sarah Heath, vice president of marketing.
 
Another bonus: According to Heath, The Drip’s clean formulas and packaging ensures that a brand's next launch will meet the needs of any major retailer, including Clean by Sephora, Credo, Target and others.
 
The Drip comprises 3 collections: Glam-boyant for luxe textures and finishes; The Noughties,  for a playful pop of color and a flashback to the early 2000s; and Glazed, a lineup of matte foundations, setting powders and more—combining makeup with skin care.

Refillable and Mono-Material Compacts and Lipstick

Derik Industrial offers many refillable packaging options that are in tune with today’s sustainable packaging needs. At the show, they introduced a new mono-material lipstick and compact. Options include rectangular palettes with multiple refillable pan wells, round compacts, single pan replacement wells, and a family of refillable compacts for a complete line of sizes. A one-piece compact has no pins and can be made in PCR; the mirror is removable. A multi-pan compact relies on a magnet for refills. In addition, the supplier's patent pending lubricant-free refillable lipstick was a new option.
 
APR Packaging is a full turnkey manufacturer, that was presenting a wide array of sustainable options. Michael Cafiero, VP of sales, told Beauty Packaging, “There has been a push on refillables.” To meet this need,  the supplier offers a whole slate of refillables—in airless, jars, direct applicators—“all good for D2C.” a 100% bamboo refillable deodorant stick is also 100% recyclable. Formulations are made in Toronto; packaging in China. Printing and hot stamping are done in Canada and the U.S.
 
Lumson also said there’s been a lot of demand for refillables for both jars and lipsticks. Mono-materials from Lumson have also attracted increased interest.

Airless in Aluminum

In addition, Lumson showcased TAL, its first airless system in an aluminum container, which “combines technological innovation with functionality.” According to Emanuele Mazzei, CEO, Lumson USA, TAL guarantees the maximum protection of the formula due to proprietary pouch technology. In addition, easy separation of the components allows for a responsible recycling process. TAL is highly customizable, with different decorations for “endless” finishes. It is available in multiple sizes—50-, 75-, or 100ml. Digital printing allows for up to six layers of color. “Make Care” was a theme at Lumson, combining makeup and skin care solutions with appropriate packaging. A new collection highlighted glass jars and bottles decorated in dreamy pastels and sorbet-colored shades.

Made in USA Precision Brushes

FM Brush highlighted their wide range of artist, cosmetic and custom-made brushes, all handmade in the USA and “constructed using precise quality standards,” according to Jacqueline Mink Cooper, director of retail sales, FM Brush. She added “From concept and design to production and packaging, FM Brush maintains its attention to detail throughout the entire manufacturing process.”
 
Of particular interest: 2 shapes in 1, double applicators and a patented 3D brush.
 
CPI Group, a 30-year-old company based in China, with U.S. headquarters in NJ, displayed all varieties of patented mascara packaging. Any size, color and brush design are possible.

‘Instantly Instagrammable Formulations’

iLabs, a contract manufacturer, based in New Jersey, presented a wide array of formulations.
Anay Kacharia, chemist, R&D, at iLabs, told Beauty Packaging they take pride in end-to-end development as a one-stop shop for finished goods.

Specialties include products with reef-safe SPFs to makeup removers with gel-like textures. Kacharia said, “We look ahead to what the need will be.” He demonstrated the gel bronzing oil, commenting that it is “instantly Instagrammable.” In another example, he showed us oil oil-based sticks rather than soap-based, which he said activate better delivery. 

Innovation Showcase

Here, too, refillables, sustainability, double-duty, a natural look and cool, uncluttered packaging designs led the trends for products that made it into MakeUp in NewYork’s Innovation Showcase.
 
For the MakeUp in NewYork 2021 innovation awards, 17 exhibitors submitted 47 new products, 18 of which were selected by a jury of 11. As far as category breakdown, winners included 2 accessories, 4 formulations, 6 full service and 6 packaging.
 
Here are a few award recipients that stood out:

• APC’s Refillable Jar is a sustainable packaging solution that’s reusable and recyclable. The consumer can reuse a product's outer jar and cap by replacing and recycling the inner jar. APC also received awards for a mono-material dropper and a 2-in-1 bottle that offers many options for mixed formulas.


• Two separated bottles are combined as one in a  2-in-1 package from Pumtech that offers numerous options for mixed formulas.


• A miniature pencil from ITIT Cosmetics gives an intense and precise line. It combines a sustainable and 100% natural texture with long-lasting properties; the hybrid eyeliner is presented in an saPEFC certified sustainable wood pencil.